All that is to say, I’m delighted to be back in the Loire, even with the excruciatingly oppressive heatwave that persisted over 5+ days last week - the short and long terms impacts of which have yet to be fully understood. Thankfully, this week the temperatures have returned to more “normal” summertime conditions, and there was some welcomed scattered showers over the weekend in parts of the region to give the vines some much needed water.

Since being back, my glass has rarely been empty (and, yes, I’ve balanced my water and wine consumption to stay hydrated!). Here are some highlights from what I’ve been enjoying this month.

From the 2024 vintage, a trio of deliciously juicy and crunchy wines from Saumur-Champigny, Fabien Duveau’s 2024 “Le Bourg,” Domaine de Nerleux’s 2024 “Cuvée Printemps” and Château de Villeneuve’s 2024 “Clos de la Bienboire.” Each benefit from being slightly chilled and they all highlighted the unique characteristics of this cool, Ligérien vintage in their own way. Fabien Duveau’s Le Bourg leading with fragrant herbal notes, fine, chalky tannins and a touch of austerity that brings tension while never tipping the wine out of balance. Nerleux’s Printemps shows buoyant acidity, moreish fruit-forwardness, and a light-as-a-feather tannic profile. And Villeneuve’s Clos de la Bienboire, which I wrote about in a recent feature, showed the delicate florality and pepperiness I’ve come to adore from this vintage with thirst-quenching acidity and elegant tannins.

I’ve also enjoyed a trio of new releases from Bourgueil from the much heralded 2025 vintage. Based on my tastings in recent years, these three producers consistently demonstrate exceptional prowess in crafting these fruit-forward, early-release expressions of Cabernet Franc. From Lamé-Delisle-Bouchard, the 2025 Bourgueil “Déchainée” shows lush purply fruits and florals (think: mulberry, opal basil, lilacs) with soft but refreshing acidity, fine, chalky tannins, and finishing full in flavour but light on its feet with energetic pepperiness and plenty of lift. From Benoît Thibault’s Domaine des Perrières, their 2025 Bourgueil leans the most “old school” of the three I tried this month, and I adore it for this quality. Fragrant, classic varietal undertones (red fruit, fennel seed, cedar, tarragon), with plush, juicy acidity, impressively fine tannins, it perfectly balances fruit-forwardness and savoury-earthiness, in a package that is deliciously drinkable and wonderfully charming at the same time. Finally, Yannick Amirault’s 2025 Bourgueil “Côte 50” is, to put it quite simply, a very sexy Cabernet Franc. Delectable, dark fruited, dried sage and mint, acacia florals, exquisitely velour-like tannins, concentrated without feeling heavy or opulent, it is enveloping, caressing, with just the perfect amount of mouth-watering acidity to make you say “oh yes, please, I’d like another glass.” It should be part of every warm climate/vintage Cabernet Franc winemaker’s homework to taste this wine. Period.

A heatwave wouldn’t be complete without some rosé, and with the forecast expected in July, you can bet there will be more rosé tasting notes to come. I enjoyed my last bottle of Bernard Baudry 2024 Chinon Rosé, which was showing beautifully after a year in the cellar, with lovely creamy, melon notes, layered with fine white pepper and ground ginger spice, crisp and vibrant, full-flavoured and deeply satisfying. And I also enjoyed a delightful treat I brought back from South Africa in December, the 2024 Cabernet Franc Rosé from Zorgvliet in the Banghoek ward in eastern Stellenbosch. Lively and delicate, it displayed quite a pretty fruit profile that was “sunny” and fleshy while still feeling quite fresh. Notes of pomelo, Rainer cherry, with floral undertones (white lilac, rose and jasmine) and a touch of micro basil. Plush and a touch creamy, it delivered just what to doctor ordered on a steamy June evening in the Loire.

Last week I attended the 14th edition of La Paulée d’Anjou, which was held this year at Grenier St-Jean in Angers. This is one of the great events in the Loire celebrating Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc from the terroirs of Anjou: Anjou Noir (the schists and sandstones of Western Anjou), Anjou Blanc (the limestones of Eastern Anjou and Saumur) and the “Bourgueillois” (the terroirs of Bourgueil and St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil). There were more than 100 Cabernet Francs present as part of the event, and while it would be impossible to list all of my favourites here, I do want to share some highlights.

Saumur, Saumur-Champigny and Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame: The inaugural release from Terres des Carmes, the 2025 Saumur Rouge “Primavera” showed beautiful energy and purity with succulent acidity and plush tannins. From the very Ligérien 2024 vintage, there were some beauties from Théo Blet, his 2024 Saumur Rouge “Le Corbin”, which displayed lovely balance, elegance and depth of varietal character, and the Domaine Moly 2024 Saumur-Champigny “Les Sybraties,” which I love for its perfume, persistence, and focus. There was a lot on offer from the 2023 vintage, but a standout was the Fabien Duveau 2023 Saumur-Champigny “Haut Poyeux,” which showed lovely herbal aromatics, fine, velvety tannins and taut mineral spine.

From the 2020 vintage, there were two wines I found particularly impressive: the Domaine de l’Enchantoir 2020 Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame “Clos du Petit Chavannes,” which I also tasted last year and it continues to delight my palate for its balance, fine structure and freshness, and the 2020 Saumur-Champigny “Le Bourg” from Clos Rougeard, which enchants with its fragrant aromatics, dense yet impressively fine tannins, and velour-like mid-palate - both will continue to improve over time. Finally, a back vintage of Château de Villeneuve’s 2009 Saumur-Champigny “Le Grand Clos” was presented at the afternoon seminar, and the wine continues to reaffirm why this cuvée ranks among the Loire’s best expressions of Cabernet Franc and why the 2009 vintage is absolutely one of my favourite of the 21st century for Loire Cabernet Franc.

Bourgueil and St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil: From the commune of St-Patrice in eastern Bourgueil, I am still very smitten with the wines from Domaine de l’Oubliée, which I wrote about last year, and both the 2021 Bourgueil “Notre Histoire” and 2021 Bourgueil “Tenue de Soirée” show beautiful focus, clarity, layered complexity and wonderful buvabilité. Domaine du Bel Air in Benais shows how a deft hand can wield exquisite results in ripe, solaire vintages, like the silky structure and approachability of the 2025 Bourgueil “Jour de Soif” or the enduring freshness, elegance and longevity of the 2003 Bourgueil “Grand Mont.” Also from Benais, a domaine that has been quietly guided by the sage experience of neighbour Pierre Gauthier, the wines of Simon Remy are showing immense potential and promise after only three vintages. His 2023 Bourgueil “Au Fils de Coteaux” and 2022 Bourgueil “Les Vlaudons” both show beautiful generosity of fruit, concentration without heaviness, and refined aromatics. From Restigné’s Domaine de la Chevalerie, the 2019 Bourgueil “Busardières” was an absolute stunner with arresting herbal, floral and spice aromatics, exquisite chalky tannins and wonderfully fresh and enveloping mid-palate ease. Finally, a pair of 2005s were shown at the afternoon masterclass, the Domaine de la Cotelleraie 2005 St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil “L’Envolée” and the Yannick Amirault 2005 Bourgueil “Les Quartiers,” both exhibited impressive freshness, energy, and aromatic complexity, all with 20 years of age and showing no signs of fatigue.

Anjou Noir and Anjou Blanc: From Anjou Blanc soils, but two very different parts of the appellation, come two delicious Cabernet Francs from Jardin de Fleury and Château Bois-Brinçon. Based in Thouars, Carole Kohler’s 2024 “Jardin” Cabernet Franc is an absolutely beautiful expression of the variety from this difficult vintage, with fine purity, energy, aromatic herbal perfume and juicy, thirst-quenching acidity. And from further north in Eastern Anjou, around the hamlet of Blaison-Saint-Sulpice, the Château Bois-Brinçon 2023 Anjou Villages “Le Clos des Cosses” comes from a type of marl unique to this part of Anjou and the 2023 shows great balance and mineral focus with plenty of complexity, a generous but fine herbal character and engaging spiciness. And from Saint-Aubin-de-Luigné in Western Anjou, two vintages of Terre de l’Elu’s “Magellan” showed the layered complexity and impressive longevity of the Cabernet Franc from this parcel. The 2022 Magellan showed gorgeous fruit and herbal complexity, with power, density and fine, elegant tannins, while the 2015 Magellan presented at the afternoon masterclass showed how all that power and density from a warmer vintage can be transformed into layered exotic spiciness, potpourri florals, very fine supple tannins and textural generosity.

Finally, over the weekend, I celebrated my birthday with the latest release from sparkling wine house Bouvet-Ladubay, their 2019 “Ogmius Rosé” Saumur Mousseux Extra Brut. This is the rosé pair to the maison’s other prestige cuvée the Ogmius Blanc, and the 2019 vintage is the inaugural release of this 100% Cabernet Franc traditional method sparkling rosé, which is only available in magnums at a prestige price of 86EUR a bottle. This is possibly the most ambitious sparkling Cabernet Franc I’ve ever tasted.

It leans more vinous, savoury and in a slightly more oxidative style than what we typically think of for most Saumur Mousseux Rosé. Layered red fruits and citrus (red currant, white cranberry, salted lime) with complex herbals (fennel fronds, Makrut lime leaves, white tea, jasmine), finely spiced (candied ginger, cardamon) and a touch of roasted Marcona almond and fine phyllo pastry - it is a very complex sparkling wine! Crisp, focused acidity marries with a very fine, delicate mousse, the wine is structured, but in a manner that feels more ornate than powerful. Serious, but with a touch of rococo flair, it is concentrated, contemplative, beautifully harmonious. Special occasion worthy and probably a very compelling wine to share blind with someone who loves Champagne.

The estate is comprised of four hectares of vines, and they launched with their two core reds: the La Nomade Saumur Rouge from parcels in Artannes-sur-Thouet and the Les Sybarites Saumur-Champigny from old vine parcels in Chacé, Varrains and Chaintres. They have since begun to produce two addition Cabernet Francs: their Bazaar, which is their early release, “spring” wine, if you will, that is vinifed in a combination of stainless steel and concrete, and their Alter Sybarites, which is one barrel of their Les Sybarites that sees an additional year of aging in barrel. And there may be a new single vineyard Cabernet Franc coming to the line-up from the 2025 vintage from a parcel in the lieu-dit Frogères, a premiere site located just north of Les Poyeux in Chacé.

In a short period of time, Etienne has emerged as a rising star in the Saumur region, thanks in part to mentors like Romain Guiberteau, but also because of a character trait I think is inherent in many of the world’s great makers of Cabernet Franc - inquisitiveness. Etienne is driven by not just a humble pursuit of excellence, but a genuine belief in the potential of Cabernet Franc from his vineyards and the Saumur region as a whole. His passion, his curiosity, his desire to taste, listen and learn, his quest for constant improvement, and that nagging urge to question himself as much as the world around him - these are what make him, quite simply, one to watch.

CFC: You came to Saumur for Chenin Blanc. What is it about Cabernet Franc that has you falling in love with this grape?

EM: Yes, absolutely, I came here for my love of Chenin, but I needed to get to know Cabernet Franc. And I have since very much fallen in love with the grape. The main thing that drives me is that there is still so much to discover and to do with it. We have a good base, especially in the Loire, especially in Saumur, but I believe the glass ceiling on Cabernet Franc is somewhere up in the sky. The potential is huge. All we have to do is, vintage after vintage, keep on learning and keep on striving to make better wines.

CFC: For someone tasting your wines for the first time, how would you describe La Nomade and Les Sybarites?

EM: Les Sybarites is our Saumur-Champigny and it’s meant to be a Cabernet Franc that is more chiselled and elongated. La Nomade is our Saumur Rouge, still Cabernet Franc, but because the vines are on clay, it gives something a bit spicier and bolder. Two different wines to love.

CFC: You are new to Cabernet Franc as a winemaker. What is the best piece of advice you’ve received about working with Cabernet Franc?

EM: I would quote Guillaume Pire from Château de Fosse Sèche, who says: Cabernet Franc picking date is now. Not the day before, and not the day after. There is a bit of room for mistakes for beginners, but at Domaine Moly we’d rather pick a day early than a day too late.

CFC: Last question: if you could describe Cabernet Franc in three words, what would those three words be for you?

EM: Spice. Fresh. Energy.

For more on the wines from Domaine Moly, check out this feature on the estate:

So then, why Cabernet Franc?

Well, to me, you are perfect.

You are resilient. For over two thousand years, you have quietly woven your way through the world of wine, subtly rooting yourself everywhere, surviving and thriving when others have fallen out of favour.

You are adaptable, malleable, flexible. You embrace the cold and you retain your composure when things get a little hot. Whatever the season, whatever the situation, you deliver your best - serious and contemplative, cheerful and friendly, or something in between.

You are the ultimate team player. You work well with others and never demand to be the center of attention. You put in the work, though sometimes no one would even know you were there. But, I guarantee you, they would miss you if you were gone.

You thrive independently. You are never compelled to be in the spotlight - though when given the chance to speak up, you are always grateful for the opportunity to express yourself, which you do modestly and respectfully.

You are down to earth and approachable. You are equally at home curled up on the couch with a good book as you are engaged in lively conversation at a dinner party. You know how to meet people where they’re at, and you do so without pretence or agenda.

You are candid and sensitive. You are keenly aware of your surroundings, and when you are rooted in the right place, those that care about you will know. You are as honest a grape as there ever was.

You can be a bit shy and guarded. It’s in your nature. You need to know you’re in good hands. A little time can do wonders, and when you’re ready to come out of your shell, the reward is companionship and loyalty.

You can be spicy, quirky, and, at times, a little green and unruly - but that’s part of your charm. You are perfect in your imperfections.

You know your way around the kitchen. Convivial and generous, you have a gift for the table, effortlessly enhancing everything around you, but never stealing the show.

You are my comfort, my joy, my endless source of inspiration. You challenge me - in the best way possible. Wherever you are, I am home.

Your future is bright. People are starting to take notice of your virtues. And I, like the passionate souls far and wide who have become enchanted by your beauty, personality and complexity, will continue to champion you - in your image, steadfastly and humbly - so that others can begin to appreciate the many gifts you bring to the world.

Because some relationships are for life.

Cabernet Franc, je t’aime plus que tout.

For more than 20 vintages, Benoît Amirault has been shaping the domaine's direction building on the important groundwork laid by his father, Yannick, in the 1980s and 90s. Founded in Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, the estate now spans 20 hectares across the two appellations, and Benoît brings precision and thoughtfulness to his work, and a near-obsessive focus on highlighting the fruit character in Cabernet Franc - a common thread that weaves its way through their entire range of wines.

We had some extra time to catch up on my last visit to the domaine, and what follows is a short, candid conversation about terroir, technique, and one producer's singular pursuit to craft Cabernet Franc that speaks of grape and place.

CFC: The origins of the domaine are in Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, but you also have parcels in Bourgueil. For someone unfamiliar with the differences between the two appellations, what are the key characteristics that distinguish them?

BA: Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil is a single-village appellation - there is only one village producing these wines, so it's a bit more homogeneous. Bourgueil, on the other hand, covers seven villages, which makes it more fragmented and more varied in terms of soil type and climate. Even though they are neighbouring appellations, there are real subtleties and genuine variations in temperature and in grape ripening. For example, the further east you go, the later the harvest. So naturally, you'll find a slightly wider variety of wine styles in Bourgueil than in Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil.

CFC: Among the domaine's wines, Côte 50 and La Source are the most approachable being the estate’s early-drinking cuvées. How would you describe the differences between them?

BA: La Source comes from gravelly soils that ripen very early in Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil. It makes a very playful, lively, easy-drinking style. A very approachable wine. Côte 50 is its equivalent in Bourgueil, named for the band of sand and gravel sitting at 50 metres elevation above the Loire River. We're still talking about soils that produce grapes that ripen quite easily, but with a little more character in the Côte 50. There's more variability, more subtle nuance across the parcels. It's a touch richer and more complex in terms of the soils.

CFC: You’ve now completed more than twenty vintages at the domaine. If you could offer one piece of advice to a winemaker working with Cabernet Franc in another region of the world, in the vineyard or in the cellar, what would it be?

BA: It’s very difficult to give advice on making Cabernet Franc, because every year we ask ourselves the same questions. What I’m always looking for in my wines is fruit because for me, that’s the hardest thing to achieve, and the hardest thing to preserve, right through to when the bottle is opened and the wine is in the glass. Cabernet Franc can be a little austere, a little closed, so making wines that are open and fruit-forward that is the greatest challenge. It’s difficult to give specific advice on winemaking or in the vineyard because we’re no better than anyone else.

CFC: And yet I think you’ve succeeded with that openness of fruit. Is there something specific - extraction levels, work with sulphur - that helps you achieve it?

BA: What helps us is having grapes that are ripe. We aim for consistent, thorough ripeness. Hand-harvesting isn’t everything, but it’s a small advantage in minimizing the varietal character of Cabernet Franc. We’ll have Cabernet Franc’s DNA no matter what we do - we’re in the Loire, in a temperate climate, so those varietal notes will always be present to some degree. But to capture the fruit, we minimize extraction, starting with ripe grapes, and allow a relatively long maceration. We also work with very little sulphur, none at harvest, for example. And in the life of the wine, fruit is volatile, it can slip away. So, we rack as little as possible, and we’re very precise about oxygen exposure during aging. Anything that’s lost, you won’t get back.

CFC: Is there a Cabernet Franc from outside your own cellar, from another domaine in Bourgueil or elsewhere in the Loire, that you’ve tasted recently and really loved?

BA: There are things that interest me greatly. I have colleagues with a very different approach to Cabernet Franc than mine. I love young Cabernet Franc, especially when it’s fruit-forward, and honestly, I’m not a great lover of old wines. But I’ve been pleasantly surprised sometimes by older vintages from colleagues, where they’ve produced something enduring and timeless.

CFC: A particular wine or specific domaine?

BA: Les Frères Gambier, for example.

CFC: Last question: if you could describe Cabernet Franc in three words - words that speak to the sensibility of this grape, its identity - what would those three words be for you?

BA: Vibrancy. And definitely fruit, because I’m obsessed with it. And then a certain generosity. Generosity in the substance of the wine and in the way it’s enjoyed, its drinkability. These are vibrant, fruity, generous wines. Not powerful, but... they give something.

CFC: And I find that generosity of spirit in all the wines of the domaine. And I think that’s a wonderful word to end on. Thank you so much for your time. This was a real pleasure. Santé!

For more on the wines from Domaine Yannick Amirault, check out some of the below posts:

In addition to the Finger Lakes report that I mentioned in last month’s Tasting Diaries, I am also finishing two other major reports including a regional report on South Africa and the 2025 Cabernet Franc Global Vintage Report. (I’ve linked the 2024 report below.)

If you have been following and reading my work for some time now, you will have noticed the lack of Bordeaux content. While Cabernet Franc plantings in Bordeaux are significant - about one third of the global plantings, a little less than the Loire - it generally plays a supporting role in blends alongside Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Merlot, and my mission has always been to highlight Cabernet Franc as the star. But the times they are a-changin’, and there are more and more single varietal Cabernet Francs being made in the region and producers that are putting an increased focus on the variety. In light of this, I currently have two features in the works: one on the 2023s from St-Émilion’s Château Jean Faure, whose Grand Vin has been Cabernet Franc-led for over 150 years and might be one of the best value St-Émilion Grand Crus out there, and also a profile on up-and-coming vigneron Hugues Laborde, whose “L’Instant H” range features three single varietal Cabernet Francs from three distinct limestone terroirs across Entre-Deux-Mers, Fronsac and St-Émilion.

From the United States, I am working on producer and regional features from another under-represented area on Cab Franc Chronicles: the Pacific Northwest. From Washington State, I am writing a feature on Walla Walla’s Echolands Winery, a project launched in 2018 by Master Sommelier and Master of Wine Doug Frost and fellow Kansas City native Brad Bergman. Doug is a big fan of Cabernet Franc, and I featured his 2019 Blue Mountain Vineyard Cabernet Franc a few years ago, and I look forward to sharing the latest updates from his project. Also from Washington State, I will be doing a feature on the Rattlesnake Hills AVA, a sub-AVA of the Yakima Valley. In recent vintages in “the Hills,” as it is known locally, Cabernet Franc appears to be emerging as a key standalone variety, so my report will highlight wines from several producers including Andrew Will, Covington Cellars, Dineen Vineyards, Pollard Per Se, Sheridan Vineyard, Two Mountain Winery and Whitman Hill Winery. And while Oregon’s claim to fame is Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc plantings are minuscule, Bree Stock MW of Limited Addition Wines is betting on its potential for the future in the Eola-Amity Hills sub-AVA of the Willamette Valley, and I will be profiling her work Cabernet Franc in an upcoming feature.

Finally, from California, I have articles coming up featuring two producers who are doing more than their fair share preaching the Cabernet Franc gospel, both regionally and globally: Paso Robles based LXV Wines and the Livermore Valley’s Steven Kent Winery. LXV Wines founders Nitta and Kunal Mittal not only produce Cabernet Franc, but they are the founders of Cab Franc Masters, an annual event that focuses on Paso Robles Cabernet Franc that takes place around Cab Franc Day (December 4th). And US-wide, there is possibly no person more passionate about Cabernet Franc than Steven Mirassou, who makes several expressions (upwards of a dozen each vintage!) at his namesake winery in Livermore, and has been instrumental in elevating Cabernet Franc as the Livermore Valley’s signature red variety and whose Cab Franc-a-Palooza annual event brings together dozens of US and international wineries for a daylong event celebrating the variety.

And for my die hard Loire Cabernet Franc fans, rest assured, there is plenty of Loire-focused profiles, interviews and reports in the hopper to look forward to, especially as I head back to the region in the coming weeks.

That’s a wrap on May. It’s been a busy one! Each of these features represents weeks of tastings, research, and conversation, and if this preview is any indication, the next few months are shaping up to be some of the most content-rich to date on Cab Franc Chronicles. And I’m genuinely excited to bring it all to you.

If you don’t want to miss any of what’s coming, a subscription is the best way to stay in the loop. And for a limited time, I’m offering an additional 15% off your first year on an annual subscription (a savings of up to 35% versus paying monthly). And, as always, thank you for reading, and for your continued enthusiasm and support.

Ironically, it wouldn’t be until the winter of 2021 that I actually tasted my first Cabernet Franc from Domaine Arnaud Lambert - the 2019 Saumur Rouge “Clos Mazurique” - a wine that, perhaps unsurprisingly, did not disappoint and has remained tattooed in my memory ever since. I met Arnaud for the first time in May 2022 as part of my first “official” trip to the Loire. During our more than five hour long visit, we visited some key vineyard parcels, dug holes in the vineyards to look at the textures of the soils, and tasted through multiple vintages of his Cabernet Francs, all the while he shared his journey as a vigneron emphasizing that understanding his soils was the most important jumping off point for how he approaches his wines in the cellar. A journey that is dynamic and presents new challenges with each subsequent vintage.

Over four years and many subsequent visits with Arnaud later, he has become one of my go-to vignerons to answer technical questions relating to Cabernet Franc, and he is always open and willing to share his experiences, key learnings, and, perhaps most humbly, his mistakes. While I adore the entire range of Cabernet Francs from Domaine Arnaud Lambert, the Clos Mazurique has a special place in my heart, and upon realizing I had a mini 5-year vertical in my cellar, it seemed only appropriate to do a deep dive into this vineyard and wine.

The Vineyard: A Clos with Character

Arnaud Lambert’s Mazurique is coming from a 3.7-hectare parcel of on average 40-year-old Cabernet Franc vines in the commune of Bréze, about 10km south of the Loire River. The lieu-dit is in the southwestern part of Brézé, and while the parcels are on a south-facing slope, this is a decidedly cooler site for Cabernet Franc, with budbreak and harvest typically later than average. In terms of soils, these also contribute to the “coolness” of this vineyard. The parcels have about 50cm of a predominantly clayey topsoil (argilo-limoneuse is about 40% clay content) over the Middle Turonian white tuffeau chalk, and the topsoil is quite stony, about 50% stoniness.

When it comes to this vineyard and what we taste in the glass, there are two important forces at play. Firstly, there is the “coolness” of this site. In my tasting experience, regardless of vintage, Mazurique presents in a very “cool,” almost brisk, way. Think: walking through an evergreen forest in early spring, surrounded by spruce and fir trees with a bit of snow on the ground that has yet to melt. There is a pristine nature about the wine, and it always exhibits a great deal of clarity and freshness in the glass. This “cool” energy also does mean that this wine can show a bit austere on release.

In addition to the coolness of the site, the combination of very clayey though shallow topsoil with a high proportion stones creates a growing environment that has a certain “strength” to it. The nature of clay, with its higher water holding capacity, gives more “power” to the vine to develop physiologically and phenolically. This, coupled with the yield-restricting nature of the shallow and stony topsoil, gives fruit with a lot of “matière”1 to work with in the cellar, which has ultimately shaped how Arnaud has evolved his approach for this wine in the cellar.

Winemaking: Rigour and Self-Reflection

For Arnaud, understanding the strong signature that the Mazurique soils bring to the table has been essential in informing how he works with that fruit in the cellar to not only communicate a sense of place but to do so in a style that fits within the estate’s range of Cabernet Francs. This rigour and self-reflection, coupled with a desire to create a wine with early-drinking accessibility while honouring vintage variation, made it clear that a fixed cellar “recipe” was not the right approach.

As it relates to Mazurique in particular and getting the optimal expression of the place and grape, there are a few elements to the winemaking process that have remained consistent over the years and some that Arnaud has evolved with his understanding of vineyard and how to work with Cabernet Franc in the cellar. The cuvée Mazurique is fermented is with indigenous yeast in a combination of stainless steel and/or concrete depending on the vintage, with a portion of the fruit (about 25%) seeing a shorter time on skins (about 8-10 days) and a the balance receiving a longer extended maceration (3 weeks). The élevage is relatively short, about 8 months, and also in stainless steel or concrete.

What has evolved over the years as it relates to Mazurique in particular is Arnaud’s approach to extractions. When I asked him to reflect on the vintages that I was going to be tasting for this article and how he’s made changes over the years, he noted that he is now taking a much gentler approach to cap management. For the 2019 vintage, he performed a 20 minute pump-over twice daily (morning and evening), an approach that gave more tannin structure than he wanted. Over time, he has modified his approach: 15 minutes twice daily in 2020, 10 minutes twice daily in 2021, 5 minutes in 2022, and in 2023 arriving to the conclusion that a one minute wetting of the cap once a day was sufficient to achieve the “right” level of extraction and volume and texture of tannins for this cuvée.

Arnaud seeks purity, clarity and transparency in his Cabernet Francs, not perfection. That willingness to question what worked before in pursuit of something truer is rare. When a winemaker brings that level of rigour and honest self-appraisal to an “entry-level” cuvée, it is a reliable signal of what defines the domaine as a whole and is a quiet guarantee to the wine drinker that the same standard extends through every wine Arnaud makes.

Tasting Notes and Observations

So, what defines Mazurique the wine in terms of what we taste in the glass? From tasting these five vintages, 2019 to 2023, there are a few things that immediately jump out. As I noted above, the wine always has a “cooling” energy, regardless of vintage. This comes across in two ways: first, aromatically, presenting with distinct cooling herbal aromas (think: sage, mint, foresty undertones) and, second, structurally, in that it can be a little austere on release. This is also a deliciously spicy expression of Cabernet Franc that comes through in the most complex of array of peppercorns (green, pink, sometimes white) and also heady aroma of freshly grated nutmeg.

Structurally, I think what defines Mazurique are the tannins, which I think reflect not only the clayey nature of the soils but also the impact of the tuffeau chalk bedrock. The tannins are impeccably fine, silky, and enveloping. When young, they have a texture not too dissimilar to a fine potter’s clay with the same density and a bit of stickiness. Over time, they become more refined, elongated, giving way to a bit more of a light chalkiness on the finish. The wine combines class and accessibility with impressive ease. And perhaps most importantly, this is a wine that overdelivers on what it means to be an “early-drinking” Cabernet Franc. Yes, there is superb drinkability. Yes, there is ease and elegance. But there is also depth, complexity and plenty of substance for aging. At $25USD/15EUR, this wine ranks up there with some of the Loire Valley’s great Cabernet Franc values that does double duty: drinking well young and offering compelling potential for aging.

2023 Saumur Rouge “Mazurique” (12.5% abv.): Fragrant and perfumed, red and dark forest-berry fruits lead (black and red raspberry, morello cherry) with a medley of cooling herbal notes (sage, basil, thyme, tarragon) playing a supporting role. Fresh and lively with spicier undertones on the palate of green and pink peppercorn and high-toned lift of freshly grated nutmeg. Pure, fresh, inviting, the wine has juicy, cleansing acidity and very fine, silky tannins that provide an enveloping mouthfeel that is round and lush while still feeling discreet. The structure frames a beautifully pure-fruited core that delivers instant pleasure and ease. Medium-bodied, welcoming, refined. This vintage feels like it delivered all of the elements to arrive at a “textbook” expression of Mazurique.

2022 Saumur Rouge “Mazurique” (14.0% abv.): Compared to even six months ago, the 2022 vintage has really come into its own. Lifted, open, with depth and nuance, time has done this warm, generous expression of Mazurique plenty of favours. The red and dark berried fruits remain consistent, but lean a little sweeter (Bing cherry, strawberry, black raspberry), with twiggy herbs (rosemary, thyme) balancing beautifully, alongside a warming vein of star anise and nutmeg. On the palate, I feel like the strength of the site really come through with very fine, enveloping, crushed velvet tannins that evoke image of potter’s clay. The acidity, while soft, is luscious and mouthwatering, and it marries beautifully with round, generous mouthfeel, and through the finish is a peppercorn melange (pink, green, white) that provides a nice counterpoint and energy through the finish. This wine defies the logic of what an “entry-level” Loire Cabernet Franc can be. This is part vintage but also part vineyard, but it feels undeniably Mazurique to me.

2021 Saumur Rouge “Clos Mazurique” (13.0% abv.): Of this vertical, this is the only “cool” more “classic” Loire vintage. I haven’t revisited the 2021 in some time, and I recall it being a bit closed when I tasted it last. Today, this wine is SO open, so present and enchanting. Leading with more spice and herbal undertones (green and pink peppercorn, nutmeg, sage, basil, spruce tips), which is supported by the same red and black fruited signature. Beautifully transparent and pure, with an undeniable vigour and energy that is characteristic of a cool vintage and a persistent liquorice-laced spicy finish. The focused almost nervy acidity frames the firm, chalky tannins well, while the fruit is a bit lighter in concentration, it still envelops the palate and provides a complete, balanced palate experience. It doesn’t have the bravado of the 2022, but it is just so friendly and scrumptious. A leaner, more ligérien expression of Mazurique, and one that I think will continue to deliver pleasure for at least another 5 or more years.

2020 Saumur Rouge “Clos Mazurique” (13.0% abv.): In keeping with what I’ve tasted from warmer/riper vintages, like 2020, for Cabernet Franc in the Loire, the noble herbaceous side started to shine through with a little bit of age. Open and nuanced, the sweet-succulent red and dark fruits show through transparently; very in line with the 2022. The herbal and spicy side is lifted and invigorating, with notes of dried sage, rosemary, a touch of nettle, green peppercorn and a distinct menthol edge, while the tertiary evolution provides grounding notes of damp autumn leaves, morel mushroom and fennel seed. The acidity is soft, but refreshing, and the tannins are decidedly firm and a touch more sinewy, though they finish sleek and elegant. Plush, enveloping, this wine overdelivers on concentration and complexity, with a refined structure and plenty of savoury deliciousness. While showing a bit more evolution, there is enough stuffing here that the wine should still continue to evolve nicely over the medium term.

2019 Saumur Rouge “Clos Mazurique” (13.0% abv.): The nose is quite fragrant and perfumed, and not only shows a little “less ripe” than the 2020 but also more primary and less evolved. It still has a strong vein of youthfulness, which is really compelling. It leads with characteristic red and black fruits that are sweeter but fresh (cherry, black raspberry), and the herbal undertones are on equal footing as the fruit, though the herbals are much more menthol-driven with notes of mint (so much mint!), rosemary, with touch of freshly cut Fraser fir on an early December day. The nose and palate bring with them added layers of spice and pepperiness (cinnamon, nutmeg, green peppercorn) with added layers of graphite, liquorice and a hint of wormwood. The vibrant and persistent acidity weaves with silky, enrobing tannins that have a touch more of a fine, chalky grip through the finish. Elegantly structured, luxuriously textured, concentrated, compelling, while having all of the moreish drinkability that I’ve come to love from this cuvée. This has a long life ahead of it.

I would argue that the one thing that truly makes Cabernet Franc the ultimate wine to enjoy with food is the very thing that makes this grape polarizing for so many - that is, its green side. This herbal, earthy, savoury, and vegetal dimension is inherent to the grape’s DNA; it needs to be there for Cabernet Franc to be Cabernet Franc. Too often it is reduced to a conversation about methoxypyrazines rearing their ugly head when the grape is underripe, or erroneously oversimplifying it outright as green bell pepper (a topic that warrants a dedicated post!). Cabernet Franc’s green edge is far more complex and nuanced than that, and it is precisely that complexity that makes it one of the most companionable and versatile wines on the table.

In blanc de noir or white expressions of Cabernet Franc, the green side of the grape tends to be more delicate and subtle. These wines often carry wispy herbal aromatics, such as fennel frond, celery leaf, white currant, and chervil, woven with soft floral notes that suggest a springlike freshness that feels light as air. These wines belong alongside foods like freshly shucked oysters with a cucumber mignonette, young, creamy chèvre, barely dressed spring greens, or simply steamed asparagus or artichokes with a bright vinaigrette. The green edge here is never assertive, rather it does quiet yet important work on the table being a natural foil for some of Mother Nature’s verdant delicacies that are at their best when prepared simply and cleanly.

In rosé expressions of Cabernet Franc, this is perhaps where the grape’s green and earthy character is at its most playful - lifted, luminous, and lively with notes of rhubarb, lemon thyme, lime zest, basil, and lilac - and yet it never loses its footing. This is what separates a Cabernet Franc rosé from so many of its peers. Rosé, as a style, can too easily tip into caricature: all candy-bright fruit and no anchor, pretty in the glass but adrift at the table. Cabernet Franc’s inherent herbaceousness pulls it back to earth, quite literally, grounding the wine’s fruit in something savoury and real. The result is a rosé that is as comfortable as an apéritif alongside prosciutto with melon or radishes with cultured butter and sea salt as it is with a panzanella salad, an asparagus and goat cheese tart, herby steamed mussels, or a long, unhurried al fresco lunch. It bridges the gap between white and red effortlessly. There really is, as I have said before, a Cabernet Franc rosé for just about every occasion.

In cooler climates and vintages, Cabernet Franc arrives at something that feels unmistakably like home. This is the grape in its most elemental expression - pure, precise, and alive with the scents of a country garden after rain. Fresh herbs weave through the glass gracefully: thyme, rosemary, tarragon, mint, sage. Beneath them, lush foresty notes of cedar, moss, ferns and rich humus ground the wine in something restorative - the kind of earthiness that clears the head and quiets the noise. There is no pomp and circumstance here, just approachability and ease. And at the table, they behave the same way. These are wines that meet you where you’re at. They are equally happy alongside a simple roast chicken, your favourite pasta, grilled steak, a plate of charcuterie, or a slow-cooked Sunday stew. The herb-laced earthiness of the wine doesn’t demand a particular kind of cooking; it asks only that you sit down, pour a glass, and enjoy. Comforting, generous, and unfailingly good company, these expressions remind you that Cabernet Franc brings its best self when enjoyed alongside food.

Move into warmer climates and sunnier vintages, and the green side of Cabernet Franc doesn’t disappear - it transforms. The herbal spectrum gives way to something decidedly more Mediterranean in feel: bay leaf, garrigue, oregano, marjoram, green and black olive, cypress. These flavours speak to a sun-drenched hillside rather than a cool country garden, and they serve an entirely different function at the table. Here, the grape’s herbal and savoury character becomes a counterweight to richness. A warmer-climate Cabernet Franc, with its fuller body and deeper herbal undertones, is exactly what you want alongside slow-braised lamb shank, spice-rubbed pork ribs, comforting eggplant parm, or a deeply flavoured beef cheek daube. The wine’s aromatic complexity doesn’t compete with the richness of these preparations; it cuts through it and ties the whole experience together.

With time, the green side of Cabernet Franc undergoes its most remarkable transformation. The fresh herbs and earth of its youth slowly give way to something more autumnal and otherworldly: sous bois, dried autumn leaves, forest floor, desiccated violets, wild mushroom, petrichor, tobacco, cigar box. These are the tertiary aromas that only age can coax out of the wine, and it is here the argument for Cabernet Franc as the ultimate food wine comes full circle. Where the wine’s greenness was once the quality that gave pause to the skeptic, with sufficient bottle age it becomes the very thing that makes the wine extraordinary at the table. Cabernet Franc with a bit of age calls for dishes with similar depth and complexity: a wild mushroom risotto, a navarin of lamb, slow-roasted game, roasted root vegetables, dishes made with hearty grains like farro or barley. The marriage of wine and food here is earthy, layered, and deeply satisfying in a way that feels less like a pairing and more like a reunion.

Across every expression, every climate, every stage of its evolution, the thread remains the same. Cabernet Franc’s green DNA is the grape’s humble superpower. A spectrum so broad and so nuanced that it can whisper of fennel and chervil in a blanc de noir, anchor with rhubarb and lemon thyme in rosé, sing of sage and cedar in a cool-climate red, invigorate with garrigue and cypress with the warmth of the sun, and, with time, transform into something altogether more compelling and profound. At every point along that spectrum, Cabernet Franc knows its purpose. It asks for nothing, demands no particular occasion or elaborate preparation. It simply shows up at the table, looks up at you, and says: how can I help. Effortless, generous, and candid to its core, it elevates whatever you put in front of it. A food wine at its very best - the way nature intended.

It would be a few more years before I met Éric in person, at Les Vignerons Dans la Ville in Chinon in 2024, and a few more still before I finally made it to the domaine itself on a rather dreary February day earlier this year. Some things are worth the wait.

The Domaine

The origins of Domaine Dozon date back to the 1950s, when Jean-Marie Dozon established the domaine with the 14 hectares of vines in the lieu-dit Le Saut au Loup that were purchased by his grandfather in the late 1930s. Jean-Marie worked alongside his father Paul for many decades before handing off the domaine to his daughter Laure Dozon in 1999. After marrying a vigneron from Bourgueil, Laure made the decision to sell the family domaine in 2013 to Chinon-native Éric Santier.

While from Chinon, Éric did not grow up in a family of vignerons, though felt deeply connected to the region’s agricultural heritage. His first career was spent working for SOPEXA as an international marketing manager for agro-food products. Feeling the call to the land, Éric made the decision to change careers in 2010, pursuing a viticulture and oenology degree in Bordeaux, followed by a two-year stint working at Domaine Bernard Baudry in Cravant-les-Côteaux, before becoming propriétaire-vigneron at Domaine Dozon in 2013.

Over the last decade, and with no concrete succession plan in place, Éric had been quietly seeking a partner who could help ensure the longevity of the domaine and bring fresh momentum to what he had built. In late 2025, Éric was introduced to a passionate wine enthusiast who had family roots near Chinon named Thibault Caillemer du Ferrage who was interested in investing in the domaine sharing both Éric's conviction in the potential of the Le Saut au Loup terroir and his vision for its future.

The Vineyards

Domaine Dozon’s Cabernet Franc vines are all planted in a single lieu-dit, Le Saut au Loup - a name that likely referenced a nearby spring (“saut” in old French meant spring) that was a source of drinking water for the wolves (“loup(s)”) and other animal life living in the nearby forests. It is worth noting that this is a highly regarded and historic lieu-dit, first being referenced in the national archives dating to 1643, and the lieu-dit appeared on the first Cassini map of France dating to 1765. From a viticultural perspective, Le Saut au Loup was classified as a “premier cru” site in the Annuaire des Marques et Appellations d’Origine des Vins, Eaux-de-Vie et Spiritueux de France in the 1940s, one of the country’s earliest modern-day reference guides for its vineyards, producers and wines.

Le Saut au Loup is located in the western part of the Ligré commune, following the eastern border of neighbouring La Roche-Clermault, and is a stone’s throw from other notable lieux-dits including Le Vau Breton, Noblaie, and Vindoux. The commune of Ligré sits on the south side, or left bank, of the Vienne River, directly opposite the eastern part of the Chinon commune. Uniquely, Ligré does not border the Vienne directly: the commune of Rivière occupies the riverbank, and Ligré is set further back to the south. As a result, none of the vineyards in Ligré sit on any of the alluvial soils found close to the river.

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Even on the poorest of weather days, it is impossible not to feel a certain energy when standing among the vines in this lieu-dit. Situated on a prime, south to southeast-facing slope, the vineyard is surrounded by forest to the north, east and west, which not only gives an air of mystique and privacy, but it also serves to enhance the natural ecosystem of the vineyard and protects it from the cold northerly winds.

The undulating topography and range of elevations across northern Ligré gives us the complex underlying geology of Le Saut au Loup. Rising in elevation from around 82m above sea level at the bottom of the slope to around 100m at the top of the slope, the vineyard can be divided into roughly three main parts.

At the top of the slope and the plateau sitting just above, there is a mix of deeper soils, lighter textured silty-sands and heavier sandy-clays with flint, with the fruit from these parcels beings used for the cuvées Le Petit Chemin, Le Chemin Travers(e) and Éric’s Chinon Rosé. The heart of the lieu-dit is the 7-hectare “clos,” which is the source of the domaine’s Le Clos du Saut au Loup cuvée. The clos, which was indeed enclosed by walls centuries ago, represents the mid- to upper third of the slope with a sandy-clay topsoil with a high proportion of flint stones and pebbles throughout, which sits atop the Upper Turonian yellow tuffeau chalk bedrock. As you move down the slope, the soil becomes increasingly more influenced by the Upper Turonian yellow tuffeau chalk, with a slightly shallower, heavier clay topsoil, and these parcels are the source of the domaine’s Le Grand Saut cuvée.

Across the lieu-dit, the vines are older and well-established, ranging in age from 35 to 60 years of age. Upon Éric’s arrival in 2013, some of the vineyard parcels were already being farmed organically, so he continued this work beginning organic conversion in earnest in 2020, and as of the 2023 vintage the domaine’s vineyards and wines are certified organic.

The Wines

In the cellar, Éric crafts his reds to reflect the same thoughtful, respectful approach that he takes with his vineyard work. With a little over a decade under his belt at the domaine, he has continuously refined his work in the chai with a sensitivity that respects the potential of the vintage based on what Mother Nature brings to the fold each year. Today, his fermentations are a little cooler (22-25C versus 28C) and his approach to extractions is more gentle, with his current vintages showing beautiful purity and freshness of fruit and a bit more polish.

Éric approaches his work as the custodian of this vineyard in a measured, thoughtful manner and with a deep respect for the terroir entrusted to him. A relative newcomer to the vocation, he farms revered ground with a care and meticulousness that speaks to the weight of that responsibility. That awareness seems to sharpen rather than constrain him, and the wines that result are honest, candid, genuine. They are well-intentioned expressions of the lieu-dit Le Saut au Loup rather than exercises in winemaker ego or mastery.

At the heart of the range sits the cuvée Le Clos du Saut au Loup, the domaine’s flagship, and it is here that Éric’s vision is most fully realized. A wine that is layered and finesse-driven, with depth and real character. Accessible and unpretentious, the range as a whole carries the humble assurance of a vigneron who has learned to trust the site. These are wines that wear their Chinon heritage with pride, befitting the prestige of this “premier cru” lieu-dit.

Le Petit Chemin & Le Chemin Travers(e): Sourced from the top of the slope and plateau, these two cuvées represent the domaine’s vins de soif, or early-drinking expressions. Both are fermented in fibreglass or concrete tank depending on the vintage, vinified at cooler temperatures and have a slightly shorter cuvaison of 8 to 10 days. Le Chemin Travers(e) sees no sulphur during the fermentation and aging, just a low dose at bottling.

Le Clos du Saut au Loup: Representing a little over 50% of the volume of the domaine’s production is the cuvée Le Clos du Saut au Loup, which comes from vines contained within the 7-hectare former walled clos. As the domaine’s most “visible” cuvée in France and export markets, Éric has evolved his approach with this wine over the year’s with the desire to more purely express the terroir of this premier cru-level vineyard. From 2013 to 2018, this cuvée was aged in a combination of concrete tank and foudres, and since 2019 Éric has opted to use exclusively concrete for the aging to highlight the purity of fruit and essence of place.

Le Grand Saut: The top expression from Le Saut au Loup is Le Grand Saut, from more tuffeau-dominated parcels towards the bottom of the slope. Éric’s experience has taught him that this type of soil imparts a natural structure to the finished wine, which can benefit from oak aging to help round out and refine the otherwise firmer, more angular tannins. After a slightly longer time on skins, about 4 weeks, he opts to age the wine in older barrels (3 to 6 years old) that are mostly 225L and 228L barriques, with a few 300L barriques depending on the volume of the vintage.

Other Wines: Éric also makes a Chinon Rosé (“Le Petit Chemin” Chinon Rosé), and for some reason we neglected to taste it while I was at the domaine. I blame the rather dreary, miserably cold, wet day when I visited the domaine in February. It was just not a day to appreciate rosé! I will remedy this on a future visit to the Loire and include notes in a post down the road.

Tasting Notes: Current Vintages

“Le Petit Chemin” 2024 Chinon (12% abv., SRP 12EUR): The nose displays the delicate, perfumed side of the vintage leaning more earthy and herbal as opposed to fruity. Sprightly, small red berries mixing with notes of fresh cedar and thyme with a hint of rose, and green and white peppercorn spice and a touch of graphite through the finish. Juicy, lively with fine, firm tannins that have a delicate chew through the finish. Energetic, peppery, and deliciously charming from start to finish.

“Le Chemin Travers(e)” 2024 Chinon (12% abv., SRP 12.60EUR): The 2024 Le Chemin Travers(e) uses a small portion of whole cluster layered with the destemmed fruit (“mille-feuille” technique). Opening with fresh, exuberant red and blue fruits that have a hint of a candied undertone thanks to a bit of the semi-carbonic nature of the fermentation, which gives the aromatics a youthful vitality. Wispy, soft herbs (basil, tarragon), delicate florals and piquant, chilli flake spice. The palate is soft with a core of juicy, mouthwatering acidity and fine, silky tannins. Supple and round, instantly enjoyable.

“Le Clos du Saut au Loup” 2023 Chinon (12.5% abv., SRP 16.80EUR/$28USD): The nose immediately invites you into the glass with a depth and concentrated fruit character of black raspberry, blackcurrant, and a hint of sweet cherry. More fruit-driven than earthy, notes of cedar leaves and wood with a touch of tobacco play a supporting role on the nose. The palate is anchored by cleansing acidity, densely packed, velvety tannins, and a deliciously round, fruit-filled core, leading to an herbal (thyme) and floral (violets) finish that gives a sense of lift and elegance to the palate experience. Layered, finesse-driven, this has terrific potential for aging, but its wonderfully charming and accessible now.

“Le Clos du Saut au Loup” 2022 Chinon (14.0% abv.): A concentrated and ripe sweet berry nose that leans a bit more dark fruited (plump black raspberry, blueberry) is given a bit of levity from herbal undertones of sous bois, bay leaf and rosemary. Not overtly floral at the moment, but there is an underlying compressed violet note lingering in the background. It’s lively acidity is perhaps a bit muted at this stage being blanketed by beautifully plush fruit, but there is plenty of life and vibrancy to carry this wine for long term cellaring. The palate is round, with densely-packed, fine, sinewy tannins and a lovely earth-driven, enveloping fruit core that layers in graphite and allspice. Superb balance, restraint and approachability for the vintage.

“Le Grand Saut” 2023 Chinon (13.0% abv., SRP 20.40EUR): Open and perfumed nose inviting you in with fresh red and dark fruits (ripe raspberry, cherry, bramble) and floral undertones of rose and violets. The fragrant nose is supported by delicate and lush herbal notes on the nose and palate, while the palate showcases vibrant, mouth-watering acidity weaving with chalky, firm tannins. Very pretty, elegantly framed, with a round, enveloping mid-palate, and concluding with a delicately spiced (cardamom, nutmeg), graphite-anchored, long finish. A beautifully measured, thoughtful expression of Cabernet Franc from Chinon. Consider decanting now for optimal enjoyment.

Tasting Notes: Back Vintages

“Le Clos du Saut au Loup” 2021 Chinon (13.0% abv.): Very pretty, inviting nose that leans in the sweet-tart red fruit spectrum (raspberry, cran-raspberry juice), with soft, wispy herbs, layered with delicate violet and lilac undertones. The perfumed nose continues on the palate with a touch of spearmint and liquorice. The palate is oh-so succulent, with a bright and juicy middle palate that weaves gracefully with firm, velvety tannin. Round, persistent, demure, balanced. Like so many of the 2021s I have had in recent months, this has entered a beautiful drinking window, and I think the fruit vibrancy and concentration will easily carry this wine for another 10+ years.

“Le Clos du Saut au Loup” 2020 Chinon (13.5% abv.): Welcoming nose, with riper, slightly liquoreux fruit with notes of cherry, kirsch, black raspberry, mixing with cedar leaves and wood, dark earth, cured black olive, soft white floral undertones, graphite and spice. The palate showcases vibrant, lingering acidity, and firm, chewy tannins, with plenty of flesh and roundness leading to a focused, spice-driven (cinnamon, black peppercorn, star anise) finish. The fruit feels a little shy on the palate at the moment, compared to the 2022 and 2021, but I think this will open back up in a few years time.

“Le Clos du Saut au Loup” 2019 Chinon (13.5% abv.): Beautifully aromatic and fragrant nose leading with fresh dark berried-fruit, with invigorating notes of peppermint marrying with perfumed dried rose petal, liquorice and allspice. Vibrant, persistent acidity brings life and focus to the palate, while firm, powdery tannins provide a defined structure that yields to a voluminous, round, densely-packed fruit core. Superb balance. Drinking deliciously at the moment and shows signs that it will continue to cellar and improve over the long term.

“Le Clos du Saut au Loup” 2018 Chinon (14.0% abv.): Bright, succulent nose of beautifully ripe red and dark fruit notes (morello cherry, black raspberry, wild strawberry fruit leather) working in tandem with menthol-fleck earth (pine, rosemary), warming spices (cinnamon, Sichuan peppercorn) and the slightest hint of white chocolate/cocoa butter. Mouthwatering acidity weave with fine, silky tannins that finish with a touch of chalky grip. The pure, round, inviting palate concludes with perfumed-spicy undertones (espelette pepper, cinnamon stick) that give a sense of lift and vigour. Shows fine restraint and harmonious balance from what was an opulent, ripe vintage. Drink or hold - there is plenty of stuffing and life here. (A bottle from my personal cellar, tasted at home May 2026).

“Le Clos du Saut au Loup” 2016 Chinon (13.5% abv.): Red fruit-driven (sweet-tart fresh and dried cherries and raspberries) and showing evolved earthy notes of dried autumn leaves, dried thyme and mint, with notes of star anise, white peppercorn and cardamom carrying through the finish. The cleansing acidity provides a firm backbone alongside linen-like tannins. Lean and energetic, balanced, companionable. Drinking well for those that like old school Chinon with a bit of age. Enjoy now with roast duck leg, quail or Cornish hen.

“Le Clos du Saut au Loup” 2014 Chinon (13.0% abv.): The nose opens with a mix of red fruit and earthy-herbal notes, both beginning to lean into the dried spectrum (dried cranberry, dried cherry, dried tarragon and sage), coupled with a melange of classic spice undertones (cinnamon, clove, liquorice) and tertiary cedar wood and tobacco. The acidity is fresh and mouthwatering, the tannins are fine and chalky. Similarly to the 2016, this is a structured but svelte expression of Chinon, that is classically styled, elegant, with lovely tension and balance. Complete. Drinking well and very in keeping with other 2014s I’ve tasted from the region.

Domaine Dozon

52 Rue du Rouilly, 37500 Ligré, France

+33 2 47 93 17 67

Open to the public for tastings: Monday to Friday: 9am – 12:30pm & 2pm – 6pm; Saturday 10am to 1pm

Global Distribution: Currently available in the US (10 states), UK, Belgium, Denmark, Finland, the Maldives, Mauritius, Reunion Island, and Israel.

A large part of my focus this month was on the three new articles I published here (linked down below if you missed them) and also organizing myself for a trip to the Finger Lakes, my first visit since 2023, so that I can write a report on the region’s Cabernet Francs. With the Cab Franc Forward initiative in full swing and all of its accompanying momentum, as well as the Finger Lakes region being “in my backyard,” it was high time to get back there and get a better sense of what is going on in the region from those that live it and breathe it everyday.

I’ve highlighted a few of my Finger Lakes experiences here (a little preview of what’s to come), but throughout the month I also took some time to taste a few random treasures from my cellar. So, let’s dive in!

Domaine Xavier et Agnès Amirault (Clos des Quarterons), 2017 Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil "Les Gravilices" (12.0% abv., SRP $30USD): From older vines on very gravelly soils in St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, the estate’s "Les Gravilices” bottling always has a little more structure that their “Les Quarterons” cuvée, in part thanks to a little soupçon of old-vine Cabernet Sauvignon, but it is still very much in keeping with this earthy, soft, approachable style of Cabernet Franc. Lifted and fragrant, the nose is translucent with mostly red fruits (currant, cranberry-raspberry, with a hint of black currant and black currant leaf) and layered with a heady mix of rose florals, twiggy dried herbs (thyme, rosemary, dried mint) and peppercorn medley spice. The palate is lean and savoury, with some added tertiary layers of dried cedar, cured black olive and scorched earth. Mouth-watering, zippy acidity and soft, fine, linen-like tannins, it has good flesh through the middle palate and a lingering, round finish. This is still drinking well at nearly ten years from vintage date and nothing suggests to me that this is going to start getting tired anytime soon. Decant for optimal enjoyment, and consider serving with a slow roasted lamb shoulder.

Domaine de la Noblaie, 2022 Chinon “Les Temps de Cerises” (13.5% abv., SRP $27USD): This is the “entry-level” bottling from Domaine de la Noblaie, which comes from a mix of clay-dominated parcels in Ligré on Chinon’s left bank. The clayey impact in this wine brings much more structure than we often associated with early-drinking styles from Chinon, and that, coupled with the concentration and ripeness from the vintage, means this wine could easily go toe-to-toe with vin de garde from another producer. Vibrant and high-toned, the nose is bright and energetic with a sweet-tart, snappy dark fruit core (dark cherry, black currant, and bramble) with supporting herbal and foresty notes (rosemary, cedar wood, mint) and a touch of lavender. Clean and pure, the palate adds vivid, piquant spice (Sichuan peppercorn, cinnamon stick and chilli flake). Lively acidity and densely packed, fine, chewy tannins provide excellent framing on the palate, though it does feel a little closed based on the last time I checked in on this wine. Though some of the wine’s early baby fat has melted away and the tannins requiring a bit more time to resolve, the fruit concentration and flavour depth are more than sufficient to carry it for many years to come. Medium-bodied, approachable, contemporary, wines like this continue to confirm why Domaine de la Noblaie is in the upper echelon of Chinon estates.

Domaine des Roches Neuves, 2023 Saumur-Champigny (12.5% abv., SRP $30USD): I wanted to revisit this wine earlier in the month knowing I was going to be pouring and talking about the 2024 during an upcoming seminar in the Finger Lakes. Domaine des Roches Neuves cuvée “domaine” is from a mix of parcels, often younger blocks from their most esteemed lieux-dits, and vinified all in stainless steel. Still quite fresh, the wine is immediately charming with a nose that marries red and blue fruits (wild strawberries and blueberries on a summer afternoon) with herbal undertones of mint, tarragon and chive flowers, lifted by the prettiest floral notes of peony. There is a clarity and purity here that is a signature of Thierry and Louis Germain’s superb work with Cabernet Franc. The palate carries that same effortless energy, with mouth-watering, buoyant acidity that refreshes without austerity, and soft, satiny tannins that tighten into a fine, chalky finish for just enough structure. Medium-bodied with a subtle generosity to the fruit, this is a wine that is elegant, complete and friendly. It feels like early spring in a glass - dewy, verdant, hopeful.

Durigutti, 2021 Cabernet Franc, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina (13.9% abv., SRP $20USD): From vineyards in the sub-regions of Las Compuertas and Argelo in Luján de Cuyo, and fermented in concrete and aged in fourth-use 500L French oak barrels for 6 months, this is consistently a great benchmark Argentinian Cabernet Franc - and it has held up well in the bottle! The nose and palate show classic tertiary characteristics of warm climate Cabernet Franc with a bit of age, such as notes of dried blackberries and green fig alongside dried leaves and scorched earth, and distinctive herbal aromatics of dried bay leaf and oregano complemented by Earl Grey tea, with the bergamot adding an elegant, perfumed lift. On the palate, fresh, cleansing acidity keeps things lively, while the tannins are velvety and ripe with just a touch of sinewy chew. Full-bodied and richly textured without tipping into excess, with balancing sweet spice (quatre épices and black pepper) through the mid-palate and finish, this is a well-built Cabernet Franc with character and sense of place.

I spent all last week in the Finger Lakes, and then drove out to Long Island to be a part of Lenn Thompson’s tasting panel for his upcoming report on East Coast Cabernet Franc. After eight days and 3200km in my car, I tasted more than 250 Cabernet Francs, most of which was during my visits in the Finger Lakes.

Among the highlights from the week, I was fortunate to have had some thorough “tasting trips down memory lane” with a few producers such as Dr. Konstantin Frank, Sheldrake Point, Hermann J Wiemer, Boundary Breaks, and Master Sommelier Christopher Bates’s Element Winery, all of whom generously opened some library wines so that we explore and discuss each of their journeys making Cabernet Franc in the Finger Lakes.

I also just happened to be visiting when the annual Discover Dry Rosé tasting (organized for industry professionals) was taking place in Geneva. It isn’t often I get to taste such a diverse array of Cabernet Franc rosés in one place! Highlights from this event were some new discoveries for me including the Point of the Bluff Vineyards 2025 Rosé made by former Heron Hill winemaker Jordan Harris, the Casa Larga 2025 Rosé of Cabernet Franc from their vineyards just south of Rochester, Anthony Road’s 2025 Rosé of Cabernet Franc (their Lemberger rosé was very good too!), the floral and almost blanc de noir-pale Neverstill 2025 Rosé, and a library release from McGregor Vineyard who’s been making dry Cabernet Franc rosé since 2002, and their 2020 Rosé was showing remarkably well for being nearly six years old!

In addition to all my winery visits and other tastings, I was also in the region to give an industry seminar on Cabernet Franc, which was hosted by Forge Cellars. From all levels of the Finger Lakes wine trade - grape growers, winemakers, viticulturalists, owners, marketing managers, and more - more than fifty people gathered to gain insights into what is happening in the world of Cabernet Franc, where the Finger Lakes is positioned relative to other wine growing regions, how the region can evolve and improve their work with the variety, and why the Finger Lakes is well-positioned to become a leading benchmark region for the variety in North America.

To establish a benchmark for the attendees, I presented six Loire Valley Cabernet Francs, including the Domaine du Bel Air 2024 Bourgueil “Jour du Soif,” Domaine des Roches Neuves 2024 Saumur-Champigny, Philippe Alliet 2023 Chinon, Domaine Filliatreau 2023 Saumur-Champigny “La Grande Vignolle,” Bernard Baudry 2022 Chinon “Les Grézeaux,” Domaine des Closiers 2022 Saumur-Champigny “Les Closiers.” Not only did these wines impress for their quality and deliciousness, they also served as jumping off point for thoughtful dialogue around viticultural practices, winemaking, vintage variation, varietal character and “correctness,” communications and more. The seminar was followed by an industry social where everyone was encouraged to bring a bottle of Cabernet Franc to share, which fuelled even more curiosity and conversation.

I couldn’t be more grateful to the folks at Forge for bringing this event to life. It is my hope that industry events like this around Cabernet Franc continue with some degree of regularity, because there is no better way for an industry to move the needle qualitatively than through the kind of open, inquisitive conversation that happens when passionate people gather around a common purpose (and grape!) with a shared willingness to taste critically and learn collectively.

That just about wraps it for April! In case you missed some of my recent articles, I’ve highlighted a few below. As always, thank you reading and being on this journey.

Matthieu and Domaine Bernard Baudry need little introduction for lovers of Loire Cabernet Franc. Established in the mid-1970s by Matthieu’s father Bernard, the domaine today is one of Chinon's benchmark estates, and Matthieu has been shaping its direction since his first vintage in 2001. What follows is a lightly edited conversation about the grape he knows best: what it asks of the people who grow it, how to introduce new consumers to it, and what it feels like when it's truly singing.

CFC: For someone new to Cabernet Franc from Chinon, how would you describe this grape and wine?

MB: I'd say that Cabernet Franc, for me, in Chinon, is a temperate grape - the Loire has a relatively temperate climate, and Chinon especially. It has a character that can offer a little ripeness, a little richness, but always with beautiful freshness. It naturally varies according to terroir, but there is always a balance. That comes from the climate, and also from the freshness that the limestone brings, which is the dominant rock in the Loire Valley. It gives the wine its balance - fruit, acid, concentration - but never overflowing with ripeness or with the greenness it may have had in the past.

CFC: Some drinkers are intimidated by the herbaceous side of Cabernet Franc. How do you speak to that?

MB: First, I think they need to taste it, and take a little time with it. It's not a grape that immediately delivers fruitiness, or an immediately charming quality in the way some grapes inherently are. There will always be that light herbaceous note, and that can be intimidating because it takes people back to references from the past, where there was something quite green and unripe - and not only in Cabernet Franc. So you need to take the time. You also need to appreciate the textures of these wines, because they are really quite beautiful. There is a lot of delicacy, a lot of finesse. Yes, there is tannin - it's not a grape without tannin - but the tannins are often very delicate, very elegant. It's a grape that produces very elegant wines.

CFC: Your first vintage was 2001. After more than twenty years working with this grape, what advice would you offer a producer working with Cabernet Franc in another part of the world?

MB: It's difficult to give advice - because I myself like to question what I'm doing, and I still have plenty of things to improve at home before advising others. But I think the most important thing is: don't force the grape. Even if it has colour, even if it seems to have structure, it is very delicate. Don't chase extraction, don't chase power. That's true in the cellar, but it's also true in the vineyard. Be careful not to put it under stress. Vines don't like to be stressed in general, and with Cabernet Franc, even if it has thick skins, too much sun doesn’t bode well for it, and the same goes for too much rain, too much humidity. I like the idea of Cabernet Franc in a garden, where you come to work the soil, you tend to it carefully, and you never put it through suffering.

CFC: Is there a Cabernet Franc that you’ve tasted recently from outside your own cellar that you’ve really enjoyed or has maybe surprised you?

MB: Outside the Loire? It is perhaps terrible to admit, but as someone from Chinon, what I know best is indeed Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur-Champigny. I'm a big fan of Bourgueil. I find there are many beautiful terroirs there. But I once tasted a remarkable single-varietal Cabernet Franc from Saint-Émilion - a very pure, very precise expression of the grape. And then there was a wine from Niagara, Canada that you [Allison Slute] brought to a masterclass for the Chinon producers' syndicate. We tasted it together there, and I was truly moved by it. I've since mentioned that wine to other vignerons and journalists - it was very young, but it was delicious. That's a Cabernet Franc I still think about.

CFC: Last question - three words to describe Cabernet Franc for you.

MB: Elegance - because that’s how I love wine in general, and it’s a grape for which that word truly works.

Freshness - yes, it’s a word that gets used often, especially now with climate change and people looking for lighter, fresher wines, but the Loire genuinely has a cool climate, and freshness is something this grape is rightly known for.

Vibration - because at a certain moment with a great Cabernet Franc, you feel there is a rhythm in the wine. It makes you vibrate a little. You want to keep listening to this music, this song. You want to revisit the wine. That’s a spontaneous answer. I didn’t plan it.

CFC: That was exactly the goal. It’s wonderful. Santé, Matthieu.

For more on the wines from Domaine Bernard Baudry, check out some of the below posts:

What Jean-Pierre leaves behind is not simply a well-run estate, but a foundation built on meticulous work in the vineyards and cellar, and on the values that have shaped the domaine's approach since the mid-1980s. It is on this foundation that his daughters Caroline and Cécile now stand, each bringing her own sensibility and ambition to the work. The story of Château de Villeneuve is not one of transition so much as it is one of continuity with momentum. A domaine with deep roots and, in the hands of the next generation, every reason to believe its finest chapters are still ahead.

The Domaine

The history and vineyards of Château de Villeneuve can be traced back to 1577, when the estate was known as Bel Air. The proprietors were the de Villeneuve family, nobles in the court of the Dukes of Luynes. The estate’s inheritor was the youngest of the two sons, Jean-Marie Berthelot de Villeneuve, who gave the estate its current name.

The modern-day story of Château de Villeneuve begins 1969 when it was purchased be Robert Chevallier, who came from a long line of vignerons from neighbouring Dampierre-sur-Loire. In 1982, Robert’s son Jean-Pierre returned from his studies in Bordeaux and took up reigns at the estate. Very quick to understand the importance of soil health for viticulture, in 1983 Jean-Pierre stopped using fertilizers and weed-killers, planting grasses between the rows of the vineyards and began working the vineyards in a more holistic manner.

The château and a significant portion of the domaine’s vineyards sits atop an ancient troglodyte cellar that was carved out of the tuffeau chalk many centuries ago. The family began the restoration of the underground cellar in the late 1990s, work that concluded with a new chai being built in 2016.

Having recently retired, Jean-Pierre has since passed the torched to the next generation of the Chevallier family to lead the estate, his daughters Caroline and Cécile. Cécile manages the operations, while Caroline is responsible for the work in the vineyard and cellar. Under the guidance of her father, Caroline’s first solo vintage at the domaine was 2023.

The Vineyards

Château de Villeneuve has about 25 hectares of vines, 20 of which are Cabernet Franc (the balance planted with Chenin Blanc1), across fourteen lieux-dits, with the majority of the parcels concentrated on the plateau of Souzay-Champigny with some parcels in neighbouring Dampierre-sur-Loire to the west and Parnay to the east.

While the viticultural area in Souzay-Champigny stretches about 4.5km to the northern edge of the forêt de Fontevraud in the south, the 1.5km wide tuffeau plateau perched up above the Loire River at the northern end of the commune would be considered among the village’s most prized vineyard land.

The tuffeau chalk bedrock of the plateau not only makes this land highly desirable for viticulture thanks to the tuffeau’s water regulating capacities, but after being quarried out many centuries ago to build many of the Loire’s great châteaux, the troglodyte caves below the surface provide ideal conditions for making and aging wine. In addition to the precious benefits of the tuffeau bedrock, this area benefits from the moderating influence of the Loire making it less frost-prone than other areas of the commune and the relatively flat vineyard area gives these sites uninterrupted sunshine during the growing season.

Located on the eastern part of the plateau, the lieu-dit Villeneuve, from which the estate takes its name, along with neighbouring Les Champs Chardons, these two lieux-dits represent the heart and soul of the estate’s holdings accounting for a little over half of their Cabernet Franc plantings. At the northern most part of the lieu-dit Villeneuve, closest to the château and chai, we find the family’s “Le Grand Clos” parcel, a little over 4 hectares of older vines planted in the late 1970s, though not all 4 hectares will go into the Le Grand Clos bottling.

Two other lieux-dits of note for the domaine are La Bienboire and Fief Garnier. Located just adjacent to Les Champs Chardons, La Bienboire has been reputed for viticulture since the 1600s, being denoted on some of the earliest maps of the region. Today, the Chevallier family has 1.5 hectares of Cabernet Franc vines at La Bienboire that were planted in the mid-1980s, and the fruit from this vineyard goes into the cuvée of the same name. The lieu-dit Fief Garnier is on the plateau of Dampeirre-sur-Loire about 1.5km west of the domaine, and this 1.65 hectare parcel has the estate’s oldest vines, planted in 1937 by Jean-Pierre’s grandfather. These vines, along with the plantings from 1956 and 1957 in the same lieu-dit, have been at the heart of the domaine’s Vieilles Vignes bottling.

In terms of soils across the domaine’s parcels, it is interesting to note that they are relatively homogeneous. Across their vineyards, about 85% of their Cabernet Franc vines are planted on the soils influenced by the Middle Turonian tuffeau chalk, known here as craie verte, which is a glauconitic-micaceous chalk. The topsoil across their parcels is also relatively uniform, being classified as a clayey-sandy silt (limon argilo-sableux in French), with 25% each clay and sand content. Where we see some variability is the depth of the topsoil and subsoil texture, which can range from 40cm to upwards of 100cm, with some parcels having slightly more clay content in the subsoil before the vine roots reach the tuffeau chalk bedrock. Across the board, these are very good soils for cultivating Cabernet Franc, with ideal depth, water reserves, drainage capabilities and potential for vigour.

In the vineyard, the estate has been farming organically since 2009, certified in 2011. They are extremely meticulous with their vineyard work in order to keep the yields low and the vines in balance. They perform shoot and bud thinning as needed in the spring, careful leaf pulling around the fruiting zone, and will green harvest after veraison if the vintage warrants it.

The Wines

From their 20 hectares of Cabernet Franc vines, Château de Villeneuve makes a classic range of four Cabernet Francs including their Cuvée Domaine, Clos de la Bienboire, Vieilles Vignes/Cuvée 1937 (see below) and their top expression Le Grand Clos.

Following in her father’s footsteps, Caroline is extremely conscientious about her harvest dates for Cabernet Franc erring on the side of picking a touch earlier as opposed to later in order to retain fresh fruit flavours and bright acid profiles. She also favours cold maceration for upwards of five days during which she will work the whole berries a bit more judiciously to extract colour and flavour rather than tannin. For each of their reds, fermentations are at cooler temperatures, maceration and extraction will vary depending on the cuvée, they use indigenous yeast for the ferments and limit the use of sulphur during fermentation and bottling. For the aging, they generally prefer to bottle earlier after a shorter élevage (12 to 15 months) in order to preserve the fruit in its pure, youthful state, then aging in bottle longer, when desired, prior to release.

In the glass, the wines of Château de Villeneuve embody a rare kind of quiet mastery: pure, poised, and genuinely modest. There is nothing here that reaches or strains; the wines speak with quiet confidence. Polished without ever feeling manufactured, approachable without sacrificing depth, they are benchmarks in Saumur-Champigny not for their ambition, but for their typicity - for how completely and honestly they communicate a sense of place. What runs through the entire range is a thread of classic, timeless elegance. The early-drinking wines carry it effortlessly, with an ease that never sacrifices sophistication, while the vins de garde wear it with quiet authority, built to age gracefully and reward patience.

Cuvée Domaine: Representing about 50% of the domaine’s production, the Cuvée Domaine is from about 13 hectares worth of the estate’s vines. Each parcel is vinified separately in stainless steel, seeing about 10 days on skins, with a very gentle approach to extractions. Aging can be in large wooden vats, foudres or tonneaux depending on the parcel. An assemblage is done after about 12 to 15 months.

I have long considered the Cuvée Domaine from Château de Villeneuve to be an archetypal, benchmark expression of Saumur-Champigny. It is the sort of wine I would reach for to introduce a new drinker to Cabernet Franc from Saumur-Champigny. Easy-drinking fruit and freshness but with a sense of refinement that the tuffeau terroir brings to these entry-level expressions that make the wine feel sophisticated yet approachable at the same time. The estate’s Cuvée Domaine delivers that early-drinking, fruit-forward appeal but also has enough structure and concentration to hold for the medium term.

Clos de la Bienboire: This cuvée uses fruit exclusively from the vines at La Bienboire, which consistently produces fruit with thinner skins and a little less “matière” than other parcels. It is the sort of parcel that would work well for rosé - if you liked rosé! But Jean-Pierre has never been partial to this style of Cabernet Franc, so he decided to make a soft, juicy red from this fruit back in 2009, and the domaine has never looked back!

Fermented in stainless steel with a brief time (7 days) on skins, it has and will always be vinified and bottled without any added sulphur (a sans soufre cuvée before it became cool to make them!). This wine is über pleasurable with effortless drinkability - living up to the vineyard’s name “Bienboire,” meaning “drink well” in French! It is really best when enjoyed young, within the first couple years of bottling, but it can hold up well if you want less of that bright, pure fruit character.

Cuvée 1937/Vieilles Vignes: With a wealth of older vines, it is not uncommon for producers in the Loire to make a “Vieilles Vignes” Cabernet Franc. Unlike many Vieilles Vignes expressions I’ve tried that tend to be a small step up in quality from an estate’s “cuvée tradition” or “cuvée domaine,” like the entire range of Cabernet Francs from Château de Villeneuve, their Vieilles Vignes punches way above its weight class, delivering at level on par or better than many “single vineyard” wines from other estates.

This wine comes from the small parcel of the estate’s oldest vines at the lieu-dit Fief Garnier. The renaming of this wine to “Cuvée 1937” starting with the 2023 vintage pays hommage to the heritage of this very old parcel. Caroline and Cécile went so far as to describe, in detail, the terroir of this parcel on the label. The wine undergoes fermentation in larger oak vats, with longer time on skins (20 days), and aging in older 400L and 500L oak barrels. What I love about this wine is how well it marries accessibility with ageability. You can enjoy it while you’re waiting for the Le Grand Clos to mature, but you can easily cellar it for 10+ years and it will just keep getting better.

Le Grand Clos: The estate’s top expression of Cabernet Franc, this is coming from the domaine’s best parcels in the lieu-dit Villeneuve. The parcels chosen for this cuvée generally come from the same block of older vines, a block that yields low and ripens quite early, upwards of eight days earlier than the bulk of the estate’s parcels.

Like all of the estate’s Cabernet Francs, the fruit is hand-harvested, and here the fermentation is in large wooden vats. A longer time on skins with more extractions sets this cuvée up to have the structure of a true vin de garde. The aging is typically in a combination of 12hl oak foudres and 500L demi muids, occasionally incorporating older barriques for a small portion.

Like many of the appellation’s top structured, age-worthy wines, the Le Grand Clos is built for the cellar, and I’ve found it can often take 5 to 7 years from the vintage date for this wine to really start to come into its own. What sets this wine apart from some of its peers, however, is it never feels like it is trying too hard. When some top vins de garde feel like they are swinging for the fences, there is a modesty, finesse and subtly to the Le Grand Clos that makes it truly accessible - both in what we experience in the glass and how the wine presents emotionally and intellectually, anyone can appreciate the quiet beauty of Château de Villeneuve’s Le Grand Clos.

Tasting Notes

“Cuvée Domaine” 2023 Saumur-Champigny (12% abv., SRP $23USD/13EUR): Very pretty, fragrant yet soft-spoken on the nose that leans a little bit more precisely in the herbal-floral space with notes of soft herbs (basil, tarragon) and violets leading alongside fresh red and dark berries and delicate warming spices. Medium-bodied with lively, mouth-watering acidity that gives divine drinkability without ever feeling pointy or austere. The tannins are impeccably managed. Polished, silky in the mouth with a crushed velvet finish. Stylish and poised, but never pretentious, deliciously inviting. Drinks impeccably well now, but will improve and continue to bring pleasure over the medium term.

“Clos de la Bienboire” 2024 Saumur-Champigny (12% abv., SRP $27USD/15EUR): An explosion of pink leaps from the glass. Notes of rose, peony, pink peppercorns mingle with small, snappy red berries (cranberry, lingonberry, and a hint of wild strawberry). Soft, wispy herbs and delicate white pepper spice add intrigue to the palate. Vibrant, juicy acidity and soft, satiny tannins add to the inviting, deliciously drinkable palate. Energetic, characterful, convivial. Just delightful. Serve slightly chilled to maximize the wine’s thirst-quenching, pleasure-delivering personality.

“Cuvée 1937” 2023 Saumur-Champigny (12% abv., SRP $30USD/18EUR): The nose instantly has depth and presence, beautifully layered with fruit and earth undertones on equal footing. Dark berries, sous bois, delicate fern, cedar leaves and a hint of thyme. Cleansing, persistent acidity weaves together with velvety tannins to create tension and structure without ever feeling rigid. Elegantly built, with a succulent mid-palate weight, finishing with notes of pink and green peppercorns, cardamom and a touch of chalky minerality. A masterclass in subtly with substance. To be released in summer 2026. Lovely approachability now, and has plenty to carry this for 10+ years at least.

“Vieilles Vignes” 2022 Saumur-Champigny (13% abv., SRP $30USD/18EUR): The same depth and presence in the 2023 was evident in the 2022 though with a more sunny, riper character that is typical of the vintage. Ripe berries, with undertones of red cherry and cassis, marry with herbal and floral notes of rosemary, cedar wood, violet and lavender, and spicy undertones of clover and crushed black pepper. Perhaps a touch shy on the nose at this stage, but the future potential is clear. The palate is fresh, vibrant with refreshing acidity, and very fine, firm, crushed velvet tannins give way to a round, plush, moreish mid-palate, which carries through to a long, focused finish. Beautifully restrained with impressive elegance, and enormous potential for cellaring. In a word, stunning.

“Le Grand Clos” 2021 Saumur-Champigny (12% abv., SRP $45USD/28EUR): Expressive nose that is lifted, fragrant and perfumed with sweet, red berry fruits (strawberry, raspberry), delicate earth (tarragon, cedar leaves), pink florals and layered spices (liquorice, star anise, allspice). The open and inviting nose gives way to a palate that is more modest and reserved; very characteristic of the vintage for a wine of this caliber, though it shows good potential. Lively, persistent acidity and firm, chalky tannins make the palate a touch austere, though the depth and concentration of fruit suggests there is plenty of “gras” and substance that will fill the wine out. Elongated and elegant, with a sense of weightlessness through the finish, the wine exudes polish and sophistication and will reward with patience. Demure with timeless elegance, this wine that will only grow more eloquent with age.

Château de Villeneuve (Chevallier, Cécile et Caroline)

3 rue Jean Brevet, 49400 Souzay-Champigny, France

+33 2 41 51 14 04 (tasting by appointment only)

Global Distribution: Currently available in the United States (16 states), Canada (Québec, Ontario), Mexico, the Netherlands, Belgium, Sweden, Norway, Denmark, Austria, Italy, Switzerland, United Kingdom, China, Hong Kong, South Korea, Kazakhstan, Australia, French Polynesia

The United States has had a number of pioneering importers - Kermit Lynch, Joe Dressner, Neal Rosenthal to name a few - who fell in love with Loire Valley Cabernet Franc, long before the likes of Clos Rougeard and others became coveted favourites among wine professionals. David Lille of Chamber Street Wines is not mentioned to the same degree as some of the aforementioned importers, but one quick browse of the company’s online store and you will see very quickly that David has a soft spot in his heart for the Loire Valley. And thanks to David Lille’s keen palate, he “discovered” Stéphane Guion and his wines back in 2009 and didn't hesitate to see what others had missed.

My first introduction to Stéphane’s wines came when I lived in Miami, when there was a local distributor carrying the range from Percy Selections. I remember being immediately taken with the domaine’s style of Cabernet Franc, which felt akin to some of the wines I fell in love with when I started this journey, such as the great wines of Olga Raffault, Domaine Breton and others. The wines were pure, honest, somewhat old school expressions of Loire Cabernet Franc that celebrated the strong identity of the grape in all of its glory. I understood the wines well enough then, or so I thought. It would take meeting the vigneron behind them to understand them completely.

I had the pleasure of meeting Stéphane for the first time at the domaine for a tasting in the spring of 2022. It was my last appointment in a very ambitious day of tasting in the eastern part of the Bourgueil appellation, and I arrived at the domaine over an hour late. On arrival, I was befuddled, embarrassed, and mentally exhausted from speaking in French the entire day. Stéphane's kind and compassionate energy was welcomed, and in that ease, something crystallized. The wines I had admired from a distance were suddenly explained; not by what was in the glass, but by the person standing in front of me. The honesty of the wines, their quiet charm, their lack of pretension - he was them, and they were him.

The Domaine

The estate was established in the early 1950s by Stéphane’s parents, Jean and Yolande Guion, with 5 hectares of vines from Jean’s side of the family and 3 from Yolande’s side. Their humble beginnings were like many domaines in the Loire, beginning as a polyculture farm, tending to other crops in addition to their Cabernet Franc vines.

One aspect of the estate’s history that makes it particularly unique is their focus on organic viticulture. Jean and Yolande converted to organic viticulture in 1965 - at a time when it was far more fashionable to use whatever new fertilizer/herbicide/pesticide came available to make farming easier. Instead, with their deep concern and respect for the environment, Jean and Yolande chose to farm organically following the Lemaire-Boucher method.

Stéphane’s own journey as a vigneron began in the mid-1980s, pursuing wine studies in Bordeaux before going on to become Maître de Chai at Chinon’s Château de Vaugaudry from 1988 to 1994. His first vintage at the family domaine in Benais was 1990. Not much has changed at the domaine since these modest beginnings, and that is part of what makes Stéphane and his range of Cabernet Francs so endearing.

The Vineyards

Stéphane is working with around 9 hectares of vines from parcels from across the commune of Benais exclusively. The main lieux-dits he is farming include, from northwest to southeast, Chavannes, le Maupas, la Caverie, Grand Mont, les Marquises, and Petit Mont.

The commune of Benais is situated on the east side of the Changeon River, and the heart of the commune’s viticultural landscape is situated about 5 to 6km north of the Loire River. This position makes Benais unique in the Bourgueil appellation: its vineyards are exclusively on the slopes (the/le côte) and it is the only commune in the appellation that does not have vineyards on the alluvial terraces.

The location of the commune and, by extension, the lieux-dits with which Stéphane is working, means that the terroir across these parcels is distinct from other parts of the Bourgueil appellation, and that distinction is felt in the glass. Firstly, the microclimate tends to be a little bit cooler overall as there is less moderation from the Loire River as well as the temperate effects of the forêt de Benais to the north. It is worth mentioning, however, that the slopes do benefit from predominately south- to southwest-facing exposures promoting enhanced ripening during the growing season despite the slightly cooler conditions.

Secondly, the soils on the côte in Benais are what the French broadly call argilo-calcaire, that is, clay-limestone soils. More specifically, it is notably that Benais does not really have the same deep, light textured, sandy or sandy-silty soils that we find on the alluvial terrace, rather the vineyard topsoils range from very clayey to a clay silt-loam mix (argile limoneuse in French). The soils are typically quite shallow, 50-60cm on average, and upwards to 100 to 150cm in some places, followed by a bedrock of either the Middle or Upper Turonian tuffeau chalk.

It is generally understood across Bourgueil and the other Cabernet Franc appellations in the Loire that these clay-limestone soils are best suited to producing structured, age-worthy expressions of the grape. The nature of these soils, coupled with the cooler microclimate, means that these sites in Benais are often some of the last to be picked in the appellation. The long hang-time allows for more phenolic development of the skins and seeds, which can give firmer tannins and a more pronounced tannic structure in the glass, and for this reason the wines from Benais are known to be the most structured and tannic of the Bourgueil appellation.

The Wines

Stéphane’s core range of Cabernet Francs include his Cuvée Candide (formerly the Cuvée Domaine), Cuvée Authentique (formerly the Cuvée Préstige) and his top expression Grand Mont or Deux Monts depending on the vintage. While the choice of vessel for winemaking and aging varies slightly with each cuvée, across the board Stéphane approaches his vinifications using native yeast, adjusting his maceration time and extraction techniques as per the cuvée and the vintage, and favouring longer bottle aging before releasing the wines to market.

In my experience with Stéphane's Cabernet Francs, the wines are a faithful reflection of the man himself - honest, unpretentious, and made with a quiet confidence that never seeks to impress for its own sake. There is a humility to them. They are minimalist wines in the truest sense of the word. Pared down, unadorned, their subtlety the very thing that makes them so amiable and charming. These are not wines built for spectacle. They are soft-spoken and companionable. When young, they invite you back to the glass again and again, and with time in the bottle, they reward your patience.

What strikes me most is their benevolence. Despite the firm tannic architecture that is the hallmark of Benais, there is an openness and tenderness that runs through Stéphane’s entire range. Understated in the best possible way, they ask nothing of you; unpretentious enough to enjoy without overthinking, and rewarding enough to merit the effort you choose to give. In a wine world that too often equates complexity with showmanship, Stéphane's wines are a quiet but compelling argument for restraint.

Cuvée Candide: This wine is from selected parcels across all of the domaine’s lieux-dits and is generally from the estate’s “youngest” vines, 30-35 years on average. This cuvée would be, for all intents and purposes, the domaine’s “entry-level” wine, though it is more concentrated and structured by virtue of the soils where the estate’s vineyards are situated.

Stéphane’s desire for this cuvée is to preserve the fruit profile, and thus he vinifies the wine in stainless steel and it sees a short élevage in tank for about 8 to 10 months. This wine’s tannin profile is typically quite pronounced when young, so he will generally bottle age the Cuvée Candide for about two years before release. While other vignerons are quick to release their vins de soif by summer of the year following harvest, Stéphane’s current release of this cuvée can be two to three vintages behind his neighbours.

With this wine’s concentration and overall tannin structure, it can age exceptionally well. On release, it usually benefits from another 6 months of bottle age and continues to get better over the medium term (three to seven years) but it can easily age much longer. When enjoyed young, consider decanting and serving it alongside the appropriate protein to help soften its firmer tannins.

Cuvée Authentique: This wine is the old vines (vieilles vignes) selection from the same lieux-dits as the Cuvée Candide, typically 50 to 60 years of age on average. Like the Cuvée Candide, Stéphane chooses to vinify and age the wine all in stainless steel to preserve the freshness and purity of the fruit, and it is bottled after about 12 months in tank. It is generally bottle aged closer to three years, so you’ll often see its current vintage a year behind that of Candide.

In my experience, this wine shows the “terroir” in a more pronounced way, in part, I think, from the older vines and also the vinification in stainless steel. It tends to be more linear, with a noticeable vertical acid spine that brings tension and focus in the glass. For me, it is always the most floral of Stéphane’s reds, which I find particularly charming. With time, the textural sensation of the “Benais clay” and the mineral salinity of the tuffeau chalk really start to shine through.

Grand Mont and Deux Monts: First released with the 2009 vintage, Deux Monts historically was an assemblage from Stéphane’s best parcels from the lieux-dits Petit Mont and Grand Mont. The domaine has only bottled the Deux Monts in years that Stéphane deems exceptional at expressing the terroir, which include 2009, 2010, 2014, 2017, 2018, 2019. In “lesser” vintages, the fruit is declassified and goes into the Authentique bottling. In 2020, Stéphane made the decision to transition this cuvée to using his exclusively the 2.3 hectares of vines from Grand Mont, making it now a single vineyard wine (the top parcels from Petit Mont now go into the Cuvée Authentique). It is worth mentioning there is no Grand Mont in 2021.

For both the Deux Monts and Grand Mont, the approach in the cellar has remained consistent. Stéphane prefers slightly longer maceration in large oak vats with aging for about 18 months in 400L older oak barrels. Similarly to the Authentique, this sees a minimum of three years aging in bottle before release.

Stéphane’s Deux Monts and now his Grand Mont are vins de garde that can go toe-to-toe with some of the appellation’s best. Beautifully composed and impressively structured, with concentration, depth and complexity, it is wine that really starts to shine about 10 years from the vintage date and has an almost indefatigable lifespan in the bottle. I wouldn’t hesitate recommending this wine to someone looking to build a Loire Cabernet Franc cellar.

Other Cuvées: One of Stéphane’s newest offerings is his “Pionniers,” which he made for the first time in 2023. This wine is exactly the same as the Cuvée Candide except that it is bottled without added sulphur (sans soufre, as the French would say). The name “Pionniers” translates to “pioneers,” which is a nod to his parents’ decision to approach their work more “naturally” and beginning to farm organically in 1965 - one of the first in the appellation to do so.

Working exclusively with Cabernet Franc in his vineyards, Stéphane has chosen “expand” his range of wines by working creatively with the grape (as opposed to planting Chenin) to produce a still dry rosé, as well as two traditional method sparkling wines, a rosé and a blanc de noir.

Tasting Notes: Recent Vintages

“Pionniers” 2023 Bourgueil (12% abv., SRP 12EUR/$20USD): Subtle, fragrant and earthy, with ripe, dark berry fruits, cedar leaves, and delicate clove spice. A juicy and lip-smacking fruit profile on the palate with plenty of energy and freshness. Velvety tannins, inviting middle palate fruit, with a touch of graphite and black peppercorn through the finish. Welcoming, friendly, immediately accessible and dangerously drinkable.

“Candide” 2023 Bourgueil (12% abv., SRP 11.50EUR): Compared to the Pionniers, the Candide 2023 was a little more introverted on the nose and palate. Notes of black cherry and black raspberry mix with foresty undertones and thyme, rounded out by black and pink peppercorn spice. Succulent, with lively acidity and a plush mid-palate. Fine, chalky tannins wrap around the fruit core giving way to a taut, clayey grip through the finish. Understated, charming and fresh, it will reward with a bit more patience.

“Candide” 2022 Bourgueil (13% abv., SRP 11.50EUR/$18USD): Leads with ripe, dark berries and bramble on the nose with an underlying note of fragrant bouquet garni, cedar and wet stones. A pure and generous palate, with focused acidity complemented by fine, firm, chalky tannins. Structured but approachable, with a round, enveloping, moreish finish. Shows beautiful restraint and vibrancy from the very warm 2022 vintage. Delicious now, and will absolutely improve over medium to long term.

“Authentique” 2023 Bourgueil (12.5% abv., not yet released): Perfumed red fruit (cherry, raspberry) with notes of sous bois, fir, thyme and soft baking spice (nutmeg) through the finish. Concentrated, with lively acidity and firm, velvety tannins that finish with a sinewy, grip. The fleshy and round mid-palate is well-corseted and elongated by the persistent backbone of acidity. Beautifully composed, elegant, balanced. Likely to be released later early 2027, this wine will reward with another 3 to 5 years in the bottle.

“Authentique” 2022 Bourgueil (13% abv., not yet released): Fragrant and floral, the red fruits are in keeping with the 2023 vintage but showing a slightly riper, coulis-like profile. Spicy pink florals (peony, rose) marries with liquorice, autumn leaves and cardamom spice through the finish. Fresh, linear acidity with velvety, firm tannins, extremely approachable for the vintage. Serious, gourmand, generous. In keeping with Stéphane’s style, the 2022 feels understated, while remaining true to this solaire vintage.

“Authentique” 2021 Bourgueil (12% abv., not yet released): A cooler, more classic “Loire” vintage, the wine leads with bright red fruits, peppery spice undertones, notes of violets, mint and chalky minerality. A lighter profile, particularly compared to the 2022 and 2020, but not lacking in flavour or concentration. Vibrant acidity and well-managed, fine-grained tannins work together to build a fine structure. Long and lean, balletic and harmonious. Tuck away and enjoy the generosity of the 2022 and 2020 in the meantime.

“Authentique” 2020 Bourgueil (13% abv., SRP 12.50EUR/$20USD): Fleshy red-fruited nose that leans a little more cherry compote as opposed to fresh-picked cherries, with cedar and rosemary herbaceous undertones and delicate cardamom and white pepper spice. Mouth-watering acidity, beautifully round, velvety tannins that finish with the slightest chalky tug on the tongue. Sumptuously textured, vivid, complete. Drinking marvellously now, and will no doubt go the distance in the cellar.

“Authentique” 2019 Bourgueil (13% abv., SRP 13.50EUR/$22USD): Aromatic and inviting, showing a mix of fresh red and dark fruits, with menthol-like herbals (mint, rosemary) and a touch of pine, and warming cinnamon and Sichuan peppercorn spice through the finish. The acidity is vibrant, the tannins decidedly firm, chalky and not quite as resolved as the 2020. Classic, structured, with a taut, focused mid-palate. Broad-shouldered, but svelte. Hold for a few more years and enjoy the 2020 in the meantime.

“Grand Mont” 2020 Bourgueil (13% abv., SRP 24EUR/$32USD): Pure, lusciously fragrant with dark berry notes and subtle herbal aromas marry with violet florals, bittersweet chocolate, and heady star anise and allspice. Fresh, mouth-watering acidity alongside crushed velvet tannins, the wine has superb concentration and depth signalling the grandeur of this terroir. While impressively structured and built for long-term cellaring, the wine has so much ease and drinkability with its enveloping, fleshy mid-palate. Regal, refined, captivating. I wouldn’t fault you for enjoying this now, but it will probably be even better in a 5 to 7 years time.

“Deux Monts” 2019 Bourgueil (13% abv., SRP 20EUR/$30USD): Showing a touch more “varietal- forward” than the 2020, the 2019 leads with a balanced mix of red and dark berries, with a distinct menthol-edge of mint and rosemary alongside tarragon and a touch of forest floor. The palate shows added layers of dissected violets, liquorice and fragrant quatre épice. Persistent, nervy acidity with firm, tightly-woven tannins, the palate is upright, structured and with a pronounced clayey-mineral impact through the mid-palate. Still a touch unyielding at the moment, particularly compared to the 2020, but I love the verve that comes from this more herbal-forward palate, it just needs a little more time for the tannins to meld with the fruit.

“Deux Monts” 2018 Bourgueil (14% abv., SRP 22EUR/$32USD): From the very warm 2018 vintage, the nose is quite open, red fruit-driven in a way that leans a touch in the fruit leather space, with an exquisite mix of pink and purple florals, soft herbs, and a bit of tertiary development of wet clay, liquorice, graphite and chai spices. A generous palate showcases refreshing acidity and lush, velvety tannins, with a round, voluminous fruit-ladened mid-palate that never feels like too much. Long, deliciously satisfying, this is coming into a lovely drinking window at the moment, and no doubt will continue to improve over the long term.

2024 Cabernet Franc Rosé Méthode Traditionelle Brut (12% abv., SRP 15EUR): Made in the traditional method with 9 months on fine lees, 11 g/L dosage. Leads with pure, lively fruits and florals. Tiny red berries (currants, lingonberry, wild strawberry) with pretty floral undertones of lilac and jasmine. A delicate, creamy palate, with cleansing acidity and a touch of sweetness on the finish. A thirst-quenching, pleasurable sparkling rosé that leads with fruit as opposed to autolytic character. An ideal brunch bubbles candidate!

2023 Blanc de Noir Crémant de Loire Brut (12% abv., SRP 15EUR): Traditional method with 12 months on fine lees and 7g/L dosage. The nose and palate show the fruit complexity that Cabernet Franc can bring in a blanc de noir style with notes of white raspberry, wispy herbs (basil, tarragon), and white florals, alongside a touch of arrowroot biscuit and fresh ginger. Crisp, clean palate with refreshing acidity and a fine, creamy mousse working to give a bit of structural dimension to the palate. Characterful with lovely balance. Drier than the rosé sparkling, this would make a great apéritif with charcuterie.

Tasting Notes: Back Vintages

On my recent visit, Stéphane and I spoke about the 2025 vintage and the reputation and track record of “the 5s,” and I asked about his experiences with vintages ending in 6. Remarking that he had not re-tasted anything from these “6” vintages in recent years, we proceeded to head down to his personal cave beneath his home to see if there were any bottles lying around to taste. The Cabernet Franc gods were on my side that day, and there was a 2016, 2006 and 1996 of the Cuvée Préstige in Stéphane’s cave for us to taste.

“Cuvée Préstige” 2016 Bourgueil (12.5% abv.): Bright, crunchy red fruit profile, with lots of earthy depth, like dried thyme and basil, sandalwood, that is on equal footing with the fruit. Fragrant with rose potpourri florals and piquant, heady spices (Sichuan peppercorn, star anise, chilli flake). Lively acidity provides tension, while the tannins are fine, firm and chalky from start to finish. Lean and lifted, almost feather-like in weight, with a savoury, round fruit core that lingers long on the palate. Drinking well, with vibrancy and elegance.

“Cuvée Préstige” 2006 Bourgueil (12.5% abv.): The most “ligerien” of the three “6” vintages we tasted, this wine was certainly a bit more varietally-forward with pronounced earthier undertones of wild forest berries, potting soil, autumn leaves and a faint hint of potpourri florals and liquorice spice. Refreshing acidity and gauzy tannins weave to create a delicate structure, and a fine, Pinot-like weight and texture. Drinking well, and probably lacking in a little concentration to hold much longer.

“Cuvée Préstige” 1996 Bourgueil (12.5% abv.): From one of the better vintages of the 1990s, this 1996 was absolutely exceptional. Savoury with very pretty underlying herbal character, with added layers of dried cranberries, mushroom, candied orange peel, and heady Christmas spices. This wine was SO transparent to the terroir, you could’ve easily mistaken there to be clay and crushed up chalk in your glass. Beautifully harmonious, and still remarkably energetic, concentrated and with plenty of depth at 30 years of age. Impressive.

Domaine Stéphane GUION

3 Rte de Saint-Gilles, 37140 Benais, France

+33 6 68 70 20 77 (tasting by appointment only)

Global Distribution: Current available in the US (45 states), Canada (Ontario, Manitoba), UK, Ireland, Belgium, the Netherlands, Denmark, Norway, Switzerland, Portugal, Japan.

For those that don’t live in Ontario or many parts of Northeastern United States, this winter has been one of the coldest, snowiest and longest winters in recent memory. The first snowfall arrived on November 9th, and as I type this, there are snow drifts over 50cm deep still blanketing my yard that have not begun to melt. I’m so over it.

Meanwhile, in the Loire Valley, spring is well underway, Chenin buds (with Cabernet Franc not far behind) have already burst across much of the region, and vignerons were on frost watch late last week. Early reports suggest that temperatures didn’t dip low enough to cause any damage, but the frost risk window will persist through April, so no doubt there may still be more sleepless nights ahead for vignerons.

This involuntary hibernation brought on by the winter of 2026 did mean, however, that I was able to be productive in my tastings and planning for the months ahead. So, I suppose there is a flip side to every coin. Suffice it to say, I will be very happy to see “April” at the top of the calendar tomorrow.

After a busy February, March was a relatively relaxed month of tasting, and I’m delighted to share with you a few highlights from recent weeks.

In my January Tasting Diaries, I highlighted the 2022 Saumur Rouge “Clos Mazurique” from Arnaud Lambert, and earlier this month I decided to pop the cork on the 2022 Saumur-Champigny “Terres Rouges” (14% abv., SRP $25USD/12 EUR). If you ever have the chance, these two wines are always fascinating to taste side-by-side as they are essentially made the exact same way but from two distinct terroirs. I actually did this exercise during an Instagram Live back in 2023 in honour of Cabernet Franc Day, which was a fun 75-minute nerdy deep dive into these two terroirs and wines. Generally speaking, the Terres Rouges is always a bit more plush, open and generous than the Clos Mazurique from the same vintage, while the Clos Mazurique leans more nuanced and reserved.

The 2022 Terres Rouges is in a terrific place at the moment. Lifted, fragrant, spicy, with foresty red fruits (cranberry, lingonberry, raspberry) mixing with well-defined herbal notes of mint and rosemary alongside pink florals and a touch of sumac (the sumac note in this wine is very consistent from vintage to vintage). A heady mélange of Cabernet Franc varietal spice (pink, black, Sichuan peppercorns) comes through more on the palate. Refreshing acidity and silky, uniform tannins weave together to create a seamless structure, while a plush, fruit-ladened mid-palate delivers pleasure and drinkability. Layered, pure, precise, without being intricate, with lovely balance and restraint for the vintage.

Le Macchiole, 2018 IGT Toscana “Paleo Rosso,” Bolgheri, Italy (14% abv., SRP $125USD): Sometimes you just need to open a showstopper Cabernet Franc! Particularly when enjoying a standing prime rib roast with all the fixings to help cure the mid-winter blues. The Paleo Rosso is Bolgheri’s original 100% Cabernet Franc. Today, nearly a third of all estates in the region bottle a 100% Cabernet Franc as part of their range, but in 2001, it was Le Macchiole that was the first to decide to put Cabernet Franc on the pedestal that the grape deserves. The wine is from selection of the family’s top parcels and made in a very classic, “Super Tuscan” style with extended aging in new oak barriques.

This is a wine that definitely benefits from cellaring, and when drunk on the younger side, like this 2018, decanting is certainly recommended to help soften and integrate some the wood tannin that is a bit more pronounced in its youth. With a little bit of oxygen, the wine began to unfurl with Mediterranean Cabernet Franc energy marrying fresh red and dark fruited notes (bramble, sour cherry compote, blackcurrant) with dry, garrigue-like herbal undertones (bay leaf, cypress, dried oregano and oregano oil), piquant Espelette pepper and robust baking spices. The palate is plush yet refined, with refreshing acidity and fine, velvety tannins that finish with a touch of chalky grip. Richly textured and round, with elegance and poise through the finish, this wine aristocratic and stately while being understated at the same time.

COR Wine Cellars, 2023 Cabernet Franc, Alder Ridge Vineyard, Horse Heaven Hills, Washington State, USA (13% abv., SRP $36USD): I don’t have the opportunity to taste as much Cabernet Franc from Washington State as I would like. So when the Washington State Wine Commission offered to send me some samples to try, I didn’t hesitate to accept their offer. COR Wine Cellars was established in 2004, and Cabernet Franc has been a staple of their range since the 2005 vintage. Tenuta di Trinoro-trained winemaker and owner Luke Bradford likes to showcase the grape in a cool climate style with a focus on purity of fruit and vibrant acidity. The 2023 is sourced from older vines (planted in 1997) from a cooler block of the Alder Ridge Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA in south-central Washington State.

Using a touch of whole bunches in the fermentation and seeing just 10 months of aging in neutral oak, the wine leads with pure, classic varietal character with fresh red berry fruits (raspberry, cherry, strawberry coulis), earth and herbal undertones of thyme and fragrant pine bows, mixing with very pretty florals (lilac, jasmine). The acidity is lively and crisp, and that crispness of the acid structure extends to the tannins, which have a very finely woven, percale cotton-like texture. This structure coupled with the fresh florals immediately brought to mind freshly cleaned bed sheets hanging out to dry on a cool, spring morning! The crisp-juicy palate is delightfully complemented by spicy notes of pink peppercorn, chilli flake, star anise and Ceylon cinnamon. Medium-bodied, balanced, playful and approachable from the first sip. As far as first impressions go, this is a winner, and I love that it has this well-intentioned, thoughtful side working in tandem with its playful energy.

Château de Villeneuve, 2021 Saumur-Champigny (13% abv., SRP $25USD/13 EUR): I did a bit of wine cellar organization this month (my kind of spring cleaning!) and realized that I had 5 bottles of the “domaine” cuvée from the 2021 vintage from Château de Villeneuve. Given that I have been loving the 2021s from across the Loire Valley at the moment, I figured it was worth tucking into a bottle to see where this wine was at. This is the estate’s “early-drinking” expression from a selection of their parcels in Souzay-Champigny and is vinified all in stainless steel. It typically represents about 50% of the domaine’s red wine production (60,000-70,000 bottles). With some additional time in the bottle, this cuvée is really leaning into Cabernet Franc’s earthy and herbal side, which I absolutely love. This wine is really intended to be drunk within five-ish years from vintage date, but structurally the wine can age much longer - it is really just a question of personal preference and how you prefer to enjoy your Cabernet Franc.

Much of the wine’s youthful, vibrant fruit has melted away to reveal a complex tapestry of earth and herbal notes, like rich potting soil, cedar leaves, beet root, za’atar, cool and lush evergreen forest, which are complemented by a bit of dried blueberry and cranberry mixing with violet potpourri, star anise and allspice. Bright, cleansing acidity with soft, silky tannins that finish with a touch chalkiness, the wine is suave, sophisticated with impressive impact and mid-palate weight from what was a cooler vintage for Loire Valley Cabernet Franc. Poised and timeless, I think this wine will continue to age gracefully for the medium term, and those earthier undertones will continue to become amplified with time. I enjoyed this with homemade duck confit and braised lentils, and it was a knockout pairing.

Tawse, 2013 Laundry Vineyard Cabernet Franc, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara, Ontario, Canada (13.5% abv., SRP $35CAD): There are a handful of “lighthouse” Cabernet Francs that have been extremely significant to me on this journey, and this wine is one of them. When I started my wine career in the Niagara Peninsula, the Laundry Vineyard Cabernet Franc from Tawse was a wine that delivered one of those “ah-ha” moments and helped to further embolden my passion for this grape. The late Paul Pender was one of Ontario’s great champions of Cabernet Franc, and he made upwards of 5 expressions of the variety each vintage. The wine comes from some of the oldest Cabernet Franc vines planted in Ontario (planted in the early 1980s, and the parcel is on very deep, iron oxide-rich sandy soils close to Lake Ontario’s shoreline.

Approaching a dozen years of bottle age, the wine is showing really well - a testament to Paul’s meticulous approach to crafting Cabernet Franc. Aromatic and spicy on the nose with fruit, earth and spice working in tandem, showcasing notes of cranberry, raspberry and a touch of sour cherry, complemented by heady herbals (dried rosemary, sage and fresh marjoram) and punchy, warming spices (lots of cinnamon, in ground and stick form, dried ginger, chilli flake). The palate shows additional layers of capsicum (roasted poblano pepper) and cured tobacco. Soft but cleansing acidity that shows nice persistence through the finish marries well with fine, linen-like tannins to create a round, elegant, well-defined structure that carries through to a long, spicy finish. Balanced, intentional, serious yet approachable. Today, Niagara-on-the-Lake’s Southbrook Vineyards vinifies the Laundry Vineyard Cabernet Franc, and Casey Hogan’s bottling from the 2020 vintage is exceptional, not to mention a superb value.

Domaine de la Chevalerie, 2019 Bourgueil “Noms d’Oiseaux” (13% abv., SRP $25USD/15 EUR): Perhaps my subconscious reached for this recently as an optimistic foreshadowing of the eventual return of songbirds and, along with them, more spring-like weather. And every time I drink a wine from Domaine de la Chevalerie, I am reminded that I am long overdue for a return visit to the domaine to taste with Emmanuel and Laurie - two of the kindest people in the industry you will ever meet. The Noms d’Oiseaux is part of the estate’s range of Cuvées d’Inspiration that come from a mix of parcels selected to deliver a certain “sentiment” in the glass. Noms d’Oiseaux is from deeper alluvial soils, a little lower on the slope in Restigné, known to give generous fruit and a deeply pleasurable wine.

Soft-spoken and understated on the nose, the wine leads with purity and clarity. Reserved and refined aromatics that balance fresh fruits and herbs. A mix of red and dark fruits (Bing cherry, black raspberry, and a touch of wild blueberry compote) are on equal footing with a mix of soft, wispy herbs (opal basil, tarragon, spearmint) and a pretty pink floral perfume. More layers emerge on the palate including lush forest floor, liquorice, cardamom, clove and a hint of Sichuan peppercorn. Lively, fresh and refreshing acidity weaves together effortlessly with silky, supple tannins. Round and plush while also being beautifully delineated, the wine is generous without being overbearing. It is absolutely scrumptious, moreish and welcoming with enough complexity to invite further introspective contemplation if the moment allows for it and the drinker is yearning for a deeper experience.

Thank you, as always, for reading and for your continued support. What wine do you reach for on that first, beautifully spring day? Let me know in the comments!

As history would have it, Mother Nature has delivered the Central Loire several strong “5” vintages in recent decades with 2015, 2005, 1995 and 1985 all being stellar years for Cabernet Franc from the region. And while it is still early, 2025 appears to be delivering on the promise of another great “5” vintage.

The 2025 Vintage in a Nutshell

The wet conditions that plagued the 2024 vintage continued into early 2025 with January through March seeing average to slightly above average rainfall. The winter was also a little colder than average and this delayed budbreak, which is always helpful when spring weather can be on the unpredictable side.

Thankfully the spring brought with it ideal conditions that continued from budbreak, through flowering and fruit set. Come late-May summer had seemingly arrived ahead of schedule with warmer, drier and sunnier than average conditions that continued more or less right through until harvest.

With the lower rainfall experienced in May and June, coupled with a heatwave at the end of June with several days with temperatures in excess of 40C, there were some initial concerns that vineyards might become drought stressed. But thanks to the wet conditions in 2024 and early 2025, ground water reserves were plentiful, and this, coupled with well-timed rains in July, virtually every vigneron I spoke to reported seeing no signs of drought stress in their Cabernet Franc vineyards. While the vines exhibited no signs of hydric stress, the lower rainfall did lead to slightly smaller than average berries in many vineyards and appellations.

While temperatures were warm through July and August, they were never hot nor were there prolonged periods of excessive heat, and the evening temperatures remained relatively cool, helping to slow down ripening and preserve acidities. By mid-August, many were hoping for a little bit of rain before harvest citing concerns that the dry conditions might stunt the phenolic maturities of the Cabernet Franc skins and seeds. As if right on cue, Mother Nature delivered a good douse of rain (between 35-50mm in most appellations) on August 29th, which not only “refreshed” the vines, but delivered a welcome measure of dilution ahead of harvest.

Early September brought a few well-timed showers, and many vignerons began picking their Cabernet Franc for red wines by mid-month (Sept 15 to 17th) concluding by about the 25th of September. Conditions during harvest were idyllic - a fitting close to what had been a near-flawless growing season.

Key Themes from the 2025 Vintage

In stark contrast to 2024, the 2025 vintage was, by all accounts, effortless.

While 2024 had vignerons dodging raindrops and running off their feet fighting mildew pressure left and right, most vignerons were actually able to enjoy their summer in 2025 - even if harvest's earlier than average arrival had a few of them cutting their August holidays short.

In the vineyard, Mother Nature delivered vignerons a storybook Cabernet Franc vintage in 2025, with clean, perfectly ripened fruit of impeccable quality from which they would craft their wines. And with each successive vintage of this calibre, the vignerons of the Loire have only grown more adept at rising to meet it with confidence and enthusiasm.

Uniform Quality Across Terroirs

While 2024 saw marked differences in quality from vineyard to vineyard within a given appellation, 2025 delivered rather homogeneous results. In appellations where there is a notable distinction between alluvial soils and the clay-limestone of the slopes, such as Chinon, Bourgueil and St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, in drier vintages like 2025 sometimes the alluvial soils can suffer from hydric stress, but most vignerons are reporting very consistent quality across these broad groups of soils. Benoît Amirault of Domaine Yannick Amirault noted that across his parcels in St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil and Bourgueil “very high and uniform quality” from his vines from the alluvial terrace as well as the slopes. In appellations defined by limestone terroirs such as Saumur-Champigny and Saumur, the self-regulating ability that tuffeau has to hold onto moisture and release it to the vine when needed meant vineyards showed no signs of drought stress allowing for even ripening across communes and parcels.

Lower than Average Yields

If there was any downside to 2025, as is so often the case when vintage conditions are superb, there weren’t as many grapes as folks would’ve liked! Part of the reason for the lower yields in 2025 was a direct result of the challenging summer conditions in 2024. With all the rain, overcast skies and cooler temperatures in June and July 2024, there was widespread low inflorescence in vineyards in the Central Loire resulting in fewer clusters per shoot going into the 2025 season. This, coupled with the drier conditions experienced during the growing season resulted in smaller berries and lower bunch weights, which meant that yields were down by about 20-25% across many appellations with most vignerons reporting final harvest yields of around 30 to 40hl/ha on average across their vineyards.

Ripeness in All the Right Places

With the smaller than average berry size and thus a higher skin to juice ratio, there are sometimes concerns of a “tannic” vintage for reds, where no amount of time in the bottle seems to properly resolve and smooth out the tannins. In the case of 2025, several vignerons have remarked to me that they are extremely pleased with the quality of their tannins, particularly compared to similarly warm and dry vintages. Thomas Pichet of Domaine du Petit Bondieu remarked on not seeing some of the “harder” tannins found in some cuvées from vintages like 2022 or 2019, where there were signs of drought stress in the vineyards. Thierry Germain of Domaine des Roches Neuves echoed the sentiment noting his 2025 Cabernet Francs are “showing the ripe tannin quality of 2023, but with more flesh (gras).”

While the vintage was warm, sunny and dry, the well-timed rainfall during the growing season and cool nighttime temperatures allowed sugars to ripen gradually resulting in greater alignment of physiological and phenolic maturity when it came time for harvest. This, coupled with the beneficial dilution of the late August rains, meant alcohols were moderate with most vignerons noting a range of 12.5%-13.5%. Balanced alcohols alongside high acidities and low to moderate pH levels suggest that the Cabernet Francs of 2025 should offer very good aging potential over the long term.

Lessons Learned from Similar Vintages

By the numbers, the conditions experienced in 2025 were similar to vintages like 2022, 2020 and 2018. As climate change appears to be favouring Loire Valley Cabernet Franc, this track record of warmer and drier vintages in recent years has given winemakers valuable insight into how to work with their parcels and fruit to achieve better balance in the finished wines.

Matthieu Baudry of Domaine Bernard Baudry noted from experiences in 2022 and 2018 that paying “extra close attention to the harvest date” was particularly crucial to ensuring optimal balance of fruit ripeness in 2025. Arnaud Lambert also suggested that a successful 2025 vintage would require a "mindful approach to macerations and extractions." In vintages of superior ripeness, after all, the quality of the fruit can seduce even the most attentive winemaker into over-extracting.

That winemakers are drawing on years of accumulated experience to navigate these questions speaks to how far the region has come. 2025 could be the vintage that helps define what is possible for Loire Valley Cabernet Franc.

The Outlook

Based on my initial tastings and conversations with winemakers in December and February, I believe that 2025 is shaping up to be a legendary vintage for Loire Valley Cabernet Franc, perhaps even the best we have seen this century.

While the majority of wines I have tasted are a ways off from being finished and in the bottle, the wines are showing remarkably pristine, pure fruit character, lush and balanced herbal undertones, vibrant and refreshing acidities, and assertive yet pliable tannin structure with plenty of flesh and enveloping sucrocity.

The early-drinking, fruit-forward styles from across all appellations show a charming, moreish fruit character and ripe, well-managed tannins offering immediate accessibility and pleasure. The vins de garde offer concentration and density without heaviness, with a firm yet refined structure, layered fruit complexity, and lively, persistent acidities. The top cuvées parcellaires from the region’s elite vignerons will no doubt age exceptionally well for decades to come.

While it is still early days to fully evaluate the vintage, 2025 has the potential to be not only an exceptional one, but a complete one. From wines crafted for early drinking to vins de garde built for the cellar, the vintage looks set to offer something for everyone, from the curious, modern wine consumer discovering Loire Valley Cabernet Franc for the first time to the committed enthusiast or professional who has been following the region for years.

It seems Thomas Gambier's quiet confidence in the tuffeau cave has proven well-founded - the '5' has delivered. From a near-perfect growing season to wines of exceptional balance and promise, 2025 has all the hallmarks of the great vintages that preceded it, and the potential to set a new standard for greatness for Loire Valley Cabernet Franc.

Launched in late 2024, Cab Franc Forward is the brainchild of Max Rohn of Wölffer Estate and Gabriella Macari of Macari Vineyards, who set out to increase awareness of the quality and distinctiveness of Cabernet Franc from New York State. Partnering with six other founding wineries from across Long Island, the Finger Lakes and the Hudson Valley, the group’s promotional efforts over the last 15 months has garnered New York Cabernet Franc acclaim from influential journalists, top sommeliers and international wine critics, and has charted a course towards Cabernet Franc being the grape that could become synonymous with New York State on the global wine stage.

One State, One Grape

The concept of a signature grape is not new in the wine world. The grapes seen now as emblematic of specific European wine regions, whether that be Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Burgundy or Grüner Veltliner from Austria, achieved such status thanks to centuries of tradition and natural selection. Outside of Europe, such a concept is much more complex, with consumer preferences and trends often getting more weight in the decision making process as to what varieties are planted where over the suitability of a grape for a given terroir.

A reality that makes the decision to elevate Cabernet Franc as the signature grape for the entire state of New York so significant. While Cabernet Franc is one of the world’s single most important wine grapes, its global plantings and status are dwarfed by its progeny Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, not to mention it competes against more “fashionable” grapes like Syrah and Pinot Noir for shelf space and attention. Cabernet Franc is not the “obvious” choice for any winery or wine region. And yet this initiative on the part of the collective group of Cab Franc Forward member wineries and the state’s lawmakers makes New York State the first region of this scale outside of Europe to officially fly the Cabernet Franc flag high and proud.

What makes New York State uniquely positioned to be the premier US wine growing for the grape? According to Max Rohn, “Cabernet Franc is particularly well suited to New York’s climate… its versatility allows it to thrive across the state… producing a wide range of compelling styles shaped by site, season, and wine growing decisions.”

Having closely followed the region and regularly tasted examples of Cabernet Franc from across the state, I believe the grape’s versatility and adaptability could be New York’s greatest asset as it sets its sights on telling the story of New York Cabernet Franc in its own backyard and beyond.

Character, Creativity, Confidence

While Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir each have a generally accepted “style” - that is to say that the wine drinking public already has an idea in their mind of what will be in the bottle when they buy an example of either grape at a shop or a restaurant - Cabernet Franc, and single varietal Cabernet Franc more specifically, leaves the door open for interpretation. While this does pose its own challenges, it is also an opportunity for regions with cooler, more variable climates and vintage conditions, as has been demonstrated in the grape’s ancestral home and the only region in the world with a centuries-old tradition of producing single varietal Cabernet Franc, the Loire Valley.

In places where vintage variation is more pronounced, Cabernet Franc’s adaptability gives wine growers the opportunity to lean into what Mother Nature gives and produce wines that honestly reflect place and time. In warmer, sunnier years, Cabernet Franc can be more ripe, fruit-forward and plush, in cooler years, it can lead with verve, delicacy and perfume, not to mention the grape’s ability to produce expressive rosés and even whites, both in still and sparkling form. Across vintages and regions, New York State has the chance to shine a light on the diverse palette of expressions the grape is capable of.

“Cabernet Franc is malleable in all of the best ways. In the vineyard, it's adaptable. In the cellar, it's versatile. And, in the glass, Cabernet Franc seems quite limitless,” says Matthew Spaccarelli of Fjord Vineyards in the Hudson River Region, which is the smallest of the three principal regions where the grape is grown in the state. And what the Hudson River Region lacks in size of Cabernet Franc plantings (about 35 acres at last count), it makes up for it with commitment and enthusiasm, being the first region in the state to recognize Cabernet Franc as a star variety with founding of the Hudson Valley Cabernet Franc Coalition in 2016. “This malleability, combined with New York's cool climate and distinct regional differences,” Spaccarelli added “creates an opportunity for growers and winemakers alike to craft wines of distinction without compromising quality or varietal correctness.”

This “varietal correctness” in Cabernet Franc is somewhat of a polarizing topic. Part of what makes Cabernet Franc Cabernet Franc is its herbaceousness. In the Loire, this character trait is referred to as the grape’s “noble” herbaceous undertones, suggesting that these notes are part of the grape’s identity and should be celebrated. However, this herbal or “green” side of Cabernet Franc needs to be carefully managed in the vineyard and cellar in order to get the best kind of green expression in your Cabernet Franc. “New York’s strong concentration of small, quality-focused wineries also plays an important role,” Max Rohn noted “enabling hands-on vineyard management and careful attention to the farming decisions that keep green flavors in balance.” This small scale, attentive approach to viticulture has and will only continue to benefit the state’s producers over the long term. In my tastings over the years and from what was on offer at the Grand Tasting in February, it is clear that wine growers are becoming more attuned to the best ways to capture Cabernet Franc’s varietal character and showcase it in a way that feels authentic and distinct to the place and vintage.

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“In New York’s cool climate, the Cab Francs can be lower in alcohol and more food friendly. At the same time they offer more fruit character than some of the more traditional old world Cab Francs,” notes Bruce Murray of Boundary Breaks in the Finger Lakes, which, alongside Long Island, represent the majority of the state’s 638 acres of Cabernet Franc. While the Finger Lakes, Long Island and the Hudson Valley all experience very different growing seasons, the cool to moderate conditions that unify the state’s growing regions allow Cabernet Franc to achieve gradual and balanced ripening, while retaining lively acidities and restrained alcohols, regardless of vintage. This gives winemakers plenty of runway to craft wines that are true to the grape and reflect the unique attributes of their region, while also appealing to a diverse range of palates and preferences.

“We are in a discovery phase where many consumers are experiencing New York Cab Francs for the first time, and it is a pleasant surprise,” adds Murray. Whether they be juicy, unoaked styles, like Lamoreaux Landing’s 2023 “T23” Cabernet Franc, the Living Roots 2023 Cabernet Franc, Fjord Vineyards’s 2024 Estate Cabernet Franc, and Macari’s 2024 “Lifeforce” Cabernet Franc, or the plush, round examples such as Sheldrake Point’s 2023 Estate Cabernet Franc, the 2022 Cabernet Franc from Sannino Vineyard, Paumanok Vineyards’s 2023 Cabernet Franc, and Milea Estate’s 2023 Reserve Cabernet Franc, or something in between, New York’s winemakers are beginning to more confidently express the diversity and complexity that Cabernet Franc is capable of, all while honouring the grape’s fruit aromatics, varietal character, bright acidity, and elegant structure.

And when confidence is combined with patience, curiosity and intention, it is possible to craft Cabernet Francs that are deep and even personal reflections of grape, place and time, such as the Hermann J Wiemer 2023 Magdalena Vineyard Cabernet Franc, the single vineyard range from Forge Cellars, Damiani’s 2024 Valois Vineyard Cabernet Franc, and the Boundary Breaks 2024 Cabernet Franc Reserve. It is examples like these and other top expressions from across the state that show the potential of this grape when it is planted in the right place and handled with care and attention.

Focus for the Future

When wine growers see a glimpse of Cabernet Franc’s potential reflected in their own wines and the wines of their neighbours and colleagues, this is where the power of a collective focus on a single grape can truly benefit wine producers across New York State and make initiatives like Cab Franc Forward so critical to the grape’s success.

Events like the Grand Tasting not only give professionals and consumers a chance to discover the diversity of New York Cabernet Franc, but it also gives the winemakers and winery representatives themselves a chance to taste and discuss each other’s wines. An opportunity that invites conversation, collaboration and cooperation across the industry that can positively impact all aspects of what goes into making a bottle of wine, from vineyard, to cellar, to marketing and sales.

By elevating Cabernet Franc to “signature” status, New York State wineries are signalling to the world a belief in the grape, their terroirs, and their ability to produce wines of genuine distinction that communicate a sense of place. It is a declaration of confidence, but not insularity. For all its versatility and potential, Cabernet Franc rewards those who are patient, attentive and honest. The best producers understand that developing an intimate knowledge of their vineyards’ soils and microclimates is equally as important as regularly tasting and learning from the great expressions of the grape grown elsewhere in the world, from the Loire Valley to Italy, South Africa to Argentina, and beyond. Progress does not happen in a vacuum, and the winemakers who will define New York Cabernet Franc for decades to come will be those who are as curious about the world as they are rooted in their own backyard.

Giving Cabernet Franc star status is, of course, just the first step on a long journey. Building a regional identity around a single grape takes time, sustained effort, and the collective will that Cab Franc Forward has already begun to demonstrate. But the foundation on which the industry can continue to build is strong, and the wines, whether they are companionable everyday drinkers or single vineyard statements, they are making the argument that the best is yet to come.

What makes this moment truly exciting is not just the quality of the wines, but the enthusiasm and commitment behind them. Winemakers from across the Finger Lakes, Long Island, and the Hudson Valley are tasting each other’s work, sharing knowledge, and aligning around a shared purpose without sacrificing their individual voices. That balance of unity and diversity, of focus and freedom may ultimately be what defines New York Cabernet Franc.

In nearly every wine region outside of the Loire Valley, Cabernet Franc plays a supporting role and rarely the lead, but New York may prove to be exactly the stage Cabernet Franc has been waiting for. And for New York, Cabernet Franc may be exactly the grape it has been waiting for, too.

Cab Franc Forward 2026 Grand Tasting Participants

Finger Lakes: Apollo’s Praise, Atwater Vineyards, Boundary Breaks*, Damiani Wine Cellars, Dr. Konstantin Frank*, Forge Cellars, Hermann J. Wiemer*, Heron Hill Winery, Keuka Spring Vineyards, Lakewood Vineyards, Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars, Living Roots Wine & Co., Neverstill Wines, Ravines Wine Cellars, Red Newt Cellars, Ryan William Vineyard, Sheldrake Point Winery, Wagner Vineyards Estate Winery

Long Island: Clovis Point Vineyard and Winery, HORSES by Macari Vineyards, Lenz Winery, Macari Vineyards*, McCall Wines, One Woman Winery, Paumanok Vineyards*, Red Hook Winery, RGNY, Roanoke Vineyards, Sannino Vineyard, Suhru & Lieb Vineyards, Wölffer Estate Vineyard*

Hudson River Region: Airy Acres Vineyard, Benmarl Winery, Ev&Em Vineyards, Fjord Vineyards*, Milea Estate Vineyard*, Millbrook Vineyards & Winery, Rosina’s Winery, Whitecliff Vineyard

Niagara Escarpment: Arrowhead Spring Vineyards

*Cab Franc Forward Founding Wineries

Explore More New York Cabernet Franc

Here is a selection of my coverage of Cabernet Franc from New York State, in both video and written format.

Hermann J. Wiemer, 2019 Magdalena Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Finger Lakes

Forge Cellars, 2019 Willow Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Finger Lakes

Bedell Cellars, 2019 Cabernet Franc, North Fork of Long Island, Long Island

Heron Hill, 2020 Ingle Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Finger Lakes

Macari, 2021 'Lifeforce' Cabernet Franc, North Fork of Long Island

Boundary Breaks, 2023 Cabernet Franc, Finger Lakes

Travel and accommodations to attend the Cab Franc Forward 2026 Grand Tasting was provided by Cab Franc Forward.

On February 3rd, forty New York State wineries gathered to showcase over 250 wines from three principle regions as part of the Cab Franc Forward Grand Tasting. I am currently finishing a more detailed article on the event with some of my highlights and observations, but there was an impressive number of really delicious wines on offer that day. I focused my tasting efforts on producers that were new to me, but even there I didn’t see everyone I wanted. Styles ran the gamut from sparkling (blanc de noir and rosé), still rosé and reds of all shapes and sizes. I finally got to taste Sheldrake Point’s 2023 Beta Series Blanc de Cabernet Franc (11.2% abv., SRP $45USD) traditional method sparkling wine. Since its release, I’ve had a number of people tell me it was a must try, and it did not disappoint. Delightfully fresh, floral with lovely varietal character and a soft, silky mousse, it was very well made and styled in a manner that let the Cabernet Franc character shine through. Another Finger Lakes producer that was new to me but I have heard great things about time and time again was Damiani Wine Cellar. I tasted with viticulturalist Phil Davis, who’s tireless work in the vineyard to get Cabernet Franc “right” clearly showed through in their 2024 Barrel Select Cabernet Franc (13.2% abv.) and 2024 Valois Vineyard Cabernet Franc (14.1% abv.), both of which have yet to be released. After my brief time in Long Island last June, I was keen to discover some other producers from across the region, and I was so pleased to try the Sannino Vineyards 2022 Cabernet Franc (13.5% abv., SRP $35USD) and also the Red Hook Winery 2019 Cabernet Franc (14.0% abv., SRP $35USD) (sourced from the Jamesport Vineyard on the North Fork), both leaned in a Bordeaux-inspired style with inviting, plush fruit, well-integrated oak, varietal complexity and elegant tannin structure.

A handful of days after my time in New York, I was off to Wine Paris for the first time. Having previously attended ProWein and Vinexpo (the precursor to Wine Paris) many times throughout my career, I was really impressed with the organization and compactness of Wine Paris. My objective? Simply put, it was to meet and taste with as many Cabernet Franc producers as possible from all corners of the globe. I didn’t get through all of my tasting wish list, but I didn’t do too badly. And long story short, there is a lot of exciting Cabernet Franc being made in the world right now!

South America might be THE continent to watch outside of Europe for the variety at the moment, where there is not only momentum in terms of plantings, but also wines that are being made thoughtfully and with a definite sense of place. I tasted several examples from Uruguay, Chile and Argentina (sadly, I didn’t come across any at the Wines of Brazil stand), and very good wines are being made across all styles and price points.

Uruguay’s plantings of Cabernet Franc are far less than Chile and Argentina, but the wines I tasted highlighted the cooler, more maritime influenced climate, and offer a bridge between a classic “European” expression of the variety and a more fruit-forward example we might typically associate with “New World” wines. The Braccobosca 2024 Gran Ombú Cabernet Franc (14.0% abv., SRP $78USD) from Canelones is consistently one of the country’s top examples of the variety and one of my favourites from what I tasted from Uruguay. (I did a tasting video on the 2019 if you’re interested in learning more about this wine.) I also enjoyed the Viña Progreso 2024 Overground Cabernet Franc (14.0% abv., SRP $18-20USD), which is also from the region of Canelones.

From Chile, I have observed that Cabernet Franc as a star variety isn’t being embraced everywhere by everyone, rather there are “specialists” that have found over time that the grape has adapted well to their unique terroir and are showcasing it more prominently in their range. A perfect example would be icon winery Viña VIK in the Millahue sub-region of Cachapoal. In speaking with CEO Gastón Williams at Wine Paris, he shared with me that they have seen how well Cabernet Franc is thriving in their sites and have since transitioned their top flagship red (which retails for around $175USD) from being a Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant blend to Cabernet Franc-dominated as of the 2021 vintage. Both the 2021 VIK (14.5% abv., SRP $160USD) and 2022 VIK (14.5% abv., SRP $175USD), with 77% and 79% Cabernet Franc in the blend, respectively, showed impressive concentration and depth, with an elegant, restrained structure. Their 2023 “A” Cabernet Franc (14.0% abv., SRP $30USD) was also beautifully done.

The story of Cabernet Franc in Argentina is being written as we speak and it is a fascinating one to watch. Plantings of the variety are increasing exponentially and when walking the aisles of Wine Paris, nearly EVERY SINGLE producer from Mendoza present at the fair had at least ONE single varietal Cabernet Franc on offer. There was so much Argentinian Cabernet Franc available to taste, it was impossible to taste it all. Some highlights included the wines from Fabre-Montmayou, both their 2024 Reserva Cabernet Franc (14.0% abv., $15USD) from Luján de Cuyo and the Alta-Yarí 2024 Reserva Cabernet Franc (14.5% abv., SRP $22USD) from Gualtallary; I loved what I tasted from Casarena in Luján de Cuyo, both their 2024 Estate Cabernet Franc (13.5% abv., SRP $18USD) and the 2022 Lauren Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc (14.3% abv., SRP $35USD); and also from Luján de Cuyo, but more specifically the sub-region of Agrelo, Pulenta’s 2023 Cabernet Franc (14.0% abv., SRP $25USD) and 2021 Gran Cabernet Franc (14.0% abv., SRP $50USD) were both superb. The enthusiasm for Cabernet Franc has even inspired a new three-wine range from Corbeau Wines as part of their “Mad Bird” brand, which features a blanc de noir, rosé and red Cabernet Franc, all from the same parcel of vines planted in Maipú in Eastern Mendoza, the only thing that changes is the harvest date and the approach to winemaking. What impressed me the most about what I tasted from Argentina is the majority of wines are unoaked or vinified and aged in neutral vessels, and even at the super premium level, the use of new oak tends to be more restrained making an effort to highlight the fruit and character of the grape. From what I’ve tasted, the quality of Argentinian Cabernet Franc is very good and we’re probably just seeing the tip of the iceberg of what the country is capable of with the variety.

From North America, there was not as much Cabernet Franc being presented as I had hoped. (The exception being the New York Wines stand, which I passed by just to say a quick hello!) Most of the producers from California were presenting the benchmark grapes and wines from their respective regions, though I was delighted to taste the Trois Noix 2022 Cabernet Franc (14.0% abv., SRP $90USD) from Napa Valley made by founder/winemaker Jaime Araujo, which offered the best of what I would call Napa “typicity” and Cabernet Franc character. Two other Cabernet Francs of note came from the Pacific Northwest. From Two Mountain, who are based in the Rattlesnake Hills AVA of the Yakima Valley, an emerging AVA for Cabernet Franc, their 2023 Cabernet Franc Reserve (14.0% abv., SRP $30USD) was very nicely done. I also had the pleasure of meeting Bree Stock MW of Limited Addition Wines in the Willamette Valley, Oregon, who is so passionate about Cabernet Franc that she is making it a focus of her winemaking project producing several different expressions of the variety each vintage. She was pouring her 2023 Cabernet Franc Field Blend (13.0% abv., SRP $36USD), which was a great introduction to her work with Cabernet Franc, and I hope to do a proper feature on Bree and the project in the coming months.

From elsewhere around Europe, there was no denying the excitement around Cabernet Franc in Tuscany. Several producers from Bolgheri and the surrounding Tuscan hillsides were pouring a 100% Cabernet Franc, many of which were recent additions to a winery’s range, having made the decision to bottle a single varietal Cabernet Franc just in the last five or so years. The best examples offered a Goldilocks approach to capturing the ripe and sunny character of the fruit, letting Cabernet Franc’s varietal character show through in a way that showcased a sense of place, all while having balanced alcohols and a restrained approach to extractions and aging in oak. A couple favourites included the inaugural offering from Castello di Bolgheri, the 2021 Bolgheri Superiore “Barnica” (14.5% abv., SRP 200EUR) and also from around the hillsides of Pisa the Podere la Chiesa 2022 IGT Toscana Cabernet Franc (14.5% abv.). From Northeast Italy, Russiz Superiore continues to excel with the grape in the hillsides of Collio, and their 2022 Cabernet Franc DOC Collio (13.0% abv., $38USD/27EUR) is fragrant, spicy and herbal with plush, juicy fruit and bright acidity.

More and more single varietal Cabernet Franc is being produced in Bordeaux, and there was probably much more on offer at Wine Paris than I was able to taste, but I did have a few on my radar that I wanted to try. From Famille Bouyer in the commune of St-Christophe-des-Bardes in St-Emilion, their La Cure 2023 St-Emilion Grand Cru “Bouchet” (14.5% abv., SRP 40EUR) delivered lush, enveloping fruit, classic undertones of cedar, tobacco and violets, with velour-like tannins and focused acidity. From the satellite appellation of Lussac St-Emilion, Audren Dubreuil of Château de la Grenière first produced their “Franc Pour Cent” in 2021 as a way of highlighting and honouring the family’s small parcel of 100-year-old Cabernet Franc vines. The 2024 Lussac St-Emilion “Franc Pour Cent” (13.5% abv., SRP 22EUR) was absolutely delicious with a gorgeous floral and herbal perfume, taut, velvety tannins, and a beautifully refined structure. I also had a terrific tasting with Louis Gadais, Maître de Chai at Château Jean Faure in St-Emilion, who’s Grand Vin is one of a handful of St-Emilion Grand Cru wines that has historically always been Cabernet Franc-dominant. These wines will be featured in a more in-depth article in the coming months. Finally, I was thrilled to discover the Cabernet Franc-focused range from Jurançon-native and up-and-coming Bordeaux vigneron Hugues Laborde, who is harnessing his passion for Cabernet Franc to showcase the diversity of terroirs and soils across the regions of Entre-Deux-Mers, Fronsac and St-Emilion. I am also working on an in-depth feature on these wines to shine a light on Hugues’s story and work with the grape.

As I am in the Loire regularly throughout the year, I didn’t taste much from the region at Wine Paris, though I did have an opportunity to attend a dinner hosted by Chinon’s Domaine de la Chapelle at Yannick Alléno’s restaurant at the Pavillon Ledoyen. The dinner featured the estate’s current offering of whites and reds, include the 2024 Chinon “Les Joueurs” (12.0% abv., SRP 16EUR), 2023 Chinon “Les Lutteurs” (12.0% abv., SRP 24EUR) and 2023 Chinon “Les Bâtisseurs” (12.5% abv., SRP 40EUR). As the domaine has transitioned under new owner and real estate developer Laurent Dumas, and also recently bringing on Romain Guiberteau as consultant, this is a domaine to watch in the years ahead. I had a more thorough visit of the domaine with Chef de Culture Cédric Monroy planned for the following week, but sadly due to excessive rains across the Loire, the Vienne overflowed its banks and the domaine was inaccessible the day of my scheduled visit, so a more in-depth profile on this estate will be prioritized for when I get back to the Loire later in the spring. (I did a video feature on the domaine and their 2023 Les Lutteurs last year for those that are eager to learn more.)

Following Wine Paris, I was in the Loire for a little over a week and had several tasting visits with producers from across the region, including Le Petit Saint Vincent and Château de Villeneuve in Saumur-Champigny, Domaine Dozon in Chinon, Le Clos du Vigneau/Domaine des Vallettes in St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, and Maison Audebert et Fils, Domaine Stéphane Guion and Lamé-Delisle-Boucard in Bourgueil. I’ll be writing profiles on the domaines and wines in the coming months, but you can check out my Instagram highlights for a preview in the meantime. On my last two trips to the Loire, I have also tasted a number of 2025s from producers across the region, so I am writing a little “preview” of the vintage at the moment as well.

A couple other wines of note I enjoyed this month include Domaine Moly’s 2024 Saumur-Champigny “Les Sybarites” (12% abv., SRP $28USD/20EUR), which I first tasted with Etienne at the domaine and then later in the week over a few days. Newly released, the 2024 does benefit from a bit of oxygen to let it open up, but when it does, this wine is a knockout. Showing impressive concentration for the vintage, it leads with bright pink and purple florals and succulent fruit, continuing with firm, chalky tannins and plenty of stuffing, and concluding with a nervy, herbal, piquant finish. A touch austere now, it will reward with time in the cellar, but what a beautifully made wine, particularly from a challenging vintage like 2024. It proves the old adage that the combination of vigneron(ne) and vineyard will trump vintage more times than not. (I wrote a feature on Domaine Moly in May 2024 if you’re interested to learn more about the domaine.)

From another up-and-coming vigneron, Aurélien Revillot’s 2023 Bourgueil “Sur les Hauts” (12.5% abv., SRP $25USD/20EUR), which I picked up at Enfin du Vin, a terrific caviste in Candes-St-Martin. From parcels on the slopes predominantly in Benais in Bourgueil, the 2023 is absolutely delicious right from the pop of the cork - pure, fragrant with just the right amount of Cabernet Franc earthiness. Lush blue and red fruits, with notes of tarragon, basil, rich humus, pink peppercorn and cardamon, the silky tannins are beautifully enveloped by succulent fruits, finishing with persistent, mouthwatering acidity. Aurélien’s approach with Cabernet Franc leans a touch more modern with polish and refinement without feeling pretentious or too intricate, and the 2023 Sur les Hauts highlights this balance of precision and approachability. (You can learn more about Aurélien’s story and the 2018 vintage of this wine here.)

Phew! I don’t know about you, but I’m thirsty! That’s it for February. Thank you so much for reading and your continued support. As you’ve read, there is a lot in the pipeline, so I’ll be gracing your inbox again soon.

M & S Bouchet, 2010 “Le Sylphe” Cabernet Franc, Vin de France (Montreuil-Bellay) (13.5% abv., SRP $25USD/15.00EUR): This domaine is likely a new discovery for some. Historically known as Domaine de Château Gaillard, Matthieu and Sylvanie Bouchet took up reigns at the family domaine in 1990 following the retirement of Matthieu’s father François. François Bouchet is widely regarded as one of the fathers of biodynamic viticulture in France having started farming biodynamically at his own domaine in 1962 and going on to consult for the likes of Domanie Leflaive, Domaine Leroy and others. Matthieu and Sylvanie still farm biodynamically today and produce a mere 2000 cases annually from their old vines (averaging 40 to 80 years old). The 2010 “Le Sylphe” is at a beautiful place in its evolution. It unfurls with a mix of red and dark fruits (dried blueberry, cranberry-raspberry fruit leather), along with notes of lush evergreen, juniper, bay leaf and star anise. Fine, enveloping tannins highlight the evolving layers of potting soil, dried leaves, earl grey tea, green peppercorn and sumac. A generous and sultry mid-palate leads to an ethereal, feather-weight finish that is long on flavour and complexity. A graceful, contemplative wine, ideal for a solo New Year’s Eve dinner (speaking from experience!) accompanied by duck confit and gratin dauphinois.

Yannick Amirault, 2024 Bourgeuil “Côte 50” (12.5% abv., SRP $30USD/14.00EUR): I have written about the Côte 50 on a number of occasions here and it is a wine I revisit as often as I can. I visited with Benoît Amirault in December where we tasted some of the 2025s from tank, but also their current releases, including this 2024, the first of two wines from this challenging vintage that are currently available at the domaine. Back on home soil, I spent a bit more time with this wine and was very excited to follow its evolution over a few days. The wine opens with absolutely exquisite aromatics: heady notes of purple flowers, bergamot and pink peppercorns mixing with tiny sweet-tart forest berries. On opening, the palate was a touch austere, angular and little out of sync, but a bit of patience is this wine’s best friend. On the second day, those hard edges softened to reveal a fresh, delicately structured palate with fine, chalky tannins and bright, zippy acidity. Light bodied and refined with a snappy, raspberry-flecked middle palate and a peppery finish, I think this wine will be even better in about three to six months time.

Domaine Guiberteau, 2019 Saumur Rouge ‘Les Chapaudaises’ (13.0% abv., SRP $65USD/40.00EUR: I have a decent amount of Cabernet Franc from Domaine Guiberteau in my cellar, and opening a bottle is always an exercise in patience, particularly for his two top cuvée parcellaires, namely Les Chapaudaises from the commune of Épieds (formerly Bizay) and Les Arboises from Brézé. I followed this wine over four days, which I appreciate isn’t a practical exercise should you come across it in a restaurant, but if you have this in your cellar, the lesson here is time is on your side. Upon opening, the wine was relatively closed on the nose and palate, showing densely packed and concentrated notes of ripe dark fruit and earth, pronounced acidity and firm, taut tannins that lacked integration with the wine’s body and aromatics. By day four, the wine really showed its true colours. Expressive, with lifted florals (lavender, violets), vivid earthy and herbal undertones (dried rosemary, bay leaf, cedar wood and leaves), and fragrant spicy notes (sandalwood, cardamom, dried ginger). Structurally, the wine became beautifully knit together and more harmonious on the palate. The tannins became elongated and silky, the acidity softened, yet remained persistent through the finish, providing focus, tension, and digeste drinkability. This is truly an exceptional wine. If you have this in your cellar, consider holding it for at least another five years. I think this will start to hit its stride in 2031-2032.

Domaine de Nerleux, 2022 Saumur-Champigny (13.5% abv., SRP 11.80EUR): From a selection of the estate’s parcels in the commune of Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg in southern Saumur-Champigny, this 2022 from vigneronne Amélie Neau and her team is a textbook, early-drinking expression from Saumur-Champigny. The 2022 vintage, while exceptional in its own right, certainly tested a vigneron’s ability to produce fruity, easy-drinking reds. The vintage provided ideal conditions for rich, structured concentrated reds, so to craft an “entry-level” wine that is approachable and “digeste” required a careful, gentler hand. Domaine de Nerleux knocked it out of the park here. Delightfully fresh and lifted, with a balanced underpinning of earth (violets, thyme, mint, cedar leaves) and piquant, peppery spice (pink and green peppercorns), the palate is plush and juicy, with refreshing acidity and supple, velvety tannins. With a bit more stuffing and substance to take it beyond being a simple quaffer, it shows the vintage beautifully but with a restrained, elegant hand. Approachable and friendly, this wine is such a joy to drink and over-delivers for the price point.

Arnaud Lambert, 2022 Saumur Rouge “Mazurique” (14.0% abv., SRP $25USD/15.00EUR): This is another wine I have tasted and re-tasted on a number of occasions, and it is always interesting to see where a particular vintage is at in terms of its evolution. The wine is coming from a cooler, clay-rich lieu-dit in southern Brézé and I find that even in a warm, sunny, dry vintage like 2022, this wine always needs a little bit longer to come around (particularly compared to Arnaud’s Saumur-Champigny “Terres Rouges” from the same vintage). A touch reductive on opening, with a bit of oxygen, the wine shows plush, “sunny” ripe blue and red fruits with a distinctive cool climate, foresty undertone, reminiscent of spruce and fir. Densely packed and concentrated on the palate, with cleansing acidity and firm, luxe, crushed velvet tannins, the wine is layered, richly spiced (allspice, nutmeg, clove) and has a pronounced “clayey” mineral edge. Full bodied and round, with an enveloping mid-palate experience, this wine punches well above its weight class, and while it is one of the domaine’s “early-drinking” expressions, this wine has so much concentration and depth, it will definitely continue to improve with time in the bottle.

Catena Zapata, 2023 San Carlos Appellation Cabernet Franc (13.5% abv., SRP $22USD): The Uco Valley is emerging as the epicentre for growth in Cabernet Franc plantings in Argentina. The region of San Carlos is the southernmost sub-region in the Uco Valley and benefits from being one of the coolest in Mendoza, as well as boasting a bevy of “crus” including Paraje Altamira and Pampa El Cepillo. This wine is from a selection of parcels from across San Carlos at an average elevation of 1090m above sea level, and sees a rather classic approach to red wine vinification with 12 months in French oak barrels (30-40% new). Expressive, fragrant and spicy, the nose and palate show balanced aromatics with all the components (fruit, earth, spice, wood) working in tandem. Ripe, fleshy red fruits, notes of Mediterranean herbs and eucalyptus, rose, and spicy undertones of black pepper, crushed red chilli flakes and cinnamon. The palate shows the markers of the vintage, with elevated, mouthwatering acidity and fine, firm chalky tannins that combine with the fruit to create a wine that has flesh and concentration without being bulky, while also being well-structured with drinkability, pliability and ease. This really feels like a real “food” wine to me, so I would consider pairing this with a classic peppercorn-rubbed grilled steak or a black pepper beef stir fry with peppers and cabbage.

Finally, being a recap of January and all, I can’t pass up the opportunity to shine a light on Cabernet Franc Icewine. If you are not familiar with this particular style of Cabernet Franc, it is worth seeking out. I put together a short video giving an overview of this style, how it is made and how best to enjoy it. An absolute delight for those who love naturally sweet dessert wines.

Now, looking ahead to February, I have a bit of travel lined up, including a brief visit to New York City for the Cab Franc Forward Grand Tasting on Tuesday and then off to France for Wine Paris and some visits in the Loire. No doubt there will be lots of interesting highlights to talk about in a months time!

As always, thank you for reading, and for all of your continued support.

Established in 2000, Stratus Vineyards ushered in a new era of grape growing and winemaking in Ontario producing super premium wines with a strong focus on innovation and sustainability. Leaning on the European tradition of assemblage, founding winemaker and Loire-native J-L Groux anchored the Stratus portfolio of wines with their flagship Stratus Red and Stratus White, which are ever-changing blends crafted from the diverse palette of ten red grapes and six white planted at the estate. While the winery does have a few more unusual varieties (for Ontario) planted, like Tempranillo, Sangiovese and Tannat, about 18 of their 55 acres (a third!) are planted with Cabernet Franc.

Since the beginning, the winemaking philosophy for Stratus’s red wines has reflected the classic, Bordelais approach with a focus on extended macerations and longer aging in French oak barriques (225L and 228L) with a higher percentage of new oak. With J-L now semi-retired and winemaker Dean Stoyka at the helm since 2022, Dean has begun to introduce some new techniques and vessels (including amphorae, concrete eggs, 500L demi-muids, and a few larger Stockinger foudres) into the mix to creatively expand the Stratus offering, which I think has only benefited their work with Cabernet Franc.

At the core of their philosophy with respect to Cabernet Franc is meticulous work in the vineyard, including rigorous leaf removal and canopy management to ensure maximum sun exposure to help with ripening, and also green harvesting when necessary to balance yields. Stratus also prefers to give their Cabernet Franc very long hang-time, typically waiting to harvest until after the first frost well into November making them often one of the last wineries in the region to start harvesting their reds. The result is a range of Cabernet Francs that maximize ripeness and concentration, while still remaining true to the grape’s identity and feeling (to me, at least) unmistakably “Niagara” in the glass. “Powerful yet elegant” is how Dean described Cabernet Franc for him as we concluded our tasting, and I think that perfectly articulates the estate’s range of Cabernet Francs. Generous and gregarious, the Stratus Cabernet Francs showcase polished, modern styling with impressive depth and concentration that will reward with cellaring.

2024 Cabernet Franc Rosé, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake (12.5% abv., $32CAD): Consistently one of my favourite Cabernet Franc rosés being made in the Niagara Peninsula, the 2024 from Stratus takes a slightly different approach in the cellar than previous vintages using two different techniques: 50% rosé by saignée and 50% direct press. The resulting wine might be my favourite iteration of the Stratus Rosé to date. Fresh and refreshing, with a savoury and salty mid-palate that continues through the finish. Layered with notes of lavender, tarragon and thyme, the wine is fleshy and “gourmand,” that is to say it is a very gastronomic style of rosé that has just the right amount of structure to take it beyond being a quaffable, patio sipper to something that would work well on the table. Serious stuff.

2022 Cabernet Franc, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake (14.3% abv., $49CAD): The Stratus “Black Label” range of red wines leans on the traditional Bordeaux-inspired styling that J-L Groux became known for when Stratus marched onto the scene in 2000. Since Dean has taken over in the cellar, the proportion of new oak, particularly in the Cabernet Franc, has decreased significantly, and the 2022 only sees 7% new oak during its 553 days of oak élevage. Ripe and plush with a mix of black raspberry and red cherry fruit, with notes of mint, violets, tobacco and peppery spice. Concentrated with fine, firm, velvety tannins, and a long refreshing finish. Pure, with superb depth and balance. Classic and classy. Like so many of Stratus’s reds, this is a wine that will age gracefully, but the generosity of fruit and restrained structure provides pleasure in the short term.

2022 Cabernet Franc “Escarpment,” VQA Niagara Escarpment (14.1% abv., Licensee only): While only available to licensees (ie. restaurants, bottle shops), this was a fascinating wine to taste in this line-up and I’m so pleased Dean included it in the tasting. Sourced from the Wismer Vineyard on the Niagara Escarpment, this wine was essentially made the exact same way as the classic Stratus “Black Label” allowing the “terroir” to be on full display - and the two 2022s couldn’t be more different. The “Escarpment” Cabernet Franc leads with bright, ripe red fruit, soft sage, dusty herbs, and floral notes of rose and peony. Succulent fruit envelops fine, linen-like tannins, and it displays the hallmark concentration and depth of all the Stratus Cabernet Francs, but with a bit more of that verticality, focus and tension that I often find in “Bench” Cabernet Francs. Not only did this stand out in the line-up as almost being a bit Loire-esque but with more weight and ripeness, but it also helped emphasize the strength of Status’s own vineyard “signature” for Cabernet Franc and the strong through-line across the rest of the wines in the tasting regardless of the vintage or approach to winemaking.

2022 White Label Cabernet Franc Amphora, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake (14.1% abv., $65CAD): The first vintage of the new “White Label” came to be with the 2020 vintage and this range represents excellence in viticulture and winemaking at Stratus. Only produced in the best vintages, the parcel destined for the White Label Cabernet Franc bottling will change depending on the vintage conditions and is selected for quality at the time of harvest. In the cellar, Dean has chosen amphorae as his preferred aging vessel for this Cabernet Franc in order to highlight the purity of fruit and expression of place. Showing the winery’s signature bolder, riper fruit profile, the 2022 White Label displays a sultry, pure, dark fruited profile of crême de cassis and black raspberry pâté aux fruits layered with notes of dried oregano, rose potpourri, sandalwood, delicate spices and a touch of wet stone minerality. Sumptuously textured with tightly woven, cashmere-like tannins, the plush, voluminous palate is balanced by cleansing acidity and a firm, focused finish.

2024 “Trials” Cabernet Franc Zero-Zero, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake (14.5% abv., $55CAD): The exceptional 2020 vintage also marked the debut of Stratus’s “Trials” range of wines, which are small batch experiments following the “zero-zero” philosophy of no additions, no added sulphites, and no filtration. The 2024 “Trials” Cabernet Franc was aged briefly (90 days) in neutral French oak. Perfumed and a touch exotic on the nose and palate, with a mélange of ripe, red and dark fruits like confit red cherries and black raspberry coulis, layered herbals and florals of sage, jasmine and lavender, mixing with notes of fennel seed, star anise, and pink peppercorn. Round, a touch creamy, and richly textured, while also having an unmistakeable low-fi energy and verve. Vibrant, avant garde and impeccably crafted, this wine feels akin to the “classic” Stratus Cabernet Franc, while being more youthful, unadorned, and, for lack of a better word, “hip.” A Stratus Cabernet Franc for a new generation of wine drinker.

2020 Cabernet Franc “Decant”, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake (14.9% abv., $145CAD): Only produced in excellent vintages, Stratus began to bottle their Cabernet Franc “Decant” in 2014 - a wine that represents the pinnacle of the estate’s work with the variety. It is a barrel selection that sees longer aging (614 days) in French oak with a larger proportion of new wood (40%). The wine is then bottled in a one-of-a-kind custom bottle that is not only eye-catching but was designed to catch sediment as the wine is poured. Concentrated and densely packed with notes of blackcurrant and plum, mixing with evergreen sous-bois, fragrant twiggy herbs like rosemary, and rounded out by elegantly integrated oak and varietal spice (star anise, clove). Rich and enveloping on the palate, its cleansing acidity balances the wine’s opulent and luxe mouthfeel, while firm, fine, meaty tannins give the wine excellent structure helping to frame the fruit beautifully and setting it up to age well over the long term. Interestingly, it reminded me of some recent vintages of Couly-Dutheil’s Clos de l’Echo! This is an impressive wine that marries power, concentration and elegance. Best after 2030 and shared with Right Bank Bordeaux-loving wine enthusiasts.

So, here are some of the wines that excited my palate in the last month of 2025!

The main purpose of my trip to South Africa was to give a masterclass on Cabernet Franc for the Cape Winemakers Guild.1 I recently posted about the experience in more detail on Instagram, and I also shared the 13-wine line-up of incredible Cabernet Francs from around the world that were part of the masterclass. Each wine was intended to tell a story of people, place and a grape, while also speaking about what the future may hold for Cabernet Franc in each region, as well as broader trends and themes I’m seeing and hearing from my research and tastings. So, here are some highlights from that line-up.

Tuscany featured heavily in the tasting, with three wines from across the region, and a particular focus on Bolgheri, which has seen incredible growth in Cabernet Franc plantings in recent years. Cabernet Franc is now the #2 planted variety (behind Cabernet Sauvignon) and plantings have increased by 132% in the last ten years. One of the wines I presented was the 2021 Paleo Rosso from Le Macchiole (14.5% abv., SRP $170USD). Le Macchiole was the first to make a 100% Cabernet Franc in the region in 2001, and it has been a few years since I have tasted this wine. Of the all the wines in the tasting it saw the highest percentage of new oak (90%) for aging, and I was really impressed by the balance and integration of the wood with the fruit and structure in the wine. Fleshy, riper dark fruits were nicely balanced by notes of cypress, oregano and dried lavender. Fine, velvety tannins, with balanced freshness, it is a rich, more opulent style of Cabernet Franc with poise, polish and just the right amount of restraint.

Also from Europe, I made sure to feature a wine from Hungary, and specifically the region of Villány, which has named Cabernet Franc as its signature variety. There is around 1500 hectares of Cabernet Franc planted in Hungary (more than all of California), and Villány even has an official PDO for 100% Cabernet Franc from the region called Villányi Franc. For the masterclass, I presented the Malatinszky, 2013 ‘Kuria’ Cabernet Franc (14.5% abv., SRP $70USD), and this wine was an absolute stunner. Many examples of Villány Cabernet Franc I’ve tasted feels a little “Parkerized” and overdone for my palate, but this wine really had a sense of place and character. With notes of ripe red fruits and green Turkish fig, mixing with beautiful spice layers of paprika, chilli flake and cinnamon. It was in a beautiful spot in its evolution, with soft, chalky tannins, superb concentration and density through the mid-palate, and a fresh, elegant, lingering finish. World class.

South America also played an important role in the masterclass and one of the wines that I was really excited to pour was the Bodega Garzón 2022 “Petit Clos” Cabernet Franc (13.0% abv., SRP $65USD) from Maldonado, Uruguay. Plantings of Cabernet Franc are relatively small in Uruguay (about 200ha), but I have loved what I’ve tasted from across the country so far. Beautifully fragrant, with lifted, fresh red fruit and herbal (thyme, tarragon) aromas, finishing with succulent spicy notes of dried ginger and cardamom. Lively acidity, with firm, chalky tannins, the wine had a great sense of verticality to it, with superb tension, concentration and length. The wine has a really classic “Old World” energy about it, contemporary in styling, with subtly and finesse working in tandem with weight and depth. Impressive.

Back in the Loire Valley, my visits were primarily with domaines I know well and I usually have the opportunity to taste their wines regularly throughout the year. One exception on this trip was a visit to Domaine Michel Thibault in Bourgueil. I discovered the domaine back in August, and was instantly smitten with the wines. Officially retired since 2014, Michel is now in his late 70s and has sold off or is renting out all but 0.90 hectares of his vines, which he has kept for himself so that he can continue to farm and make wine every year. The domaine was one of the first in Bourgueil to farm organically, which they have been since 1974.

Michel’s style is old school, using foudres built in the 1930s to vinify his reds, aging them in old 500L oak barrels. His current release, the 2022 Bourgueil (13.5% abv., SRP 7.00EUR) is for lovers of traditionally-styled, earthy Loire Valley Cabernet Franc. Dark fruited, with undertones of herbs, cedar, potting soil and spice. Fine chalky tannins, with mouthwatering acidity that brings that lovely “digeste” drinkability to the wine. It does show a bit of the “solaire” character of the vintage, but with superb restraint as well. As an elder in the region from an era long since past, some might consider his style “rustic,” but the wines are clean and well-made, and I find them wonderfully charming and honest. Michel also has a superb selection of library vintages of his classic Bourgueil Rouge and also his “Cuvée Alouette” (his top wine) all priced between 7.00and 8.00EUR. Worth a stop if you’re in the region and appreciate mature, old school Loire Cabernet Franc.

And at the complete opposite end of the Loire Valley Cabernet Franc spectrum and a domaine that needs no introduction, I had the pleasure of spending a few hours with Thierry and Louis Germain of Domaine des Roches Neuves on this trip, which was my first time paying a visit to the domaine in a few years. We tasted through the 2024 and 2023 cuvées parcellaires, and I got a preview of the 2025s as well. I will share a bit more on those wines in another post, but in appreciation of Cabernet Francs that are available now and drinking beautifully, I wanted to highlight the estate’s Cuvée Domaine.

From a selection of parcels, the 2024 Cuvée Domaine (12.0% abv., SRP $30USD/ 15EUR) from Domaine des Roches Neuves is a really exemplary expression from the vintage. If you recall, 2024 was a challenging year. Cooler than recent vintages, with significant rainfall throughout the year, which continued through harvest. It might be considered a “classic” Loire vintage, but with improvements in viticulture and winemaking in recent decades, it means the wines are markedly better than what we would’ve seen from a vintage with similar conditions from the 1980s or 1990s. Like many of the top estates, Domaine des Roches Neuves did “declassify” some parcels and cuves from their single vineyard wines to add to the domaine cuvée to improve the estate’s offering from the vintage as a whole. I love this expression of Saumur-Champigny. Pure, delicate, floral, it playfully dances across the palate with energetic, snappy acidity and fine, silky tannins. Tense and nervy, sophisticated and refined, this will continue to round out with a bit of time in the bottle. Just lovely.

The day I visited Roches Neuves, Jeanne Germain was also at the domaine tasting her range with some clients. Jeanne has charted her own course as a vigneronne and is working with some of the family’s parcels in the communes of Saumur and Dampierre-sur-Loire. In the cellar, she works meticulously following a zero-zero philosophy (no additions or SO2 whatsoever). Her 2023s are drinking beautifully at the moment. The 2023 Saumur-Champigny “Bavardages” (12.5% abv., SRP 15EUR) is her “vin de soif” expression of Cabernet Franc, and the wine totally delivers on this promise. Lively, crunchy, with juicy red fruits, and subtle herbal undertones, it is delightfully quaffable, crushable and a joy to drink. The 2023 Saumur-Champigny “La Foulée” (13.0% abv., SRP 20EUR) is a bit more classically styled from parcels in the same lieu-dit as Roches Neuves’s La Marginale, which is a very clayey site. Sometimes in years with a bit more rainfall (like 2023 and 2024), these clayey sites produce wines that take a bit more time to come around, but the 2023 La Foulée is drinking superbly, showcasing a varietally-forward fruit profile with darker fruit and fragrant earthy-woodsy undertones (cedar, thyme), enveloping tannins that are cashmere-like in texture with cleansing acidity, and an energetic, peppery finish.

I also paid a visit to Domaine Yannick Amirault in Bourgueil to get Benoît’s take on the 2025 vintage and also tasted some of their current releases. At the end of our tasting, we enjoyed a simple lunch with the team, and knowing my love for older vintages and it being close to the holidays and all, Benoît opened a bottle of the 2008 St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil “Les Malgagnes” (13.0% abv.) for us to try. These parcels in eastern St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil on the slopes represent the estate’s heritage and where it all began with Benoît’s great-grandfather back in the 1930s. The Les Malgagnes, for me, is always a bit more about charm and subtlety versus their Le Grand Clos, which I always find to be a bit more of an “impact” wine that is luxurious and regal. A more classic vintage, 2008 is one that I enjoy quite a bit and I find many examples to be showing quite well at the moment, and the 2008 Les Malgagnes is no exception. Fine, silky, with heady florals of rose potpourri, sandalwood and dried tarragon, and a kiss of star anise through the finish, it is generous without being “gourmand,” that is to say it is giving and enveloping, but also remaining poised and reserved. Exquisite.

Finally, as it is the holidays, it is worth mentioning what graced my Christmas Eve and Christmas Day tables.

You could say that this might be too nerdy an exercise to do for the holidays, but I wanted to do a little multi-region, “Cabernet Franc-on-Clay” exploration. So my Christmas Eve duck confit was accompanied by the Bernard Baudry, 2017 Chinon ‘Le Clos Guillot’ (13.0% abv.). (This parcel does have a tuffeau impact, but there is a good depth of clay in the topsoil before hitting the bedrock.) Admittedly, I probably should’ve opened this wine up much earlier in the day than I did, but it did deliver on the aromatic and structural profile I was hoping for to match with the crisp-fattiness of the duck confit and the savoury, earthy braised flageolet beans with lardons that I made to accompany the protein.

Christmas Day dinner was a classic, English-style roast beef dinner with all the fixings (including Yorkshire pudding). I opted for Cabernet Francs from clay-dominated terroirs because normally I find the tannins to be a bit more dense and impactful, which I thought would stand up well to the beef. So, the line-up included the 2019 Saumur-Champigny “La Marginale” from Domaine des Roches Neuves (13.5% abv.), the 2016 Gran Enemigo “Agrelo” (Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina, 13.5% abv.) from El Enemigo, and the Vineland Estates Winery, 2022 Cabernet Franc Reserve (Niagara Peninsula, ON, Canada, 14.0% abv., SRP $53CAD). All three wines delivered the tannin and structural profile I was hoping for, that is, broad and enveloping with densely packed velvety tannins. The Marginale was more red fruited, spicy and energetic, while the Gran Enemigo Agrelo was more dark fruited, supple and luxurious, and the Vineland Reserve fell somewhere in between, with a youthful, plush fruit profile that gives it this moreish drinkability. Everyone at the table graciously appeased my nerdiness and all wines were whole heartedly enjoyed by those that imbibed.

Thank you for reading this issue of my newsletter! Wishing you all a 2026 filled with balance, happiness, prosperity, and wine glasses overflowing with deliciousness (Cabernet Franc or otherwise!). My sincerest thanks for all your continued enthusiasm and support for Cab Franc Chronicles. I raise my glass of Cabernet Franc tonight to all of you!

This year brought with it not only some incredible opportunities and experiences, but also the odd wrinkle that wasn’t on my 2025 Bingo Card at the start of the year.

I was fortunate to have visited a few new wine regions this year, Long Island and the Hudson Valley (thank you, Cab Franc Forward and the New York Wine & Grape Foundation) and also South Africa (thank you, Raats Family Wines). During my brief time (about 48 hours!) in Long Island and Hudson Valley, I was able to get a better idea of the Cabernet Franc picture in these two regions, particularly compared to the Finger Lakes, which will help shape my coverage of the grape for New York State as a whole. And my time in South Africa was my first real in-depth look at the Cabernet Franc scene in Stellenbosch and beyond, and I am looking forward to sharing my discoveries here and on Instagram in the months ahead.

I also travelled to the Loire Valley four times this year - a region that has, in more ways than one, become my second home. I attended the trade salons in February, and later returned in May to give a masterclass for international journalists on behalf of Wines of the Loire Valley as part of their annual press trip, Loire Millésime. And I was back again in June for La Paulée d’Anjou, where I co-led a masterclass on red wines of Anjou with sommelier and journalist Jérôme Gagnez.

Herein lies the first wrinkle (or maybe gift… TBD) of 2025. My June Loire trip was supposed to be a week. That’s all the vacation time I could spare. And then, rather unexpectedly, I was let go from my job in late May (thanks, Trump-Canada tariff war!). Out of a job, having not yet booked my flight to France for June, and with the love of my life in the Loire as well, I decided that a summer in the Loire would be as good for my palate as for my heart and soul. All told, I was in the region for about eight weeks, as I wrote about in a few Substack posts (#’s 63, 64, 65) recapping my time, and I did try to balance Cab Franc Chronicles work, self-reflection and a bit of vacances. I probably would’ve stayed in the Loire right through until harvest had it not been for 2025 Wrinkle #2 - becoming mom to a then-8-week-old furry, four-legged creature (a dream 24-years-in-the-making come true!) Labour Day weekend, a story I shared in my September Tasting Diaries post.

All of this personal roller coaster aside, I still managed to have a “productive” year (though far shy of my goals) content-wise with in-depth tasting videos and written Substack posts (16 and soon-to-be 20, respectively). I also recorded three podcast episodes with wine writer David Furer for his podcast “Drinking on the Edge,” one of which (on the Finger Lakes) has already been released with others episodes to be released and new ones to be recorded in 2026. Finally, Cab Franc Chronicles also turned 5 this fall, which in itself is an exciting milestone.

Now, before I share some of my most memorable wines and moments of 2025, I wanted to highlight a few of the top posts from Instagram/YouTube and Substack from the last year for those that may have missed them.

From Instagram/YouTube (videos):

El Enemigo, 2012 Gran Enemigo “Gualtallary” Cabernet Franc, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina (posted January 27)

Boundary Breaks, 2023 Cabernet Franc, Finger Lakes, New York, USA (posted April 8)

Loire Valley Cabernet Franc: 16 wines, 9 appellations (posted May 30)

From Substack:

My Most Memorable Cabernet Francs - 2025 Edition!

From the Loire Valley

Having spent as much time in the Loire as I did this year, I tasted a lot of incredible wines. I mean A LOT. I spent the last few days re-reading my notes and sifting through my phone looking at bottle shots hoping to narrow the over a thousand wines tasted this year to a mere handful of memorable bottles and moments. Not an easy task I’ll have you know! But here are some Loire Valley Cabernet Francs from the last year that I continue to dream about.

For the first time (and certainly not the last!) I was in the Loire for my birthday. Special occasions always add to the memorability factor for any wine, but the 2017 Anjou Rouge Cabernet Franc from Clau de Nell was really a stunning wine. Enjoyed at the restaurant La Route du Sel in Thoureil, on a gorgeous June evening, at a table overlooking the Loire River with my beau, this wine was at a terrific spot in its evolution, with layers of exotic spices and potpourri, finely structured and beautifully balanced. At around 40EUR on the list, what made this wine even more exceptional was how well it paired with our main course, which was a fragrant Moroccan-spiced lamb collar with salsa verde and yogurt. It was one of those absolutely delicious food and wine pairings that will remain at the top of my list for years to come.

Over the years, I have been fortunate to have had the opportunity to taste multiple vintages of the same cuvée with several Loire Valley domaines. But none quite as memorable as the 28-wine tasting with Christophe and Sandrine Deschampes of Domaine du Chêne Arrault in Bourgueil. On a rather unassuming Tuesday afternoon in July, Christophe, Sandrine and I went down into the depths of the domaine’s cave at the communal Caves du Grand Mont for three or so hours to taste through a selection of vintages of their Vieilles Vignes cuvée ranging from 2019 and concluding with the legendary 1947 vintage. It was a fascinating study in the ageability of Cabernet Franc and Loire Valley vintages for reds. Some of my favourite wines were from “lesser” or under-the-radar vintages, such as 1986 (often over-shadowed by 1985), proving that the combination of vigneron and vineyard is often more important than vintage, while some wines were unrivalled in their balance and “completeness,” (like the 1982 and 1976) highlighting that some vintages are crowned “great” vintages for a reason! This was a once-in-a-lifetime tasting I will never forget.

And then there are the wines that are memorable not because they are old, rare or from a special vintage, but are memorable simply because they are delicious. I’ve lost count of the number of times I enjoyed the 2023 “Eollithe” from Château de Fosse-Sèche this year. It became my unofficial “welcome home” wine that Alexandre and I would order at Brasserie de la Gare in Angers (fab restaurant, by the way!) after arriving to the Loire from Paris by train. I also had the pleasure of visiting with Guillaume at the domaine in June, where I came to appreciate on a whole new level the domaine’s unique terroir and their 360-degree approach to the “ecosystem” of the domaine from vineyard through to bottle. I also presented this wine at the masterclass I gave at La Paulée d’Anjou as an example from the unique Jurassic limestone soils of central Saumur. And as such, part of my enjoyment of this wine stems from the nerd that I am and appreciating how Cabernet Franc just “feels” different coming from the silex de Brossay soils. So, part intellectual, part emotional, but all pleasure in this expression of Cabernet Franc.

From Around the World

This year I discovered a most memorable and beautifully-made Cabernet Franc from perhaps one of the most unlikely places for the grape - Greece. While on a work trip to visit producers in our portfolio back in January, the second last night of the trip, the only night I had solo, I happened to stumble into the Heteroclito wine bar in Athens. And after 5 days without a single Cabernet Franc in sight, as if fate had intervened, there were not one but two Greek Cabernet Francs (both called “Tsapournakos”) on their wine list, a rosé by the glass and a library release red by the bottle, both from Ktima Voyatzi in the Velvento region in Northern Greece. While sipping on the 2023 Tsapournakos Rosé, I learned that “Tsapournakos” is the local name given to a once-unidentified red grape discovered in Kozani region of (Greek) Macedonia, which was preserved, nurtured and promoted by Dr. Yannis Voyatzis of Ktima Voyatzi. Later, thanks to DNA analysis, it was eventually discovered that Tsapournakos was, in fact, Cabernet Franc. As you can probably guess, as someone who has devoted her career learning about Cabernet Franc, I was excited as a kid on Christmas morning to have serendipitously discovered this wine and its story that night. And perhaps it goes without saying, but I bought a bottle of their rosé and the library release, the 2007 Tsapournakos, at the wine bar that night. And then the next day, I proceeded to go on an hour and a half pilgrimage to the suburbs of Athens to buy a bottle of their 2020 Tsapournakos to take home as well. Poured blind for a few Cabernet Franc enthusiasts back on Canadian soil, the 2007 Tsapournakos from Ktima Voyatzi not only did not disappoint, it exceeded my expectations. Crafted in a classic Bordeaux-inspired manner and perfectly matured, this was a pure, honest, thoughtfully-made expression of Cabernet Franc with lots of herbal and spice layers, fine, polished tannins, and beautifully balanced and integrated use of oak. So impressive.

My trip to South Africa earlier in December left a lasting impression, and I look forward to sharing all of my highlights and insights in a proper report in early 2026, but a recap of my 2025 wouldn’t be complete if I didn’t mention some memorable wines here. Firstly, from Raats Family Wines, their 2023 Vlag Vineyard Selection Cabernet Franc. This wine is one of the newest wines in the family’s Cabernet Franc range which is from select parcels in Polkadraai Hills representing the pinnacle of their work with the variety. I tasted and re-tasted this wine a few times throughout my week in South Africa, and now nearly a month later, I still can’t get it out of my head. I loved it for its gorgeous floral, red-fruited character, precision, polish and length.

While in South Africa, I tasted with a number of the country’s leading Cabernet Franc “specialists,” but it isn’t everyday you have the opportunity to explore a winemaker’s career retrospective with a single variety. It was a Cabernet Franc from Bourgueil’s Domaine de la Chevalerie that inspired Lukas Van Loggerenberg to start his winemaking journey, and in 2016 he launched his namesake winery, which was anchored by his appropriately-named “Breton” Cabernet Franc. Seated at Lukas’s dining room table, we tasted every vintage of his Breton, 2016 to 2024, and while doing so he chronicled how his style has evolved over the years with changes in vineyard sources, winemaking constraints and his winery’s success at home and abroad, while remaining true to his mission to make low-intervention, site-expressive wines. Lukas is a rising star winemaking talent in South Africa, and with wines like these, it is easy to see why. (Notes to follow in my upcoming report.)

Finally, in the category of memorable=delicious, a wine I have written about on a few occasions this year, the 2022 Elevation Cabernet from Vineland Estates Winery in the Niagara Peninsula in Ontario, Canada. I recommended it as part of a post on Ontario Cabernet Francs back in April, and again in October, and I also included it in my recommendations as part of a recent l-express.ca article written by podcaster Pierre Ferland. All of this is to say that this wine is, quite simply, a really yummy, pleasurable Cabernet Franc. And wine should be, above all else, about pleasure.

A Celebration of the Versatility of Cabernet Franc

One of the “pillars,” if you will, that I launched Cab Franc Chronicles on in 2020 was to highlight and celebrate how wonderfully versatile this grape is. While the vast majority of the wines made from Cabernet Franc are red, I would argue that there isn’t another red vinifera variety out there that has a range quite like Cabernet Franc - not the least of which are rosés, in dry, off-dry and sparkling form, but also blanc de noir styles in still and sparkling, red sparkling wines, and, as a proud Canadian I would be remiss if I didn’t also mention Icewine. This year I had the pleasure of tasting an unprecedented array of expressions from regions around the globe that seek to showcase the beauty and complexity of Cabernet Franc in a more creative way.

Some of the wines that really resonated with me this past year include the blanc de noir expressions from Fabien Duveau in Saumur-Champigny, his 2023 “Humelay” Blanc de Cabernet, from Long Island, Bedell Cellars’s 2024 White Cabernet Franc made by winemaker Marin Brennan, and from Stellenbosch, the 2025 Cabernet Franc Blanc de Noir from Rainbow’s End. In rosé form, I fell in love with the Crémant de Loire Rosé from the family estate Domaine du Clos de Lassay in Anjou, and also from Long Island, Macari Vineyards’s 2024 “Horses” Cabernet Franc Pet-Nat.

If there was doubt that Cabernet Franc rosé could age, my tastings this year defied that narrative. When made well, Cabernet Franc rosé can age just as well as a white wine, and also develop complexity over time. Some standout bottles I tasted this year included the 2014 Chinon Rosé from Olga Raffault, the 1989 Cabernet d’Anjou from Saumur-Champigny’s René-Noël Legrand, and possibly the rarest of them all, a 1947 Bourgueil Rosé that was part of the flight that concluded my aforementioned tasting with Christophe and Sandrine Deschamps of Domaine du Chêne Arrault.

Finally, and perhaps one of the most challenging non-traditional expressions of Cabernet Franc to do well, sparkling red. This year I fell head over heels for Arnaud Lambert’s NV l’Ardoisier, which is a demi-sec traditional method sparkling that sees upwards of four years on lees and is impeccably crafted and superbly balanced. I’ve been so intrigued by this style of Cabernet Franc that I hope to explore it further in 2026.

Looking Ahead…

As the year draws to a close, I have been reflecting on the developments in my personal life, as well as experiences, accomplishments and milestones for Cab Franc Chronicles, and I am left asking myself the existential question: “What’s Next...”

For the last five years, Cab Franc Chronicles has been a side hustle, if you will. I’ve devoted nearly all of my free time - evenings, weekends, vacation time - to this passion project. And I’m proud to say, I have a lot to show for this time and effort, and I have accomplished more than I ever expected to in five years. But I also know that there is a certain aspect of this “side hustle” mindset, knowing I always had a full-time job to fall back on, that has also held me back from realizing my dream “vision” for Cab Franc Chronicles.

So, all that said, I am going to make a go of it. It’s time to “turn pro,” to use athlete-speak. Do what you love, love what you do.

So what does that mean exactly for Cab Franc Chronicles? Well, I’m not really sure yet, to be honest. And I would be lying if I didn’t say that the idea of going “all in” is somewhat terrifying. But I have ideas that I am brainstorming and have started to work on, and plans that I’m putting in place, all with the hope of “levelling-up” what you can expect from Cab Franc Chronicles in the future. And this does not mean that I am becoming a “wine critic” per se (a question I often get asked). The wine world has enough critics, and I don’t believe that is my “role” in the world of Cabernet Franc and also in the wine world as a whole given the current of things. I want to add value, lift up, and support those who are as passionate about Cabernet Franc as I am, while also hoping to maybe inspire the small cohort of “wine curious” consumers to consider choosing a bottle Cabernet Franc for their next drinking occasion.

So, as I look ahead to 2026, my hope is there is a lot more in store for Cab Franc Chronicles. More content, more recommendations, more analysis, more education, more love for this humble grape.

And, as always, thank you for reading and watching, and for your continued support and enthusiasm for what I do, this journey, this project.