It would be a few more years before I met Éric in person, at Les Vignerons Dans la Ville in Chinon in 2024, and a few more still before I finally made it to the domaine itself on a rather dreary February day earlier this year. Some things are worth the wait.

The Domaine

The origins of Domaine Dozon date back to the 1950s, when Jean-Marie Dozon established the domaine with the 14 hectares of vines in the lieu-dit Le Saut au Loup that were purchased by his grandfather in the late 1930s. Jean-Marie worked alongside his father Paul for many decades before handing off the domaine to his daughter Laure Dozon in 1999. After marrying a vigneron from Bourgueil, Laure made the decision to sell the family domaine in 2013 to Chinon-native Éric Santier.

While from Chinon, Éric did not grow up in a family of vignerons, though felt deeply connected to the region’s agricultural heritage. His first career was spent working for SOPEXA as an international marketing manager for agro-food products. Feeling the call to the land, Éric made the decision to change careers in 2010, pursuing a viticulture and oenology degree in Bordeaux, followed by a two-year stint working at Domaine Bernard Baudry in Cravant-les-Côteaux, before becoming propriétaire-vigneron at Domaine Dozon in 2013.

Over the last decade, and with no concrete succession plan in place, Éric had been quietly seeking a partner who could help ensure the longevity of the domaine and bring fresh momentum to what he had built. In late 2025, Éric was introduced to a passionate wine enthusiast who had family roots near Chinon named Thibault Caillemer du Ferrage who was interested in investing in the domaine sharing both Éric's conviction in the potential of the Le Saut au Loup terroir and his vision for its future.

The Vineyards

Domaine Dozon’s Cabernet Franc vines are all planted in a single lieu-dit, Le Saut au Loup - a name that likely referenced a nearby spring (“saut” in old French meant spring) that was a source of drinking water for the wolves (“loup(s)”) and other animal life living in the nearby forests. It is worth noting that this is a highly regarded and historic lieu-dit, first being referenced in the national archives dating to 1643, and the lieu-dit appeared on the first Cassini map of France dating to 1765. From a viticultural perspective, Le Saut au Loup was classified as a “premier cru” site in the Annuaire des Marques et Appellations d’Origine des Vins, Eaux-de-Vie et Spiritueux de France in the 1940s, one of the country’s earliest modern-day reference guides for its vineyards, producers and wines.

Le Saut au Loup is located in the western part of the Ligré commune, following the eastern border of neighbouring La Roche-Clermault, and is a stone’s throw from other notable lieux-dits including Le Vau Breton, Noblaie, and Vindoux. The commune of Ligré sits on the south side, or left bank, of the Vienne River, directly opposite the eastern part of the Chinon commune. Uniquely, Ligré does not border the Vienne directly: the commune of Rivière occupies the riverbank, and Ligré is set further back to the south. As a result, none of the vineyards in Ligré sit on any of the alluvial soils found close to the river.

Subscribe now

Even on the poorest of weather days, it is impossible not to feel a certain energy when standing among the vines in this lieu-dit. Situated on a prime, south to southeast-facing slope, the vineyard is surrounded by forest to the north, east and west, which not only gives an air of mystique and privacy, but it also serves to enhance the natural ecosystem of the vineyard and protects it from the cold northerly winds.

The undulating topography and range of elevations across northern Ligré gives us the complex underlying geology of Le Saut au Loup. Rising in elevation from around 82m above sea level at the bottom of the slope to around 100m at the top of the slope, the vineyard can be divided into roughly three main parts.

At the top of the slope and the plateau sitting just above, there is a mix of deeper soils, lighter textured silty-sands and heavier sandy-clays with flint, with the fruit from these parcels beings used for the cuvées Le Petit Chemin, Le Chemin Travers(e) and Éric’s Chinon Rosé. The heart of the lieu-dit is the 7-hectare “clos,” which is the source of the domaine’s Le Clos du Saut au Loup cuvée. The clos, which was indeed enclosed by walls centuries ago, represents the mid- to upper third of the slope with a sandy-clay topsoil with a high proportion of flint stones and pebbles throughout, which sits atop the Upper Turonian yellow tuffeau chalk bedrock. As you move down the slope, the soil becomes increasingly more influenced by the Upper Turonian yellow tuffeau chalk, with a slightly shallower, heavier clay topsoil, and these parcels are the source of the domaine’s Le Grand Saut cuvée.

Across the lieu-dit, the vines are older and well-established, ranging in age from 35 to 60 years of age. Upon Éric’s arrival in 2013, some of the vineyard parcels were already being farmed organically, so he continued this work beginning organic conversion in earnest in 2020, and as of the 2023 vintage the domaine’s vineyards and wines are certified organic.

The Wines

In the cellar, Éric crafts his reds to reflect the same thoughtful, respectful approach that he takes with his vineyard work. With a little over a decade under his belt at the domaine, he has continuously refined his work in the chai with a sensitivity that respects the potential of the vintage based on what Mother Nature brings to the fold each year. Today, his fermentations are a little cooler (22-25C versus 28C) and his approach to extractions is more gentle, with his current vintages showing beautiful purity and freshness of fruit and a bit more polish.

Éric approaches his work as the custodian of this vineyard in a measured, thoughtful manner and with a deep respect for the terroir entrusted to him. A relative newcomer to the vocation, he farms revered ground with a care and meticulousness that speaks to the weight of that responsibility. That awareness seems to sharpen rather than constrain him, and the wines that result are honest, candid, genuine. They are well-intentioned expressions of the lieu-dit Le Saut au Loup rather than exercises in winemaker ego or mastery.

At the heart of the range sits the cuvée Le Clos du Saut au Loup, the domaine’s flagship, and it is here that Éric’s vision is most fully realized. A wine that is layered and finesse-driven, with depth and real character. Accessible and unpretentious, the range as a whole carries the humble assurance of a vigneron who has learned to trust the site. These are wines that wear their Chinon heritage with pride, befitting the prestige of this “premier cru” lieu-dit.

Le Petit Chemin & Le Chemin Travers(e): Sourced from the top of the slope and plateau, these two cuvées represent the domaine’s vins de soif, or early-drinking expressions. Both are fermented in fibreglass or concrete tank depending on the vintage, vinified at cooler temperatures and have a slightly shorter cuvaison of 8 to 10 days. Le Chemin Travers(e) sees no sulphur during the fermentation and aging, just a low dose at bottling.

Le Clos du Saut au Loup: Representing a little over 50% of the volume of the domaine’s production is the cuvée Le Clos du Saut au Loup, which comes from vines contained within the 7-hectare former walled clos. As the domaine’s most “visible” cuvée in France and export markets, Éric has evolved his approach with this wine over the year’s with the desire to more purely express the terroir of this premier cru-level vineyard. From 2013 to 2018, this cuvée was aged in a combination of concrete tank and foudres, and since 2019 Éric has opted to use exclusively concrete for the aging to highlight the purity of fruit and essence of place.

Le Grand Saut: The top expression from Le Saut au Loup is Le Grand Saut, from more tuffeau-dominated parcels towards the bottom of the slope. Éric’s experience has taught him that this type of soil imparts a natural structure to the finished wine, which can benefit from oak aging to help round out and refine the otherwise firmer, more angular tannins. After a slightly longer time on skins, about 4 weeks, he opts to age the wine in older barrels (3 to 6 years old) that are mostly 225L and 228L barriques, with a few 300L barriques depending on the volume of the vintage.

Other Wines: Éric also makes a Chinon Rosé (“Le Petit Chemin” Chinon Rosé), and for some reason we neglected to taste it while I was at the domaine. I blame the rather dreary, miserably cold, wet day when I visited the domaine in February. It was just not a day to appreciate rosé! I will remedy this on a future visit to the Loire and include notes in a post down the road.

Tasting Notes: Current Vintages

“Le Petit Chemin” 2024 Chinon (12% abv., SRP 12EUR): The nose displays the delicate, perfumed side of the vintage leaning more earthy and herbal as opposed to fruity. Sprightly, small red berries mixing with notes of fresh cedar and thyme with a hint of rose, and green and white peppercorn spice and a touch of graphite through the finish. Juicy, lively with fine, firm tannins that have a delicate chew through the finish. Energetic, peppery, and deliciously charming from start to finish.

“Le Chemin Travers(e)” 2024 Chinon (12% abv., SRP 12.60EUR): The 2024 Le Chemin Travers(e) uses a small portion of whole cluster layered with the destemmed fruit (“mille-feuille” technique). Opening with fresh, exuberant red and blue fruits that have a hint of a candied undertone thanks to a bit of the semi-carbonic nature of the fermentation, which gives the aromatics a youthful vitality. Wispy, soft herbs (basil, tarragon), delicate florals and piquant, chilli flake spice. The palate is soft with a core of juicy, mouthwatering acidity and fine, silky tannins. Supple and round, instantly enjoyable.

“Le Clos du Saut au Loup” 2023 Chinon (12.5% abv., SRP 16.80EUR/$28USD): The nose immediately invites you into the glass with a depth and concentrated fruit character of black raspberry, blackcurrant, and a hint of sweet cherry. More fruit-driven than earthy, notes of cedar leaves and wood with a touch of tobacco play a supporting role on the nose. The palate is anchored by cleansing acidity, densely packed, velvety tannins, and a deliciously round, fruit-filled core, leading to an herbal (thyme) and floral (violets) finish that gives a sense of lift and elegance to the palate experience. Layered, finesse-driven, this has terrific potential for aging, but its wonderfully charming and accessible now.

“Le Clos du Saut au Loup” 2022 Chinon (14.0% abv.): A concentrated and ripe sweet berry nose that leans a bit more dark fruited (plump black raspberry, blueberry) is given a bit of levity from herbal undertones of sous bois, bay leaf and rosemary. Not overtly floral at the moment, but there is an underlying compressed violet note lingering in the background. It’s lively acidity is perhaps a bit muted at this stage being blanketed by beautifully plush fruit, but there is plenty of life and vibrancy to carry this wine for long term cellaring. The palate is round, with densely-packed, fine, sinewy tannins and a lovely earth-driven, enveloping fruit core that layers in graphite and allspice. Superb balance, restraint and approachability for the vintage.

“Le Grand Saut” 2023 Chinon (13.0% abv., SRP 20.40EUR): Open and perfumed nose inviting you in with fresh red and dark fruits (ripe raspberry, cherry, bramble) and floral undertones of rose and violets. The fragrant nose is supported by delicate and lush herbal notes on the nose and palate, while the palate showcases vibrant, mouth-watering acidity weaving with chalky, firm tannins. Very pretty, elegantly framed, with a round, enveloping mid-palate, and concluding with a delicately spiced (cardamom, nutmeg), graphite-anchored, long finish. A beautifully measured, thoughtful expression of Cabernet Franc from Chinon. Consider decanting now for optimal enjoyment.

Tasting Notes: Back Vintages

“Le Clos du Saut au Loup” 2021 Chinon (13.0% abv.): Very pretty, inviting nose that leans in the sweet-tart red fruit spectrum (raspberry, cran-raspberry juice), with soft, wispy herbs, layered with delicate violet and lilac undertones. The perfumed nose continues on the palate with a touch of spearmint and liquorice. The palate is oh-so succulent, with a bright and juicy middle palate that weaves gracefully with firm, velvety tannin. Round, persistent, demure, balanced. Like so many of the 2021s I have had in recent months, this has entered a beautiful drinking window, and I think the fruit vibrancy and concentration will easily carry this wine for another 10+ years.

“Le Clos du Saut au Loup” 2020 Chinon (13.5% abv.): Welcoming nose, with riper, slightly liquoreux fruit with notes of cherry, kirsch, black raspberry, mixing with cedar leaves and wood, dark earth, cured black olive, soft white floral undertones, graphite and spice. The palate showcases vibrant, lingering acidity, and firm, chewy tannins, with plenty of flesh and roundness leading to a focused, spice-driven (cinnamon, black peppercorn, star anise) finish. The fruit feels a little shy on the palate at the moment, compared to the 2022 and 2021, but I think this will open back up in a few years time.

“Le Clos du Saut au Loup” 2019 Chinon (13.5% abv.): Beautifully aromatic and fragrant nose leading with fresh dark berried-fruit, with invigorating notes of peppermint marrying with perfumed dried rose petal, liquorice and allspice. Vibrant, persistent acidity brings life and focus to the palate, while firm, powdery tannins provide a defined structure that yields to a voluminous, round, densely-packed fruit core. Superb balance. Drinking deliciously at the moment and shows signs that it will continue to cellar and improve over the long term.

“Le Clos du Saut au Loup” 2018 Chinon (14.0% abv.): Bright, succulent nose of beautifully ripe red and dark fruit notes (morello cherry, black raspberry, wild strawberry fruit leather) working in tandem with menthol-fleck earth (pine, rosemary), warming spices (cinnamon, Sichuan peppercorn) and the slightest hint of white chocolate/cocoa butter. Mouthwatering acidity weave with fine, silky tannins that finish with a touch of chalky grip. The pure, round, inviting palate concludes with perfumed-spicy undertones (espelette pepper, cinnamon stick) that give a sense of lift and vigour. Shows fine restraint and harmonious balance from what was an opulent, ripe vintage. Drink or hold - there is plenty of stuffing and life here. (A bottle from my personal cellar, tasted at home May 2026).

“Le Clos du Saut au Loup” 2016 Chinon (13.5% abv.): Red fruit-driven (sweet-tart fresh and dried cherries and raspberries) and showing evolved earthy notes of dried autumn leaves, dried thyme and mint, with notes of star anise, white peppercorn and cardamom carrying through the finish. The cleansing acidity provides a firm backbone alongside linen-like tannins. Lean and energetic, balanced, companionable. Drinking well for those that like old school Chinon with a bit of age. Enjoy now with roast duck leg, quail or Cornish hen.

“Le Clos du Saut au Loup” 2014 Chinon (13.0% abv.): The nose opens with a mix of red fruit and earthy-herbal notes, both beginning to lean into the dried spectrum (dried cranberry, dried cherry, dried tarragon and sage), coupled with a melange of classic spice undertones (cinnamon, clove, liquorice) and tertiary cedar wood and tobacco. The acidity is fresh and mouthwatering, the tannins are fine and chalky. Similarly to the 2016, this is a structured but svelte expression of Chinon, that is classically styled, elegant, with lovely tension and balance. Complete. Drinking well and very in keeping with other 2014s I’ve tasted from the region.

Domaine Dozon

52 Rue du Rouilly, 37500 Ligré, France

+33 2 47 93 17 67

Open to the public for tastings: Monday to Friday: 9am – 12:30pm & 2pm – 6pm; Saturday 10am to 1pm

Global Distribution: Currently available in the US (10 states), UK, Belgium, Denmark, Finland, the Maldives, Mauritius, Reunion Island, and Israel.

A large part of my focus this month was on the three new articles I published here (linked down below if you missed them) and also organizing myself for a trip to the Finger Lakes, my first visit since 2023, so that I can write a report on the region’s Cabernet Francs. With the Cab Franc Forward initiative in full swing and all of its accompanying momentum, as well as the Finger Lakes region being “in my backyard,” it was high time to get back there and get a better sense of what is going on in the region from those that live it and breathe it everyday.

I’ve highlighted a few of my Finger Lakes experiences here (a little preview of what’s to come), but throughout the month I also took some time to taste a few random treasures from my cellar. So, let’s dive in!

Domaine Xavier et Agnès Amirault (Clos des Quarterons), 2017 Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil "Les Gravilices" (12.0% abv., SRP $30USD): From older vines on very gravelly soils in St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, the estate’s "Les Gravilices” bottling always has a little more structure that their “Les Quarterons” cuvée, in part thanks to a little soupçon of old-vine Cabernet Sauvignon, but it is still very much in keeping with this earthy, soft, approachable style of Cabernet Franc. Lifted and fragrant, the nose is translucent with mostly red fruits (currant, cranberry-raspberry, with a hint of black currant and black currant leaf) and layered with a heady mix of rose florals, twiggy dried herbs (thyme, rosemary, dried mint) and peppercorn medley spice. The palate is lean and savoury, with some added tertiary layers of dried cedar, cured black olive and scorched earth. Mouth-watering, zippy acidity and soft, fine, linen-like tannins, it has good flesh through the middle palate and a lingering, round finish. This is still drinking well at nearly ten years from vintage date and nothing suggests to me that this is going to start getting tired anytime soon. Decant for optimal enjoyment, and consider serving with a slow roasted lamb shoulder.

Domaine de la Noblaie, 2022 Chinon “Les Temps de Cerises” (13.5% abv., SRP $27USD): This is the “entry-level” bottling from Domaine de la Noblaie, which comes from a mix of clay-dominated parcels in Ligré on Chinon’s left bank. The clayey impact in this wine brings much more structure than we often associated with early-drinking styles from Chinon, and that, coupled with the concentration and ripeness from the vintage, means this wine could easily go toe-to-toe with vin de garde from another producer. Vibrant and high-toned, the nose is bright and energetic with a sweet-tart, snappy dark fruit core (dark cherry, black currant, and bramble) with supporting herbal and foresty notes (rosemary, cedar wood, mint) and a touch of lavender. Clean and pure, the palate adds vivid, piquant spice (Sichuan peppercorn, cinnamon stick and chilli flake). Lively acidity and densely packed, fine, chewy tannins provide excellent framing on the palate, though it does feel a little closed based on the last time I checked in on this wine. Though some of the wine’s early baby fat has melted away and the tannins requiring a bit more time to resolve, the fruit concentration and flavour depth are more than sufficient to carry it for many years to come. Medium-bodied, approachable, contemporary, wines like this continue to confirm why Domaine de la Noblaie is in the upper echelon of Chinon estates.

Domaine des Roches Neuves, 2023 Saumur-Champigny (12.5% abv., SRP $30USD): I wanted to revisit this wine earlier in the month knowing I was going to be pouring and talking about the 2024 during an upcoming seminar in the Finger Lakes. Domaine des Roches Neuves cuvée “domaine” is from a mix of parcels, often younger blocks from their most esteemed lieux-dits, and vinified all in stainless steel. Still quite fresh, the wine is immediately charming with a nose that marries red and blue fruits (wild strawberries and blueberries on a summer afternoon) with herbal undertones of mint, tarragon and chive flowers, lifted by the prettiest floral notes of peony. There is a clarity and purity here that is a signature of Thierry and Louis Germain’s superb work with Cabernet Franc. The palate carries that same effortless energy, with mouth-watering, buoyant acidity that refreshes without austerity, and soft, satiny tannins that tighten into a fine, chalky finish for just enough structure. Medium-bodied with a subtle generosity to the fruit, this is a wine that is elegant, complete and friendly. It feels like early spring in a glass - dewy, verdant, hopeful.

Durigutti, 2021 Cabernet Franc, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina (13.9% abv., SRP $20USD): From vineyards in the sub-regions of Las Compuertas and Argelo in Luján de Cuyo, and fermented in concrete and aged in fourth-use 500L French oak barrels for 6 months, this is consistently a great benchmark Argentinian Cabernet Franc - and it has held up well in the bottle! The nose and palate show classic tertiary characteristics of warm climate Cabernet Franc with a bit of age, such as notes of dried blackberries and green fig alongside dried leaves and scorched earth, and distinctive herbal aromatics of dried bay leaf and oregano complemented by Earl Grey tea, with the bergamot adding an elegant, perfumed lift. On the palate, fresh, cleansing acidity keeps things lively, while the tannins are velvety and ripe with just a touch of sinewy chew. Full-bodied and richly textured without tipping into excess, with balancing sweet spice (quatre épices and black pepper) through the mid-palate and finish, this is a well-built Cabernet Franc with character and sense of place.

I spent all last week in the Finger Lakes, and then drove out to Long Island to be a part of Lenn Thompson’s tasting panel for his upcoming report on East Coast Cabernet Franc. After eight days and 3200km in my car, I tasted more than 250 Cabernet Francs, most of which was during my visits in the Finger Lakes.

Among the highlights from the week, I was fortunate to have had some thorough “tasting trips down memory lane” with a few producers such as Dr. Konstantin Frank, Sheldrake Point, Hermann J Wiemer, Boundary Breaks, and Master Sommelier Christopher Bates’s Element Winery, all of whom generously opened some library wines so that we explore and discuss each of their journeys making Cabernet Franc in the Finger Lakes.

I also just happened to be visiting when the annual Discover Dry Rosé tasting (organized for industry professionals) was taking place in Geneva. It isn’t often I get to taste such a diverse array of Cabernet Franc rosés in one place! Highlights from this event were some new discoveries for me including the Point of the Bluff Vineyards 2025 Rosé made by former Heron Hill winemaker Jordan Harris, the Casa Larga 2025 Rosé of Cabernet Franc from their vineyards just south of Rochester, Anthony Road’s 2025 Rosé of Cabernet Franc (their Lemberger rosé was very good too!), the floral and almost blanc de noir-pale Neverstill 2025 Rosé, and a library release from McGregor Vineyard who’s been making dry Cabernet Franc rosé since 2002, and their 2020 Rosé was showing remarkably well for being nearly six years old!

In addition to all my winery visits and other tastings, I was also in the region to give an industry seminar on Cabernet Franc, which was hosted by Forge Cellars. From all levels of the Finger Lakes wine trade - grape growers, winemakers, viticulturalists, owners, marketing managers, and more - more than fifty people gathered to gain insights into what is happening in the world of Cabernet Franc, where the Finger Lakes is positioned relative to other wine growing regions, how the region can evolve and improve their work with the variety, and why the Finger Lakes is well-positioned to become a leading benchmark region for the variety in North America.

To establish a benchmark for the attendees, I presented six Loire Valley Cabernet Francs, including the Domaine du Bel Air 2024 Bourgueil “Jour du Soif,” Domaine des Roches Neuves 2024 Saumur-Champigny, Philippe Alliet 2023 Chinon, Domaine Filliatreau 2023 Saumur-Champigny “La Grande Vignolle,” Bernard Baudry 2022 Chinon “Les Grézeaux,” Domaine des Closiers 2022 Saumur-Champigny “Les Closiers.” Not only did these wines impress for their quality and deliciousness, they also served as jumping off point for thoughtful dialogue around viticultural practices, winemaking, vintage variation, varietal character and “correctness,” communications and more. The seminar was followed by an industry social where everyone was encouraged to bring a bottle of Cabernet Franc to share, which fuelled even more curiosity and conversation.

I couldn’t be more grateful to the folks at Forge for bringing this event to life. It is my hope that industry events like this around Cabernet Franc continue with some degree of regularity, because there is no better way for an industry to move the needle qualitatively than through the kind of open, inquisitive conversation that happens when passionate people gather around a common purpose (and grape!) with a shared willingness to taste critically and learn collectively.

That just about wraps it for April! In case you missed some of my recent articles, I’ve highlighted a few below. As always, thank you reading and being on this journey.

Matthieu and Domaine Bernard Baudry need little introduction for lovers of Loire Cabernet Franc. Established in the mid-1970s by Matthieu’s father Bernard, the domaine today is one of Chinon's benchmark estates, and Matthieu has been shaping its direction since his first vintage in 2001. What follows is a lightly edited conversation about the grape he knows best: what it asks of the people who grow it, how to introduce new consumers to it, and what it feels like when it's truly singing.

CFC: For someone new to Cabernet Franc from Chinon, how would you describe this grape and wine?

MB: I'd say that Cabernet Franc, for me, in Chinon, is a temperate grape - the Loire has a relatively temperate climate, and Chinon especially. It has a character that can offer a little ripeness, a little richness, but always with beautiful freshness. It naturally varies according to terroir, but there is always a balance. That comes from the climate, and also from the freshness that the limestone brings, which is the dominant rock in the Loire Valley. It gives the wine its balance - fruit, acid, concentration - but never overflowing with ripeness or with the greenness it may have had in the past.

CFC: Some drinkers are intimidated by the herbaceous side of Cabernet Franc. How do you speak to that?

MB: First, I think they need to taste it, and take a little time with it. It's not a grape that immediately delivers fruitiness, or an immediately charming quality in the way some grapes inherently are. There will always be that light herbaceous note, and that can be intimidating because it takes people back to references from the past, where there was something quite green and unripe - and not only in Cabernet Franc. So you need to take the time. You also need to appreciate the textures of these wines, because they are really quite beautiful. There is a lot of delicacy, a lot of finesse. Yes, there is tannin - it's not a grape without tannin - but the tannins are often very delicate, very elegant. It's a grape that produces very elegant wines.

CFC: Your first vintage was 2001. After more than twenty years working with this grape, what advice would you offer a producer working with Cabernet Franc in another part of the world?

MB: It's difficult to give advice - because I myself like to question what I'm doing, and I still have plenty of things to improve at home before advising others. But I think the most important thing is: don't force the grape. Even if it has colour, even if it seems to have structure, it is very delicate. Don't chase extraction, don't chase power. That's true in the cellar, but it's also true in the vineyard. Be careful not to put it under stress. Vines don't like to be stressed in general, and with Cabernet Franc, even if it has thick skins, too much sun doesn’t bode well for it, and the same goes for too much rain, too much humidity. I like the idea of Cabernet Franc in a garden, where you come to work the soil, you tend to it carefully, and you never put it through suffering.

CFC: Is there a Cabernet Franc that you’ve tasted recently from outside your own cellar that you’ve really enjoyed or has maybe surprised you?

MB: Outside the Loire? It is perhaps terrible to admit, but as someone from Chinon, what I know best is indeed Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur-Champigny. I'm a big fan of Bourgueil. I find there are many beautiful terroirs there. But I once tasted a remarkable single-varietal Cabernet Franc from Saint-Émilion - a very pure, very precise expression of the grape. And then there was a wine from Niagara, Canada that you [Allison Slute] brought to a masterclass for the Chinon producers' syndicate. We tasted it together there, and I was truly moved by it. I've since mentioned that wine to other vignerons and journalists - it was very young, but it was delicious. That's a Cabernet Franc I still think about.

CFC: Last question - three words to describe Cabernet Franc for you.

MB: Elegance - because that’s how I love wine in general, and it’s a grape for which that word truly works.

Freshness - yes, it’s a word that gets used often, especially now with climate change and people looking for lighter, fresher wines, but the Loire genuinely has a cool climate, and freshness is something this grape is rightly known for.

Vibration - because at a certain moment with a great Cabernet Franc, you feel there is a rhythm in the wine. It makes you vibrate a little. You want to keep listening to this music, this song. You want to revisit the wine. That’s a spontaneous answer. I didn’t plan it.

CFC: That was exactly the goal. It’s wonderful. Santé, Matthieu.

For more on the wines from Domaine Bernard Baudry, check out some of the below posts:

What Jean-Pierre leaves behind is not simply a well-run estate, but a foundation built on meticulous work in the vineyards and cellar, and on the values that have shaped the domaine's approach since the mid-1980s. It is on this foundation that his daughters Caroline and Cécile now stand, each bringing her own sensibility and ambition to the work. The story of Château de Villeneuve is not one of transition so much as it is one of continuity with momentum. A domaine with deep roots and, in the hands of the next generation, every reason to believe its finest chapters are still ahead.

The Domaine

The history and vineyards of Château de Villeneuve can be traced back to 1577, when the estate was known as Bel Air. The proprietors were the de Villeneuve family, nobles in the court of the Dukes of Luynes. The estate’s inheritor was the youngest of the two sons, Jean-Marie Berthelot de Villeneuve, who gave the estate its current name.

The modern-day story of Château de Villeneuve begins 1969 when it was purchased be Robert Chevallier, who came from a long line of vignerons from neighbouring Dampierre-sur-Loire. In 1982, Robert’s son Jean-Pierre returned from his studies in Bordeaux and took up reigns at the estate. Very quick to understand the importance of soil health for viticulture, in 1983 Jean-Pierre stopped using fertilizers and weed-killers, planting grasses between the rows of the vineyards and began working the vineyards in a more holistic manner.

The château and a significant portion of the domaine’s vineyards sits atop an ancient troglodyte cellar that was carved out of the tuffeau chalk many centuries ago. The family began the restoration of the underground cellar in the late 1990s, work that concluded with a new chai being built in 2016.

Having recently retired, Jean-Pierre has since passed the torched to the next generation of the Chevallier family to lead the estate, his daughters Caroline and Cécile. Cécile manages the operations, while Caroline is responsible for the work in the vineyard and cellar. Under the guidance of her father, Caroline’s first solo vintage at the domaine was 2023.

The Vineyards

Château de Villeneuve has about 25 hectares of vines, 20 of which are Cabernet Franc (the balance planted with Chenin Blanc1), across fourteen lieux-dits, with the majority of the parcels concentrated on the plateau of Souzay-Champigny with some parcels in neighbouring Dampierre-sur-Loire to the west and Parnay to the east.

While the viticultural area in Souzay-Champigny stretches about 4.5km to the northern edge of the forêt de Fontevraud in the south, the 1.5km wide tuffeau plateau perched up above the Loire River at the northern end of the commune would be considered among the village’s most prized vineyard land.

The tuffeau chalk bedrock of the plateau not only makes this land highly desirable for viticulture thanks to the tuffeau’s water regulating capacities, but after being quarried out many centuries ago to build many of the Loire’s great châteaux, the troglodyte caves below the surface provide ideal conditions for making and aging wine. In addition to the precious benefits of the tuffeau bedrock, this area benefits from the moderating influence of the Loire making it less frost-prone than other areas of the commune and the relatively flat vineyard area gives these sites uninterrupted sunshine during the growing season.

Located on the eastern part of the plateau, the lieu-dit Villeneuve, from which the estate takes its name, along with neighbouring Les Champs Chardons, these two lieux-dits represent the heart and soul of the estate’s holdings accounting for a little over half of their Cabernet Franc plantings. At the northern most part of the lieu-dit Villeneuve, closest to the château and chai, we find the family’s “Le Grand Clos” parcel, a little over 4 hectares of older vines planted in the late 1970s, though not all 4 hectares will go into the Le Grand Clos bottling.

Two other lieux-dits of note for the domaine are La Bienboire and Fief Garnier. Located just adjacent to Les Champs Chardons, La Bienboire has been reputed for viticulture since the 1600s, being denoted on some of the earliest maps of the region. Today, the Chevallier family has 1.5 hectares of Cabernet Franc vines at La Bienboire that were planted in the mid-1980s, and the fruit from this vineyard goes into the cuvée of the same name. The lieu-dit Fief Garnier is on the plateau of Dampeirre-sur-Loire about 1.5km west of the domaine, and this 1.65 hectare parcel has the estate’s oldest vines, planted in 1937 by Jean-Pierre’s grandfather. These vines, along with the plantings from 1956 and 1957 in the same lieu-dit, have been at the heart of the domaine’s Vieilles Vignes bottling.

In terms of soils across the domaine’s parcels, it is interesting to note that they are relatively homogeneous. Across their vineyards, about 85% of their Cabernet Franc vines are planted on the soils influenced by the Middle Turonian tuffeau chalk, known here as craie verte, which is a glauconitic-micaceous chalk. The topsoil across their parcels is also relatively uniform, being classified as a clayey-sandy silt (limon argilo-sableux in French), with 25% each clay and sand content. Where we see some variability is the depth of the topsoil and subsoil texture, which can range from 40cm to upwards of 100cm, with some parcels having slightly more clay content in the subsoil before the vine roots reach the tuffeau chalk bedrock. Across the board, these are very good soils for cultivating Cabernet Franc, with ideal depth, water reserves, drainage capabilities and potential for vigour.

In the vineyard, the estate has been farming organically since 2009, certified in 2011. They are extremely meticulous with their vineyard work in order to keep the yields low and the vines in balance. They perform shoot and bud thinning as needed in the spring, careful leaf pulling around the fruiting zone, and will green harvest after veraison if the vintage warrants it.

The Wines

From their 20 hectares of Cabernet Franc vines, Château de Villeneuve makes a classic range of four Cabernet Francs including their Cuvée Domaine, Clos de la Bienboire, Vieilles Vignes/Cuvée 1937 (see below) and their top expression Le Grand Clos.

Following in her father’s footsteps, Caroline is extremely conscientious about her harvest dates for Cabernet Franc erring on the side of picking a touch earlier as opposed to later in order to retain fresh fruit flavours and bright acid profiles. She also favours cold maceration for upwards of five days during which she will work the whole berries a bit more judiciously to extract colour and flavour rather than tannin. For each of their reds, fermentations are at cooler temperatures, maceration and extraction will vary depending on the cuvée, they use indigenous yeast for the ferments and limit the use of sulphur during fermentation and bottling. For the aging, they generally prefer to bottle earlier after a shorter élevage (12 to 15 months) in order to preserve the fruit in its pure, youthful state, then aging in bottle longer, when desired, prior to release.

In the glass, the wines of Château de Villeneuve embody a rare kind of quiet mastery: pure, poised, and genuinely modest. There is nothing here that reaches or strains; the wines speak with quiet confidence. Polished without ever feeling manufactured, approachable without sacrificing depth, they are benchmarks in Saumur-Champigny not for their ambition, but for their typicity - for how completely and honestly they communicate a sense of place. What runs through the entire range is a thread of classic, timeless elegance. The early-drinking wines carry it effortlessly, with an ease that never sacrifices sophistication, while the vins de garde wear it with quiet authority, built to age gracefully and reward patience.

Cuvée Domaine: Representing about 50% of the domaine’s production, the Cuvée Domaine is from about 13 hectares worth of the estate’s vines. Each parcel is vinified separately in stainless steel, seeing about 10 days on skins, with a very gentle approach to extractions. Aging can be in large wooden vats, foudres or tonneaux depending on the parcel. An assemblage is done after about 12 to 15 months.

I have long considered the Cuvée Domaine from Château de Villeneuve to be an archetypal, benchmark expression of Saumur-Champigny. It is the sort of wine I would reach for to introduce a new drinker to Cabernet Franc from Saumur-Champigny. Easy-drinking fruit and freshness but with a sense of refinement that the tuffeau terroir brings to these entry-level expressions that make the wine feel sophisticated yet approachable at the same time. The estate’s Cuvée Domaine delivers that early-drinking, fruit-forward appeal but also has enough structure and concentration to hold for the medium term.

Clos de la Bienboire: This cuvée uses fruit exclusively from the vines at La Bienboire, which consistently produces fruit with thinner skins and a little less “matière” than other parcels. It is the sort of parcel that would work well for rosé - if you liked rosé! But Jean-Pierre has never been partial to this style of Cabernet Franc, so he decided to make a soft, juicy red from this fruit back in 2009, and the domaine has never looked back!

Fermented in stainless steel with a brief time (7 days) on skins, it has and will always be vinified and bottled without any added sulphur (a sans soufre cuvée before it became cool to make them!). This wine is über pleasurable with effortless drinkability - living up to the vineyard’s name “Bienboire,” meaning “drink well” in French! It is really best when enjoyed young, within the first couple years of bottling, but it can hold up well if you want less of that bright, pure fruit character.

Cuvée 1937/Vieilles Vignes: With a wealth of older vines, it is not uncommon for producers in the Loire to make a “Vieilles Vignes” Cabernet Franc. Unlike many Vieilles Vignes expressions I’ve tried that tend to be a small step up in quality from an estate’s “cuvée tradition” or “cuvée domaine,” like the entire range of Cabernet Francs from Château de Villeneuve, their Vieilles Vignes punches way above its weight class, delivering at level on par or better than many “single vineyard” wines from other estates.

This wine comes from the small parcel of the estate’s oldest vines at the lieu-dit Fief Garnier. The renaming of this wine to “Cuvée 1937” starting with the 2023 vintage pays hommage to the heritage of this very old parcel. Caroline and Cécile went so far as to describe, in detail, the terroir of this parcel on the label. The wine undergoes fermentation in larger oak vats, with longer time on skins (20 days), and aging in older 400L and 500L oak barrels. What I love about this wine is how well it marries accessibility with ageability. You can enjoy it while you’re waiting for the Le Grand Clos to mature, but you can easily cellar it for 10+ years and it will just keep getting better.

Le Grand Clos: The estate’s top expression of Cabernet Franc, this is coming from the domaine’s best parcels in the lieu-dit Villeneuve. The parcels chosen for this cuvée generally come from the same block of older vines, a block that yields low and ripens quite early, upwards of eight days earlier than the bulk of the estate’s parcels.

Like all of the estate’s Cabernet Francs, the fruit is hand-harvested, and here the fermentation is in large wooden vats. A longer time on skins with more extractions sets this cuvée up to have the structure of a true vin de garde. The aging is typically in a combination of 12hl oak foudres and 500L demi muids, occasionally incorporating older barriques for a small portion.

Like many of the appellation’s top structured, age-worthy wines, the Le Grand Clos is built for the cellar, and I’ve found it can often take 5 to 7 years from the vintage date for this wine to really start to come into its own. What sets this wine apart from some of its peers, however, is it never feels like it is trying too hard. When some top vins de garde feel like they are swinging for the fences, there is a modesty, finesse and subtly to the Le Grand Clos that makes it truly accessible - both in what we experience in the glass and how the wine presents emotionally and intellectually, anyone can appreciate the quiet beauty of Château de Villeneuve’s Le Grand Clos.

Tasting Notes

“Cuvée Domaine” 2023 Saumur-Champigny (12% abv., SRP $23USD/13EUR): Very pretty, fragrant yet soft-spoken on the nose that leans a little bit more precisely in the herbal-floral space with notes of soft herbs (basil, tarragon) and violets leading alongside fresh red and dark berries and delicate warming spices. Medium-bodied with lively, mouth-watering acidity that gives divine drinkability without ever feeling pointy or austere. The tannins are impeccably managed. Polished, silky in the mouth with a crushed velvet finish. Stylish and poised, but never pretentious, deliciously inviting. Drinks impeccably well now, but will improve and continue to bring pleasure over the medium term.

“Clos de la Bienboire” 2024 Saumur-Champigny (12% abv., SRP $27USD/15EUR): An explosion of pink leaps from the glass. Notes of rose, peony, pink peppercorns mingle with small, snappy red berries (cranberry, lingonberry, and a hint of wild strawberry). Soft, wispy herbs and delicate white pepper spice add intrigue to the palate. Vibrant, juicy acidity and soft, satiny tannins add to the inviting, deliciously drinkable palate. Energetic, characterful, convivial. Just delightful. Serve slightly chilled to maximize the wine’s thirst-quenching, pleasure-delivering personality.

“Cuvée 1937” 2023 Saumur-Champigny (12% abv., SRP $30USD/18EUR): The nose instantly has depth and presence, beautifully layered with fruit and earth undertones on equal footing. Dark berries, sous bois, delicate fern, cedar leaves and a hint of thyme. Cleansing, persistent acidity weaves together with velvety tannins to create tension and structure without ever feeling rigid. Elegantly built, with a succulent mid-palate weight, finishing with notes of pink and green peppercorns, cardamom and a touch of chalky minerality. A masterclass in subtly with substance. To be released in summer 2026. Lovely approachability now, and has plenty to carry this for 10+ years at least.

“Vieilles Vignes” 2022 Saumur-Champigny (13% abv., SRP $30USD/18EUR): The same depth and presence in the 2023 was evident in the 2022 though with a more sunny, riper character that is typical of the vintage. Ripe berries, with undertones of red cherry and cassis, marry with herbal and floral notes of rosemary, cedar wood, violet and lavender, and spicy undertones of clover and crushed black pepper. Perhaps a touch shy on the nose at this stage, but the future potential is clear. The palate is fresh, vibrant with refreshing acidity, and very fine, firm, crushed velvet tannins give way to a round, plush, moreish mid-palate, which carries through to a long, focused finish. Beautifully restrained with impressive elegance, and enormous potential for cellaring. In a word, stunning.

“Le Grand Clos” 2021 Saumur-Champigny (12% abv., SRP $45USD/28EUR): Expressive nose that is lifted, fragrant and perfumed with sweet, red berry fruits (strawberry, raspberry), delicate earth (tarragon, cedar leaves), pink florals and layered spices (liquorice, star anise, allspice). The open and inviting nose gives way to a palate that is more modest and reserved; very characteristic of the vintage for a wine of this caliber, though it shows good potential. Lively, persistent acidity and firm, chalky tannins make the palate a touch austere, though the depth and concentration of fruit suggests there is plenty of “gras” and substance that will fill the wine out. Elongated and elegant, with a sense of weightlessness through the finish, the wine exudes polish and sophistication and will reward with patience. Demure with timeless elegance, this wine that will only grow more eloquent with age.

Château de Villeneuve (Chevallier, Cécile et Caroline)

3 rue Jean Brevet, 49400 Souzay-Champigny, France

+33 2 41 51 14 04 (tasting by appointment only)

Global Distribution: Currently available in the United States (16 states), Canada (Québec, Ontario), Mexico, the Netherlands, Belgium, Sweden, Norway, Denmark, Austria, Italy, Switzerland, United Kingdom, China, Hong Kong, South Korea, Kazakhstan, Australia, French Polynesia

The United States has had a number of pioneering importers - Kermit Lynch, Joe Dressner, Neal Rosenthal to name a few - who fell in love with Loire Valley Cabernet Franc, long before the likes of Clos Rougeard and others became coveted favourites among wine professionals. David Lille of Chamber Street Wines is not mentioned to the same degree as some of the aforementioned importers, but one quick browse of the company’s online store and you will see very quickly that David has a soft spot in his heart for the Loire Valley. And thanks to David Lille’s keen palate, he “discovered” Stéphane Guion and his wines back in 2009 and didn't hesitate to see what others had missed.

My first introduction to Stéphane’s wines came when I lived in Miami, when there was a local distributor carrying the range from Percy Selections. I remember being immediately taken with the domaine’s style of Cabernet Franc, which felt akin to some of the wines I fell in love with when I started this journey, such as the great wines of Olga Raffault, Domaine Breton and others. The wines were pure, honest, somewhat old school expressions of Loire Cabernet Franc that celebrated the strong identity of the grape in all of its glory. I understood the wines well enough then, or so I thought. It would take meeting the vigneron behind them to understand them completely.

I had the pleasure of meeting Stéphane for the first time at the domaine for a tasting in the spring of 2022. It was my last appointment in a very ambitious day of tasting in the eastern part of the Bourgueil appellation, and I arrived at the domaine over an hour late. On arrival, I was befuddled, embarrassed, and mentally exhausted from speaking in French the entire day. Stéphane's kind and compassionate energy was welcomed, and in that ease, something crystallized. The wines I had admired from a distance were suddenly explained; not by what was in the glass, but by the person standing in front of me. The honesty of the wines, their quiet charm, their lack of pretension - he was them, and they were him.

The Domaine

The estate was established in the early 1950s by Stéphane’s parents, Jean and Yolande Guion, with 5 hectares of vines from Jean’s side of the family and 3 from Yolande’s side. Their humble beginnings were like many domaines in the Loire, beginning as a polyculture farm, tending to other crops in addition to their Cabernet Franc vines.

One aspect of the estate’s history that makes it particularly unique is their focus on organic viticulture. Jean and Yolande converted to organic viticulture in 1965 - at a time when it was far more fashionable to use whatever new fertilizer/herbicide/pesticide came available to make farming easier. Instead, with their deep concern and respect for the environment, Jean and Yolande chose to farm organically following the Lemaire-Boucher method.

Stéphane’s own journey as a vigneron began in the mid-1980s, pursuing wine studies in Bordeaux before going on to become Maître de Chai at Chinon’s Château de Vaugaudry from 1988 to 1994. His first vintage at the family domaine in Benais was 1990. Not much has changed at the domaine since these modest beginnings, and that is part of what makes Stéphane and his range of Cabernet Francs so endearing.

The Vineyards

Stéphane is working with around 9 hectares of vines from parcels from across the commune of Benais exclusively. The main lieux-dits he is farming include, from northwest to southeast, Chavannes, le Maupas, la Caverie, Grand Mont, les Marquises, and Petit Mont.

The commune of Benais is situated on the east side of the Changeon River, and the heart of the commune’s viticultural landscape is situated about 5 to 6km north of the Loire River. This position makes Benais unique in the Bourgueil appellation: its vineyards are exclusively on the slopes (the/le côte) and it is the only commune in the appellation that does not have vineyards on the alluvial terraces.

The location of the commune and, by extension, the lieux-dits with which Stéphane is working, means that the terroir across these parcels is distinct from other parts of the Bourgueil appellation, and that distinction is felt in the glass. Firstly, the microclimate tends to be a little bit cooler overall as there is less moderation from the Loire River as well as the temperate effects of the forêt de Benais to the north. It is worth mentioning, however, that the slopes do benefit from predominately south- to southwest-facing exposures promoting enhanced ripening during the growing season despite the slightly cooler conditions.

Secondly, the soils on the côte in Benais are what the French broadly call argilo-calcaire, that is, clay-limestone soils. More specifically, it is notably that Benais does not really have the same deep, light textured, sandy or sandy-silty soils that we find on the alluvial terrace, rather the vineyard topsoils range from very clayey to a clay silt-loam mix (argile limoneuse in French). The soils are typically quite shallow, 50-60cm on average, and upwards to 100 to 150cm in some places, followed by a bedrock of either the Middle or Upper Turonian tuffeau chalk.

It is generally understood across Bourgueil and the other Cabernet Franc appellations in the Loire that these clay-limestone soils are best suited to producing structured, age-worthy expressions of the grape. The nature of these soils, coupled with the cooler microclimate, means that these sites in Benais are often some of the last to be picked in the appellation. The long hang-time allows for more phenolic development of the skins and seeds, which can give firmer tannins and a more pronounced tannic structure in the glass, and for this reason the wines from Benais are known to be the most structured and tannic of the Bourgueil appellation.

The Wines

Stéphane’s core range of Cabernet Francs include his Cuvée Candide (formerly the Cuvée Domaine), Cuvée Authentique (formerly the Cuvée Préstige) and his top expression Grand Mont or Deux Monts depending on the vintage. While the choice of vessel for winemaking and aging varies slightly with each cuvée, across the board Stéphane approaches his vinifications using native yeast, adjusting his maceration time and extraction techniques as per the cuvée and the vintage, and favouring longer bottle aging before releasing the wines to market.

In my experience with Stéphane's Cabernet Francs, the wines are a faithful reflection of the man himself - honest, unpretentious, and made with a quiet confidence that never seeks to impress for its own sake. There is a humility to them. They are minimalist wines in the truest sense of the word. Pared down, unadorned, their subtlety the very thing that makes them so amiable and charming. These are not wines built for spectacle. They are soft-spoken and companionable. When young, they invite you back to the glass again and again, and with time in the bottle, they reward your patience.

What strikes me most is their benevolence. Despite the firm tannic architecture that is the hallmark of Benais, there is an openness and tenderness that runs through Stéphane’s entire range. Understated in the best possible way, they ask nothing of you; unpretentious enough to enjoy without overthinking, and rewarding enough to merit the effort you choose to give. In a wine world that too often equates complexity with showmanship, Stéphane's wines are a quiet but compelling argument for restraint.

Cuvée Candide: This wine is from selected parcels across all of the domaine’s lieux-dits and is generally from the estate’s “youngest” vines, 30-35 years on average. This cuvée would be, for all intents and purposes, the domaine’s “entry-level” wine, though it is more concentrated and structured by virtue of the soils where the estate’s vineyards are situated.

Stéphane’s desire for this cuvée is to preserve the fruit profile, and thus he vinifies the wine in stainless steel and it sees a short élevage in tank for about 8 to 10 months. This wine’s tannin profile is typically quite pronounced when young, so he will generally bottle age the Cuvée Candide for about two years before release. While other vignerons are quick to release their vins de soif by summer of the year following harvest, Stéphane’s current release of this cuvée can be two to three vintages behind his neighbours.

With this wine’s concentration and overall tannin structure, it can age exceptionally well. On release, it usually benefits from another 6 months of bottle age and continues to get better over the medium term (three to seven years) but it can easily age much longer. When enjoyed young, consider decanting and serving it alongside the appropriate protein to help soften its firmer tannins.

Cuvée Authentique: This wine is the old vines (vieilles vignes) selection from the same lieux-dits as the Cuvée Candide, typically 50 to 60 years of age on average. Like the Cuvée Candide, Stéphane chooses to vinify and age the wine all in stainless steel to preserve the freshness and purity of the fruit, and it is bottled after about 12 months in tank. It is generally bottle aged closer to three years, so you’ll often see its current vintage a year behind that of Candide.

In my experience, this wine shows the “terroir” in a more pronounced way, in part, I think, from the older vines and also the vinification in stainless steel. It tends to be more linear, with a noticeable vertical acid spine that brings tension and focus in the glass. For me, it is always the most floral of Stéphane’s reds, which I find particularly charming. With time, the textural sensation of the “Benais clay” and the mineral salinity of the tuffeau chalk really start to shine through.

Grand Mont and Deux Monts: First released with the 2009 vintage, Deux Monts historically was an assemblage from Stéphane’s best parcels from the lieux-dits Petit Mont and Grand Mont. The domaine has only bottled the Deux Monts in years that Stéphane deems exceptional at expressing the terroir, which include 2009, 2010, 2014, 2017, 2018, 2019. In “lesser” vintages, the fruit is declassified and goes into the Authentique bottling. In 2020, Stéphane made the decision to transition this cuvée to using his exclusively the 2.3 hectares of vines from Grand Mont, making it now a single vineyard wine (the top parcels from Petit Mont now go into the Cuvée Authentique). It is worth mentioning there is no Grand Mont in 2021.

For both the Deux Monts and Grand Mont, the approach in the cellar has remained consistent. Stéphane prefers slightly longer maceration in large oak vats with aging for about 18 months in 400L older oak barrels. Similarly to the Authentique, this sees a minimum of three years aging in bottle before release.

Stéphane’s Deux Monts and now his Grand Mont are vins de garde that can go toe-to-toe with some of the appellation’s best. Beautifully composed and impressively structured, with concentration, depth and complexity, it is wine that really starts to shine about 10 years from the vintage date and has an almost indefatigable lifespan in the bottle. I wouldn’t hesitate recommending this wine to someone looking to build a Loire Cabernet Franc cellar.

Other Cuvées: One of Stéphane’s newest offerings is his “Pionniers,” which he made for the first time in 2023. This wine is exactly the same as the Cuvée Candide except that it is bottled without added sulphur (sans soufre, as the French would say). The name “Pionniers” translates to “pioneers,” which is a nod to his parents’ decision to approach their work more “naturally” and beginning to farm organically in 1965 - one of the first in the appellation to do so.

Working exclusively with Cabernet Franc in his vineyards, Stéphane has chosen “expand” his range of wines by working creatively with the grape (as opposed to planting Chenin) to produce a still dry rosé, as well as two traditional method sparkling wines, a rosé and a blanc de noir.

Tasting Notes: Recent Vintages

“Pionniers” 2023 Bourgueil (12% abv., SRP 12EUR/$20USD): Subtle, fragrant and earthy, with ripe, dark berry fruits, cedar leaves, and delicate clove spice. A juicy and lip-smacking fruit profile on the palate with plenty of energy and freshness. Velvety tannins, inviting middle palate fruit, with a touch of graphite and black peppercorn through the finish. Welcoming, friendly, immediately accessible and dangerously drinkable.

“Candide” 2023 Bourgueil (12% abv., SRP 11.50EUR): Compared to the Pionniers, the Candide 2023 was a little more introverted on the nose and palate. Notes of black cherry and black raspberry mix with foresty undertones and thyme, rounded out by black and pink peppercorn spice. Succulent, with lively acidity and a plush mid-palate. Fine, chalky tannins wrap around the fruit core giving way to a taut, clayey grip through the finish. Understated, charming and fresh, it will reward with a bit more patience.

“Candide” 2022 Bourgueil (13% abv., SRP 11.50EUR/$18USD): Leads with ripe, dark berries and bramble on the nose with an underlying note of fragrant bouquet garni, cedar and wet stones. A pure and generous palate, with focused acidity complemented by fine, firm, chalky tannins. Structured but approachable, with a round, enveloping, moreish finish. Shows beautiful restraint and vibrancy from the very warm 2022 vintage. Delicious now, and will absolutely improve over medium to long term.

“Authentique” 2023 Bourgueil (12.5% abv., not yet released): Perfumed red fruit (cherry, raspberry) with notes of sous bois, fir, thyme and soft baking spice (nutmeg) through the finish. Concentrated, with lively acidity and firm, velvety tannins that finish with a sinewy, grip. The fleshy and round mid-palate is well-corseted and elongated by the persistent backbone of acidity. Beautifully composed, elegant, balanced. Likely to be released later early 2027, this wine will reward with another 3 to 5 years in the bottle.

“Authentique” 2022 Bourgueil (13% abv., not yet released): Fragrant and floral, the red fruits are in keeping with the 2023 vintage but showing a slightly riper, coulis-like profile. Spicy pink florals (peony, rose) marries with liquorice, autumn leaves and cardamom spice through the finish. Fresh, linear acidity with velvety, firm tannins, extremely approachable for the vintage. Serious, gourmand, generous. In keeping with Stéphane’s style, the 2022 feels understated, while remaining true to this solaire vintage.

“Authentique” 2021 Bourgueil (12% abv., not yet released): A cooler, more classic “Loire” vintage, the wine leads with bright red fruits, peppery spice undertones, notes of violets, mint and chalky minerality. A lighter profile, particularly compared to the 2022 and 2020, but not lacking in flavour or concentration. Vibrant acidity and well-managed, fine-grained tannins work together to build a fine structure. Long and lean, balletic and harmonious. Tuck away and enjoy the generosity of the 2022 and 2020 in the meantime.

“Authentique” 2020 Bourgueil (13% abv., SRP 12.50EUR/$20USD): Fleshy red-fruited nose that leans a little more cherry compote as opposed to fresh-picked cherries, with cedar and rosemary herbaceous undertones and delicate cardamom and white pepper spice. Mouth-watering acidity, beautifully round, velvety tannins that finish with the slightest chalky tug on the tongue. Sumptuously textured, vivid, complete. Drinking marvellously now, and will no doubt go the distance in the cellar.

“Authentique” 2019 Bourgueil (13% abv., SRP 13.50EUR/$22USD): Aromatic and inviting, showing a mix of fresh red and dark fruits, with menthol-like herbals (mint, rosemary) and a touch of pine, and warming cinnamon and Sichuan peppercorn spice through the finish. The acidity is vibrant, the tannins decidedly firm, chalky and not quite as resolved as the 2020. Classic, structured, with a taut, focused mid-palate. Broad-shouldered, but svelte. Hold for a few more years and enjoy the 2020 in the meantime.

“Grand Mont” 2020 Bourgueil (13% abv., SRP 24EUR/$32USD): Pure, lusciously fragrant with dark berry notes and subtle herbal aromas marry with violet florals, bittersweet chocolate, and heady star anise and allspice. Fresh, mouth-watering acidity alongside crushed velvet tannins, the wine has superb concentration and depth signalling the grandeur of this terroir. While impressively structured and built for long-term cellaring, the wine has so much ease and drinkability with its enveloping, fleshy mid-palate. Regal, refined, captivating. I wouldn’t fault you for enjoying this now, but it will probably be even better in a 5 to 7 years time.

“Deux Monts” 2019 Bourgueil (13% abv., SRP 20EUR/$30USD): Showing a touch more “varietal- forward” than the 2020, the 2019 leads with a balanced mix of red and dark berries, with a distinct menthol-edge of mint and rosemary alongside tarragon and a touch of forest floor. The palate shows added layers of dissected violets, liquorice and fragrant quatre épice. Persistent, nervy acidity with firm, tightly-woven tannins, the palate is upright, structured and with a pronounced clayey-mineral impact through the mid-palate. Still a touch unyielding at the moment, particularly compared to the 2020, but I love the verve that comes from this more herbal-forward palate, it just needs a little more time for the tannins to meld with the fruit.

“Deux Monts” 2018 Bourgueil (14% abv., SRP 22EUR/$32USD): From the very warm 2018 vintage, the nose is quite open, red fruit-driven in a way that leans a touch in the fruit leather space, with an exquisite mix of pink and purple florals, soft herbs, and a bit of tertiary development of wet clay, liquorice, graphite and chai spices. A generous palate showcases refreshing acidity and lush, velvety tannins, with a round, voluminous fruit-ladened mid-palate that never feels like too much. Long, deliciously satisfying, this is coming into a lovely drinking window at the moment, and no doubt will continue to improve over the long term.

2024 Cabernet Franc Rosé Méthode Traditionelle Brut (12% abv., SRP 15EUR): Made in the traditional method with 9 months on fine lees, 11 g/L dosage. Leads with pure, lively fruits and florals. Tiny red berries (currants, lingonberry, wild strawberry) with pretty floral undertones of lilac and jasmine. A delicate, creamy palate, with cleansing acidity and a touch of sweetness on the finish. A thirst-quenching, pleasurable sparkling rosé that leads with fruit as opposed to autolytic character. An ideal brunch bubbles candidate!

2023 Blanc de Noir Crémant de Loire Brut (12% abv., SRP 15EUR): Traditional method with 12 months on fine lees and 7g/L dosage. The nose and palate show the fruit complexity that Cabernet Franc can bring in a blanc de noir style with notes of white raspberry, wispy herbs (basil, tarragon), and white florals, alongside a touch of arrowroot biscuit and fresh ginger. Crisp, clean palate with refreshing acidity and a fine, creamy mousse working to give a bit of structural dimension to the palate. Characterful with lovely balance. Drier than the rosé sparkling, this would make a great apéritif with charcuterie.

Tasting Notes: Back Vintages

On my recent visit, Stéphane and I spoke about the 2025 vintage and the reputation and track record of “the 5s,” and I asked about his experiences with vintages ending in 6. Remarking that he had not re-tasted anything from these “6” vintages in recent years, we proceeded to head down to his personal cave beneath his home to see if there were any bottles lying around to taste. The Cabernet Franc gods were on my side that day, and there was a 2016, 2006 and 1996 of the Cuvée Préstige in Stéphane’s cave for us to taste.

“Cuvée Préstige” 2016 Bourgueil (12.5% abv.): Bright, crunchy red fruit profile, with lots of earthy depth, like dried thyme and basil, sandalwood, that is on equal footing with the fruit. Fragrant with rose potpourri florals and piquant, heady spices (Sichuan peppercorn, star anise, chilli flake). Lively acidity provides tension, while the tannins are fine, firm and chalky from start to finish. Lean and lifted, almost feather-like in weight, with a savoury, round fruit core that lingers long on the palate. Drinking well, with vibrancy and elegance.

“Cuvée Préstige” 2006 Bourgueil (12.5% abv.): The most “ligerien” of the three “6” vintages we tasted, this wine was certainly a bit more varietally-forward with pronounced earthier undertones of wild forest berries, potting soil, autumn leaves and a faint hint of potpourri florals and liquorice spice. Refreshing acidity and gauzy tannins weave to create a delicate structure, and a fine, Pinot-like weight and texture. Drinking well, and probably lacking in a little concentration to hold much longer.

“Cuvée Préstige” 1996 Bourgueil (12.5% abv.): From one of the better vintages of the 1990s, this 1996 was absolutely exceptional. Savoury with very pretty underlying herbal character, with added layers of dried cranberries, mushroom, candied orange peel, and heady Christmas spices. This wine was SO transparent to the terroir, you could’ve easily mistaken there to be clay and crushed up chalk in your glass. Beautifully harmonious, and still remarkably energetic, concentrated and with plenty of depth at 30 years of age. Impressive.

Domaine Stéphane GUION

3 Rte de Saint-Gilles, 37140 Benais, France

+33 6 68 70 20 77 (tasting by appointment only)

Global Distribution: Current available in the US (45 states), Canada (Ontario, Manitoba), UK, Ireland, Belgium, the Netherlands, Denmark, Norway, Switzerland, Portugal, Japan.

For those that don’t live in Ontario or many parts of Northeastern United States, this winter has been one of the coldest, snowiest and longest winters in recent memory. The first snowfall arrived on November 9th, and as I type this, there are snow drifts over 50cm deep still blanketing my yard that have not begun to melt. I’m so over it.

Meanwhile, in the Loire Valley, spring is well underway, Chenin buds (with Cabernet Franc not far behind) have already burst across much of the region, and vignerons were on frost watch late last week. Early reports suggest that temperatures didn’t dip low enough to cause any damage, but the frost risk window will persist through April, so no doubt there may still be more sleepless nights ahead for vignerons.

This involuntary hibernation brought on by the winter of 2026 did mean, however, that I was able to be productive in my tastings and planning for the months ahead. So, I suppose there is a flip side to every coin. Suffice it to say, I will be very happy to see “April” at the top of the calendar tomorrow.

After a busy February, March was a relatively relaxed month of tasting, and I’m delighted to share with you a few highlights from recent weeks.

In my January Tasting Diaries, I highlighted the 2022 Saumur Rouge “Clos Mazurique” from Arnaud Lambert, and earlier this month I decided to pop the cork on the 2022 Saumur-Champigny “Terres Rouges” (14% abv., SRP $25USD/12 EUR). If you ever have the chance, these two wines are always fascinating to taste side-by-side as they are essentially made the exact same way but from two distinct terroirs. I actually did this exercise during an Instagram Live back in 2023 in honour of Cabernet Franc Day, which was a fun 75-minute nerdy deep dive into these two terroirs and wines. Generally speaking, the Terres Rouges is always a bit more plush, open and generous than the Clos Mazurique from the same vintage, while the Clos Mazurique leans more nuanced and reserved.

The 2022 Terres Rouges is in a terrific place at the moment. Lifted, fragrant, spicy, with foresty red fruits (cranberry, lingonberry, raspberry) mixing with well-defined herbal notes of mint and rosemary alongside pink florals and a touch of sumac (the sumac note in this wine is very consistent from vintage to vintage). A heady mélange of Cabernet Franc varietal spice (pink, black, Sichuan peppercorns) comes through more on the palate. Refreshing acidity and silky, uniform tannins weave together to create a seamless structure, while a plush, fruit-ladened mid-palate delivers pleasure and drinkability. Layered, pure, precise, without being intricate, with lovely balance and restraint for the vintage.

Le Macchiole, 2018 IGT Toscana “Paleo Rosso,” Bolgheri, Italy (14% abv., SRP $125USD): Sometimes you just need to open a showstopper Cabernet Franc! Particularly when enjoying a standing prime rib roast with all the fixings to help cure the mid-winter blues. The Paleo Rosso is Bolgheri’s original 100% Cabernet Franc. Today, nearly a third of all estates in the region bottle a 100% Cabernet Franc as part of their range, but in 2001, it was Le Macchiole that was the first to decide to put Cabernet Franc on the pedestal that the grape deserves. The wine is from selection of the family’s top parcels and made in a very classic, “Super Tuscan” style with extended aging in new oak barriques.

This is a wine that definitely benefits from cellaring, and when drunk on the younger side, like this 2018, decanting is certainly recommended to help soften and integrate some the wood tannin that is a bit more pronounced in its youth. With a little bit of oxygen, the wine began to unfurl with Mediterranean Cabernet Franc energy marrying fresh red and dark fruited notes (bramble, sour cherry compote, blackcurrant) with dry, garrigue-like herbal undertones (bay leaf, cypress, dried oregano and oregano oil), piquant Espelette pepper and robust baking spices. The palate is plush yet refined, with refreshing acidity and fine, velvety tannins that finish with a touch of chalky grip. Richly textured and round, with elegance and poise through the finish, this wine aristocratic and stately while being understated at the same time.

COR Wine Cellars, 2023 Cabernet Franc, Alder Ridge Vineyard, Horse Heaven Hills, Washington State, USA (13% abv., SRP $36USD): I don’t have the opportunity to taste as much Cabernet Franc from Washington State as I would like. So when the Washington State Wine Commission offered to send me some samples to try, I didn’t hesitate to accept their offer. COR Wine Cellars was established in 2004, and Cabernet Franc has been a staple of their range since the 2005 vintage. Tenuta di Trinoro-trained winemaker and owner Luke Bradford likes to showcase the grape in a cool climate style with a focus on purity of fruit and vibrant acidity. The 2023 is sourced from older vines (planted in 1997) from a cooler block of the Alder Ridge Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA in south-central Washington State.

Using a touch of whole bunches in the fermentation and seeing just 10 months of aging in neutral oak, the wine leads with pure, classic varietal character with fresh red berry fruits (raspberry, cherry, strawberry coulis), earth and herbal undertones of thyme and fragrant pine bows, mixing with very pretty florals (lilac, jasmine). The acidity is lively and crisp, and that crispness of the acid structure extends to the tannins, which have a very finely woven, percale cotton-like texture. This structure coupled with the fresh florals immediately brought to mind freshly cleaned bed sheets hanging out to dry on a cool, spring morning! The crisp-juicy palate is delightfully complemented by spicy notes of pink peppercorn, chilli flake, star anise and Ceylon cinnamon. Medium-bodied, balanced, playful and approachable from the first sip. As far as first impressions go, this is a winner, and I love that it has this well-intentioned, thoughtful side working in tandem with its playful energy.

Château de Villeneuve, 2021 Saumur-Champigny (13% abv., SRP $25USD/13 EUR): I did a bit of wine cellar organization this month (my kind of spring cleaning!) and realized that I had 5 bottles of the “domaine” cuvée from the 2021 vintage from Château de Villeneuve. Given that I have been loving the 2021s from across the Loire Valley at the moment, I figured it was worth tucking into a bottle to see where this wine was at. This is the estate’s “early-drinking” expression from a selection of their parcels in Souzay-Champigny and is vinified all in stainless steel. It typically represents about 50% of the domaine’s red wine production (60,000-70,000 bottles). With some additional time in the bottle, this cuvée is really leaning into Cabernet Franc’s earthy and herbal side, which I absolutely love. This wine is really intended to be drunk within five-ish years from vintage date, but structurally the wine can age much longer - it is really just a question of personal preference and how you prefer to enjoy your Cabernet Franc.

Much of the wine’s youthful, vibrant fruit has melted away to reveal a complex tapestry of earth and herbal notes, like rich potting soil, cedar leaves, beet root, za’atar, cool and lush evergreen forest, which are complemented by a bit of dried blueberry and cranberry mixing with violet potpourri, star anise and allspice. Bright, cleansing acidity with soft, silky tannins that finish with a touch chalkiness, the wine is suave, sophisticated with impressive impact and mid-palate weight from what was a cooler vintage for Loire Valley Cabernet Franc. Poised and timeless, I think this wine will continue to age gracefully for the medium term, and those earthier undertones will continue to become amplified with time. I enjoyed this with homemade duck confit and braised lentils, and it was a knockout pairing.

Tawse, 2013 Laundry Vineyard Cabernet Franc, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara, Ontario, Canada (13.5% abv., SRP $35CAD): There are a handful of “lighthouse” Cabernet Francs that have been extremely significant to me on this journey, and this wine is one of them. When I started my wine career in the Niagara Peninsula, the Laundry Vineyard Cabernet Franc from Tawse was a wine that delivered one of those “ah-ha” moments and helped to further embolden my passion for this grape. The late Paul Pender was one of Ontario’s great champions of Cabernet Franc, and he made upwards of 5 expressions of the variety each vintage. The wine comes from some of the oldest Cabernet Franc vines planted in Ontario (planted in the early 1980s, and the parcel is on very deep, iron oxide-rich sandy soils close to Lake Ontario’s shoreline.

Approaching a dozen years of bottle age, the wine is showing really well - a testament to Paul’s meticulous approach to crafting Cabernet Franc. Aromatic and spicy on the nose with fruit, earth and spice working in tandem, showcasing notes of cranberry, raspberry and a touch of sour cherry, complemented by heady herbals (dried rosemary, sage and fresh marjoram) and punchy, warming spices (lots of cinnamon, in ground and stick form, dried ginger, chilli flake). The palate shows additional layers of capsicum (roasted poblano pepper) and cured tobacco. Soft but cleansing acidity that shows nice persistence through the finish marries well with fine, linen-like tannins to create a round, elegant, well-defined structure that carries through to a long, spicy finish. Balanced, intentional, serious yet approachable. Today, Niagara-on-the-Lake’s Southbrook Vineyards vinifies the Laundry Vineyard Cabernet Franc, and Casey Hogan’s bottling from the 2020 vintage is exceptional, not to mention a superb value.

Domaine de la Chevalerie, 2019 Bourgueil “Noms d’Oiseaux” (13% abv., SRP $25USD/15 EUR): Perhaps my subconscious reached for this recently as an optimistic foreshadowing of the eventual return of songbirds and, along with them, more spring-like weather. And every time I drink a wine from Domaine de la Chevalerie, I am reminded that I am long overdue for a return visit to the domaine to taste with Emmanuel and Laurie - two of the kindest people in the industry you will ever meet. The Noms d’Oiseaux is part of the estate’s range of Cuvées d’Inspiration that come from a mix of parcels selected to deliver a certain “sentiment” in the glass. Noms d’Oiseaux is from deeper alluvial soils, a little lower on the slope in Restigné, known to give generous fruit and a deeply pleasurable wine.

Soft-spoken and understated on the nose, the wine leads with purity and clarity. Reserved and refined aromatics that balance fresh fruits and herbs. A mix of red and dark fruits (Bing cherry, black raspberry, and a touch of wild blueberry compote) are on equal footing with a mix of soft, wispy herbs (opal basil, tarragon, spearmint) and a pretty pink floral perfume. More layers emerge on the palate including lush forest floor, liquorice, cardamom, clove and a hint of Sichuan peppercorn. Lively, fresh and refreshing acidity weaves together effortlessly with silky, supple tannins. Round and plush while also being beautifully delineated, the wine is generous without being overbearing. It is absolutely scrumptious, moreish and welcoming with enough complexity to invite further introspective contemplation if the moment allows for it and the drinker is yearning for a deeper experience.

Thank you, as always, for reading and for your continued support. What wine do you reach for on that first, beautifully spring day? Let me know in the comments!

As history would have it, Mother Nature has delivered the Central Loire several strong “5” vintages in recent decades with 2015, 2005, 1995 and 1985 all being stellar years for Cabernet Franc from the region. And while it is still early, 2025 appears to be delivering on the promise of another great “5” vintage.

The 2025 Vintage in a Nutshell

The wet conditions that plagued the 2024 vintage continued into early 2025 with January through March seeing average to slightly above average rainfall. The winter was also a little colder than average and this delayed budbreak, which is always helpful when spring weather can be on the unpredictable side.

Thankfully the spring brought with it ideal conditions that continued from budbreak, through flowering and fruit set. Come late-May summer had seemingly arrived ahead of schedule with warmer, drier and sunnier than average conditions that continued more or less right through until harvest.

With the lower rainfall experienced in May and June, coupled with a heatwave at the end of June with several days with temperatures in excess of 40C, there were some initial concerns that vineyards might become drought stressed. But thanks to the wet conditions in 2024 and early 2025, ground water reserves were plentiful, and this, coupled with well-timed rains in July, virtually every vigneron I spoke to reported seeing no signs of drought stress in their Cabernet Franc vineyards. While the vines exhibited no signs of hydric stress, the lower rainfall did lead to slightly smaller than average berries in many vineyards and appellations.

While temperatures were warm through July and August, they were never hot nor were there prolonged periods of excessive heat, and the evening temperatures remained relatively cool, helping to slow down ripening and preserve acidities. By mid-August, many were hoping for a little bit of rain before harvest citing concerns that the dry conditions might stunt the phenolic maturities of the Cabernet Franc skins and seeds. As if right on cue, Mother Nature delivered a good douse of rain (between 35-50mm in most appellations) on August 29th, which not only “refreshed” the vines, but delivered a welcome measure of dilution ahead of harvest.

Early September brought a few well-timed showers, and many vignerons began picking their Cabernet Franc for red wines by mid-month (Sept 15 to 17th) concluding by about the 25th of September. Conditions during harvest were idyllic - a fitting close to what had been a near-flawless growing season.

Key Themes from the 2025 Vintage

In stark contrast to 2024, the 2025 vintage was, by all accounts, effortless.

While 2024 had vignerons dodging raindrops and running off their feet fighting mildew pressure left and right, most vignerons were actually able to enjoy their summer in 2025 - even if harvest's earlier than average arrival had a few of them cutting their August holidays short.

In the vineyard, Mother Nature delivered vignerons a storybook Cabernet Franc vintage in 2025, with clean, perfectly ripened fruit of impeccable quality from which they would craft their wines. And with each successive vintage of this calibre, the vignerons of the Loire have only grown more adept at rising to meet it with confidence and enthusiasm.

Uniform Quality Across Terroirs

While 2024 saw marked differences in quality from vineyard to vineyard within a given appellation, 2025 delivered rather homogeneous results. In appellations where there is a notable distinction between alluvial soils and the clay-limestone of the slopes, such as Chinon, Bourgueil and St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, in drier vintages like 2025 sometimes the alluvial soils can suffer from hydric stress, but most vignerons are reporting very consistent quality across these broad groups of soils. Benoît Amirault of Domaine Yannick Amirault noted that across his parcels in St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil and Bourgueil “very high and uniform quality” from his vines from the alluvial terrace as well as the slopes. In appellations defined by limestone terroirs such as Saumur-Champigny and Saumur, the self-regulating ability that tuffeau has to hold onto moisture and release it to the vine when needed meant vineyards showed no signs of drought stress allowing for even ripening across communes and parcels.

Lower than Average Yields

If there was any downside to 2025, as is so often the case when vintage conditions are superb, there weren’t as many grapes as folks would’ve liked! Part of the reason for the lower yields in 2025 was a direct result of the challenging summer conditions in 2024. With all the rain, overcast skies and cooler temperatures in June and July 2024, there was widespread low inflorescence in vineyards in the Central Loire resulting in fewer clusters per shoot going into the 2025 season. This, coupled with the drier conditions experienced during the growing season resulted in smaller berries and lower bunch weights, which meant that yields were down by about 20-25% across many appellations with most vignerons reporting final harvest yields of around 30 to 40hl/ha on average across their vineyards.

Ripeness in All the Right Places

With the smaller than average berry size and thus a higher skin to juice ratio, there are sometimes concerns of a “tannic” vintage for reds, where no amount of time in the bottle seems to properly resolve and smooth out the tannins. In the case of 2025, several vignerons have remarked to me that they are extremely pleased with the quality of their tannins, particularly compared to similarly warm and dry vintages. Thomas Pichet of Domaine du Petit Bondieu remarked on not seeing some of the “harder” tannins found in some cuvées from vintages like 2022 or 2019, where there were signs of drought stress in the vineyards. Thierry Germain of Domaine des Roches Neuves echoed the sentiment noting his 2025 Cabernet Francs are “showing the ripe tannin quality of 2023, but with more flesh (gras).”

While the vintage was warm, sunny and dry, the well-timed rainfall during the growing season and cool nighttime temperatures allowed sugars to ripen gradually resulting in greater alignment of physiological and phenolic maturity when it came time for harvest. This, coupled with the beneficial dilution of the late August rains, meant alcohols were moderate with most vignerons noting a range of 12.5%-13.5%. Balanced alcohols alongside high acidities and low to moderate pH levels suggest that the Cabernet Francs of 2025 should offer very good aging potential over the long term.

Lessons Learned from Similar Vintages

By the numbers, the conditions experienced in 2025 were similar to vintages like 2022, 2020 and 2018. As climate change appears to be favouring Loire Valley Cabernet Franc, this track record of warmer and drier vintages in recent years has given winemakers valuable insight into how to work with their parcels and fruit to achieve better balance in the finished wines.

Matthieu Baudry of Domaine Bernard Baudry noted from experiences in 2022 and 2018 that paying “extra close attention to the harvest date” was particularly crucial to ensuring optimal balance of fruit ripeness in 2025. Arnaud Lambert also suggested that a successful 2025 vintage would require a "mindful approach to macerations and extractions." In vintages of superior ripeness, after all, the quality of the fruit can seduce even the most attentive winemaker into over-extracting.

That winemakers are drawing on years of accumulated experience to navigate these questions speaks to how far the region has come. 2025 could be the vintage that helps define what is possible for Loire Valley Cabernet Franc.

The Outlook

Based on my initial tastings and conversations with winemakers in December and February, I believe that 2025 is shaping up to be a legendary vintage for Loire Valley Cabernet Franc, perhaps even the best we have seen this century.

While the majority of wines I have tasted are a ways off from being finished and in the bottle, the wines are showing remarkably pristine, pure fruit character, lush and balanced herbal undertones, vibrant and refreshing acidities, and assertive yet pliable tannin structure with plenty of flesh and enveloping sucrocity.

The early-drinking, fruit-forward styles from across all appellations show a charming, moreish fruit character and ripe, well-managed tannins offering immediate accessibility and pleasure. The vins de garde offer concentration and density without heaviness, with a firm yet refined structure, layered fruit complexity, and lively, persistent acidities. The top cuvées parcellaires from the region’s elite vignerons will no doubt age exceptionally well for decades to come.

While it is still early days to fully evaluate the vintage, 2025 has the potential to be not only an exceptional one, but a complete one. From wines crafted for early drinking to vins de garde built for the cellar, the vintage looks set to offer something for everyone, from the curious, modern wine consumer discovering Loire Valley Cabernet Franc for the first time to the committed enthusiast or professional who has been following the region for years.

It seems Thomas Gambier's quiet confidence in the tuffeau cave has proven well-founded - the '5' has delivered. From a near-perfect growing season to wines of exceptional balance and promise, 2025 has all the hallmarks of the great vintages that preceded it, and the potential to set a new standard for greatness for Loire Valley Cabernet Franc.

Launched in late 2024, Cab Franc Forward is the brainchild of Max Rohn of Wölffer Estate and Gabriella Macari of Macari Vineyards, who set out to increase awareness of the quality and distinctiveness of Cabernet Franc from New York State. Partnering with six other founding wineries from across Long Island, the Finger Lakes and the Hudson Valley, the group’s promotional efforts over the last 15 months has garnered New York Cabernet Franc acclaim from influential journalists, top sommeliers and international wine critics, and has charted a course towards Cabernet Franc being the grape that could become synonymous with New York State on the global wine stage.

One State, One Grape

The concept of a signature grape is not new in the wine world. The grapes seen now as emblematic of specific European wine regions, whether that be Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Burgundy or Grüner Veltliner from Austria, achieved such status thanks to centuries of tradition and natural selection. Outside of Europe, such a concept is much more complex, with consumer preferences and trends often getting more weight in the decision making process as to what varieties are planted where over the suitability of a grape for a given terroir.

A reality that makes the decision to elevate Cabernet Franc as the signature grape for the entire state of New York so significant. While Cabernet Franc is one of the world’s single most important wine grapes, its global plantings and status are dwarfed by its progeny Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, not to mention it competes against more “fashionable” grapes like Syrah and Pinot Noir for shelf space and attention. Cabernet Franc is not the “obvious” choice for any winery or wine region. And yet this initiative on the part of the collective group of Cab Franc Forward member wineries and the state’s lawmakers makes New York State the first region of this scale outside of Europe to officially fly the Cabernet Franc flag high and proud.

What makes New York State uniquely positioned to be the premier US wine growing for the grape? According to Max Rohn, “Cabernet Franc is particularly well suited to New York’s climate… its versatility allows it to thrive across the state… producing a wide range of compelling styles shaped by site, season, and wine growing decisions.”

Having closely followed the region and regularly tasted examples of Cabernet Franc from across the state, I believe the grape’s versatility and adaptability could be New York’s greatest asset as it sets its sights on telling the story of New York Cabernet Franc in its own backyard and beyond.

Character, Creativity, Confidence

While Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir each have a generally accepted “style” - that is to say that the wine drinking public already has an idea in their mind of what will be in the bottle when they buy an example of either grape at a shop or a restaurant - Cabernet Franc, and single varietal Cabernet Franc more specifically, leaves the door open for interpretation. While this does pose its own challenges, it is also an opportunity for regions with cooler, more variable climates and vintage conditions, as has been demonstrated in the grape’s ancestral home and the only region in the world with a centuries-old tradition of producing single varietal Cabernet Franc, the Loire Valley.

In places where vintage variation is more pronounced, Cabernet Franc’s adaptability gives wine growers the opportunity to lean into what Mother Nature gives and produce wines that honestly reflect place and time. In warmer, sunnier years, Cabernet Franc can be more ripe, fruit-forward and plush, in cooler years, it can lead with verve, delicacy and perfume, not to mention the grape’s ability to produce expressive rosés and even whites, both in still and sparkling form. Across vintages and regions, New York State has the chance to shine a light on the diverse palette of expressions the grape is capable of.

“Cabernet Franc is malleable in all of the best ways. In the vineyard, it's adaptable. In the cellar, it's versatile. And, in the glass, Cabernet Franc seems quite limitless,” says Matthew Spaccarelli of Fjord Vineyards in the Hudson River Region, which is the smallest of the three principal regions where the grape is grown in the state. And what the Hudson River Region lacks in size of Cabernet Franc plantings (about 35 acres at last count), it makes up for it with commitment and enthusiasm, being the first region in the state to recognize Cabernet Franc as a star variety with founding of the Hudson Valley Cabernet Franc Coalition in 2016. “This malleability, combined with New York's cool climate and distinct regional differences,” Spaccarelli added “creates an opportunity for growers and winemakers alike to craft wines of distinction without compromising quality or varietal correctness.”

This “varietal correctness” in Cabernet Franc is somewhat of a polarizing topic. Part of what makes Cabernet Franc Cabernet Franc is its herbaceousness. In the Loire, this character trait is referred to as the grape’s “noble” herbaceous undertones, suggesting that these notes are part of the grape’s identity and should be celebrated. However, this herbal or “green” side of Cabernet Franc needs to be carefully managed in the vineyard and cellar in order to get the best kind of green expression in your Cabernet Franc. “New York’s strong concentration of small, quality-focused wineries also plays an important role,” Max Rohn noted “enabling hands-on vineyard management and careful attention to the farming decisions that keep green flavors in balance.” This small scale, attentive approach to viticulture has and will only continue to benefit the state’s producers over the long term. In my tastings over the years and from what was on offer at the Grand Tasting in February, it is clear that wine growers are becoming more attuned to the best ways to capture Cabernet Franc’s varietal character and showcase it in a way that feels authentic and distinct to the place and vintage.

Share

“In New York’s cool climate, the Cab Francs can be lower in alcohol and more food friendly. At the same time they offer more fruit character than some of the more traditional old world Cab Francs,” notes Bruce Murray of Boundary Breaks in the Finger Lakes, which, alongside Long Island, represent the majority of the state’s 638 acres of Cabernet Franc. While the Finger Lakes, Long Island and the Hudson Valley all experience very different growing seasons, the cool to moderate conditions that unify the state’s growing regions allow Cabernet Franc to achieve gradual and balanced ripening, while retaining lively acidities and restrained alcohols, regardless of vintage. This gives winemakers plenty of runway to craft wines that are true to the grape and reflect the unique attributes of their region, while also appealing to a diverse range of palates and preferences.

“We are in a discovery phase where many consumers are experiencing New York Cab Francs for the first time, and it is a pleasant surprise,” adds Murray. Whether they be juicy, unoaked styles, like Lamoreaux Landing’s 2023 “T23” Cabernet Franc, the Living Roots 2023 Cabernet Franc, Fjord Vineyards’s 2024 Estate Cabernet Franc, and Macari’s 2024 “Lifeforce” Cabernet Franc, or the plush, round examples such as Sheldrake Point’s 2023 Estate Cabernet Franc, the 2022 Cabernet Franc from Sannino Vineyard, Paumanok Vineyards’s 2023 Cabernet Franc, and Milea Estate’s 2023 Reserve Cabernet Franc, or something in between, New York’s winemakers are beginning to more confidently express the diversity and complexity that Cabernet Franc is capable of, all while honouring the grape’s fruit aromatics, varietal character, bright acidity, and elegant structure.

And when confidence is combined with patience, curiosity and intention, it is possible to craft Cabernet Francs that are deep and even personal reflections of grape, place and time, such as the Hermann J Wiemer 2023 Magdalena Vineyard Cabernet Franc, the single vineyard range from Forge Cellars, Damiani’s 2024 Valois Vineyard Cabernet Franc, and the Boundary Breaks 2024 Cabernet Franc Reserve. It is examples like these and other top expressions from across the state that show the potential of this grape when it is planted in the right place and handled with care and attention.

Focus for the Future

When wine growers see a glimpse of Cabernet Franc’s potential reflected in their own wines and the wines of their neighbours and colleagues, this is where the power of a collective focus on a single grape can truly benefit wine producers across New York State and make initiatives like Cab Franc Forward so critical to the grape’s success.

Events like the Grand Tasting not only give professionals and consumers a chance to discover the diversity of New York Cabernet Franc, but it also gives the winemakers and winery representatives themselves a chance to taste and discuss each other’s wines. An opportunity that invites conversation, collaboration and cooperation across the industry that can positively impact all aspects of what goes into making a bottle of wine, from vineyard, to cellar, to marketing and sales.

By elevating Cabernet Franc to “signature” status, New York State wineries are signalling to the world a belief in the grape, their terroirs, and their ability to produce wines of genuine distinction that communicate a sense of place. It is a declaration of confidence, but not insularity. For all its versatility and potential, Cabernet Franc rewards those who are patient, attentive and honest. The best producers understand that developing an intimate knowledge of their vineyards’ soils and microclimates is equally as important as regularly tasting and learning from the great expressions of the grape grown elsewhere in the world, from the Loire Valley to Italy, South Africa to Argentina, and beyond. Progress does not happen in a vacuum, and the winemakers who will define New York Cabernet Franc for decades to come will be those who are as curious about the world as they are rooted in their own backyard.

Giving Cabernet Franc star status is, of course, just the first step on a long journey. Building a regional identity around a single grape takes time, sustained effort, and the collective will that Cab Franc Forward has already begun to demonstrate. But the foundation on which the industry can continue to build is strong, and the wines, whether they are companionable everyday drinkers or single vineyard statements, they are making the argument that the best is yet to come.

What makes this moment truly exciting is not just the quality of the wines, but the enthusiasm and commitment behind them. Winemakers from across the Finger Lakes, Long Island, and the Hudson Valley are tasting each other’s work, sharing knowledge, and aligning around a shared purpose without sacrificing their individual voices. That balance of unity and diversity, of focus and freedom may ultimately be what defines New York Cabernet Franc.

In nearly every wine region outside of the Loire Valley, Cabernet Franc plays a supporting role and rarely the lead, but New York may prove to be exactly the stage Cabernet Franc has been waiting for. And for New York, Cabernet Franc may be exactly the grape it has been waiting for, too.

Cab Franc Forward 2026 Grand Tasting Participants

Finger Lakes: Apollo’s Praise, Atwater Vineyards, Boundary Breaks*, Damiani Wine Cellars, Dr. Konstantin Frank*, Forge Cellars, Hermann J. Wiemer*, Heron Hill Winery, Keuka Spring Vineyards, Lakewood Vineyards, Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars, Living Roots Wine & Co., Neverstill Wines, Ravines Wine Cellars, Red Newt Cellars, Ryan William Vineyard, Sheldrake Point Winery, Wagner Vineyards Estate Winery

Long Island: Clovis Point Vineyard and Winery, HORSES by Macari Vineyards, Lenz Winery, Macari Vineyards*, McCall Wines, One Woman Winery, Paumanok Vineyards*, Red Hook Winery, RGNY, Roanoke Vineyards, Sannino Vineyard, Suhru & Lieb Vineyards, Wölffer Estate Vineyard*

Hudson River Region: Airy Acres Vineyard, Benmarl Winery, Ev&Em Vineyards, Fjord Vineyards*, Milea Estate Vineyard*, Millbrook Vineyards & Winery, Rosina’s Winery, Whitecliff Vineyard

Niagara Escarpment: Arrowhead Spring Vineyards

*Cab Franc Forward Founding Wineries

Explore More New York Cabernet Franc

Here is a selection of my coverage of Cabernet Franc from New York State, in both video and written format.

Hermann J. Wiemer, 2019 Magdalena Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Finger Lakes

Forge Cellars, 2019 Willow Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Finger Lakes

Bedell Cellars, 2019 Cabernet Franc, North Fork of Long Island, Long Island

Heron Hill, 2020 Ingle Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Finger Lakes

Macari, 2021 'Lifeforce' Cabernet Franc, North Fork of Long Island

Boundary Breaks, 2023 Cabernet Franc, Finger Lakes

Travel and accommodations to attend the Cab Franc Forward 2026 Grand Tasting was provided by Cab Franc Forward.

On February 3rd, forty New York State wineries gathered to showcase over 250 wines from three principle regions as part of the Cab Franc Forward Grand Tasting. I am currently finishing a more detailed article on the event with some of my highlights and observations, but there was an impressive number of really delicious wines on offer that day. I focused my tasting efforts on producers that were new to me, but even there I didn’t see everyone I wanted. Styles ran the gamut from sparkling (blanc de noir and rosé), still rosé and reds of all shapes and sizes. I finally got to taste Sheldrake Point’s 2023 Beta Series Blanc de Cabernet Franc (11.2% abv., SRP $45USD) traditional method sparkling wine. Since its release, I’ve had a number of people tell me it was a must try, and it did not disappoint. Delightfully fresh, floral with lovely varietal character and a soft, silky mousse, it was very well made and styled in a manner that let the Cabernet Franc character shine through. Another Finger Lakes producer that was new to me but I have heard great things about time and time again was Damiani Wine Cellar. I tasted with viticulturalist Phil Davis, who’s tireless work in the vineyard to get Cabernet Franc “right” clearly showed through in their 2024 Barrel Select Cabernet Franc (13.2% abv.) and 2024 Valois Vineyard Cabernet Franc (14.1% abv.), both of which have yet to be released. After my brief time in Long Island last June, I was keen to discover some other producers from across the region, and I was so pleased to try the Sannino Vineyards 2022 Cabernet Franc (13.5% abv., SRP $35USD) and also the Red Hook Winery 2019 Cabernet Franc (14.0% abv., SRP $35USD) (sourced from the Jamesport Vineyard on the North Fork), both leaned in a Bordeaux-inspired style with inviting, plush fruit, well-integrated oak, varietal complexity and elegant tannin structure.

A handful of days after my time in New York, I was off to Wine Paris for the first time. Having previously attended ProWein and Vinexpo (the precursor to Wine Paris) many times throughout my career, I was really impressed with the organization and compactness of Wine Paris. My objective? Simply put, it was to meet and taste with as many Cabernet Franc producers as possible from all corners of the globe. I didn’t get through all of my tasting wish list, but I didn’t do too badly. And long story short, there is a lot of exciting Cabernet Franc being made in the world right now!

South America might be THE continent to watch outside of Europe for the variety at the moment, where there is not only momentum in terms of plantings, but also wines that are being made thoughtfully and with a definite sense of place. I tasted several examples from Uruguay, Chile and Argentina (sadly, I didn’t come across any at the Wines of Brazil stand), and very good wines are being made across all styles and price points.

Uruguay’s plantings of Cabernet Franc are far less than Chile and Argentina, but the wines I tasted highlighted the cooler, more maritime influenced climate, and offer a bridge between a classic “European” expression of the variety and a more fruit-forward example we might typically associate with “New World” wines. The Braccobosca 2024 Gran Ombú Cabernet Franc (14.0% abv., SRP $78USD) from Canelones is consistently one of the country’s top examples of the variety and one of my favourites from what I tasted from Uruguay. (I did a tasting video on the 2019 if you’re interested in learning more about this wine.) I also enjoyed the Viña Progreso 2024 Overground Cabernet Franc (14.0% abv., SRP $18-20USD), which is also from the region of Canelones.

From Chile, I have observed that Cabernet Franc as a star variety isn’t being embraced everywhere by everyone, rather there are “specialists” that have found over time that the grape has adapted well to their unique terroir and are showcasing it more prominently in their range. A perfect example would be icon winery Viña VIK in the Millahue sub-region of Cachapoal. In speaking with CEO Gastón Williams at Wine Paris, he shared with me that they have seen how well Cabernet Franc is thriving in their sites and have since transitioned their top flagship red (which retails for around $175USD) from being a Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant blend to Cabernet Franc-dominated as of the 2021 vintage. Both the 2021 VIK (14.5% abv., SRP $160USD) and 2022 VIK (14.5% abv., SRP $175USD), with 77% and 79% Cabernet Franc in the blend, respectively, showed impressive concentration and depth, with an elegant, restrained structure. Their 2023 “A” Cabernet Franc (14.0% abv., SRP $30USD) was also beautifully done.

The story of Cabernet Franc in Argentina is being written as we speak and it is a fascinating one to watch. Plantings of the variety are increasing exponentially and when walking the aisles of Wine Paris, nearly EVERY SINGLE producer from Mendoza present at the fair had at least ONE single varietal Cabernet Franc on offer. There was so much Argentinian Cabernet Franc available to taste, it was impossible to taste it all. Some highlights included the wines from Fabre-Montmayou, both their 2024 Reserva Cabernet Franc (14.0% abv., $15USD) from Luján de Cuyo and the Alta-Yarí 2024 Reserva Cabernet Franc (14.5% abv., SRP $22USD) from Gualtallary; I loved what I tasted from Casarena in Luján de Cuyo, both their 2024 Estate Cabernet Franc (13.5% abv., SRP $18USD) and the 2022 Lauren Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc (14.3% abv., SRP $35USD); and also from Luján de Cuyo, but more specifically the sub-region of Agrelo, Pulenta’s 2023 Cabernet Franc (14.0% abv., SRP $25USD) and 2021 Gran Cabernet Franc (14.0% abv., SRP $50USD) were both superb. The enthusiasm for Cabernet Franc has even inspired a new three-wine range from Corbeau Wines as part of their “Mad Bird” brand, which features a blanc de noir, rosé and red Cabernet Franc, all from the same parcel of vines planted in Maipú in Eastern Mendoza, the only thing that changes is the harvest date and the approach to winemaking. What impressed me the most about what I tasted from Argentina is the majority of wines are unoaked or vinified and aged in neutral vessels, and even at the super premium level, the use of new oak tends to be more restrained making an effort to highlight the fruit and character of the grape. From what I’ve tasted, the quality of Argentinian Cabernet Franc is very good and we’re probably just seeing the tip of the iceberg of what the country is capable of with the variety.

From North America, there was not as much Cabernet Franc being presented as I had hoped. (The exception being the New York Wines stand, which I passed by just to say a quick hello!) Most of the producers from California were presenting the benchmark grapes and wines from their respective regions, though I was delighted to taste the Trois Noix 2022 Cabernet Franc (14.0% abv., SRP $90USD) from Napa Valley made by founder/winemaker Jaime Araujo, which offered the best of what I would call Napa “typicity” and Cabernet Franc character. Two other Cabernet Francs of note came from the Pacific Northwest. From Two Mountain, who are based in the Rattlesnake Hills AVA of the Yakima Valley, an emerging AVA for Cabernet Franc, their 2023 Cabernet Franc Reserve (14.0% abv., SRP $30USD) was very nicely done. I also had the pleasure of meeting Bree Stock MW of Limited Addition Wines in the Willamette Valley, Oregon, who is so passionate about Cabernet Franc that she is making it a focus of her winemaking project producing several different expressions of the variety each vintage. She was pouring her 2023 Cabernet Franc Field Blend (13.0% abv., SRP $36USD), which was a great introduction to her work with Cabernet Franc, and I hope to do a proper feature on Bree and the project in the coming months.

From elsewhere around Europe, there was no denying the excitement around Cabernet Franc in Tuscany. Several producers from Bolgheri and the surrounding Tuscan hillsides were pouring a 100% Cabernet Franc, many of which were recent additions to a winery’s range, having made the decision to bottle a single varietal Cabernet Franc just in the last five or so years. The best examples offered a Goldilocks approach to capturing the ripe and sunny character of the fruit, letting Cabernet Franc’s varietal character show through in a way that showcased a sense of place, all while having balanced alcohols and a restrained approach to extractions and aging in oak. A couple favourites included the inaugural offering from Castello di Bolgheri, the 2021 Bolgheri Superiore “Barnica” (14.5% abv., SRP 200EUR) and also from around the hillsides of Pisa the Podere la Chiesa 2022 IGT Toscana Cabernet Franc (14.5% abv.). From Northeast Italy, Russiz Superiore continues to excel with the grape in the hillsides of Collio, and their 2022 Cabernet Franc DOC Collio (13.0% abv., $38USD/27EUR) is fragrant, spicy and herbal with plush, juicy fruit and bright acidity.

More and more single varietal Cabernet Franc is being produced in Bordeaux, and there was probably much more on offer at Wine Paris than I was able to taste, but I did have a few on my radar that I wanted to try. From Famille Bouyer in the commune of St-Christophe-des-Bardes in St-Emilion, their La Cure 2023 St-Emilion Grand Cru “Bouchet” (14.5% abv., SRP 40EUR) delivered lush, enveloping fruit, classic undertones of cedar, tobacco and violets, with velour-like tannins and focused acidity. From the satellite appellation of Lussac St-Emilion, Audren Dubreuil of Château de la Grenière first produced their “Franc Pour Cent” in 2021 as a way of highlighting and honouring the family’s small parcel of 100-year-old Cabernet Franc vines. The 2024 Lussac St-Emilion “Franc Pour Cent” (13.5% abv., SRP 22EUR) was absolutely delicious with a gorgeous floral and herbal perfume, taut, velvety tannins, and a beautifully refined structure. I also had a terrific tasting with Louis Gadais, Maître de Chai at Château Jean Faure in St-Emilion, who’s Grand Vin is one of a handful of St-Emilion Grand Cru wines that has historically always been Cabernet Franc-dominant. These wines will be featured in a more in-depth article in the coming months. Finally, I was thrilled to discover the Cabernet Franc-focused range from Jurançon-native and up-and-coming Bordeaux vigneron Hugues Laborde, who is harnessing his passion for Cabernet Franc to showcase the diversity of terroirs and soils across the regions of Entre-Deux-Mers, Fronsac and St-Emilion. I am also working on an in-depth feature on these wines to shine a light on Hugues’s story and work with the grape.

As I am in the Loire regularly throughout the year, I didn’t taste much from the region at Wine Paris, though I did have an opportunity to attend a dinner hosted by Chinon’s Domaine de la Chapelle at Yannick Alléno’s restaurant at the Pavillon Ledoyen. The dinner featured the estate’s current offering of whites and reds, include the 2024 Chinon “Les Joueurs” (12.0% abv., SRP 16EUR), 2023 Chinon “Les Lutteurs” (12.0% abv., SRP 24EUR) and 2023 Chinon “Les Bâtisseurs” (12.5% abv., SRP 40EUR). As the domaine has transitioned under new owner and real estate developer Laurent Dumas, and also recently bringing on Romain Guiberteau as consultant, this is a domaine to watch in the years ahead. I had a more thorough visit of the domaine with Chef de Culture Cédric Monroy planned for the following week, but sadly due to excessive rains across the Loire, the Vienne overflowed its banks and the domaine was inaccessible the day of my scheduled visit, so a more in-depth profile on this estate will be prioritized for when I get back to the Loire later in the spring. (I did a video feature on the domaine and their 2023 Les Lutteurs last year for those that are eager to learn more.)

Following Wine Paris, I was in the Loire for a little over a week and had several tasting visits with producers from across the region, including Le Petit Saint Vincent and Château de Villeneuve in Saumur-Champigny, Domaine Dozon in Chinon, Le Clos du Vigneau/Domaine des Vallettes in St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, and Maison Audebert et Fils, Domaine Stéphane Guion and Lamé-Delisle-Boucard in Bourgueil. I’ll be writing profiles on the domaines and wines in the coming months, but you can check out my Instagram highlights for a preview in the meantime. On my last two trips to the Loire, I have also tasted a number of 2025s from producers across the region, so I am writing a little “preview” of the vintage at the moment as well.

A couple other wines of note I enjoyed this month include Domaine Moly’s 2024 Saumur-Champigny “Les Sybarites” (12% abv., SRP $28USD/20EUR), which I first tasted with Etienne at the domaine and then later in the week over a few days. Newly released, the 2024 does benefit from a bit of oxygen to let it open up, but when it does, this wine is a knockout. Showing impressive concentration for the vintage, it leads with bright pink and purple florals and succulent fruit, continuing with firm, chalky tannins and plenty of stuffing, and concluding with a nervy, herbal, piquant finish. A touch austere now, it will reward with time in the cellar, but what a beautifully made wine, particularly from a challenging vintage like 2024. It proves the old adage that the combination of vigneron(ne) and vineyard will trump vintage more times than not. (I wrote a feature on Domaine Moly in May 2024 if you’re interested to learn more about the domaine.)

From another up-and-coming vigneron, Aurélien Revillot’s 2023 Bourgueil “Sur les Hauts” (12.5% abv., SRP $25USD/20EUR), which I picked up at Enfin du Vin, a terrific caviste in Candes-St-Martin. From parcels on the slopes predominantly in Benais in Bourgueil, the 2023 is absolutely delicious right from the pop of the cork - pure, fragrant with just the right amount of Cabernet Franc earthiness. Lush blue and red fruits, with notes of tarragon, basil, rich humus, pink peppercorn and cardamon, the silky tannins are beautifully enveloped by succulent fruits, finishing with persistent, mouthwatering acidity. Aurélien’s approach with Cabernet Franc leans a touch more modern with polish and refinement without feeling pretentious or too intricate, and the 2023 Sur les Hauts highlights this balance of precision and approachability. (You can learn more about Aurélien’s story and the 2018 vintage of this wine here.)

Phew! I don’t know about you, but I’m thirsty! That’s it for February. Thank you so much for reading and your continued support. As you’ve read, there is a lot in the pipeline, so I’ll be gracing your inbox again soon.

M & S Bouchet, 2010 “Le Sylphe” Cabernet Franc, Vin de France (Montreuil-Bellay) (13.5% abv., SRP $25USD/15.00EUR): This domaine is likely a new discovery for some. Historically known as Domaine de Château Gaillard, Matthieu and Sylvanie Bouchet took up reigns at the family domaine in 1990 following the retirement of Matthieu’s father François. François Bouchet is widely regarded as one of the fathers of biodynamic viticulture in France having started farming biodynamically at his own domaine in 1962 and going on to consult for the likes of Domanie Leflaive, Domaine Leroy and others. Matthieu and Sylvanie still farm biodynamically today and produce a mere 2000 cases annually from their old vines (averaging 40 to 80 years old). The 2010 “Le Sylphe” is at a beautiful place in its evolution. It unfurls with a mix of red and dark fruits (dried blueberry, cranberry-raspberry fruit leather), along with notes of lush evergreen, juniper, bay leaf and star anise. Fine, enveloping tannins highlight the evolving layers of potting soil, dried leaves, earl grey tea, green peppercorn and sumac. A generous and sultry mid-palate leads to an ethereal, feather-weight finish that is long on flavour and complexity. A graceful, contemplative wine, ideal for a solo New Year’s Eve dinner (speaking from experience!) accompanied by duck confit and gratin dauphinois.

Yannick Amirault, 2024 Bourgeuil “Côte 50” (12.5% abv., SRP $30USD/14.00EUR): I have written about the Côte 50 on a number of occasions here and it is a wine I revisit as often as I can. I visited with Benoît Amirault in December where we tasted some of the 2025s from tank, but also their current releases, including this 2024, the first of two wines from this challenging vintage that are currently available at the domaine. Back on home soil, I spent a bit more time with this wine and was very excited to follow its evolution over a few days. The wine opens with absolutely exquisite aromatics: heady notes of purple flowers, bergamot and pink peppercorns mixing with tiny sweet-tart forest berries. On opening, the palate was a touch austere, angular and little out of sync, but a bit of patience is this wine’s best friend. On the second day, those hard edges softened to reveal a fresh, delicately structured palate with fine, chalky tannins and bright, zippy acidity. Light bodied and refined with a snappy, raspberry-flecked middle palate and a peppery finish, I think this wine will be even better in about three to six months time.

Domaine Guiberteau, 2019 Saumur Rouge ‘Les Chapaudaises’ (13.0% abv., SRP $65USD/40.00EUR: I have a decent amount of Cabernet Franc from Domaine Guiberteau in my cellar, and opening a bottle is always an exercise in patience, particularly for his two top cuvée parcellaires, namely Les Chapaudaises from the commune of Épieds (formerly Bizay) and Les Arboises from Brézé. I followed this wine over four days, which I appreciate isn’t a practical exercise should you come across it in a restaurant, but if you have this in your cellar, the lesson here is time is on your side. Upon opening, the wine was relatively closed on the nose and palate, showing densely packed and concentrated notes of ripe dark fruit and earth, pronounced acidity and firm, taut tannins that lacked integration with the wine’s body and aromatics. By day four, the wine really showed its true colours. Expressive, with lifted florals (lavender, violets), vivid earthy and herbal undertones (dried rosemary, bay leaf, cedar wood and leaves), and fragrant spicy notes (sandalwood, cardamom, dried ginger). Structurally, the wine became beautifully knit together and more harmonious on the palate. The tannins became elongated and silky, the acidity softened, yet remained persistent through the finish, providing focus, tension, and digeste drinkability. This is truly an exceptional wine. If you have this in your cellar, consider holding it for at least another five years. I think this will start to hit its stride in 2031-2032.

Domaine de Nerleux, 2022 Saumur-Champigny (13.5% abv., SRP 11.80EUR): From a selection of the estate’s parcels in the commune of Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg in southern Saumur-Champigny, this 2022 from vigneronne Amélie Neau and her team is a textbook, early-drinking expression from Saumur-Champigny. The 2022 vintage, while exceptional in its own right, certainly tested a vigneron’s ability to produce fruity, easy-drinking reds. The vintage provided ideal conditions for rich, structured concentrated reds, so to craft an “entry-level” wine that is approachable and “digeste” required a careful, gentler hand. Domaine de Nerleux knocked it out of the park here. Delightfully fresh and lifted, with a balanced underpinning of earth (violets, thyme, mint, cedar leaves) and piquant, peppery spice (pink and green peppercorns), the palate is plush and juicy, with refreshing acidity and supple, velvety tannins. With a bit more stuffing and substance to take it beyond being a simple quaffer, it shows the vintage beautifully but with a restrained, elegant hand. Approachable and friendly, this wine is such a joy to drink and over-delivers for the price point.

Arnaud Lambert, 2022 Saumur Rouge “Mazurique” (14.0% abv., SRP $25USD/15.00EUR): This is another wine I have tasted and re-tasted on a number of occasions, and it is always interesting to see where a particular vintage is at in terms of its evolution. The wine is coming from a cooler, clay-rich lieu-dit in southern Brézé and I find that even in a warm, sunny, dry vintage like 2022, this wine always needs a little bit longer to come around (particularly compared to Arnaud’s Saumur-Champigny “Terres Rouges” from the same vintage). A touch reductive on opening, with a bit of oxygen, the wine shows plush, “sunny” ripe blue and red fruits with a distinctive cool climate, foresty undertone, reminiscent of spruce and fir. Densely packed and concentrated on the palate, with cleansing acidity and firm, luxe, crushed velvet tannins, the wine is layered, richly spiced (allspice, nutmeg, clove) and has a pronounced “clayey” mineral edge. Full bodied and round, with an enveloping mid-palate experience, this wine punches well above its weight class, and while it is one of the domaine’s “early-drinking” expressions, this wine has so much concentration and depth, it will definitely continue to improve with time in the bottle.

Catena Zapata, 2023 San Carlos Appellation Cabernet Franc (13.5% abv., SRP $22USD): The Uco Valley is emerging as the epicentre for growth in Cabernet Franc plantings in Argentina. The region of San Carlos is the southernmost sub-region in the Uco Valley and benefits from being one of the coolest in Mendoza, as well as boasting a bevy of “crus” including Paraje Altamira and Pampa El Cepillo. This wine is from a selection of parcels from across San Carlos at an average elevation of 1090m above sea level, and sees a rather classic approach to red wine vinification with 12 months in French oak barrels (30-40% new). Expressive, fragrant and spicy, the nose and palate show balanced aromatics with all the components (fruit, earth, spice, wood) working in tandem. Ripe, fleshy red fruits, notes of Mediterranean herbs and eucalyptus, rose, and spicy undertones of black pepper, crushed red chilli flakes and cinnamon. The palate shows the markers of the vintage, with elevated, mouthwatering acidity and fine, firm chalky tannins that combine with the fruit to create a wine that has flesh and concentration without being bulky, while also being well-structured with drinkability, pliability and ease. This really feels like a real “food” wine to me, so I would consider pairing this with a classic peppercorn-rubbed grilled steak or a black pepper beef stir fry with peppers and cabbage.

Finally, being a recap of January and all, I can’t pass up the opportunity to shine a light on Cabernet Franc Icewine. If you are not familiar with this particular style of Cabernet Franc, it is worth seeking out. I put together a short video giving an overview of this style, how it is made and how best to enjoy it. An absolute delight for those who love naturally sweet dessert wines.

Now, looking ahead to February, I have a bit of travel lined up, including a brief visit to New York City for the Cab Franc Forward Grand Tasting on Tuesday and then off to France for Wine Paris and some visits in the Loire. No doubt there will be lots of interesting highlights to talk about in a months time!

As always, thank you for reading, and for all of your continued support.

Established in 2000, Stratus Vineyards ushered in a new era of grape growing and winemaking in Ontario producing super premium wines with a strong focus on innovation and sustainability. Leaning on the European tradition of assemblage, founding winemaker and Loire-native J-L Groux anchored the Stratus portfolio of wines with their flagship Stratus Red and Stratus White, which are ever-changing blends crafted from the diverse palette of ten red grapes and six white planted at the estate. While the winery does have a few more unusual varieties (for Ontario) planted, like Tempranillo, Sangiovese and Tannat, about 18 of their 55 acres (a third!) are planted with Cabernet Franc.

Since the beginning, the winemaking philosophy for Stratus’s red wines has reflected the classic, Bordelais approach with a focus on extended macerations and longer aging in French oak barriques (225L and 228L) with a higher percentage of new oak. With J-L now semi-retired and winemaker Dean Stoyka at the helm since 2022, Dean has begun to introduce some new techniques and vessels (including amphorae, concrete eggs, 500L demi-muids, and a few larger Stockinger foudres) into the mix to creatively expand the Stratus offering, which I think has only benefited their work with Cabernet Franc.

At the core of their philosophy with respect to Cabernet Franc is meticulous work in the vineyard, including rigorous leaf removal and canopy management to ensure maximum sun exposure to help with ripening, and also green harvesting when necessary to balance yields. Stratus also prefers to give their Cabernet Franc very long hang-time, typically waiting to harvest until after the first frost well into November making them often one of the last wineries in the region to start harvesting their reds. The result is a range of Cabernet Francs that maximize ripeness and concentration, while still remaining true to the grape’s identity and feeling (to me, at least) unmistakably “Niagara” in the glass. “Powerful yet elegant” is how Dean described Cabernet Franc for him as we concluded our tasting, and I think that perfectly articulates the estate’s range of Cabernet Francs. Generous and gregarious, the Stratus Cabernet Francs showcase polished, modern styling with impressive depth and concentration that will reward with cellaring.

2024 Cabernet Franc Rosé, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake (12.5% abv., $32CAD): Consistently one of my favourite Cabernet Franc rosés being made in the Niagara Peninsula, the 2024 from Stratus takes a slightly different approach in the cellar than previous vintages using two different techniques: 50% rosé by saignée and 50% direct press. The resulting wine might be my favourite iteration of the Stratus Rosé to date. Fresh and refreshing, with a savoury and salty mid-palate that continues through the finish. Layered with notes of lavender, tarragon and thyme, the wine is fleshy and “gourmand,” that is to say it is a very gastronomic style of rosé that has just the right amount of structure to take it beyond being a quaffable, patio sipper to something that would work well on the table. Serious stuff.

2022 Cabernet Franc, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake (14.3% abv., $49CAD): The Stratus “Black Label” range of red wines leans on the traditional Bordeaux-inspired styling that J-L Groux became known for when Stratus marched onto the scene in 2000. Since Dean has taken over in the cellar, the proportion of new oak, particularly in the Cabernet Franc, has decreased significantly, and the 2022 only sees 7% new oak during its 553 days of oak élevage. Ripe and plush with a mix of black raspberry and red cherry fruit, with notes of mint, violets, tobacco and peppery spice. Concentrated with fine, firm, velvety tannins, and a long refreshing finish. Pure, with superb depth and balance. Classic and classy. Like so many of Stratus’s reds, this is a wine that will age gracefully, but the generosity of fruit and restrained structure provides pleasure in the short term.

2022 Cabernet Franc “Escarpment,” VQA Niagara Escarpment (14.1% abv., Licensee only): While only available to licensees (ie. restaurants, bottle shops), this was a fascinating wine to taste in this line-up and I’m so pleased Dean included it in the tasting. Sourced from the Wismer Vineyard on the Niagara Escarpment, this wine was essentially made the exact same way as the classic Stratus “Black Label” allowing the “terroir” to be on full display - and the two 2022s couldn’t be more different. The “Escarpment” Cabernet Franc leads with bright, ripe red fruit, soft sage, dusty herbs, and floral notes of rose and peony. Succulent fruit envelops fine, linen-like tannins, and it displays the hallmark concentration and depth of all the Stratus Cabernet Francs, but with a bit more of that verticality, focus and tension that I often find in “Bench” Cabernet Francs. Not only did this stand out in the line-up as almost being a bit Loire-esque but with more weight and ripeness, but it also helped emphasize the strength of Status’s own vineyard “signature” for Cabernet Franc and the strong through-line across the rest of the wines in the tasting regardless of the vintage or approach to winemaking.

2022 White Label Cabernet Franc Amphora, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake (14.1% abv., $65CAD): The first vintage of the new “White Label” came to be with the 2020 vintage and this range represents excellence in viticulture and winemaking at Stratus. Only produced in the best vintages, the parcel destined for the White Label Cabernet Franc bottling will change depending on the vintage conditions and is selected for quality at the time of harvest. In the cellar, Dean has chosen amphorae as his preferred aging vessel for this Cabernet Franc in order to highlight the purity of fruit and expression of place. Showing the winery’s signature bolder, riper fruit profile, the 2022 White Label displays a sultry, pure, dark fruited profile of crême de cassis and black raspberry pâté aux fruits layered with notes of dried oregano, rose potpourri, sandalwood, delicate spices and a touch of wet stone minerality. Sumptuously textured with tightly woven, cashmere-like tannins, the plush, voluminous palate is balanced by cleansing acidity and a firm, focused finish.

2024 “Trials” Cabernet Franc Zero-Zero, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake (14.5% abv., $55CAD): The exceptional 2020 vintage also marked the debut of Stratus’s “Trials” range of wines, which are small batch experiments following the “zero-zero” philosophy of no additions, no added sulphites, and no filtration. The 2024 “Trials” Cabernet Franc was aged briefly (90 days) in neutral French oak. Perfumed and a touch exotic on the nose and palate, with a mélange of ripe, red and dark fruits like confit red cherries and black raspberry coulis, layered herbals and florals of sage, jasmine and lavender, mixing with notes of fennel seed, star anise, and pink peppercorn. Round, a touch creamy, and richly textured, while also having an unmistakeable low-fi energy and verve. Vibrant, avant garde and impeccably crafted, this wine feels akin to the “classic” Stratus Cabernet Franc, while being more youthful, unadorned, and, for lack of a better word, “hip.” A Stratus Cabernet Franc for a new generation of wine drinker.

2020 Cabernet Franc “Decant”, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake (14.9% abv., $145CAD): Only produced in excellent vintages, Stratus began to bottle their Cabernet Franc “Decant” in 2014 - a wine that represents the pinnacle of the estate’s work with the variety. It is a barrel selection that sees longer aging (614 days) in French oak with a larger proportion of new wood (40%). The wine is then bottled in a one-of-a-kind custom bottle that is not only eye-catching but was designed to catch sediment as the wine is poured. Concentrated and densely packed with notes of blackcurrant and plum, mixing with evergreen sous-bois, fragrant twiggy herbs like rosemary, and rounded out by elegantly integrated oak and varietal spice (star anise, clove). Rich and enveloping on the palate, its cleansing acidity balances the wine’s opulent and luxe mouthfeel, while firm, fine, meaty tannins give the wine excellent structure helping to frame the fruit beautifully and setting it up to age well over the long term. Interestingly, it reminded me of some recent vintages of Couly-Dutheil’s Clos de l’Echo! This is an impressive wine that marries power, concentration and elegance. Best after 2030 and shared with Right Bank Bordeaux-loving wine enthusiasts.

So, here are some of the wines that excited my palate in the last month of 2025!

The main purpose of my trip to South Africa was to give a masterclass on Cabernet Franc for the Cape Winemakers Guild.1 I recently posted about the experience in more detail on Instagram, and I also shared the 13-wine line-up of incredible Cabernet Francs from around the world that were part of the masterclass. Each wine was intended to tell a story of people, place and a grape, while also speaking about what the future may hold for Cabernet Franc in each region, as well as broader trends and themes I’m seeing and hearing from my research and tastings. So, here are some highlights from that line-up.

Tuscany featured heavily in the tasting, with three wines from across the region, and a particular focus on Bolgheri, which has seen incredible growth in Cabernet Franc plantings in recent years. Cabernet Franc is now the #2 planted variety (behind Cabernet Sauvignon) and plantings have increased by 132% in the last ten years. One of the wines I presented was the 2021 Paleo Rosso from Le Macchiole (14.5% abv., SRP $170USD). Le Macchiole was the first to make a 100% Cabernet Franc in the region in 2001, and it has been a few years since I have tasted this wine. Of the all the wines in the tasting it saw the highest percentage of new oak (90%) for aging, and I was really impressed by the balance and integration of the wood with the fruit and structure in the wine. Fleshy, riper dark fruits were nicely balanced by notes of cypress, oregano and dried lavender. Fine, velvety tannins, with balanced freshness, it is a rich, more opulent style of Cabernet Franc with poise, polish and just the right amount of restraint.

Also from Europe, I made sure to feature a wine from Hungary, and specifically the region of Villány, which has named Cabernet Franc as its signature variety. There is around 1500 hectares of Cabernet Franc planted in Hungary (more than all of California), and Villány even has an official PDO for 100% Cabernet Franc from the region called Villányi Franc. For the masterclass, I presented the Malatinszky, 2013 ‘Kuria’ Cabernet Franc (14.5% abv., SRP $70USD), and this wine was an absolute stunner. Many examples of Villány Cabernet Franc I’ve tasted feels a little “Parkerized” and overdone for my palate, but this wine really had a sense of place and character. With notes of ripe red fruits and green Turkish fig, mixing with beautiful spice layers of paprika, chilli flake and cinnamon. It was in a beautiful spot in its evolution, with soft, chalky tannins, superb concentration and density through the mid-palate, and a fresh, elegant, lingering finish. World class.

South America also played an important role in the masterclass and one of the wines that I was really excited to pour was the Bodega Garzón 2022 “Petit Clos” Cabernet Franc (13.0% abv., SRP $65USD) from Maldonado, Uruguay. Plantings of Cabernet Franc are relatively small in Uruguay (about 200ha), but I have loved what I’ve tasted from across the country so far. Beautifully fragrant, with lifted, fresh red fruit and herbal (thyme, tarragon) aromas, finishing with succulent spicy notes of dried ginger and cardamom. Lively acidity, with firm, chalky tannins, the wine had a great sense of verticality to it, with superb tension, concentration and length. The wine has a really classic “Old World” energy about it, contemporary in styling, with subtly and finesse working in tandem with weight and depth. Impressive.

Back in the Loire Valley, my visits were primarily with domaines I know well and I usually have the opportunity to taste their wines regularly throughout the year. One exception on this trip was a visit to Domaine Michel Thibault in Bourgueil. I discovered the domaine back in August, and was instantly smitten with the wines. Officially retired since 2014, Michel is now in his late 70s and has sold off or is renting out all but 0.90 hectares of his vines, which he has kept for himself so that he can continue to farm and make wine every year. The domaine was one of the first in Bourgueil to farm organically, which they have been since 1974.

Michel’s style is old school, using foudres built in the 1930s to vinify his reds, aging them in old 500L oak barrels. His current release, the 2022 Bourgueil (13.5% abv., SRP 7.00EUR) is for lovers of traditionally-styled, earthy Loire Valley Cabernet Franc. Dark fruited, with undertones of herbs, cedar, potting soil and spice. Fine chalky tannins, with mouthwatering acidity that brings that lovely “digeste” drinkability to the wine. It does show a bit of the “solaire” character of the vintage, but with superb restraint as well. As an elder in the region from an era long since past, some might consider his style “rustic,” but the wines are clean and well-made, and I find them wonderfully charming and honest. Michel also has a superb selection of library vintages of his classic Bourgueil Rouge and also his “Cuvée Alouette” (his top wine) all priced between 7.00and 8.00EUR. Worth a stop if you’re in the region and appreciate mature, old school Loire Cabernet Franc.

And at the complete opposite end of the Loire Valley Cabernet Franc spectrum and a domaine that needs no introduction, I had the pleasure of spending a few hours with Thierry and Louis Germain of Domaine des Roches Neuves on this trip, which was my first time paying a visit to the domaine in a few years. We tasted through the 2024 and 2023 cuvées parcellaires, and I got a preview of the 2025s as well. I will share a bit more on those wines in another post, but in appreciation of Cabernet Francs that are available now and drinking beautifully, I wanted to highlight the estate’s Cuvée Domaine.

From a selection of parcels, the 2024 Cuvée Domaine (12.0% abv., SRP $30USD/ 15EUR) from Domaine des Roches Neuves is a really exemplary expression from the vintage. If you recall, 2024 was a challenging year. Cooler than recent vintages, with significant rainfall throughout the year, which continued through harvest. It might be considered a “classic” Loire vintage, but with improvements in viticulture and winemaking in recent decades, it means the wines are markedly better than what we would’ve seen from a vintage with similar conditions from the 1980s or 1990s. Like many of the top estates, Domaine des Roches Neuves did “declassify” some parcels and cuves from their single vineyard wines to add to the domaine cuvée to improve the estate’s offering from the vintage as a whole. I love this expression of Saumur-Champigny. Pure, delicate, floral, it playfully dances across the palate with energetic, snappy acidity and fine, silky tannins. Tense and nervy, sophisticated and refined, this will continue to round out with a bit of time in the bottle. Just lovely.

The day I visited Roches Neuves, Jeanne Germain was also at the domaine tasting her range with some clients. Jeanne has charted her own course as a vigneronne and is working with some of the family’s parcels in the communes of Saumur and Dampierre-sur-Loire. In the cellar, she works meticulously following a zero-zero philosophy (no additions or SO2 whatsoever). Her 2023s are drinking beautifully at the moment. The 2023 Saumur-Champigny “Bavardages” (12.5% abv., SRP 15EUR) is her “vin de soif” expression of Cabernet Franc, and the wine totally delivers on this promise. Lively, crunchy, with juicy red fruits, and subtle herbal undertones, it is delightfully quaffable, crushable and a joy to drink. The 2023 Saumur-Champigny “La Foulée” (13.0% abv., SRP 20EUR) is a bit more classically styled from parcels in the same lieu-dit as Roches Neuves’s La Marginale, which is a very clayey site. Sometimes in years with a bit more rainfall (like 2023 and 2024), these clayey sites produce wines that take a bit more time to come around, but the 2023 La Foulée is drinking superbly, showcasing a varietally-forward fruit profile with darker fruit and fragrant earthy-woodsy undertones (cedar, thyme), enveloping tannins that are cashmere-like in texture with cleansing acidity, and an energetic, peppery finish.

I also paid a visit to Domaine Yannick Amirault in Bourgueil to get Benoît’s take on the 2025 vintage and also tasted some of their current releases. At the end of our tasting, we enjoyed a simple lunch with the team, and knowing my love for older vintages and it being close to the holidays and all, Benoît opened a bottle of the 2008 St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil “Les Malgagnes” (13.0% abv.) for us to try. These parcels in eastern St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil on the slopes represent the estate’s heritage and where it all began with Benoît’s great-grandfather back in the 1930s. The Les Malgagnes, for me, is always a bit more about charm and subtlety versus their Le Grand Clos, which I always find to be a bit more of an “impact” wine that is luxurious and regal. A more classic vintage, 2008 is one that I enjoy quite a bit and I find many examples to be showing quite well at the moment, and the 2008 Les Malgagnes is no exception. Fine, silky, with heady florals of rose potpourri, sandalwood and dried tarragon, and a kiss of star anise through the finish, it is generous without being “gourmand,” that is to say it is giving and enveloping, but also remaining poised and reserved. Exquisite.

Finally, as it is the holidays, it is worth mentioning what graced my Christmas Eve and Christmas Day tables.

You could say that this might be too nerdy an exercise to do for the holidays, but I wanted to do a little multi-region, “Cabernet Franc-on-Clay” exploration. So my Christmas Eve duck confit was accompanied by the Bernard Baudry, 2017 Chinon ‘Le Clos Guillot’ (13.0% abv.). (This parcel does have a tuffeau impact, but there is a good depth of clay in the topsoil before hitting the bedrock.) Admittedly, I probably should’ve opened this wine up much earlier in the day than I did, but it did deliver on the aromatic and structural profile I was hoping for to match with the crisp-fattiness of the duck confit and the savoury, earthy braised flageolet beans with lardons that I made to accompany the protein.

Christmas Day dinner was a classic, English-style roast beef dinner with all the fixings (including Yorkshire pudding). I opted for Cabernet Francs from clay-dominated terroirs because normally I find the tannins to be a bit more dense and impactful, which I thought would stand up well to the beef. So, the line-up included the 2019 Saumur-Champigny “La Marginale” from Domaine des Roches Neuves (13.5% abv.), the 2016 Gran Enemigo “Agrelo” (Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina, 13.5% abv.) from El Enemigo, and the Vineland Estates Winery, 2022 Cabernet Franc Reserve (Niagara Peninsula, ON, Canada, 14.0% abv., SRP $53CAD). All three wines delivered the tannin and structural profile I was hoping for, that is, broad and enveloping with densely packed velvety tannins. The Marginale was more red fruited, spicy and energetic, while the Gran Enemigo Agrelo was more dark fruited, supple and luxurious, and the Vineland Reserve fell somewhere in between, with a youthful, plush fruit profile that gives it this moreish drinkability. Everyone at the table graciously appeased my nerdiness and all wines were whole heartedly enjoyed by those that imbibed.

Thank you for reading this issue of my newsletter! Wishing you all a 2026 filled with balance, happiness, prosperity, and wine glasses overflowing with deliciousness (Cabernet Franc or otherwise!). My sincerest thanks for all your continued enthusiasm and support for Cab Franc Chronicles. I raise my glass of Cabernet Franc tonight to all of you!

This year brought with it not only some incredible opportunities and experiences, but also the odd wrinkle that wasn’t on my 2025 Bingo Card at the start of the year.

I was fortunate to have visited a few new wine regions this year, Long Island and the Hudson Valley (thank you, Cab Franc Forward and the New York Wine & Grape Foundation) and also South Africa (thank you, Raats Family Wines). During my brief time (about 48 hours!) in Long Island and Hudson Valley, I was able to get a better idea of the Cabernet Franc picture in these two regions, particularly compared to the Finger Lakes, which will help shape my coverage of the grape for New York State as a whole. And my time in South Africa was my first real in-depth look at the Cabernet Franc scene in Stellenbosch and beyond, and I am looking forward to sharing my discoveries here and on Instagram in the months ahead.

I also travelled to the Loire Valley four times this year - a region that has, in more ways than one, become my second home. I attended the trade salons in February, and later returned in May to give a masterclass for international journalists on behalf of Wines of the Loire Valley as part of their annual press trip, Loire Millésime. And I was back again in June for La Paulée d’Anjou, where I co-led a masterclass on red wines of Anjou with sommelier and journalist Jérôme Gagnez.

Herein lies the first wrinkle (or maybe gift… TBD) of 2025. My June Loire trip was supposed to be a week. That’s all the vacation time I could spare. And then, rather unexpectedly, I was let go from my job in late May (thanks, Trump-Canada tariff war!). Out of a job, having not yet booked my flight to France for June, and with the love of my life in the Loire as well, I decided that a summer in the Loire would be as good for my palate as for my heart and soul. All told, I was in the region for about eight weeks, as I wrote about in a few Substack posts (#’s 63, 64, 65) recapping my time, and I did try to balance Cab Franc Chronicles work, self-reflection and a bit of vacances. I probably would’ve stayed in the Loire right through until harvest had it not been for 2025 Wrinkle #2 - becoming mom to a then-8-week-old furry, four-legged creature (a dream 24-years-in-the-making come true!) Labour Day weekend, a story I shared in my September Tasting Diaries post.

All of this personal roller coaster aside, I still managed to have a “productive” year (though far shy of my goals) content-wise with in-depth tasting videos and written Substack posts (16 and soon-to-be 20, respectively). I also recorded three podcast episodes with wine writer David Furer for his podcast “Drinking on the Edge,” one of which (on the Finger Lakes) has already been released with others episodes to be released and new ones to be recorded in 2026. Finally, Cab Franc Chronicles also turned 5 this fall, which in itself is an exciting milestone.

Now, before I share some of my most memorable wines and moments of 2025, I wanted to highlight a few of the top posts from Instagram/YouTube and Substack from the last year for those that may have missed them.

From Instagram/YouTube (videos):

El Enemigo, 2012 Gran Enemigo “Gualtallary” Cabernet Franc, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina (posted January 27)

Boundary Breaks, 2023 Cabernet Franc, Finger Lakes, New York, USA (posted April 8)

Loire Valley Cabernet Franc: 16 wines, 9 appellations (posted May 30)

From Substack:

My Most Memorable Cabernet Francs - 2025 Edition!

From the Loire Valley

Having spent as much time in the Loire as I did this year, I tasted a lot of incredible wines. I mean A LOT. I spent the last few days re-reading my notes and sifting through my phone looking at bottle shots hoping to narrow the over a thousand wines tasted this year to a mere handful of memorable bottles and moments. Not an easy task I’ll have you know! But here are some Loire Valley Cabernet Francs from the last year that I continue to dream about.

For the first time (and certainly not the last!) I was in the Loire for my birthday. Special occasions always add to the memorability factor for any wine, but the 2017 Anjou Rouge Cabernet Franc from Clau de Nell was really a stunning wine. Enjoyed at the restaurant La Route du Sel in Thoureil, on a gorgeous June evening, at a table overlooking the Loire River with my beau, this wine was at a terrific spot in its evolution, with layers of exotic spices and potpourri, finely structured and beautifully balanced. At around 40EUR on the list, what made this wine even more exceptional was how well it paired with our main course, which was a fragrant Moroccan-spiced lamb collar with salsa verde and yogurt. It was one of those absolutely delicious food and wine pairings that will remain at the top of my list for years to come.

Over the years, I have been fortunate to have had the opportunity to taste multiple vintages of the same cuvée with several Loire Valley domaines. But none quite as memorable as the 28-wine tasting with Christophe and Sandrine Deschampes of Domaine du Chêne Arrault in Bourgueil. On a rather unassuming Tuesday afternoon in July, Christophe, Sandrine and I went down into the depths of the domaine’s cave at the communal Caves du Grand Mont for three or so hours to taste through a selection of vintages of their Vieilles Vignes cuvée ranging from 2019 and concluding with the legendary 1947 vintage. It was a fascinating study in the ageability of Cabernet Franc and Loire Valley vintages for reds. Some of my favourite wines were from “lesser” or under-the-radar vintages, such as 1986 (often over-shadowed by 1985), proving that the combination of vigneron and vineyard is often more important than vintage, while some wines were unrivalled in their balance and “completeness,” (like the 1982 and 1976) highlighting that some vintages are crowned “great” vintages for a reason! This was a once-in-a-lifetime tasting I will never forget.

And then there are the wines that are memorable not because they are old, rare or from a special vintage, but are memorable simply because they are delicious. I’ve lost count of the number of times I enjoyed the 2023 “Eollithe” from Château de Fosse-Sèche this year. It became my unofficial “welcome home” wine that Alexandre and I would order at Brasserie de la Gare in Angers (fab restaurant, by the way!) after arriving to the Loire from Paris by train. I also had the pleasure of visiting with Guillaume at the domaine in June, where I came to appreciate on a whole new level the domaine’s unique terroir and their 360-degree approach to the “ecosystem” of the domaine from vineyard through to bottle. I also presented this wine at the masterclass I gave at La Paulée d’Anjou as an example from the unique Jurassic limestone soils of central Saumur. And as such, part of my enjoyment of this wine stems from the nerd that I am and appreciating how Cabernet Franc just “feels” different coming from the silex de Brossay soils. So, part intellectual, part emotional, but all pleasure in this expression of Cabernet Franc.

From Around the World

This year I discovered a most memorable and beautifully-made Cabernet Franc from perhaps one of the most unlikely places for the grape - Greece. While on a work trip to visit producers in our portfolio back in January, the second last night of the trip, the only night I had solo, I happened to stumble into the Heteroclito wine bar in Athens. And after 5 days without a single Cabernet Franc in sight, as if fate had intervened, there were not one but two Greek Cabernet Francs (both called “Tsapournakos”) on their wine list, a rosé by the glass and a library release red by the bottle, both from Ktima Voyatzi in the Velvento region in Northern Greece. While sipping on the 2023 Tsapournakos Rosé, I learned that “Tsapournakos” is the local name given to a once-unidentified red grape discovered in Kozani region of (Greek) Macedonia, which was preserved, nurtured and promoted by Dr. Yannis Voyatzis of Ktima Voyatzi. Later, thanks to DNA analysis, it was eventually discovered that Tsapournakos was, in fact, Cabernet Franc. As you can probably guess, as someone who has devoted her career learning about Cabernet Franc, I was excited as a kid on Christmas morning to have serendipitously discovered this wine and its story that night. And perhaps it goes without saying, but I bought a bottle of their rosé and the library release, the 2007 Tsapournakos, at the wine bar that night. And then the next day, I proceeded to go on an hour and a half pilgrimage to the suburbs of Athens to buy a bottle of their 2020 Tsapournakos to take home as well. Poured blind for a few Cabernet Franc enthusiasts back on Canadian soil, the 2007 Tsapournakos from Ktima Voyatzi not only did not disappoint, it exceeded my expectations. Crafted in a classic Bordeaux-inspired manner and perfectly matured, this was a pure, honest, thoughtfully-made expression of Cabernet Franc with lots of herbal and spice layers, fine, polished tannins, and beautifully balanced and integrated use of oak. So impressive.

My trip to South Africa earlier in December left a lasting impression, and I look forward to sharing all of my highlights and insights in a proper report in early 2026, but a recap of my 2025 wouldn’t be complete if I didn’t mention some memorable wines here. Firstly, from Raats Family Wines, their 2023 Vlag Vineyard Selection Cabernet Franc. This wine is one of the newest wines in the family’s Cabernet Franc range which is from select parcels in Polkadraai Hills representing the pinnacle of their work with the variety. I tasted and re-tasted this wine a few times throughout my week in South Africa, and now nearly a month later, I still can’t get it out of my head. I loved it for its gorgeous floral, red-fruited character, precision, polish and length.

While in South Africa, I tasted with a number of the country’s leading Cabernet Franc “specialists,” but it isn’t everyday you have the opportunity to explore a winemaker’s career retrospective with a single variety. It was a Cabernet Franc from Bourgueil’s Domaine de la Chevalerie that inspired Lukas Van Loggerenberg to start his winemaking journey, and in 2016 he launched his namesake winery, which was anchored by his appropriately-named “Breton” Cabernet Franc. Seated at Lukas’s dining room table, we tasted every vintage of his Breton, 2016 to 2024, and while doing so he chronicled how his style has evolved over the years with changes in vineyard sources, winemaking constraints and his winery’s success at home and abroad, while remaining true to his mission to make low-intervention, site-expressive wines. Lukas is a rising star winemaking talent in South Africa, and with wines like these, it is easy to see why. (Notes to follow in my upcoming report.)

Finally, in the category of memorable=delicious, a wine I have written about on a few occasions this year, the 2022 Elevation Cabernet from Vineland Estates Winery in the Niagara Peninsula in Ontario, Canada. I recommended it as part of a post on Ontario Cabernet Francs back in April, and again in October, and I also included it in my recommendations as part of a recent l-express.ca article written by podcaster Pierre Ferland. All of this is to say that this wine is, quite simply, a really yummy, pleasurable Cabernet Franc. And wine should be, above all else, about pleasure.

A Celebration of the Versatility of Cabernet Franc

One of the “pillars,” if you will, that I launched Cab Franc Chronicles on in 2020 was to highlight and celebrate how wonderfully versatile this grape is. While the vast majority of the wines made from Cabernet Franc are red, I would argue that there isn’t another red vinifera variety out there that has a range quite like Cabernet Franc - not the least of which are rosés, in dry, off-dry and sparkling form, but also blanc de noir styles in still and sparkling, red sparkling wines, and, as a proud Canadian I would be remiss if I didn’t also mention Icewine. This year I had the pleasure of tasting an unprecedented array of expressions from regions around the globe that seek to showcase the beauty and complexity of Cabernet Franc in a more creative way.

Some of the wines that really resonated with me this past year include the blanc de noir expressions from Fabien Duveau in Saumur-Champigny, his 2023 “Humelay” Blanc de Cabernet, from Long Island, Bedell Cellars’s 2024 White Cabernet Franc made by winemaker Marin Brennan, and from Stellenbosch, the 2025 Cabernet Franc Blanc de Noir from Rainbow’s End. In rosé form, I fell in love with the Crémant de Loire Rosé from the family estate Domaine du Clos de Lassay in Anjou, and also from Long Island, Macari Vineyards’s 2024 “Horses” Cabernet Franc Pet-Nat.

If there was doubt that Cabernet Franc rosé could age, my tastings this year defied that narrative. When made well, Cabernet Franc rosé can age just as well as a white wine, and also develop complexity over time. Some standout bottles I tasted this year included the 2014 Chinon Rosé from Olga Raffault, the 1989 Cabernet d’Anjou from Saumur-Champigny’s René-Noël Legrand, and possibly the rarest of them all, a 1947 Bourgueil Rosé that was part of the flight that concluded my aforementioned tasting with Christophe and Sandrine Deschamps of Domaine du Chêne Arrault.

Finally, and perhaps one of the most challenging non-traditional expressions of Cabernet Franc to do well, sparkling red. This year I fell head over heels for Arnaud Lambert’s NV l’Ardoisier, which is a demi-sec traditional method sparkling that sees upwards of four years on lees and is impeccably crafted and superbly balanced. I’ve been so intrigued by this style of Cabernet Franc that I hope to explore it further in 2026.

Looking Ahead…

As the year draws to a close, I have been reflecting on the developments in my personal life, as well as experiences, accomplishments and milestones for Cab Franc Chronicles, and I am left asking myself the existential question: “What’s Next...”

For the last five years, Cab Franc Chronicles has been a side hustle, if you will. I’ve devoted nearly all of my free time - evenings, weekends, vacation time - to this passion project. And I’m proud to say, I have a lot to show for this time and effort, and I have accomplished more than I ever expected to in five years. But I also know that there is a certain aspect of this “side hustle” mindset, knowing I always had a full-time job to fall back on, that has also held me back from realizing my dream “vision” for Cab Franc Chronicles.

So, all that said, I am going to make a go of it. It’s time to “turn pro,” to use athlete-speak. Do what you love, love what you do.

So what does that mean exactly for Cab Franc Chronicles? Well, I’m not really sure yet, to be honest. And I would be lying if I didn’t say that the idea of going “all in” is somewhat terrifying. But I have ideas that I am brainstorming and have started to work on, and plans that I’m putting in place, all with the hope of “levelling-up” what you can expect from Cab Franc Chronicles in the future. And this does not mean that I am becoming a “wine critic” per se (a question I often get asked). The wine world has enough critics, and I don’t believe that is my “role” in the world of Cabernet Franc and also in the wine world as a whole given the current of things. I want to add value, lift up, and support those who are as passionate about Cabernet Franc as I am, while also hoping to maybe inspire the small cohort of “wine curious” consumers to consider choosing a bottle Cabernet Franc for their next drinking occasion.

So, as I look ahead to 2026, my hope is there is a lot more in store for Cab Franc Chronicles. More content, more recommendations, more analysis, more education, more love for this humble grape.

And, as always, thank you for reading and watching, and for your continued support and enthusiasm for what I do, this journey, this project.

But for now, I want to take a moment to highlight some of the wines that delighted my palate last month.

Heathen Wines, 2023 Blanc de Franc, Monticello, Virginia, USA (12.5% abv., SRP $45USD): When pet-nats are made well, they can be really tasty. So I was delighted when I popped the cork on this white Cabernet Franc ancestrale method sparkling from sommelier and long-time friend Heath Porter. Heath partnered with Crozet, Virginia-based Stinson Vineyards to help his vision for this Blanc de Franc to come to life. This wine is jovial and fresh, with delicate aromas of tiny red berries and soft herbs. The mousse is fine and elegant, with additional notes of violets and crème fraîche on the palate. The Cabernet Franc character comes through really nicely, it delivers pleasure and character with every sip. Yum!

Vignamaggio, 2018 Cabenet Franc di Vignamaggio, IGT Toscana, Italy (14.5% abv., SRP $100USD: A rare 100% Cabernet Franc coming from the region of Chianti in central Tuscany, the wine is sourced from vines planted in the 1960s at the Vignamaggio estate in the commune of Greve. There is a decent amount of Cabernet Franc planted in Tuscany (just shy of 800ha or so) and I’m seeing more and more single varietal examples on the market, so if my budget allows, I always buy a bottle to try. This wine displayed a definite sunny, riper character one would expect from the sun-drenched Tuscan hillsides, but it also showed lovely varietal character with notes of cedar wood, cypress, bay leaf and fresh oregano, with a hint of rose potpourri. While the wine saw a percentage of new oak, I found the wood to be well-integrated and reserved on the nose and palate. The wine had balancing freshness with elegant, velvety tannins that offered a touch of grip through the finish. Luxurious and richly textured, with restraint and elegance, this is a perfect Cabernet Franc heading into the colder months that would be smashing alongside braised beef cheeks.

Château du Hureau, 2019 Saumur-Champigny “Lisagathe” (13.5% abv., SRP $35USD): From a selection of parcels in Dampierre-sur-Loire and Souzay-Champigny, I’ve long been a fan of this cuvée and I’ve had the pleasure of tasting it at various stages of its life. Last time I tried the 2019 (probably about 18 months ago), it was a little tight and standoffish. It is amazing what time in the bottle can do! About an hour after opening, the wine really started to sing. Dark, foresty berries (mulberry, cassis) with a touch of cedar leaves, rosemary and dried mint, and added layers of pink, green and white peppercorns, chalk and tobacco on the palate. Refreshing acidity marries with taut, velvety tannins, the palate has an enveloping fleshiness, lovely purity, finesse and balance. This will continue to improve over the medium to long term, so feel free to hold it longer if you have a bottle in your cellar.

RR81, 2023 Cabernet Franc, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (13.0% abv., SRP $35CAD): This is the latest Cabernet Franc release from the project by The Farm’s Neudorf family. Made it a low intervention style from fruit sourced from one of Niagara’s “premier cru” sites for Cabernet Franc, the wine expresses a beautiful purity of fruit and bright inviting character right from the get-go. Red-fruited with peppery undertones of black and green peppercorns, with a delicate herbal quality. The palate is lively with juicy acidity, with fine, taut, cotton-like tannins that weave together to create a firm but approachable structure. It feels very Loire-esque in style with a hint of Niagara polish. Enjoy now, decanted, with fattier proteins to balance the wines acidity and structure, perhaps a turkey or duck leg confit with a cherry compote. I think it will be even better in a few year’s time.

Red Tail Ridge, 2020 Cabernet Franc, Finger Lakes (Seneca Lake), New York, USA (12.8% abv., SRP $30): When I had my first sip of this wine, I instantly said out loud that this wine was unquestionably a Finger Lakes Cabernet Franc. Now the problem is trying to articulate why! Red fruit-driven (cranberry, raspberry) with a distinctive savoury-herbal edge and notes of violets and potpourri. The wine is lean and light on its feet for the vintage (a hot and dry one for the Finger Lakes), but with good density and concentration of flavours, and a Pinot-like elegance. Energetic acidity and fine, chalky tannins, the wine is medium-bodied, balanced, and persistent. This was the inaugural vintage of a single varietal Cabernet Franc for Red Tail Ridge and it has me eager to try more. Bravo!

Domaine du Bel Air, 2024 Bourgueil “Jour du Soif” (12.5% abv., SRP$20USD): Some early-drinking 2024s from the Loire are starting to make their way to the market, and from my tastings so far, I think there is a lot to look forward to from this challenging vintage. The “Jour du Soif” is the entry-level wine from the revered Gauthier family in Benais and is from a selection of their parcels primarily on the slopes in eastern Bourgueil. The wine has a lifted, pure, pretty nose with fresh red fruits and savoury undertones. Cranberry and sour cherry mingle with foresty notes as well as violets, nettle, green peppercorn and thyme. Brisk, juicy acidity with fine chalky tannins, it is medium-bodied with good definition and concentration for the vintage. Spicy with a bit of minty freshness on the finish, the wine is beautifully charming, with plenty of substance for short-term cellaring.

Just as a final note, tomorrow, December 4th, is International Cabernet Franc Day! And if there was any day to encourage you to open that favourite bottle of Cabernet Franc you’ve got in your cellar, tomorrow would be a fine day to pop the cork on that bottle and bask in the beauty of this humble grape!

Thank you, as always, for reading, and for your continued enthusiasm and support. Cheers!

This journey, this nerdy, deep dive down the rabbit hole of Cabernet Franc, has been more incredible than I could’ve ever imagined. And I feel like I’ve barely scratched the surface. I have been reflecting a lot in recent months on all of this, and I will be retooling how I approach my videos to make them more digestible and hopefully useful for wine enthusiasts and professionals alike. The classic Cab Franc du Jour videos will continue, and I have plans to introduce some other forms of video content in the near future as well.

All of this is to say that five years in there is lots to look forward to. And I continue to be deeply grateful to everyone out there. Wherever you are, through whatever medium you choose to support this journey, thank you from the bottom of my heart.

Now, without further ado…

If Cabernet Franc had a season, it would unquestionably be fall.

So much that I associate with this season has parallels to this glorious grape variety. My tasting notes often overflow with earthy, savoury descriptors like wet or dried autumn leaves, sous bois, fresh churned earth, woodsy notes of cedar and cigar box, petrichor, mushroom, herbs like thyme, rosemary, and sage, and, of course, all of those warming spices that have become synonymous with pumpkin pie like clove, nutmeg, dried ginger, cinnamon, and allspice. Structurally, Cabernet Franc often delivers just the right amount of weight and body that brings comfort as the weather gets cool, but on those crisp, sunnier days, it doesn’t ever feel too heavy. Then there’s all those fall foods! I’m thinking all the delicious gourds, brassicas, and root vegetables like squash, sweet potato, Brussels sprouts, parsnip, carrots, beets, celery root, turnips and more. Plus, as the weather cools and we retreat inside, long simmering braises and soups and heartier roasts find their way to our tables - all of which can be a perfect pairing for Cabernet Franc. Of course, it goes without saying, there is no more perfect Thanksgiving wine than Cabernet Franc! Finally, there is the emotional side to the season. There is a certain sensitivity to Cabernet Franc that seems to resonate with the often somber, more melancholy, reflective mood that goes along with fall as we creep closer to the end of the year and we watch nature begin its slow transition from the vitality of summer to its quiet, hibernation of the months to come.

For the Cabernet Franc lovers out there, you know your mission! But, for the Cab Franc skeptics (it’s cool… I see you) who might be reading this, if there was any moment to courageously dip your toe into the beautiful universe of Cabernet Franc, it would be now. So, put on your favourite fuzzy sweater, queue up a folky, cozy playlist on Spotify, get a simple roast chicken (or mushroom risotto) going, lean in your sensitive size, and curl up with a bottle of Cabernet Franc.

Need a little inspiration? Here are some wines I’ve enjoyed in recent weeks.

Bloomer Creek, 2016 Cabernet Franc, Finger Lakes (Seneca Lake), New York, USA (12.4% abv., SRP $35USD): My first introduction to Finger Lakes Cabernet Franc was a bottle of Bloomer Creek that I enjoyed back in 2016. What struck me about it was how much it felt similar to my favourite Cabernet Francs from the Niagara Peninsula, without even realizing how similar the climate and soils are between the two regions. The 2016 vintage was one of those banner vintages for the red Bordeaux varieties in the Finger Lakes that (used to!) happen a couple times a decade. With nearly ten years of aging under its belt, it displayed complex tertiary aromas of dried cherry, dried autumn leaves, foresty undertones, and leather. Very herbal (rosemary, mint jelly, oregano oil) with hints of kirsch and cassis, the tannins were ripe and plush, while the acidity was soft, but persistent. Traditionally styled, a touch sauvage, with just the right amount of refined rusticity. If I had another bottle, I’d pair it with rack of lamb and rosemary scented roast potatoes.

Vineland Estates, 2022 Elevation Cabernet, VQA Niagara Escarpment, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (13.5% abv., $24.70CAD): I profiled this wine back in April as part of a feature on Cabernet Franc from Ontario, but it merits mentioning again because it is just so damn delicious! It is predominantly Cabernet Franc (Brian Schmidt tells me its about 98% franc) from the estate’s Bo-Teek vineyard and it’s aged briefly in neutral oak. Perfectly balancing fruit-forwardness with earth and spice, it is plush, with enveloping, seamless tannins that gentle hug the tongue like your favourite cozy blanket keeps you snuggly on a cold day. Well-structured, while also brimming with ease and approachability, you’d be hard-pressed to find a better Cabernet Franc from Ontario at this price point that delivers this much depth, charm and companionability. This was the (Canadian!) wine of choice for my family’s Thanksgiving table earlier this month, and it was a match made in heaven.

Domaine des Roches Neuves (Thierry Germain), 2019 Saumur-Champigny ‘Clos de l’Echelier’ (13.5% abv., SRP $60USD): Representing the top tier (along with Les Mémoires) of the domaine’s range of reds, Clos de l’Echelier - the place - is defined by very shallow, lighter textured soils and a more pronounced influence of the tuffeau chalk bedrock. Translation? This is an energetic, structured, vertical expression of Cabernet Franc. With a lifted, fragrant nose defined by raspberry and red currant fruit, medicinal herbal notes of anise and rosemary, spicy florals (peony) and an underlying aroma of white button mushrooms. Vivacious acidity, fine chalky tannins, the wine’s corseted structure marries beautifully with its graceful, ethereal, almost lacy aromatics. This will continue to improve with more time in the cellar, but it is entering a good drinking window now. If you have this in your cellar, decant for a few hours (if possible), and consider pairing with seared duck breast and a wild rice and mushroom pilaf.

Bernard Baudry, 2023 Chinon ‘Les Granges’ (12% abv., SRP $24USD): At this point in this journey, I feel like Domaine Bernard Baudry no longer requires an introduction! I have featured a number of their cuvées as part of my in-depth tasting videos and also in Substack posts. But as a refresher, their Les Granges is one of three reds in their range that are from alluvial soils (the others being Le Domaine and Les Grézeaux). This would be considered by many to be an “early-drinking” style of Chinon intended to be drunk young, but if you check out Keith Akers’s very timely article on this cuvée, it can age surprisingly well! I adore this 2023 Les Granges with its savoury, earthy fruit profile with notes of thyme, fresh churned soil, and cedar leaves coupled with raspberry and blueberry undertones. Pure, bright, youthful, with a yin-yang spice profile of clove that grounds the wine, with pepper and chilli flake that provide lift. Cleansing acidity and silky tannins combine to create a fluid, quenchable, easy-going wine with lots of character. Fall in a glass! While tasting this it had me craving classic bangers and mash with a side of braised red cabbage.

Le Monde, 2021 Cabernet Franc, DOC Friuli, Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, Italy (13% abv., SRP $20USD): About 23% of Italy’s 5500 hectares of Cabernet Franc is planted in Friuli. And you would think that with that many hectares we would see more single varietal examples in the export markets, but I find them difficult to track down. Le Monde is a world class estate, so I was delighted when my friend Melissa Winkler of Winkler & Samuels Wine & Spirits in Buffalo brought this along for us to enjoy at lunch earlier this week. From a more “classic” vintage, the wine was brimming with plenty of life, vitality and energy. Juicy acidity carried the sweet-savoury tart red and black fruits, accompanied by fragrant herbs (basil, tarragon) and plenty of pepperiness to give it a bit of zip. The palate was soft and silky with nicely managed tannins, medium bodied with a lunch-friendly ABV, it was super approachable, with just the right amount of structure and palate-cleansing freshness. Pair with creamy tomato and roasted red pepper soup with an oozy grilled cheese.

Domaine de la Cotelleraie, 2018 St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil ‘Le Vau Jaumier’ (12.5% abv., SRP 15-17EUR): We don’t often talk about the slopes in St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, which is for good reason seeing as though they only account for 25% of the appellation’s terroir, the balance being sandy-gravelly alluvial soils. But there are some grand lieux-dits tucked up in the northern end of the appellation, one of which being Le Vau Jaumier, thanks to its prime southern exposure and silty-clay soils over the Middle Turonian tuffeau. From one of the warmest vintages in the last decade, this wine displayed beautiful restraint and poise out of the gate. With notes of dark fruit (black raspberry, black currant and fresh mission fig), purple and pink florals, coupled with notes of mint and marjoram and delicately spiced undertones (star anise, cardamom), the wine has plenty of depth, purity of fruit, and layered complexity. Soft mouth-watering acidity weaves with velvety ripe tannins, it was succulent, voluminous, enveloping, while showing superb drinkability and freshness. With added notes of cocoa, graphite and cedar wood, this wine packs a remarkable amount of complexity in its petit 12.5% alcohol frame. Superb. This has enough going on structurally that I think it would stand up nicely to a hearty braise such as a beef cheek daube or navarin of lamb.

The first vines were planted at what is now Domaine Sauveroy in St-Lambert-du-Lattay, in the heart of the Layon River valley, back in 1866. The modern story of the estate, which begins in 1947, is unique in western Anjou and rooted in a deep passion for Cabernet Franc.

In a region best known for its noble sweet wines made from Chenin Blanc, Francis Cailleau believed it was possible to make exceptional Cabernet Franc and began producing Anjou Rouge from his domaine’s vines in the 1950s. His commitment to the variety was further reinforced when he served as president of the syndicate of Anjou Rouge producers from 1978 to 1981. That love of Cabernet Franc has been passed down through the generations, from Francis to his son Pascal, and now to his grandson Quentin, who joined the domaine in 2018.

Domaine Sauveroy today farms 26 hectares of vines, 11 of which are planted with Cabernet Franc. Rather than producing a single expression of the variety, as is common among many domaines in this part of Anjou, the estate makes four distinct Cabernet Francs, each seeking to highlight the complex terroirs and soils of their various parcels. The domaine is certified organic, with a strong emphasis on soil health, including leaving parcels fallow for three to seven years before replanting. In 2022 they also began employing agro-forestry practices, planting 1,000 trees throughout the domaine to enhance biodiversity across the vineyards.

Anjou-Villages AOP

Before exploring the terroir, it is worth clarifying the appellation. This wine is an Anjou-Villages, which differs from an Anjou Rouge in a few meaningful ways. The broader Anjou AOP covers red, white, and sparkling wines across a large area of about 88 communes, and for an Anjou Rouge the principal grapes are Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, with allowances for up to 20% Grolleau and up to 10% Pineau d’Aunis, at maximum yields of 60 hl/ha. Anjou-Villages, by contrast, is exclusively a red wine appellation using only Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, with yields capped at 55 hl/ha and production limited to 26 communes, the majority of which follow the Layon River through the Coteaux du Layon territory.

St-Lambert-du-Lattay Commune

Today’s wine takes us to the commune of St-Lambert-du-Lattay, the heart and soul of the Coteaux du Layon production area, with a viticultural history stretching back to the Middle Ages, when the nuns of the Ronceray Abbey of Angers established one of their priories in the village.

St-Lambert-du-Lattay sits in western Anjou, about 20km south of Angers and 12km northwest of Thouarcé, on the left bank of the Layon River. This is Anjou Noir territory, where the ancient rocks of the Massif Armoricain take over from the limestone-based soils of the Paris Basin. Anjou Noir is the collective term for these old rocks, a complex mix of schists, slates, and sandstones. In broad terms, Brioverian schists dominate the left bank of the Layon, while the St-Georges series of schists and Carboniferous sandstones characterise the right bank.

As with the limestone soils of the Paris Basin, these Anjou Noir soils are varied in origin and composition, but what matters most for Cabernet Franc is that they are all dark, dense, brittle rocks with poor water retention capacity. Combined with the region’s relatively low annual rainfall of 600 to 700mm, this creates a real risk of hydric stress for Cabernet Franc, which can block maturity and amplify the variety’s inherent rusticity, producing wines with harder, more austere tannins. Site selection therefore becomes critical, with deeper and more clay-rich soils offering the best chance of providing adequate moisture reserves for the vines.

The Vineyard

The Victoire is sourced from 1.85 hectares of younger vines across three lieux-dits: La Masse Cassée, Carrefour Rouge, and La Pièce Longue, all located principally around the domaine in the southern part of St-Lambert-du-Lattay and all with a gentle southern exposure. The soils in these parcels are somewhat deeper than typical for the area, with a silty-clay topsoil rich in gravels and quartz over a subsoil of clay, sitting atop a bedrock of Brioverian schist, here a mix of green, black, ochre, and purple micaceous, talc-rich sandstone-schist. Quentin explains that these parcels were chosen for the Victoire cuvée because of their precocity, delivering balanced maturity, while the clayey soils contribute a little more flesh and volume to the finished wine.

In the Cellar

The fruit is hand-harvested and fully destemmed before fermenting in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts at 25 to 28C. Maceration is primarily by infusion throughout, with just two to three pump-overs in total, and total skin contact of 18 days. The free-run and press wines are kept separate initially, with a small percentage of press wine added back before aging. The wine is then aged for 12 months in clay amphorae of 160L and 750L, vessels chosen for the gentle micro-oxygenation the clay provides, which helps to soften and polymerize the tannins while preserving the purity of the fruit.

In the Glass

Lifted, pure, and fragrant on the nose, with sweet-tart blackcurrant, raspberry, and morello cherry alongside expressive foresty herbals (cedar leaf, sous-bois, wet leaves) and warming spice (Sichuan pepper and cinnamon). Shows great complexity up front, particularly for the price point.

The palate is medium-bodied and juicy, with blackcurrant taking the lead and fresh herbal notes (nettle, mint, sage, juniper) adding interest. Acidity is soft and builds quietly toward the finish. The tannins are beautifully managed: fine, crisp, and uniform, with a characteristic firmness that speaks directly to the schist, that is to say they are less “pliable” than the tannins from Cabernet Franc on tuffeau. Clean, well-structured, sultry and fruit-forward in its pleasure, elegant, approachable yet quietly reserved. Shows beautiful typicity from this part of Anjou and an excellent value at approximately €15 from the domaine.

Wine Details

• Producer: Domaine Sauveroy

• Appellation: Anjou Villages

• Commune: St-Lambert-du-Lattay

• Lieux-Dits: La Masse Casse, Carrefour Rouge, La Pièce Longue

• Soils: Silty-clay topsoil with an abundance of gravels and quartz, clayey subsoil (over 1m of topsoil and subsoil), over a Brioverian schist bedrock

• Alcohol: 13.5%

• SRP: 15EUR

Fjord Vineyards, 2023 Cabernet Franc Rosé, Hudson River Region, New York (12.7% abv., SRP $22USD): Winemaker Matthew Spaccarelli is among New York State’s most enthusiastic Cabernet Franc champions making several styles of the grape at both his own winery, Fjord Vineyards, and as winemaker at Benmarl Winery in Marlboro. His 2023 Cab Franc Rosé is fine example of the style that really highlights the bright, beautiful, naturally high acidity that the wines from the cooler, more marginal climate of the Hudson Valley can display. Made by direct press, the wine shows citrus-y and red fruit notes on the nose and palate, with a mix of lime zest, blood orange juice, red currant and Rainer cherry. Cab Franc’s signature herbaceous undertones come through with notes of lemon thyme, jasmine and lilacs. Fragrant, zesty and aromatic, with a delightful uplifting energy, the wine is light bodied, crisp, clean, immensely refreshing with just a touch of creaminess on the finish. A pretty and pleasurable rosé. I think poached shrimp and green goddess dressing/dip would compliment this wine beautifully.

Domaine des Closiers, 2021 Saumur-Champigny “Les Closiers” (13.0% abv., SRP $35USD): If you’ve been following me for some time now, you will no doubt know how much I adore the wines from Domaine des Closiers. It has been several months since I last tasted this 2021 “entry-level” Saumur-Champigny, and as is the case with so many of the great Loire 2021 reds right now, this wine has entered a delicious drinking window. Pure, focused, with pristine blue and red fruited notes of raspberry, wild blueberry and red currant, underpinned by aromatics of lilacs, violets, basil and tarragon. Lively, cleansing acidity weaves seamlessly with silky tannins, the wine has filled out nicely and put on a bit of flesh with time in the bottle. Harmonious with impressive concentration and depth from what is often consider a lighter, more “delicate” vintage, this wine is a masterclass in purity, precision and finesse.

Antoine Sanzay, 2022 Saumur-Champigny “La Paterne” (13.0% abv., SRP $30USD): Another “entry-level” Saumur-Champigny that punches above its weight class, Antoine Sanzay’s domaine wine is from a selection of parcels from around Dampierre-sur-Loire, Varrains and Chacé. The 2022 vintage was the polar opposite of 2021, and this wine certainly displays the hallmarks of a sunny, warm vintage with a riper fruit profile and herbal notes I often associate with these types of vintages. Forest-y aromas of cedar leaves and wood mix with Mediterranean-like notes of wild mint and eucalyptus, but these take a backseat to the lush, sumptuous red and dark fruits on the nose and palate. Mouthwatering acidity provides freshness and tension, while the ripe, plush tannins give way to a fine, chalky firmness through the finish, with the mid-palate revealing added layers of succulent florals, sweet tobacco and fresh churned earth. Structured, with regal, warm vintage confidence, this is a suave, contemporary Saumur-Champigny that will continue to reward with additional cellaring.

Cave Spring, 2023 Estate Cabernet Franc, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara, Ontario, Canada (13.5% abv., $22CAD): For those that are not familiar with Cave Spring, this estate is one of the Niagara Peninsula’s oldest family-run wineries and is among the region’s most respected producers. From their namesake Cave Spring Vineyard on the Beamsville Bench, the latest release of their Estate Cabernet Franc is brimming with fragrant, Franc-forward aromas of sweet-tart cherry, raspberry and cranberry mixing with sage, thyme, mint and spruce tips. The fresh and inviting palate is carried by sprightly acidity and fine, linen-like tannins, with a silky mid-palate that has plenty of juicy fruit and green peppercorn spice elongating the finish. Digeste, companionable, and characterful, at this price point, this is a fine value from Ontario that will elevate any mid-week meal and have you running back to the winery (or LCBO) for more.

Susana Balbo “Crios” 2022 Cabernet Franc, Mendoza, Argentina (14.0% abv, SRP $18USD): It makes me happy to see that the LCBO is embracing Argentinian Cabernet Franc with what seems like new releases every couple of months with the latest from Argentinian wine royalty and trailblazer Susana Balbo. Coming from select sites in Luján de Cuyo and the Uco Valley, out of the gate, this wine is supremely inviting with riper fruit, but with plenty of purity and freshness, coupled with just the right amount of varietal character to draw you in. Notes of cassis, black raspberry and dried goji berry mix with aromas of oregano, cypress and black pepper spice. Fresh, balancing acidity and velvety, elegantly-managed tannins give way to additional layers of dark chocolate, chilli flake and cinnamon. Full bodied, but with measured restraint and balanced freshness for added drinkability, this is a deliciously approachable, smooth Cabernet Franc that would make a fine introduction to the variety for someone who tends to prefer voluminous, riper reds or if you love a sumptuous red to curl up with as the nights get cool.

Yannick Amirault, 2023 Bourgueil “Côte 50” (13.0% abv., SRP $25USD): Vintage after vintage, Domaine Yannick Amirault remains in the upper echelon of Bourgueil domaines with a devoted fan base around the globe. Their Côte 50 is somewhat of a “house wine” for me, and the 2023 is lip-smackingly good. Dark fruited, with notes of blackcurrant and black cherry, and herbal aromas of cedar leaves, evergreen shrubbery, rosemary and sage, and a distinctive underlying peppery character reminiscent of espelette pepper. The palate displays juicy, cleansing acidity with fine, sandy tannins, and a divine silky mid-palate experience. Plush, fleshy, with superb drinkability, this wine shows beautiful polish, density and refinement, and sets the bar for top-tier, early-drinking examples of Bourgueil. You can’t go wrong with this one.

Ending on a more personal note…

The year was 2001. While attending the University of Guelph for my undergraduate degree, I decided to venture out to my local Chapters bookstore (think: Barnes & Noble, for my American friends) to procrastinate from having to study for an exam or complete some sort of boring, albeit necessary, assignment. After grabbing a cappuccino from Starbucks, I began to circle the magazine rack looking for some “light” reading material to keep me from the more important things I should’ve been doing. Having always been a “dog person,” the now-extinct Dogs in Canada magazine caught my eye - and what better way to procrastinate than look at pictures of dogs! While thumbing through the pages, I landed on a page with a breed I had never heard of, the Gordon Setter. Described as confident, resolute and affectionate, and of Scottish ancestry I might add (just like me!), I decided right then and there that when the time was right for me to get a dog, I was going to get a Gordon Setter.

And, as 2025 seems to be the year of the universe delivering me unexpected gifts, exactly one month ago, some twenty-four years later, I have welcomed a young, furry creature into my life.

Gordon is a fast learner, and we are now starting to settle into a routine that balances potty breaks, walks, cuddles and Cab Franc Chronicles activities! And with the fifth anniversary of this project on the horizon, I’m working on some new and exciting ideas for content, articles and videos for the weeks and months ahead. So there is lots to look forward to.

Thank you, as always, to everyone for reading/watching. I am deeply grateful for your continued enthusiasm and support.

So, without further ado, let’s dive in!

Anjou

Château de Bois-Brinçon

Situated in the commune of Blaison-Saint-Sulpice in Eastern Anjou, I had to pleasure spending a few hours with Xavier Cailleau, where we did a deep dive into their Cabernet Franc cuvées parcellaires. One of Xavier’s passions, and one of the reasons he chose the path of the vine, is geology, and their 8 hectares of Cabernet Franc vines are planted across several unique terroir units all within a few kilometer radius of the domaine. Xavier’s tireless work in the vineyard and adapting his approach to vinifcation and élevage to highlight the expression of their soils in the wines has resulted in a finely crafted, elegant range of wines that reflect their terroir and showcase how beautifully Cabernet Franc can be a mirror for place.

Domaine du Clos de Lassay

Led by 14th generation vigneronne Béatrice Taillée, this domaine may not be one that is familiar to many of you, but they have a loyal client base in the Loire, and each vintage they produce a tiny quantity of wines from their best parcels exclusively for these clients. Walking the vineyards with Béatrice and her new maître de chai Armita, I got the sense that it was as if Béatrice intimately knew each individual vine. This deep understanding of her parcels comes through in the wines, which are classically styled with a focus on elegance and finesse. Armita and I tasted through a selection of current and older vintages of the estate’s Anjou Rouge, which is a companionable, honest expression of Cabernet Franc that would win over anyone wine lover’s heart. Another highlight is the estate’s Crémant de Loire Rosé, which is a beautifully refined expression of traditional method sparkling Cabernet Franc.

Domaine Sauveroy

I was introduced to the wines of Domaine Sauveroy when I presented their 2023 Anjou Villages “Victoire” as part of a masterclass I led for the Wines of the Loire Valley in May. What I loved about this wine in particular was that it felt like a quintessential expression of Anjou Rouge with sumptuous fruit, soft but persistent acidity, and a sultry energy about it that I find oh-so inviting. When I visited with Quentin Cailleau at the domaine, I learned the family’s passion for Cabernet Franc began with his grandfather, who planted their first Cabernet Franc vines in 1947 and began making Anjou Rouge in the 1950s. Today, the estate produces a thoughtful range of reds that harnesses the power of their schist soils while being beautifully approachable and deliciously drinkable.

Terre de l’Élu

Situated in the commune of Saint-Aubin-de-Luigné, Thomas and Charlotte Carsin are organically farming about 4.5 hectares of Cabernet Franc from which they make their L’Aiglerie, which is from parcels on quartz and vinified 100% whole cluster, and their Magellan, from parcels on schist and vinified more classically by destemming the fruit. When I visited the domaine, I had the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to do a vertical tasting with Charlotte of their cuvée L’Aiglerie - vintages 2020 to 2012. With exquisite floral and savoury undertones, this cuvée shows focus, an intricate linear structure, and distinctive notes of mint and liquorice with age. Their forthcoming release of their Magellan 2021 will need some time in the cellar, but it shows promise with superb concentration, verve, and rich textures but is also impressively light on its feet.

Saumur-Champigny/Saumur

Château du Hureau

The Vatan family have been deeply entrenched in vigneron life since the 1700s, and they became proprietors of Château du Hureau in the 1940s. This is a domaine I have fallen in love with in recent years having enjoyed the wines on a few occasions at home and abroad. Philippe Vatan’s range of Cabernet Francs are the perfect balance between the old school Saumur-Champignys that I love and just the right amount of polish and sophistication. Precisely and carefully made, his 2022s are elegant expressions from the vintage, all with beautifully lifted aromatics, balanced freshness, and fine, silky, well-managed tannins. Of particular note was the 2022 Fours à Choux, which Philippe doesn’t bottle as a single cuvée each vintage, but 2022 delivered something magical with an exquisite expression from this sandy parcel Dampierre. One to buy by the case!

Clos Cristal

One of Saumur-Champigny’s most important historical vineyards, Clos Cristal is named after its creator and original owner Antoine Cristal, who - almost single-handedly - helped to re-established vineyards across the region after phylloxera as he was one of the first to learn to graft vitis vinifera vines onto American rootstocks. Antoine’s innovative vineyard, which he built and planted in 1890, features 3km of tuffeau walls, including parcels where the vines are trained through the walls, allowing the vines to benefit from the heat accumulated during the day to accelerate vine growth and ripening. Today, Caves Robert & Marcel are the custodians of this vineyard, and seek to preserve Antoine’s legacy by vinifying a structured, cellar-worthy single-vineyard cuvée reflective of this unique terroir.

Clotilde Legrand

Based in Varrains, the Legrand family have been vignerons in Saumur-Champigny since the 17th century. Clotilde Legrand has been managing the family domaine since 2014 and is the first woman to do so. While some domaines across the region seek to experiment with new techniques and approaches, Clotilde is a traditionalist in the best possible way. She focuses on stainless steel vinifications, long, gentle maceration and long aging in oak. What’s more is she also believes in bottle aging the wines and releasing vintages as she deems they are ready - a commitment rarely seen in the world of wine today. Proof that good things come to those who wait, her range of wines are beautifully crafted, contemplative and a joy to drink.

Domaine de Nerleux

Amélie Neau is the ninth generation in her family to continue the tradition of farming vines in the commune of St-Cyr-en-Bourg and the first woman to lead Domaine de Nerleux. With a focus on organic viticulture and a classic approach in the cellar, her range of reds are finely crafted, energetic, and infinitely approachable with focus on purity of fruit and elegant structure. They also represent some of the finest values in the appellation. I recently did a video feature on their Clos des Châtains 2021, which was one of my favourite cuvées that tasted on my recent visit.

Domaine de l’Ours Bleu

With no prior knowledge of the domaine or its wines, I tasted the 2020 La Salle Martin at La Paulée in June and was rendered speechless. Situated in the commune of Montsoreau along the western border of Candes-St-Martin, proprietor Julien Contant purchased the existing domaine Manoir de Chaumont with the desire to make cellar-worthy expressions of Cabernet Franc that can stand the test of time. Working with Jérôme Baillargeau to manage the vineyards and cellar, the wines undergo gentle extended macerations and very long aging in oak barrels followed by extended bottle aging before release (upwards of 5 years total élevage). The wines are complex, thought-provoking, and compelling expressions of Cabernet Franc that leave a lasting impression.

Domaine de Rocheville

Driving up to Domaine de Rocheville, you would think you were arriving at a winery in Sonoma or Santa Barbara County, and not a wine estate in the sleepy commune of Parnay in Saumur-Champigny. The domaine is the dream of Philippe Porché, who built the domaine from humble origins to an idyllic cave touristique perched up on the tuffeau plateau with beautiful views of the Loire. His 13 hectares of organically farmed Cabernet Franc (plus 4ha of Chenin) provide inspiration for his well-crafted reds that range from bright, fruit-forward quaffers to complex, contemplative cellar-worthy parcellaires. There is something here for everyone!

Domaine des Caviers

While this domaine is relatively new on the scene, the Mesnard family of Montreuil-Bellay, Claude and his son Julien, are one of the most respected grape growers in Saumur suppling certified organic grapes to handful of producers across the region. Julien, who has worked at the likes of Château Latour and Clos Rougeard, began to vinify some of the family’s Chenin and Cabernet Franc starting with the 2022 vintage, and every time I get a chance to re-taste his wines, I couldn’t be more excited for the future of this domaine. Their 2022 Saumur Rouge is coming into a superb drinking window now, and the 2023 is refined, expressive and deliciously approachable in its youth.

Domaine Filliatreau

Paul Filliatreau was instrumental in putting Saumur-Champigny on the map with key innovations to create a fresh, quaffable expression of Cabernet Franc that became a hit in bistros across Paris in the 1970s and 80s. Their Vieilles Vignes cuvée is a personal favourite and one you can often find back vintages of on the market. The domaine reserves around 1200 bottles of this cuvée each vintage to age in their tuffeau cellars for re-release at a later date. At the time of my visit, they were preparing a selection of orders for clients featuring the vintages 2003, 2004, 2006, 2008, and 2011. If you find these wines in the wild, don’t hesitate to snap them up. They are great values for those that love perfectly mature Loire Cabernet Franc.

Etienne Bodet

One of the Saumur region’s young vignerons on the rise, Etienne Bodet burst onto the scene with his Clos Durandière from the 2020 vintage and quickly cemented himself in the upper echelon of producers. Etienne is extremely meticulous with his wines, both in the vineyard and cellar, with a focus on low yields and long élevage (two years in barrel and 2 years in bottle) for his Clos Durandière. His 2021 is simply stunning - seamless and elegantly framed with remarkable purity, precision and depth. The forthcoming 2022 release shows superb concentration and power as we would expect from the vintage, but with beautiful restraint and finesse marrying sublime, velvety tannins and ethereal, layered aromatics.

Fabien Duveau

When speaking with vignerons from across Saumur-Champigny about who some of the up-and-coming “stars” are in the region, one name that comes up time and time again is Fabien Duveau. The 8th generation in his family to manage the domaine, Fabien focuses on cuvées parcellaires from his Cabernet Franc parcels around Chacé and Varrains. I am particularly fond of his Humelay Blanc de Noir of Cabernet Franc, which is vinified 1/3 each in ceramic jars, concrete and barriques, and it is possibly my favourite white Cabernet Franc I’ve tasted to date. So balanced, so pure, so delicious! And his 2023 Bas Poyeux is also a knockout showing beautiful depth, succulent-savoury fruit, velvety tannins and balancing acid spine. His Cabernet Francs are defined by their depth of character, purity of fruit and elegant structure.

Le P’tit Domaine

With only 4.5 hectares dotted across three communes in Saumur-Champigny, Richard Desouche established his domaine with his first 0.4 hectares of Cabernet Franc in 2006 while working as vineyard manager at Clos Rougeard - a post he still holds today. His meticulous approach to viticulture for the legendary Clos Rougeard extends to his work at his own domaine, and his intimate understanding of his parcels and soils is reflected in the wines. Using a traditional approach in the cellar focusing on longer macerations and aging in oak, Richard, and now with the help of his son Jean, is crafting exceptional Cabernet Francs that will delight enthusiasts and professionals alike. These are honest, contemplative wines that communicate a sense of place in the glass.

Must.Be.Wine

Driven by a passion for wine and the terroir and collaborative vigneron(ne) community of the Saumur region, Alicante, Spain natives Ana Gimeno and Candela Rodriguez of Must.Be.Wine put down roots in the commune of Parnay after spending years travelling and making wine in a variety of regions around world. They are sourcing fruit from the aforementioned Mesnard family to produce their Chenin Blanc, and two styles of Cabernet Franc, “Go Your Own Way” a whole cluster-carbonic maceration expression and “I Want to Be/Brett Free,” which is more classically styled. The former is a fun, no-nonsense, juicy expression of Cabernet Franc, while the latter delivers sumptuous fruit, plush, enveloping tannins, and plenty of substance for longer term cellaring.

Thank you so much for reading and for all your continued support. I apologize for the delay in getting these posts published. I’ve been adjusting to some changes in my personal life, and I am now getting back into the groove, slowly but surely. I have lots in the works for September and the rest of the year (there are only four months remaining of 2025!), so I look forward to continuing to share more stories and insights from the big, beautiful world of Cabernet Franc with all of you.

As always, thank you for being here, for reading, for subscribing, and for all of your enthusiasm and support.

For the next two newsletters, I will share a bit of a recap of the domaines that I visited and some of my insights and experiences, and then I will provide some more in-depth coverage over the coming weeks through separate articles and/or videos. So, with this newsletter, we head to Touraine: Bourgueil/St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil and Chinon.

Bourgueil/St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil

Domaine Ansodelles

Established in 2014, Anne Rouxelin set out to chart a new course as a vigneronne with the creation of her estate Domaine Ansodelles. Anne organically farms 4.6 hectares of Cabernet Franc vines in the communes of Benais, Bourgueil and Restigné. A true one-woman show, Anne has approached her range of wines with care and creativity, and with a strong focus on her efforts in the vineyard first and foremost. Her range of Cabernet Francs are a reflection of her conscientious approach to viticulture, with low yields and detailed canopy management, giving wines with depth, concentration with just the right amount of polish and sophistication.

Domaine des Raguenières

With a little over a decade at the helm of Domaine des Raguenières, Philippine Delachaux has quickly earned the respect of her vigneron and vigneronne peers in the commune of Benais and the appellation of Bourgueil as a whole. Her parents purchased the estate from a retiring vigneron in 2012, and Philippine’s first vintage was 2013. With parcels in the communes of Benais, Restigné and Ingrandes-de-Touraine, her focus is producing cuvées parcellaires from her top parcels, including Les Haies in Restigné, a very qualitative lieu-dit I see appearing more and more as a single-vineyard bottling, and La Perrinelle on the slopes in Benais. The wines are traditionally-styled with refinement and elegance in mind.

Domaine du Changeon

Located in the northern most part of the commune of Benais around the hamlet of Chavannes, vigneron David Ledoux spent a little over two decades working as an engineer at Peugoet before listening to his inner agriculteur and charting his path as a vigneron. Taking over the domaine of the now-retired Bruno Dufeu, David’s 12 hectares are all in the commune of Benais, including a few hectares of Chenin Blanc for his sparkling wine. David’s first vintage was 2023, and his Cabernet Francs reflect his rigorous and attentive work in the vineyard during this difficult vintage, and they offer tons of early-drinking pleasure and his top cuvée, Grand Mont, will reward those who are patient enough to tuck it away for a few years.

Domaine du Chêne Arrault

I first tasted the wines from Christophe Deschamps’s domaine a few years ago at one of the Loire trade salons. I was immediately smitten with the older vintages of Cabernet Franc he was presenting that day, yet little did I know that his domaine is one of only a few in the Bourgueil appellation with a remarkable library of old vintages from the domaine - in fact, their library goes all the way back to 1867! An 8th generation vigneron, Christophe and his wife Sandrine - a vignneronne in her own right with La Fontaine aux Fougères - were gracious enough to organize for me a once-in-a-lifetime tasting of 28 wines at their tuffeau cave beneath Grand Mont. We tasted principally the domaine’s Vieilles Vignes cuvée from vintages beginning with 2019 and ending with a trio of 1947s. This was an extraordinary retrospective of vintages gone by and proof of Cabernet Franc’s capacity to age gracefully and stand the test of time.

Domaine du Petit Bondieu (Thomas Pichet)

Based in Restigné, this domaine is quickly becoming one of my new favourites in Bourgueil. I was first introduced to the domaine by Benoît Amirault of Domaine Yannick Amirault when I asked him for recommendations of other domaines to visit and get to know that align with my ethos and vision for Cab Franc Chronicles coverage. Thomas’s range of Cabernet Francs are a lesson in thoughtful craftsmanship that begins in the diligent work in the vineyard coupled with techniques in the cellar that have been honed over time to produce wines that are expressive of terroir, deliciously approachable and yet built for cellaring. This is a domaine on the rise in Bourgueil.

Simon Remy

Farming a mere 3 hectares of vines and only on the scene since his inaugural 2021 vintage, Champagne-native Simon Remy was introduced to me by Marie Belda of the Maison des Vins de Bourgueil. Coming from a family of agriculteurs, Simon was always deeply passionate about farming and nature, and after falling in love with the Bourgueil region and its terroir, he decided to choose the path of the vine and set up his domaine in the commune of Benais. With esteemed neighbours like Pierre Gauthier of Domaine du Bel Air and Aurélien Revillot taking him under their wing, Simon is learning quickly about the nuances of his parcels around Benais and is taking a meticulous and methodical approach to his range of wines. A young vigneron to watch in the world of Cabernet Franc!

Chinon

Charles Joguet

The last time I tasted at Domaine Charles Joguet was in May 2022 on my first trip to the Loire. I was long overdue for a visit, and having tasted a number of cuvées, particularly some older vintages, with friends in recent years, I was eager to go through the wines in detail with winemaker Kevin Fontaine, who celebrates his 20th vintage at the domaine with the 2025 harvest. We tasted their complete range of 2021 and 2022 Cabernet Francs - two very contrasting vintages - and the domaine continues to assert its position in the upper echelon of Cabernet Franc producers, not only in Chinon and the Loire Valley, but across the globe as well.

Domaine Fabrice Gasnier

In the world of Loire Cabernet Franc, you can find estates that I would call “traditional” and also domaines that are more “modern,” and then you’ve got the ones that are somewhere in between. I often refer to these estates as “contemporary.” Domaine Fabrice Gasnier is one of these such estates. Today, the fourth and fifth generation, Fabrice and son Valentin Gasnier, lead the domaine, and carry on the legacy of Jacky Gasnier, while also noticing how markets and tastes continue to evolve and change. Their range of Chinons are crafted focusing on balanced ripeness, leading with freshness and juicy drinkability, while also having good capacity for aging. They also make superb traditional method sparkling Cabernet Franc rosé in a drier style than most crémants. These wines deliver nothing but pure pleasure.

Domaine Grosbois

I have waxed poetically about my love of the wines of Domaine Grosbois in several posts and videos, but it had also been three years since I had visited with Sylvain Grosbois at the domaine. They have since opened a lovely farm-to-table restaurant overlooking their vineyards serving pork and beef from their domaine-raised livestock and nearly all the vegetables are sourced from their own farm as well. And the domaine’s wines? These are fresh, elegant Cabernet Francs that highlight the domaine’s continued pursuit of purity, clarity and communicating a sense of place in the glass.

Domaine de la Roche-Honneur

With nearly 45 vintages under his belt and as old school as they get, vigneron Stéphane Mureau is a wealth of knowledge (and opinions!) about the Chinon appellation and recent vintages, and the uniqueness of the terroir of the Véron Peninsula. We tasted his current range of wines and a selection of older vintages of his Diamant Préstige cuvée (2005, 1999, 1990, 1981) from the domaine’s library in his tuffeau cave in Beaumont-en-Véron. These are honest, savoury, traditionally-styled expressions of Cabernet Franc that deliver the right amount of complexity, character and approachability in every glass.

J-M Raffault

This generational family domaine is not only one of the leading producers in the Chinon appellation but also one of the most historic. The estate boasts parcels in some of the region’s most prized vineyards including Les Picasses and Les Puys, and monopole holdings of the historic parcels Clos d’Isoré and Clos de l’Hospice. Having tasted the some of the domaine’s wines a year ago at an event in Chinon, it was a pleasure to finally take the time to understand Rodolphe Raffault’s philosophy, and appreciate the nuances of his range of impressive cuvées parcellaires, all of which are beautifully crafted with a focus on finesse as opposed to power, while leaning on a slightly higher ripeness level to appeal to a wide range of palates.

As always, thank you for reading, and for your enthusiasm and continued support!

Part 2 of this feature will highlight my visits in the Anjou-Saumur region and should arrive in your inbox this weekend.

I think Cabernet Franc is a superb grape for rosé, but it is certainly not an easy style to do. Picking too early with a direct press approach in mind can sometimes lead to flavours that are unripe and vegetal, and a wine that is acidic and thin. Pick at full ripeness and proceed with a saignée-style of rosé, and you can sometimes end up with something that is a little one-dimensional, and lacking in acidity and balance. In speaking with Loire vignerons about their approach with Cabernet Franc rosé, some told me it requires even more technical precision in their planning and execution than their reds to get right. And for this reason, I can see why many don’t even bother with the style. But for those that put in the time to really understand their terroirs and specific parcels, and approach their rosé in a thoughtful, serious way, the results can be oh-so pleasurable in the glass.

Many of my favourite rosés that I tried this summer aren’t available outside of France, but I think it is important to highlight them anyway. I didn’t mention prices for each of the below, as they can vary, but most are available between 8.50 and 13EUR from the domaine directly. If you find yourself in the Loire, these are all worth seeking out. And for the Cabernet Franc winemakers out there that might be reading this, should your travels take you to the Loire, these wines could serve as inspiration for your future Cabernet Franc rosés.

Bourgueil

Les Frères Gambier (Domaine des Ouches), 2024 Bourgueil Rosé: A blend of 50% direct press and 50% saignée, this was among my favourite rosés that I enjoyed this summer and a bottle I repurchased time and time again. Fleshy, with balanced, crisp acidity, pleasantly fruity with just the right amount of Cabernet Franc character (herbals like lemon thyme, basil and jasmine), it was medium-bodied with good concentration of flavours. A friendly rosé to enjoy on a terrace, but with enough structure and body to accompany a simple lunch of grilled fish or pork and seasonal veggies.

Domaine de la Chanteleuserie, 2024 Bourgueil Rosé: A combination of both the direct press and saignée approach, this is a lively, pretty rosé, with delicate berry undertones with a touch of herbs and nutmeg on the finish. Light-bodied, zesty acidity, balanced. A terrific, crowd-pleasing rosé that would be the sort of wine I’d buy a case of to serve to guests at summertime, afternoon fête.

Clos de l’Abbaye, 2024 Bourgueil Rosé: Saignée method. A classic Cabernet Franc rosé, with plush berry fruits, a touch of fennel, and soft herbal undertones (tarragon). Round, with refreshing acidity, and a lovely, savoury varietal character, this is a convivial, easy-drinking rosé. Pairs splendidly as an apéro with prosciutto and melon.

Château de Minière, 2024 Bourgueil Rosé “Ceci N’est Pas Un Rosé”: Made by the direct press method. Lean and steely, this is a savoury rosé that leads with crunchy red fruits, fresh thyme, white and pink peppercorn spice, and a touch of flint-like minerality. Textural and saline, a rosé to pair with a chilled seafood tower that’s piled high with razor clams, cockles and other tasty bivalves and assorted fruits de mer.

Yannick Amirault, 2024 Bourgueil Rosé “Rosé d’Equinoxe”: Direct press method, selected from the same parcels each year, and one of the few rosés I’ve come across from the region that is fermented in oak. Complex, concentrated with lots of character and intrigue. Stone fruits, a bit of white currant, with layers of rose, peony and sage, with balanced spice undertones from the oak éleavge. Round, yet with focus and precision, this is a structured rosé that becomes even more expressive with a bit of oxygen. Contemplative and gastronomic, consider pairing this with moules frites or whole chicken roasted with cherry tomatoes and tarragon.

Chinon

Fabrice Gasnier, 2024 Chinon Rosé “Le Rosé”: Direct press, aged in stainless steel with a few months on fine lees. Classically-styled Cabernet Franc rosé with notes of red berries, rhubarb and soft herbs, with a hint of fresh ginger kick on the finish. Plush, with lovely texture and character, zesty acidity and a hint of tannin. A cheerful rosé for any time of day.

Olga Raffault, 2024 Chinon Rosé: I have been buying this rosé for as long as I can remember. Direct press method, fermented in stainless steel. Very pretty, with crunchy red berries, herbes fines, and rose petals. Elegantly quaffable, but with plenty of character, this drinks well as an apéro and seamlessly transitions to tableside companion for a shaved zucchini and ricotta tart with basil and mint.

Bernard Baudry, 2024 Chinon Rosé “Le Rosé”: Another one of my perennial favourites, this is made from parcels on aeolian sands, direct press method, fermented in concrete. With notes of fleshy, white peach and melon, with crisp acidity and a touch of warming spice on the finish. Round, ample, flavourful, with balancing freshness. Always a winner. Pair with whatever makes you happy!

Saumur-Champigny/Saumur

Château de Parnay, 2024 Saumur Rosé “Le Blanson de Parnay”: Direct press approach. Delicately fruity and floral, light-bodied with crisp acidity and wispy wildflower notes through the finish. Clean, refreshing with the right balance of varietal character, a superb poolside sipper on a hot day.

Château de Targé, 2024 Saumur Rosé “Le Rosé de Targé”: Direct press with a small portion of rosé de saignée. Fruit-forward with vibrant acidity, with lovely notes of Rainer cherry, mint and basil, and a touch of purple flowers. Very Ligérien in style, with balanced flesh and tension, with a structured finish. Garden party ready, pairs well with an array of salads and light nibbles.

Jeanne Germain, 2024 Saumur Rosé “Cabrose”: Direct press method from parcels around Chaintres, Varrains and Saumur. Energetic and floral with layers of wild strawberry, rhubarb, lavender and jasmine. Delicately savoury through the mid-palate, with a touch of salinity and spice through the finish. Seamless, flavourful, with plenty of layers to draw you in and keep your attention.

Isabelle Suire, 2024 Saumur Rosé: Direct press method from parcels in the commune of Berrie. Bright and lively, with notes of white raspberry, peach and soft, delicate herbs like chervil and micro basil. Finely structured with a chalky, mineral finish. An elegant, sophisticated rosé that would pair nicely with hamachi crudo or tuna tartare.

Domaine du Vieux Bourg, 2023 Saumur Rosé: The domaine sources their Cabernet Franc for this rosé from the same old vine parcels in Varrains every vintage, and it is made by direct press method. Red fruit-driven, with layers of herbs, florals and a touch of spice through the finish. A textural, structured rosé but with sufficient fruit and flesh. Complex and complete. I think this would stand up nicely to grilled swordfish served with ratatouille.

A Couple Outliers…

Olga Raffault, 2014 Chinon Rosé : A dry rosé perfectly preserved and aged in the domaine’s cellars. Sylvie, Olga’s granddaughter, knows how much I adore their rosé, and when I was at the domaine in July, she offered me a bottle of their 2014 to try this rosé with a bit of age (one of a hundred or so bottles they tucked away). If you had blinded me on this wine, I would’ve never guessed it was a 10 year old rosé. Impressive freshness and life, complex but nuanced, with layers of white currant, potpourri, candied ginger and nutmeg spice. Beautiful purity, elegance and intrigue. If I had another bottle, I’d tuck it away for another 10 years just to see how it develops. Such a treat!

Domaine René-Noël Legrand, 1989 Cabernet d’Anjou : The domaine only produces this Cabernet d’Anjou style in exceptional vintages, and it is made from Cabernet Franc grapes picked a little later in the season and made in a medium-dry style. This wine proves that Cabernet Franc is one of a very few number of grapes in the world (red and white) that is capable of excellence across a wide range of styles. Beautifully layered, with a subtle sweetness that had seamlessly integrated with the wine’s acidity and structure over time. Notes of dried apricot, yellow plum, goji berry, and a hint of red pepper jelly, with delicate notes of chamomile, stem ginger, candied lime zest, jasmine and white tea. Concentrated, complex and harmonious. A gastronomic delight for anyone who loves sweet wines! We enjoyed this alongside a fresh apricot tart, and it paired beautifully. But I think this would be great with some savoury dishes as well, like an heirloom tomato, peach and goats cheese tart with fresh basil to finish, or to accompany a cheese course. This was a library release I purchased at the domaine in July for a mere 15.00EUR.

If you have a favourite Cabernet Franc rosé, from the Loire or elsewhere, I would love your recommendations! Hit me up in the comments with your faves.