So, here are some of the bottles I opened in recent weeks.

Terreno Alto, 2021 Cabernet Franc, Los Chacayes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina* (13.7% abv., SRP $44.95CAD, Ontario only): Terreno Alto is a micro estate founded in 2018 by Toronto native Myles Cook, who spent some time working in the financial services sector before embarking on a life as grape grower and winemaker. When I met Myles for the first time earlier this year, he told me that Cabernet Franc was central to his dream of making wine, and he and his father couldn’t find what they were looking for vineyard-wise in the Niagara Peninsula within their budget, so they headed to Argentina to establish their estate. They farm two acres of Cabernet Franc (and one acre of Malbec) at 1,050m above sea level in the Los Chacayes sub-zone in the Tunuyán department of the Uco Valley, and Myles makes a red and rosé from his Cabernet Franc.

The 2021 Cabernet Franc (only about 50 cases made) features a soupçon of 10% Malbec and is fermented in stainless steel and aged in second- and third-use French oak for 16 months. A fragrant, floral nose (lilac, freesia) with ripe but vibrant fruits (cassis, blackcurrant juice) and balanced herbaceous undertones (garrigue, wild thyme and oregano, eucalyptus). The nose leans slightly more herbal than the palate, which is generously fruit-forward and layered with delicate spice undertones (cardamom, green and black peppercorn, coriander seed). It shows all the benchmarks of delicious Argentinian Cabernet Franc: a plush, concentrated and well-structured palate, with ripe, velour-like tannins and refreshing acidity. Very pretty. Elegant and restrained, with plenty of drinkability. Their generous, fruit-forward but varietally expressive Cabernet Franc Rosé ($29.95CAD) is also worth seeking out. Sign up for release updates on the winery’s website.

Habit Wine Co., 2021 Cabernet Franc, Coquelicot Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley, Santa Barbara County, California, USA (12.9% abv., SRP $30USD): Grown on gravelly sandy-loam in the Los Olivos District AVA, the Coquelicot Vineyard is one of the Santa Ynez Valley's best-known sites for Cabernet Franc thanks to its Goldilocks growing conditions: not as warm during the day as Happy Canyon to the east, and not as cool as AVAs closer to the Pacific. Fermented 100% whole cluster with brief (6 to 8 months) aging in neutral French oak. The current release from the winery is 2024, so my 2021 has been in my cellar for a couple of years now, and I was pleased to see how alive and vibrant it was. Fresh, lifted, and peppery with high-toned, crunchy red fruit and well-balanced herbal and floral undertones (soft herbs, fresh shishito pepper, tarragon/anise, lily of the valley). The palate is sprightly and energetic, with juicy acidity and very soft, fine, cotton-like tannins, and also decidedly much more spice-forward with added notes of green, white and pink peppercorns, and ground ginger. Pure, spicy, lightweight but flavourful, with good mid-palate concentration. While some of that initial bright, youthful fruit has faded, I still really enjoyed this wine, and appreciated the added layers that come with age. This is a fun, juicy, approachable Cabernet Franc.

Manoir de la Tête Rouge, 2020 Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame “Tête de Lard” (13.5% abv., SRP 16.50EUR/$35USD): From a parcel on the southeast slope of the village of Le Puy-Notre-Dame, 30-year-old vines grown on shallow, silty-loam soils over craie verte (Middle Turonian tuffeau). Fermented in concrete and aged in older (10 to 15 years old) French oak barriques. The French expression “tête de lard” refers to someone who is stubborn, hard-headed, or strong-willed, and the domaine thought this name was fitting for a wine that is very expressive, but tends to have firmer, stricter tannins when young. Ripe, sun-drenched dark fruit (black cherry, blackcurrant, plum) with balanced warm-vintage herbal aromas (mint, rosemary, fresh and dried bay leaf, marjoram). The nose shows a lot of depth and concentration upfront, which is confirmed on the palate with added layers of balsamic, Niçoise olive, dusty earth, allspice, clove and juniper. Richly textured, with firm, sinewy tannins, the wine is fleshy and generous, with a long, spice-forward finish. This is a very structured, sturdy, full-bodied Cabernet Franc that likely needs a bit more time (3+ years) for those tannins to be tamed.

Domaine du Petit Bondieu (Thomas Pichet), 2023 Bourgueil “Céleste” (12.5% abv., SRP 11EUR): From one of THE domaines on the rise in Bourgueil, Thomas Pichet’s Céleste is the estate’s early-drinking expression of Cabernet Franc and consistently one of my favourites in this style from the region. From a selection of lieux-dits in the northeast end of Restigné on a plateau of sandy-flint soils, fermented and aged in cement, with 15 days maceration. Fresh, dark-fruited but more sweet-tart fruits (mulberry, wild black raspberry), savoury, with depth and a pretty foresty perfume. The nose evokes images of Scandinavia: lush evergreen forest, moss, cedar, juniper, allspice and dill. The palate mirrors the nose with an added peppery edge (roasted poblano, green and black peppercorns), with juicy, mouth-watering acidity and soft, supple, finely woven percale cotton tannins. Medium-bodied, round, with nice tension through the mid-palate, finishing dry, flavourful and refreshing. With the deeply savoury-foresty energy this wine was giving me, I wouldn’t hesitate to pair it with classically prepared Swedish meatballs, or it would also be superb with a game-forward starter like a cured duck breast carpaccio or something similar.

Therianthropy Wines, 2021 “The Negotiant” Cabernet Franc, Grimsby Hillside Vineyard, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (12.5% abv., SRP $33CAD): Therianthropy is a boutique, low-intervention winery founded by David Eiberg and his wife, Anastasia Phillips, in 2018. Cabernet Franc has been an important part of their portfolio since day one, and The Negotiant is their flagship bottling and is always sourced from a single-vineyard site. It has been about a year and a half since I tasted the 2021, and I was really pleased to see how this wine is starting to settle into a groove. When I last tasted it, it was a little reductive and closed on opening, but now it is singing right out of the bottle. Lifted, perfumed, very floral (violets, rose, lilac) and loaded with bright red fruits (cran-blueberry juice, pomegranate) and soft earth/herbal notes (fir, mint, basil). The palate is true to the nose with added spice (white and black pepper), cleansing acidity and soft, velvety tannins that finish with a slight chalky tug. Medium-bodied and finely structured, with a long, savoury, minty finish. 2021 was a cool, wet vintage in Ontario, which required a deft hand and a sensitivity to the vintage conditions to get Cabernet Franc right. David nailed it. A Loire doppelgänger from my own backyard.

Domaine Sandrine et Fabrice Gasnier, 2019 Chinon “Pierres Chaudes” (12.5% abv., SRP 14EUR/$22USD): This is a special bottling from the estate that is available in select market; I bought this bottle at the SAQ in Québec probably over four years ago now. The term “pierres chaudes” means “warm/hot stones” and references this early-ripening, mid-slope site with stony, clayey-flint topsoil over limestone. The wine is fermented and aged in concrete. This 2019 is in an exquisite place at the moment. Fresh but ripe, the nose beautifully balances fruit, herbal/florals and spice: dark fruit (black raspberry, cassis, wild blueberry compote) meets a heady, floral perfume (lavender and lilac), twiggy herbs (rosemary, bay leaf, mint stem) and alluring spice (cardamom, black pepper). The palate is concentrated, full and gourmand, with finely woven, silky tannins and vibrant, salivating acidity that gives length and drinkability. What really makes this wine stand out is its refinement, which I suspect is a combination of thoughtful winemaking, superb terroir and time in the bottle. While I haven’t tried other vintages of this cuvée, I wouldn’t hesitate to pick it up if I saw it out in the wild.

Catena Zapata, 2018 “San Carlos” Cabernet Franc, San Carlos, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina (13.5% abv., SRP $22USD): I bought this wine in early 2021, and it was the very first Argentinian Cabernet Franc that I featured when Cab Franc Chronicles was in its infancy. I haven’t had much experience with “older” Argentinian Cabernet Franc, so I am glad I tucked this away for more than five years to see how it might evolve. Suffice it to say I was quite pleased with how this wine is showing at the moment. The nose leans more fruit-driven than earthy with plenty of ripeness and richness, but with a delicate vein of warm-climate green undertones — dried bay leaf, dried basil, oregano, hoja santa — aromas I’ve come to love in Cabernet Francs from this part of the world. Not overtly peppery or spicy. The oak has integrated nicely, and tertiary layers of Mexican hot chocolate, tobacco and ash have developed over time. Soft but refreshing acidity, coupled with smooth, supple, perfectly managed tannins, makes for a generous, complete, polished Cabernet Franc in a rather classic “international” style. For a ~$20 bottle, it has held up well and shows no signs of fading. This 2018 does feel a little riper — not in alcohol, but a lower concentration of pyrazines — than some more recent vintages I’ve had of this cuvée. While there could be vintage nuances at play, based on my tastings of Argentinian Cabernet Franc, I would say this is an evolution of the style of this bottling towards a more confident, characterful expression of the variety, rather than a wine trying to be a “generic” red alternative to Malbec.

Thank you, as always, for reading — your time and attention mean the world to me. I have a lot that I’m working on for October, including a new 5 Minutes with… interview featuring Domaine des Roches Neuves, details on the in-depth lieux-dits project underway in the Chinon appellation, my Loire Vintage Guide, and much more. Be sure to subscribe to get notified when a new article is published. Thank you for being here and for all your continued support.

*Sample provided by the winery

So, going forward, I will publish a drinking guide/wish list every other month (at least to start) — a collection of wines I would love to be drinking in that moment if I had access to the vast array of Cabernet Francs that exist in the world. Some of these wines may not be widely available because they’re produced in small quantities, or are back vintages, or have limited distribution, but if their story and purpose are true, I want them to get some visibility. Most of the wines I plan to profile will be available in some way, shape, or form (which is why I won’t mention a specific vintage in some cases), but there will surely be bottles that people won’t be able to find and try (heck, I may never be able to try them again either), and I trust that readers won’t hold that against me.

Hopefully you find these collections interesting; perhaps you end up discovering a new region or producer you can bookmark to seek out, or maybe learning to appreciate a wine you already know in a different way. As always, I will do my best to add value to the conversation and provide useful insights to help you get the utmost enjoyment out of the world of Cabernet Franc. Thank you for reading.

If Cabernet Franc had a season, it would be fall.

I don’t think there is another grape/wine out there that has the ability to taste like fall smells: wet or dried autumn leaves, sous bois, freshly churned earth, woodsy notes of cedar and pine, petrichor, mushroom, herbs like sage, savoury, thyme, and rosemary, and spices like Espelette pepper, clove, nutmeg, allspice, dried ginger, and cinnamon.

Tasting notes aside, structurally as a red wine, it can deliver exactly what we need as the weather gets cooler: something with a bit more body and depth, but not too rich, heavy, or tannic, with lively acidity and pure, vibrant fruit.

When thinking about the Cabernet Francs I want to drink this time of year, I want them to satisfy my hunger and pair with all the comforting foods I crave this time of year, but I also often want them to satiate my emotional needs, delivering something as approachable and unfussy as it is soulful and contemplative.

So, with all that in mind, these are the bottles I’d love to be enjoying in the weeks ahead.

LXV, Blanc de Franc, Eckert Family Vineyard, Paso Robles, California, USA (SRP $70USD): From Cabernet Franc fanatics and husband-and-wife team Kunal and Neeta Mittal, this is a white Cabernet Franc that sees a bit of bâtonnage and oak aging giving it a little added weight, texture, and spice-driven complexity. When I tasted it back in May, I thought to myself that it is exactly the sort of Cabernet Franc in a blanc de noir style that I would reach for as the weather gets cooler. It would be excellent alongside a classic herbed roast chicken or Moroccan-inspired braised chicken legs with green olives.

Yannick Amirault, Bourgueil Rosé “Rosé d’Équinoxe” (SRP $25USD): There are rosés that call for casual, poolside sipping, and then there are “serious” rosés that instantly command more of our attention — this is the latter. Always aged in barrel on fine lees, it is lush and layered with an arresting complexity that is so different from most Cabernet Franc rosés. Summer always feels so hurried to me, and when fall arrives, the pace changes. This is when I often reach for more contemplative wines, and this is what this wine delivers — it is a Cabernet Franc rosé worth lingering over. Paired with a crispy pork cutlet accompanied by a kohlrabi, celery root, Brussels sprout slaw, I’d be in heaven. If you love rosés like Clos Cibonne, this would be right up your alley.

Finca del Mar, 2023 Cabernet Franc, W.O. Ashton, Robertson, South Africa (SRP R230): This is certainly an outlier bottle that will be impossible to find, but when I was reflecting on this “wish list” of bottles I would love to drink right now, this wine surfaced in my subconscious. Finca del Mar is the personal project of Keermont winemaker Alex Starey, who I met and tasted with last year following the Cabernet Franc masterclass I gave to the Cape Winemakers Guild. Alex’s love of Cabernet Franc really comes through in this personal expression of the variety coming from fruit from vines planted in the 1990s in the foothills of the Langeberg Mountains in the Ashton sub-region of Robertson. It’s ripe, juicy, and genuine, with that digeste quality I seek out in easy-drinking Cabernet Franc. Something about it reminded me of late summer sunsets by the lake at my family’s cottage. You can feel the season changing, but there is a part of you that is not quite ready to let go of summer.

Béatrice et Pascal Lambert, Chinon “Les Terrasses” (SRP $22USD): I genuinely believe one of the best wines to drink during the fall is a youthful, benchmark expression of Chinon from the alluvial soils. There are plenty of examples I could reach for, but the Les Terrasses from the Lambert family in Cravant-les-Côteaux is a more modern take on the archetypal example of this style. It is a wine that I’ve grown quite fond of in recent years, delivering what I expect from this style, but with enough complexity and character to satisfy someone who wants a little more. Wines like these are not only really affordable, but their unoaked, earth-forward style, with fresh fruit, and supple tannins, means they pair well with just about anything your heart desires — particularly all the hearty comfort foods we tend to crave after a summer of salads and grilling.

Warm-vintage, well-aged Bernard Baudry Chinon “Les Grézeaux” (SRP $28USD): If you are not tucking away some of your Les Grézeaux from Bernard Baudry, this is your PSA to start doing just that. Sourced from some of the estate’s oldest vines, this parcel is on alluvial soils but with an underlying clayey subsoil, and from my tastings of this wine over many vintages, this site just seems to excel in warmer years. Give it a bit of time to age and this wine morphs into something even more sublime. Luxurious but not heavy, like a silk-cashmere blend stole, it wraps you in all the good energies of fall — damp autumn leaves, wool sweater meets cedar chest, and mulling spices. If I had an endless supply of 2009 or 2005, I would be drinking this all autumn long.

Domaine des Roches Neuves Saumur-Champigny “Franc de Pied” (SRP $39USD): Of all of the cuvées parcellaires of Domaine des Roches Neuves, this is the cuvée that I want to reach for this time of year. The domaine's La Marginale and Les Mémoires tend to be sturdy and substantial, while Clos de l'Echelier and Terres Chaudes are well-defined and focused. The Franc de Pied, by contrast, warms the soul with, what I call, “refined rusticity.” From ungrafted vines on deep sandy soils, this wine captivates the senses with fall smells: crisp, cool air, balsam fir forests, fallen leaves, country road wildflowers, musky white pepper. It is soul-stirring and inspires self-reflection. It doesn’t have the polish that we often associate with Saumur-Champigny, which is why I think it represents autumn so well — a season that is defined by nature’s graceful unravelling.

Domaine de la Chevalerie Bourgueil “Bretêche” or “Busardières” (SRP $27USD): One thing that I love about Domaine de la Chevalerie is that they are deeply committed to bottle aging their wines for a period of time prior to release. Depending on the market, you can find current releases from vintages 2014 to 2018, and it's that extra bottle age that lets Cabernet Franc's tertiary, earthy complexity really come forward. Of their cuvées parcellaires, I would be reaching for either Bretêche or Busardières this time of year. Both lieux-dits are on the slopes, where the tuffeau influence brings structure and focus. Bretêche is more red-fruited, spicy, herbal, and approachable, while Busardières brings sultry depth and power. Both have a place on my fall table: perhaps a slow-roasted pork shoulder alongside the former, and duck confit with braised lentils or mushroom risotto paired with the latter.

Tűzkő Birtok, Cabernet Franc, Pannon, Hungary (SRP $16USD): From one of Hungary’s oldest wineries and bought by the Antinori family in 2000, Tűzkő Birtok is located in the eastern part of the Pannon region of southern Hungary, tucked up in the Tolna Hills. This wine has a European “feel” to it, though it is clearly not French or Italian. Riper with a bit more tannin, though not as ripe as most examples from Villány in the south, this wine still delivers an authentic Cabernet Franc character and understated profile — and I love it for that. This was available briefly in Ontario a few years ago, and if it made its way back onto the shelves, I would buy it by the case. This time of year, it is the sort of Cabernet Franc I would reach for when preparing a simple seared steak with sauce Diane and roasted potatoes. It delivers date-night, high-end refinement, but with a Tuesday-night price tag.

Gabriele Rausse, Cabernet Franc Reserve, Baer Ridge Vineyards, Virginia, USA (SRP $35USD): Around this time nearly six years ago when my life was uprooted by the pandemic, I made the over 2,400km journey by car from my then-home of Miami, Florida back home to Southern Ontario. Along the way, I made a pit stop in Virginia to visit a sommelier-friend and check out some wineries. The first Virginia Cabernet Franc I ever tried was from Gabriele Rausse, and it remains one of my favourites. I recall sitting in the crisp October air, surrounded by trees and fallen leaves, tasting a flight of wines from the winery. It was the Reserve Cabernet Franc from Baer Ridge Vineyards that resonated with me and was among the bottles I brought home — a bottle that I later featured in the early days of Cab Franc Chronicles. This wine has a bit of an old-school, classic “Old World” feel to it, and when the season changes, it makes me nostalgic to want enjoy a bottle again.

Viña La Rosa, “La Rosa” Cabernet Franc, Peumo, Cachapoal, Chile (SRP $25USD): As the weather gets cooler, I start to reach for Cabernet Francs from warmer climates like Chile, Argentina, or South Africa. Their ripeness and plush, easy-going fruit are like putting on your favourite chunky knit sweater on the first truly chilly fall day. Viña La Rosa is one of Chile’s rare Cabernet Franc specialists, farming around 53 hectares of the grape across their vineyards in Peumo. Their “La Rosa” Cabernet Franc strikes a perfect balance between the modern, ripe Chilean red that the country has become known for and something that feels decidedly fresher, restrained and more characterful. Succulent acidity, robust earth, corduroy-like tannins — this wine calls for a generous pour, a cozy blanket to snuggle under, and a good book or movie to unwind with.

Raats Family Wines, “Dolomite” Cabernet Franc, Stellenbosch, South Africa (SRP $23USD): Loire-inspired but kissed by the warm sun of the Western Cape, this is a benchmark “shoulder-season” Cabernet Franc for me. The Raats family are legendary in South Africa for Cabernet Franc, and their Dolomite expression was crafted as a nod to the Loire Valley in that it is more grape- and fruit-forward as opposed to élevage-forward. With more ripeness than your standard Chinon, Bourgueil or Saumur-Champigny, but lively acidity thanks to the constant False Bay breezes that cool things down, it has round, enveloping fruit, Mediterranean herbal notes, juicy acidity, and plush tannins. Immensely satisfying and uber drinkable with that little extra oomph you might want on a cooler day or paired with a richly flavoured, comforting, home-cooked meal.

Vineland Estates, Bo-Teek Vineyard Clone 214 Cabernet Franc, Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (SRP $35CAD): After spending my summer in the Loire Valley, I am craving Niagara Peninsula Cabernet Franc. These are the red wines I cut my teeth on when I started working in the industry and they were the reason why I fell in love with this grape nearly twenty years ago. Ontario’s Cabernet Franc champion is Vineland’s winemaker Brian Schmidt, who is also a dear friend and mentor, and whenever I come home after being away, I always “reset” with Vineland Cabernet Franc. His Bo-Teek Vineyard Clone 214 expression holds a special place in my heart. It’s fragrant, floral, soulful, comforting. If Cabernet Franc could take the form of the most reassuring, tension-lifting hug of your life, this wine delivers that for me 24/7/365.

Since being home, admittedly, I am suffering from Loire withdrawl; but I’ve also been able to get reacquainted with my cellar, start to organize myself for what features I want to write in the months ahead, and reflect on what I appreciated the most about three months of tasting and drinking Loire Valley Cabernet Franc. Now, full transparency, I drink a lot of Loire Cabernet Franc when I’m at home too, but Loire Cabernet Franc in the Loire, well, it just hits differently. So, here are a few themes that surfaced during the last three months spent Cabernet Franc’s ancestral home.

No oak? No problem.

A summer of drinking Loire Valley Cabernet Franc was a welcome reminder that this grape does not need oak to be delicious. In fact, I would argue that Cabernet Franc is often most delicious when there is no overt use of oak.

In the Loire Valley, the overwhelming majority of Cabernet Francs are made in large neutral vessels, such as stainless steel, concrete, fiberglass or large oak vats. These vessels impart no flavour, and they also help preserve the wine’s precious fruit and aromatics, which can easily become dried out or disappear when aged in oak. When Cabernet Franc’s fruit character, personality and charm are front and centre, the wines become infinitely drinkable and easy to pair with foods. Don’t get me wrong, there is a time and a place for an oak-aged Cabernet Franc, and certainly the fruit from some terroirs really benefit from extended oak aging, but when I’m in the Loire, nine times out of ten, the wine that I am reaching for has seen little to no oak during its life before bottling. (“Unoaked” Cabernet Franc isn’t made nearly to the same extent in other Cabernet Franc growing regions around the world, which baffles me. I have theories, but that is a rabbit hole — and possibly a rant — for another post!)

There’s a Cabernet Franc for That!

One might think that drinking only Cabernet Franc all of the time all summer long would get boring or be a challenge for food pairings or occasions, especially given how unseasonably warm it was. Au contraire, my friend! There are few places on earth where Cabernet Franc is capable of producing such a wide diversity of expressions than the Loire Valley.

When moments required bubbles, I enjoyed a wide array of rosé and blanc de noir sparkling — traditional or ancestral method, extra brut to brut, made by the grand maisons and artisanal producers alike. Still white Cabernet Franc is increasingly available in a wide range of styles, which I often reached for in place of other regional whites from Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc or Melon de Bourgogne. Do I even need to mention dry rosé? With the summer being as warm as it was, Cabernet Franc rosé was literally on tap and often enjoyed with handy refreezable ice cubes that keep the wine cold without diluting it.

Despite the heat, I still enjoyed a lot of red Cabernet Franc. As noted above, the majority of the region’s reds are produced in a fruit-forward, early-drinking style (without oak!) that are best enjoyed slightly chilled (14-16C), making them delicious options on a warm day. We also grilled a lot this summer, and some cuts of meat are best paired with something more firmly structured. In these instances, I would reach for Cabernet Francs from the clay-limestone terroirs of the slopes or specific vintages (see below) that deliver more structure and tannin, which are excellent accompaniments to an entrecôte of beef or grilled leg of lamb. And for a special occasion, there is no shortage of library vintages that are available from a number of domaines around the region.

What about dessert? Well, I am not really a dessert person, so at the end of a meal when I’m in the Loire, I often choose cheese accompanied by another glass of Cabernet Franc. For a light dessert where Cabernet Franc is centre stage, a classic preparation of strawberries macerated with sugar in red wine is always refreshing and delicious. And if a slightly sweet wine is how you like to end your meal, I wouldn’t hesitate to reach for a Cabernet d’Anjou or any number of demi-sec traditional method sparkling reds produced in the region, which happen to pair beautifully dark chocolate.

Millésime Matters

Over the course of the summer, I tasted and enjoyed a number of different vintages of Loire Valley Cabernet Franc — young, old, cool, warm, and everything in between. Historically, Cabernet Franc has been one of the Loire’s most vintage-sensitive grapes and wines. Up until about two decades ago, Cabernet Franc struggled to ripen in most vintages. With climate change and improvements in viticulture, thin and unripe Loire Cabernet Franc is a thing of the past, but vintage variation still exists. Most speak about vintage variation like a caveat, an apology for something we experience in the glass. I believe vintage variation is Loire Valley Cabernet Franc’s superpower.

As with any superpower, you just have to understand it and know when use it. Prefer fresh, juicy and perfumed Cabernet Franc? Reach for a 2021 or 2024. Richly textured and concentrated? Consider a 2019 or 2022. Need something plush and well-rounded? A 2020 or a 2025 might be up your alley. Craving something somewhere in between? A 2023 will likely do the trick. These are all great vintages for Loire Valley Cabernet Franc — it is simply a question of who’s enjoying the bottle and what style of red they want to drink at that moment.

My Loire Cabernet Franc Vintage Guide will be published in the coming weeks — a proper year-by-year breakdown for paid subscribers. If you'd like it in your inbox the moment it lands, you can upgrade your subscription here.

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After three months in the Loire, I am even more convinced that we are living in the golden age of Loire Valley Cabernet Franc. Across all price points, quality levels, wine styles, and vintages, there is delightfully drinkable, characterful Cabernet Franc being made all across the region. If you have not yet given these wines a fair shake — perhaps you encountered a bottle that didn’t deliver what you had hoped — let’s talk. Reply to this email, or send me a direct message, I’m here to help. Life is short, and there is no time like the present to discover the joys of Loire Valley Cabernet Franc.

That said, I did get out to Domaine Annivy in Dampierre-sur-Loire in Saumur-Champigny. The domaine was introduced to me by my dear friends Rick Fitzgerald and Marilyn MacGregor, who joined me for the visit a few weeks ago. It was purchased by Philippe Raison and Nordine Rabah in 2020, and they have since made incredible investments in both the chai as well as the newly renovated, absolutely charming troglodyte tasting room. The wines are made by Philippe, and I was delighted by what I tasted. A full profile to come, but their two Cabernet Franc sparklings (a blanc de noir and a rosé) might rank among the best I’ve come across in the region, and their reds are measured and sophisticated.

Over the last two months I’ve been tasting through a slew of samples from the syndicate of producers from St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil for a future report on the region and its wines. The St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil AOP is unique in the Loire in that it is the only single-village appellation in the region — the only village being, of course, St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil. Because all of the vineyards are within a single village, one might expect that there is a certain degree of homogeneity to the region’s wines. And while there are some common threads that link much of what I’ve tasted, I’ve been impressed by the breadth and diversity of the wines. The report will feature wines from the following producers: Yannick Amirault, Sylvain Bruneau, Mickaël Delanoue, Domaine de l’Asselière, Domaine Cognard, Domaine de la Cotelleraie, Domaine de la Noiraie, Domaine du Mortier, Antoine et François Jamet, Frédéric Mabileau, Wilfried Mabileau, Hervé Morin, and Vignoble de la Jarnotérie.

Other wines I’ve been in enjoying in recent weeks include a handful of 2021s from across the Loire Valley. I absolutely LOVE this vintage. It got a little bit of a bad rap when the wines were first released, which often happens with Cabernet Francs from cooler Loire vintages, and then, once some of the early-drinking wines from the sunny and warm 2022 vintage were released, it was as if everyone forgot that 2021 even happened. Over the last six months, I’ve found many of the 2021s starting to hit their stride, and when I’m dining out at restaurants in the region, I almost always order a 2021 if the wine list has one, regardless of producer, region or terroir.

Enjoyed at Gargamelle in Saumur, the Domaine du Bel Air 2021 Bourgueil “Les Marsaules” provided a bouquet of herbal undertones coupled with fine-boned structure and juicy acidity that was a dream paired with the best pork chop I have ever had in my life and a medley of seasonal veggies. Also from Bourgueil, the Domaine de la Chevalerie 2021 Bourgueil “Franco de Porc” is a savoury, earth-forward expression from alluvial soils, with a plush palate and easy-going, velvety tannins that made it an ideal crowd-pleaser for our table of four at Copains Comme Cochons in Saumur. From Saumur-Champigny, Arnaud Lambert’s 2021 “Montée des Roches” is the Saumur-Champigny pair to the Saumur “Tue-Loup” which I wrote about last month. The Montée des Roches brings generous foresty fruit, lively acidity and an elegant, delineated structure that offers approachability married with intellectual appeal.

I also had the pleasure of dining with Sébastien and D’Arcy de Saint-Georges, proprietors of Château du Petit Thouars in St-Germain-sur-Vienne, earlier this month. We made time to catch-up, post-vacances and pre-harvest, and we enjoyed a handful of superb Cabernet Francs from the domaine’s cellar. Sébastien opened a rare Cabernet Franc from Switzerland from Benoît Dorsaz, the 2020 Valais AOC “Quintessence” Cabernet Franc. Very Bordeaux-esque in style, it was ripe, beautifully fresh, balanced, with a spicy, earth-forward varietal character — a pleasant surprise for my first Swiss Cabernet Franc. We also enjoyed the domaine’s 2015 Touraine Rouge “Admiral,” which is showing very well at the moment. The cuvée is made from 100% press wine and can be a bit tannic when young, but since the last time I tasted it (about 2 years ago), the tannins have softened and the wine has rounded out and become beautifully harmonious. We ended the evening with the 2009 Chinon “Cuvée Danaé” from Béatrice and Pascal Lambert, which showed beautiful youthful red fruits, fine chalky tannins with a delicate undertones of rose potpourri. It was at a beautiful stage in its evolution, but I have no doubt it could age for another decade or more. 2009 was a really superb vintage for Loire Cabernet Franc.

At a recent meal at Table de MiK’L in Saumur, we enjoyed a very fresh and well-rounded Domaine de Nerleux 2018 Saumur-Champigny “Les Loups Noirs” — the domaine’s top wine. I sometimes shy away from the 2018s from the region because I find many to be too ripe and rich for what the occasion calls for, but I was extremely impressed with this wine’s poise, freshness and balance. To close out the meal, I had a glass of Léo Charruau’s 2024 Saumur-Champigny “Bay Rouge,” which was absolutely scrumptious. Light, juicy and energetic, it was the perfect palate cleanser before dessert, and it served as a reminder to put this domaine atop my “must-visit” list for when harvest concludes.

At home, we recently opened our last bottle of the 2023 “Humelay” Blanc de Cabernet Franc from Fabien Duveau in Chacé, in Saumur-Champigny. This was one of my favourite wines of 2025, and ranks among my top picks of all of the still blanc de noir expressions of the variety I have tasted since launching this project nearly six years ago. It ticks all the boxes for me.

Delicate varietal character — greenish undertones of lime cordial and micro basil with white pepper and nutmeg spice — superbly balanced lively acidity and creamy, mid-palate fruit and texture. Whenever I taste this wine, it makes me want to see more expressions of white Cabernet Franc made and on the market. Paired with steamed mussels with mirepoix and tarragon (and naturally a splash of Humelay in the pan!) and beurre persillé croutons, it really does not get much better for a light Saturday lunch!

Finally, earlier this month we attended a birthday party for one of Alex’s friends. French fêtes are always very long affairs that go well into the wee hours of the morning, and dinner always seems to end up being served at nearly midnight. This fête was no different, except dinner was accompanied by a jeroboam of 2000 Saumur-Champigny “Vieilles Vignes” of unknown provenance, and it was a wonderful reminder of why I love the Loire Valley so, so much. Our host couldn’t remember which vigneron gifted him the bottle many moons ago, but in this moment, it didn’t matter because the wine was perfect. I honestly have no specific notes on this wine, but it was beautifully matured and drinking exceptionally well. When surrounded by friends on a warm summer’s evening, it was everything you would’ve wanted and so much more. This is what wine is all about - generosity, hospitality, pleasure and joy.

Vignerons I’ve spoken to have shared some of what they’re seeing in their own parcels, but this is the first time I’ve been in the Loire this close to harvest, and naturally I wanted to see some parcels first-hand. So, with less than a week to go until harvest, over the last few days I hit the road in my little Peugeot 208 to visit a wide variety of vineyards across the major appellations in Touraine and Anjou-Saumur to get a sense of how the vintage is looking for Cabernet Franc in the Loire. My goal was to visit as many different lieux-dits and terroirs as possible to see if there are any common patterns or themes that define 2026.

Over 500km and dozens of parcels later across 17 communes in 8 appellations, what follows is a visual account of my visits, with some of my observations and insights as to what these images tell us about the 2026 vintage for Cabernet Franc in the Loire Valley.

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Southern Hemisphere

Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina: Aromatic, Vibrant, Textured

The 2025 growing season began with a spring that was milder than average leading buds to burst around the third week of September. While frost is common in many high-altitude parts of the Uco Valley, no significant frost events occurred for Cabernet Franc in the Zuccardi family's parcels in San Pablo and Gualtallary, resulting in an outlook of promising yields at the start of the growing season. Conditions in late spring remained favourable for bloom and fruit set. The peak summer conditions were warmer than average, with low rainfall — “classic Mendoza summertime” according to Martín Di Stefano, vineyard manager at Zuccardi. The region experienced a dramatic cool-down in the final weeks of the growing season, beginning in March and continuing through April. This cool-down coupled with periodic showers was particularly beneficial for the reds, creating “slow ripening conditions with a long hang-time,” according to Di Stefano. Zuccardi harvested the Cabernet Franc in Gualtallary between March 21st and 29th and from San Pablo on April 2nd and 3rd. Yields were above average and winemaker Laura Principiano describes the quality of their Cabernet Francs as “very good” with “great aromatic complexity, very good quality tannins, texture and vibrancy.”

Peumo, Cachapoal, Central Valley, Chile: Transparency and Tension

The 2025 growing season was blessed with a winter that was wetter than average, with Viña La Rosa recording 654mm of rain at their vineyards in Peumo during the season, setting up good ground reserves for the vintage ahead. The spring was warmer than average with budbreak arriving a week ahead of schedule, and these favourable conditions continued through flowering and fruit set leading to “well-formed, evenly composed clusters,” according to Gonzalo Cárcamo, head of enology at Viña La Rosa. Summer conditions in Peumo and across the Cachapoal Valley were hot, dry, and warmer than average, though winter reserves meant that Viña La Rosa didn’t need to start precision deficit irrigation until November, “allowing natural soil dynamics to drive early-season development.” The warm and dry conditions accelerated the season by about 7 to 10 days, and the estate began to pick their Cabernet Franc from its Cornellana Vineyard on March 4th, and quality was “excellent” according to Cárcamo, adding there was “no berry shrivel or heat stress symptoms visible in the fruit.” Across Chile, yields were down in 2025; however Viña La Rosa’s Cabernet Franc yields were on target for the estate at 6 tons/hectare. While still early, the Cornellana Cabernet Franc is showing great “linearity and transparency” with “a chalk-like tannin texture and a graphite-like character in the finished wine,” according to Cárcamo.

Atlántida, Canalones, Uruguay: Refined, Fresh, Approachable

The winter in the coastal sub-zone of Atlántida was mild, with adequate rainfall helping to replenish ground reserves going into the growing season. Spring was mild with intermittent rains leading to an early budbreak, followed by variable weather through flowering and fruit set, though no adverse effects from these conditions were observed in the Cabernet Franc parcel at Bracco Bosca Winery, according to Fabiana Bracco. The summertime conditions were warm, though never hot, and following véraison Bracco observed “a mix of sunshine and occasional rainfall, which slowed down sugar accumulation at times but helped preserve acidity.” The vintage concluded on a positive note with good conditions during the harvest of the estate’s Cabernet Franc. Bracco noted that the estate’s 2025 Cabernet Franc is all about “freshness and finesse,” adding the wine is “highly expressive with moderate structure, refined tannins and an elegant and approachable profile.”

Stellenbosch, Western Cape, South Africa: Structured and Cellar-Worthy

The 2025 vintage benefited from a winter that was colder and wetter than average across Stellenbosch, with both Bruwer Raats of Raats Family Wines in the Polkadraai Hills and Anton Malan of Rainbow’s End in the Banghoek Valley observing higher-than-average rainfall in the winter replenishing water reserves following a warm end to the 2024 vintage. The cooler conditions continued into the spring, delaying budbreak to mid-September for Cabernet Franc, about a week later than usual. There was gradual warming through late spring and into summer. The summer was warm and dry, with no heat spikes or heatwaves, and the nighttime temperatures were cooler than average, slowing down ripening. A cool-down in February and into early March delayed harvest for many with both Raats Family Wines and Rainbow’s End reporting to have harvested a week to 10 days later than average. The extended hang-time was welcomed, with Raats noting “excellent phenolic maturity” at the time of harvest. Malan remarked, “Since our first Cabernet Franc at Rainbow’s End in 2005 I think 2025 is the best vintage I’ve ever experienced.” Rainbow’s End’s 2025 Cabernet Francs are marked by “excellent fruit expression. Intense as well as elegant with good Cabernet Franc varietal character.” Raats noted that the estate’s 2025s show “very good concentration, supple tannins, balanced acidities, with quality similar to classic vintages like 2021, 2017 and 2015.”

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North America

Napa Valley, California, USA: Expressive and Focused

The region was blessed with a winter that was wetter than average in 2024/2025, which meant that Napa Valley’s 2025 growing season started with very good rainfall reserves after many years of drought conditions. Budbreak occurred in March without issue, and the season progressed through flowering and fruit set under ideal conditions. By June, the 2025 season began to resemble the 2023 and 2021 vintages, according to John Skupny of Lang & Reed, where the impacts of climate change are presenting “something of a half standard” with “a sustained drawing in of coastal fog into the Napa Valley in the mornings for the duration of the growing season,” creating a cooler start to the day and more moderate conditions overall. Skupny observed no temperatures in excess of 37C (100F) in the Cabernet Franc parcels at the Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard in southeastern Napa Valley, and only five days above 37C (100F) at the Ryan Vineyard in the Oak Knoll District, with temperatures averaging in the high 20s C (80s F). Lang & Reed harvested the estate’s Cabernet Franc from both sites on October 9th under ideal conditions. Skupny remarked that the estate’s 2025 Cabernet Francs have a “vibrant colour and good density” with an aromatic profile that is “expressive, floral and herbaceous” and an overall profile that is “svelte” from Sugarloaf Mountain and “nervy” from Ryan Vineyard.

Livermore Valley, California, USA: Fruit, Freshness, Benchmark

The 2025 vintage showed similarities to other recent odd-numbered vintages like 2023 and 2021, according to Steven Mirassou of Steven Kent Winery, which were marked by very low rainfall. The spring began without incident, with budbreak occurring for Cabernet Franc in mid-May, followed by favourable, moderate conditions into June and July. Conditions were warm, but never excessively hot, with only two days registered above 37C (100F) during the entire growing season. Post-véraison conditions were ideal, characterized by warm, sunny days with strong afternoon winds stopped the physiological development of the vine during the warmest part of the day, slowing down ripening and lengthening the growing season. Mirassou and his team harvested their Cabernet Franc for their Cabernet Franc Blanc on September 16th and concluded with their Ghielmetti Vineyard for reds on October 31st, nearly two weeks later than in 2024, with potential alcohols around 13.2 - 13.9% for the reds. “2023 was one of the finest vintages in the 30 years I have been making wine in Livermore for Cab Franc. 2025 is very nearly its equal,” Mirassou remarked, adding the wines show “the hallmark Livermore structure of balanced ripeness on entry, with emphasis on fruit, mid-palate grip, chalky tannins, and abundant acidity.”

Walla Walla Valley, Washington, USA: Balanced and Varietally Expressive

The 2024/2025 winter season in Walla Walla was milder than average with no extreme cold events that may have adversely affected the vines. The spring season was mild and a late March warm spell pushed the Cabernet Franc buds open at Echolands Winery about 7 to 10 days ahead of normal, but conditions remained favourable through April and May with no frost events that may have impacted yield. The warm and dry spring conditions continued with a heat spike in late-May/early June that caused shatter, lowering yields for some varieties, but owner Doug Frost noted, “Cabernet Franc’s early budding status put it ahead of most other varieties and we enjoyed very uniform set and later berry size uniformity.” Conditions through the duration of the growing season leading up to harvest were “excellent,” according to Frost with “warm days, cool nights, which lead to good fruit development” and no heat spikes. Harvest began about 2 weeks early for Cabernet Franc, picking for rosé from the Blue Mountain Vineyard on September 9th continuing with reds starting around the 18th under ideal conditions. Frost remarked that Brix accumulation often outpaces phenolic ripeness, but in 2025 “things lined up nicely” with “phenolics ripening early,” adding that their decision to pick early was “rewarded with very balanced acids, low-ish Brix, and lovely ripe flavours.” Though yields were down slightly for Cabernet Franc at the end of the season, quality looks very good — “balanced and beautiful,” according to Frost — with alcohols 13 - 13.4% hitting “the sweet spot where red and blue fruits and perfume are the core impression with accents of noble pyrazines.”

Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA: Vibrant and Composed

A warm spring meant an early start to the 2025 growing season in the northern Willamette Valley, according Bree Stock, owner and winemaker at Limited Addition Wines. Budbreak for the estate’s Cabernet Franc was in early April, which was followed by favourable conditions through flowering and fruit set into May and June. Unlike some other recent vintages, 2025 saw favourable, even conditions for the entirety of the growing season, with no heat spikes, wind events, or prolonged cold conditions, though the season was a little drier than average. These ideal conditions meant the head start the vines got at the beginning of the season was maintained and the Cabernet Franc harvest began on October 10th, about two and a half weeks earlier than average. Stock noted that yields were a little larger than average, “but ideal conditions without heat extremes ensured full flavour ripening and low levels of pyrazines.” When asked about the finished wines, Stock remarked, “exceptional on every level” with “good flavor development, ripe tannin and phenolic resolution.” The ripe tannin profile, coupled with bright but slightly softer acidities, has given Cabernet Francs that “feel incredibly drinkable, vibrant, and composed at a young age,” according to Stock.

Virginia, USA: Aromatic, Savoury, Elegant

After a cooler-than-average winter, a mild spring meant budbreak arrived across much of Virginia in early April, about 10 days ahead of schedule. The early budbreak left vines vulnerable to frost events that occurred on April 9th and 16th, though higher elevation areas (above 700ft/213m) and mature Cabernet Franc vines were largely unaffected. Wetter conditions arrived in late May and into June, which impacted flowering and fruit set, though this impact varied widely across the state. Winemaker Maya Hood Johnson of Early Mountain in Madison County noted the estate’s Quaker Run Cabernet Franc experienced a lighter fruit set, while Robbie Corpora, who manages the Cabernet Franc parcels at Ramiiisol Vineyards and his own estate, Podere Piccolo, in the Monticello AVA observed normal vine and cluster development during this early period of the season. During the critical last several weeks before harvest, conditions became much drier and warmer allowing very good fruit ripening and phenolic development during the home stretch. Cabernet Franc harvest for Ramiiisol in Monticello was between August 29th and September 3rd, while Early Mountain picked their Cabernet Franc between September 22nd and 24th1. When asked about their early impressions of the 2025 vintage for their Cabernet Francs, Corpora remarked his wines display “lighter body, with a high aromatic intensity, with red fruit that highlights the savoury herbaceous side of Cabernet Franc,” and Johnson noted their 2025 Cabernet Francs “show the quintessential Quaker Run attributes shining through, with slightly more red fruit characteristics and elegant tannins… There is an elegance to them that showcases the dynamics of the vintage perfectly.”

Long Island, New York, USA: Concentration and Character

The 2025 growing season on the North Fork of Long Island started off calmly with a mild winter and spring conditions that were on track with historical averages for rainfall and temperatures. Budbreak came at the end of April, followed by more overcast and wet conditions in May. Despite these conditions, Marin Brennan, winemaker at Bedell Cellars, noted that Cabernet Franc fared well through flowering and fruit set, which set up the vines with good crop levels going into the summer season. July, August and September were mostly warm, with cool nights and rainfall levels below 50mm per month, providing ideal conditions for fruit ripening and flavour development. Just ahead of the harvest of their Cabernet Franc, a nor’easter came through the region bringing rain and strong winds, but Brennan noted their Cabernet Franc “dried quickly afterwards, and the fruit remained clean, healthy, and of exceptional quality,” and all of their parcels were harvested for reds between the 15th and 17th of October. The 2025 vintage is looking to be “exceptional,” according to Brennan, with their reds achieving great depth and balance, noting that “what stands out most is the combination of concentration and freshness.” Brennen added that the wines “already display tremendous character and promise. I believe 2025 will be remembered as one of the standout vintages on the North Fork.”

Finger Lakes, New York, USA: Ample with Balanced Earthiness

Fortunately, the winter of 2024/2025 was kind to Finger Lakes grape growers with milder-than-average temperatures and no extreme cold events that could impact vine health. The spring began with milder temperatures through March and April, with budbreak at the end of April, a bit ahead of schedule. The spring through early June was wetter than average, which meant grape growers needed to be vigilant with sprays to guard against mildew pressure early on, though Dillon Buckley, winemaker at Hermann J. Wiemer, remarked, “It was nothing that Cabernet Franc can’t handle.” From mid-June the vintage turned around completely, with warm weather and very dry conditions that continued through July and August and into September, with some drought stress observed by véraison in early August. Buckley added, “We saw a generally slightly smaller crop across all the Cabernet Franc blocks. However, those blocks tend to be in our sites that saw better rainfall and have better water-holding capacity in the soils.” Conditions in September leading up to harvest were ideal, promoting excellent ripening during the critical final stretch of the season. Cabernet Franc harvest at Hermann J. Wiemer began in earnest on October 15th, concluding October 24th. On the heels of excellent Cabernet Franc vintages in 2020, 2022, 2023 and 2024, the 2025 vintage is showing great promise. “The wines in tank and barrel are really exciting,” remarked Buckley, adding their Cabernet Francs show “ample structure, good balance between fruit and herbaceous notes, and are carrying their ripeness well.”

Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada: Confident, Pleasurable, Humble

After a relatively mild winter by Ontario standards, the spring season began with a warmer-than-average March and April, which led to the Cabernet Franc vines at Vineland Estates’ Bo-Teek Vineyard to bud out on May 5th, a few weeks earlier than usual. The early budbreak led to many restless nights, as conditions in May were significantly cooler, though thankfully never dipping below 0C. Conditions improved through June, with July and August being warmer and drier than average. By August 12th, véraison kicked off more or less on target for Cabernet Franc, according to winemaker Brian Schmidt. Weather conditions in September can always be unpredictable, but in 2025 the final weeks leading up to harvest were ideal for late-season reds with mild, sunny days, cooler nights, and no major rain events. The team at Vineland began harvesting Cabernet Franc on October 13th, concluding on October 30th under mainly blue skies and favourable conditions. When asked about his impressions of the 2025 vintage for Cabernet Franc, Schmidt remarked that it was “aspirationally perfect,” adding that it was a vintage where “experience met craft.” The Vineland Estates Cabernet Francs are “confident and pleasurable,” according to Schmidt, displaying “delightful aromatics, mature, supple tannins, and concentration that carries the 13.5% alcohol well.” He adds that the 2025 ‘General List’2 Cabernet Franc is “the best we’ve ever made in my 35 vintages at Vineland.”

Europe

Villány, Pannon, Hungary: Definition, Freshness, Site-Expressive

The 2025 vintage for Hungary’s premier region for Cabernet Franc was more “measured and classical,” according to Susann Hanauer, of Wassmann Winery in Siklós. The winter season was mild and dry, followed by a spring that saw moderate rainfall helping to restore some groundwater reserves. Budbreak came in early April, followed by variable conditions through early spring and into May, with cooler conditions experienced during flowering, which beneficially reduced yields. The summer and peak growing season saw ideal conditions for physiological development: warm days, but no heatwaves, low but well-timed rainfall and plenty of sunshine. September conditions were ideal leading up to a mid-September harvest with warm days and cool nights marking a gradual, moderate close to the season, helping to “preserve freshness and definition,” according to Hanauer. “Elegance, clarity and balance” are what define the 2025 Cabernet Franc from Wassmann Winery with “good aromatics, fresh acidity and refined tannins.” In Villány terms, Hanauer adds, this “looks less like a blockbuster vintage and more like a harmonious, site-expressive one.”

Bolgheri, Tuscany, Italy: Elegance and Precision

The 2025 growing season in Bolgheri began a little cooler than average through late winter and into March, which delayed budbreak in some parts of the region. The spring conditions overall were favourable, with a gradual warming of temperatures into the summer season, and flowering and fruit set “took place under good conditions, without major weather disturbances” according to Nicolò Carrara, winemaker at Tenuta Argentiera, resulting in “healthy and balanced bunch development with moderate and homogeneous yields across the vineyards.” Summer conditions were favourable, with warm but not excessive temperatures, dry conditions punctuated by the odd beneficial shower, and long sunshine hours. Elia Campolmi, second generation at Le Macchiole, noted that in warm vintages like 2025, “canopy management was crucial to preserve the future quality.” Conditions remained favourable through harvest, with Le Macchiole harvesting their Cabernet Franc during the last two weeks of September. Early impressions of the 2025 Cabernet Francs from two of Bolgheri’s leading estates are very positive with Campolmi noting they achieved the “freshness and elegance that have always been the hallmark of our wines… with a solid tannic backbone and structure characteristic of the vintage.” At Argentiera, Carrara observed that their Cabernet Francs as showing “remarkable finesse and precision, with fresh aromatic profiles, refined tannins and excellent balance.”

Alta Maremma, Tuscany, Italy: Delicacy and Finesse

The winter of 2024/2025 brought mild conditions with regular rainfall that helped to boost water reserves in the soils going into the spring and summer. Spring was characterized by cooler conditions, though budbreak for the Cabernet Franc at Ampeleia was in line with their historical average, taking place at the end of March. The spring saw a gradual warming of temperatures and drier conditions, with flowering and fruit set taking place under favourable conditions. Marco Tait, winemaker at Ampeleia, remarked that while it was warm, “temperatures were not excessively high, and cool nights helped maintain vine balance.” August began with a significant hailstorm on the 3rd, which “resulted in an estimated 20% loss of clusters,” according to Tait. While August remained warm and dry, conditions became less favourable into September in the final weeks leading up to harvest with cooler temperatures and regular rainfall. Ampeleia picked their Cabernet Franc during the last 10 days of September, and Tait noted that “weather conditions during harvest allowed for the picking of healthy fruit… with sugar levels and acidity within a normal range.” Stylistically, Tait remarked that while Ampeleia’s 2025 Cabernet Francs don’t have the structure and body seen in warmer years “the wines do display notable elegance, finesse, and a refined, gentle character.”

Bordeaux, France: Finely Structured, Concentration, Ageability

One of the effects of climate change that is widely observed in regions around the world is that of extreme variation in climatic conditions from year to year. The 2025 vintage in Bordeaux couldn’t be more different from that of 2024, marked by extreme heat and drought during the summer season. The spring conditions were mild with average rainfall, which brought on an earlier-than-normal budbreak. A gradual warming through April and May brought ideal warm, sunny conditions at flowering at the end of May, though a small crop already predetermined for much of the region due to the less-than-favourable conditions during inflorescence in 2024.

June brought with it complicated conditions of higher rainfalls earlier in the month followed by extreme heat, peaking between June 17th and June 22nd, which prompted mildew concerns. David Stannard, based in Cardan (Entre-Deux-Mers) at Paradise Rescued, remarked, “In 2025, it was still a tough year from the point of view of mildew again — probably not as impactful as 2023 or ‘24, but still pretty serious.” Vigilant vineyard and canopy management was necessary to protect against mildew pressure, but also protect clusters from excessive heat and sunshine. Louis Gadais, technical director at Château Jean Faure, noted that “Cabernet Franc showed particular vigour this year, leading the way in terms of vegetative growth. Vineyard management prioritized vertical canopy positioning and limited trimming, thereby fostering shade and protecting the berries from excessive light and heat.”

The persistent warm temperatures and dry conditions continued through July and into August, including a further heatwave in early August, when temperatures exceeded 30C for several days. A peak of 41.3C was recorded at Château Jean Faure on August 11th, breaking the record set in 2022. Conditions remained dry until late August, with some generous rain experienced on the 20th and 30th, providing the right amount of refreshment and beneficial dilution. Harvest was early and condensed across much of Bordeaux. At Jean Faure, they harvested their Cabernet Franc between September 15th and 18th under ideal conditions, and Paradise Rescued harvested their Cabernet Franc on September 20th.

Yields were very low, as anticipated, though quality was high with Jean Faure’s Gadais noting the fruit “yielded juice of great aromatic purity and excellent balance, combined with impressive concentration.” Stannard described his Cabernet Franc as “rich and full-bodied still with a fruit-forward freshness. You can still pick that natural balance that comes with a Cabernet Franc between acidity and fruit.” At Jean Faure, their Cabernet Franc displays “remarkable balance” with a final alcohol of 13.5% and “lovely freshness, a fine tannic structure, and distinct aging potential.”

Loire Valley, France: Fresh, Generous, Harmonious

After a very wet 2024 vintage, the winter of 2024/2025 also saw more precipitation than average, though it was slightly cooler than most winters. Early spring was cool and wet, thus delaying budbreak — never a bad thing as spring weather has proven to be quite unpredictable in recent years. Following budbreak in early April, conditions were ideal through May during flowering and fruit set, though the vintage was predestined to have lower yields because of widespread low inflorescence due to the persistent cool and wet conditions during June and July 2024.

By late May and into early June, summer was in full swing with warmer-than-average temperatures and lower rainfall. An early-summer heatwave experienced in the third week of June saw temperatures climb above 40C for a few days, eventually returning to more “normal” temperatures though still warmer than the historical average.

July and August remained warm and dry, prompting concerns of drought stress in some vineyards, though thanks to the plentiful groundwater reserves, very few vignerons remarked as observing any drought stress in their parcels. Véraison kicked off in late July, and the first three weeks of August remained very warm and dry, though overnight temperatures were cool, helping to slow down ripening. Rainfall during the summertime was lower than average, but some well-timed showers in July followed by a generous rainfall on August 29th gave the vines exactly the right amount of moisture to reach excellent phenolic maturity leading up to harvest.

A few early September showers prompted vignerons to be extremely vigilant with harvest dates as the showers served to concentrate sugars while diluting acidity depending on the parcels. Many vignerons began harvesting their Cabernet Franc for reds between September 15th to 17th, concluding by about the 25th of September, and conditions during harvest were idyllic — a fitting close to what had been a near-flawless growing season.

The 2025 vintage for Cabernet Franc in the Loire Valley is marked by lower-than-average yields as a result of the low inflorescence in 2024 and the dry conditions during the summer that resulted in smaller berries and low bunch weights. Yields were down 20-25%, with yields ranging from 25 to 40 hl/ha. Despite low yields, quality was excellent and very homogeneous. Alcohols were moderate, ranging from 12.5% to 13.5%, with softer acidities, moderate pH levels, ripe tannins and very good concentration.

Chinon: The 2025 vintage across Chinon looks to be very homogeneous, with very good to excellent quality from vineyards on the alluvial terrace and the slopes. In contrast to 2022, another warm and dry vintage, vignerons noted less drought stress on the sandy-gravelly soils in 2025. “I believe it is an excellent vintage, though one defined by elegance and finesse rather than power,” remarked Matthieu Baudry of Domaine Bernard Baudry in Cravant-les-Côteaux, adding “in a dry vintage like this, maintaining the vitality of the foliage was crucial — something we achieved through regular vineyard maintenance and soil cultivation.” When asked about his impressions of the wines in June 2026, Baudry remarked, “I am struck by the balance between sugar and acidity; they seem to complement each other perfectly, set against a backdrop of generous fruit.”

Bourgueil/St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil: While it would seem counterintuitive to have significant rainfall in the last two weeks before harvest (60mm observed at Domaine Yannick Amirault), Benoît Amirault remarked that this rainfall “shaped significantly the vintage’s profile — shifting it from what promised to be extreme to something balanced.” The wines themselves show “silky, harmonious texture with no heaviness or sense of excessive ripeness… with varietal notes that are relatively pronounced for an early, sun-drenched vintage.” Amirault also noted great consistency across terroirs on the slopes as well as the alluvial terrace — a common theme across the region.

Saumur-Champigny/Saumur: While Chinon, Bourgueil and St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil have large swaths of alluvial terroirs, Saumur-Champigny and large parts of the greater Saumur region are dominated by clay-limestone terroirs that are prized for the moisture-retention capacity, which is particularly beneficial in vintages like 2025. While the initial quality is excellent, some vignerons have noted that a longer, more patient élevage will be necessary for the wines from these terroirs to show their true colours. “Wines from clay soils exhibit very firm tannins on the finish — a characteristic that must be tamed during aging,” noted Arnaud Lambert, of Domaine Arnaud Lambert, adding “I believe this 2025 vintage will be highly concentrated and quite powerful, yet it retains that underlying limestone structure that lengthens the palate. It is certainly a wine built for aging.”

Anjou: In western Anjou, where the schist terroirs take over from the limestone soils of Saumur and Touraine, vintages like 2025, while exceptional, present their own complications due to the drought stress that can be amplified on these types of soils. Quentin Cailleau of Domaine Sauveroy noted that the “lack of water severely limited berry expansion, resulting in particularly small berries. Yields were around 25 hl/ha in 2025.” Despite the low yields, and while it is still early, Cailleau observed, “the potential looks very promising… The wines currently display a rich, sun-kissed profile, with impressive depth and aromas of ripe fruit. Despite this ripeness, they retain a certain freshness thanks to being harvested at the optimal time. The result is a set of intense, deep wines with excellent substance.”

A note from my own tastings: During tastings of some tank samples earlier in the year as well as several finished “early-drinking” wines that are already being sold in the market, I am in love with what I’ve tasted from the 2025 vintage thus far. Many of the wines I’ve tried display generous and plush fruit that doesn’t feel overripe or heavy, with softer aromatics at this stage, though still exhibiting the pyrazines that I’ve come to note in warmer, drier vintages (bay leaf, garrigue, mint). Acidities are soft but fresh, and the tannins are quite stunning — remarkably fine, velour-like with density and ripeness. While I think there are those who will find the wines from 20243 a little challenging and not to their palate, there is an undeniable likability to the 2025 Cabernet Francs from the Loire that will delight both those who’ve been drinking the wines from the region for ages and those who discover the wines for the first time.

Closing Thoughts

While it is impossible to make a blanket statement to describe the 2025 vintage the world over for Cabernet Franc, I believe there much to look forward from the quality-minded, passionate Cabernet Franc producers mentioned here and beyond. Vintage is one of countless things that tell the story of a bottle of wine, but it is a moment in time that helps us appreciate what we taste in the glass and pause to reflect on the year that was in our own lives. Every vintage has something to give, something to teach us.

My deepest heartfelt thanks to all the producers who contributed their insights for this report. I hope readers find their experiences as interesting and meaningful as I do.

Thank you for reading and for your support. This report was a labour of love that took a lot of time and effort to compile. Your feedback is welcomed and encouraged. Comment below, send me a message, or email me your thoughts.

The extreme heat and drought stopped the physiological development of the vines for a period of time, blocking véraison from kicking off, which has only just started in recent days in most communes and appellations. All of the early progress observed at the beginning of June has since evaporated and the vintage now is looking more on track with 2025, with harvest for reds likely beginning mid-September, though there is still a long way to go before that is certain. Vignerons are desperately praying for a bit of rain just to give the vines a bit of relief. While July 2025 saw periodic showers, the lack of rain in the last two months means that the berry size in most parcels is very small, so yields will likely be lower than the already low yields experienced in 2025.

Looking ahead, the forecast seems to change every few hours, but it appears the warm and dry conditions should continue to persist into early August at least, with no rain the forecast, though temperatures looking more “normal” for summer. A good summer for beachgoers, less so for farmers.

Now, with the month’s weather report out of the way, let’s get into some of my tasting highlights from this past month. And suffice it to say, I’ve been staying well-hydrated!

When I’m in the Loire for an extended period of time, I don’t usually have a set plan as to the vignerons I intend to visit. It is often that I’ve tasted a particular wine in passing which prompts me to want to visit a domaine, or in some cases, it is the vigneron(ne) that reaches out to invite me to the domaine. Either way, these domaine’s will receive a feature article at some point in the coming months, so this serves as a little preview.

Anjou-Saumur

Calvez-Bobinet (Saumur-Champigny): Despite seeing these wines seemingly everywhere in the market, I had not yet paid a visit to Dampierre-sur-Loire’s Calvez-Bobinet. Admittedly, the day I was at the domaine was to actually catch-up with up-and-coming garagiste vigneron Pascal Carole, but it turned into an informal introduction to the wines of Émeline Calvez and Sébastien Bobinet. I didn’t have my tablet with me to record notes, so a follow-up visit will come in August before harvest gets underway.

Château du Bourg Joly (Anjou): Technically located in Anjou, this estate is actually a stone’s throw from Le Puy-Notre-Dame with a terroir that is more similar with that of Saumur than what we typically think of when we think of Anjou. The proprietors are Uzbekistan-native Inessa Grouvel Varchavskaia and her husband Menno Grouvel, both retired geologists whose passion for geology, ecology and wine brought them to the Loire. Vigneronne Inessa farms a 0.7-ha parcel of Cabernet Franc vines planted on a butte of Cenomanian marl from which she makes a rosé and two reds, all three of which have a beautiful through-line of perfume and texture.

Domaine de l’Ours Bleu (Saumur/Saumur-Champigny): I visited this domaine last summer, but the Directeur d’Exploitation Jérôme Baillargeau was on holiday, so I was eager to get back to this estate to revisit some of the wines with a bit more technical detail. With parcels in Montsoreau, Fontevraud, and St-Cyr-en-Bourg, the estate is focusing on single-vineyard wines that see long élevage in bottle (3 to 4 years) before release, a decision that reflects owner Julien Contant’s love of older Cabernet Franc. Each of the single vineyard expressions feels very true to the place with impressive purity, depth and concentration. Their blanc de noir is also another gem in this style I’ve come across from the Loire.

Domaine des Sables Verts (Saumur-Champigny): I first visited Domaine des Sables Verts in October 2024, and have had the pleasure of enjoying the wines of this estate both here in the Loire and at home. Young proprietors Caroline Meurée et Hervé Malinge are working carefully and intentionally across their 10 hectares to craft beautiful range of Cabernet Francs. I was very impressed by their range from the challenging 2024 vintage, which are expressive and richly aromatic. A rising star domaine in Saumur-Champigny.

Touraine

Domaine Béatrice et Pascal Lambert (Chinon): I first visited this domaine in May of 2022, and while I’ve tasted the wines since then at annual trade salons, it is a crime that I haven’t been back to visit the domaine in four years. I had a terrific tasting with Commercial Director Éric Taunay focusing on their cuvées parcellaires, which are essential tasting for anyone interested in exploring the various soil expressions from across the Chinon appellation. I find the wines to be beautifully transparent of their terroirs and highlight the diversity and potential of the Chinon appellation.

Domaine Beauséjour (Chinon): Situated in Panzoult, this jewel of a domaine was purchased by Domaine Bélargus’s Ivan Massonnat in 2022. When I first visited in the spring of 2024, there was still much to be decided about the direction of the domaine and how their inaugural 2023 vintage was going to be blended, bottled and presented to the market. But one thing was certain, Ivan’s vision was lofty and long term. On my recent visit, I was excited to see the direction the domaine has gone in, deciding on a range of five wines from across their 20 hectares of vines, four of which are slated for release in early 2027, with the estate’s flagship, the Cuvée Beauséjour, to be released in 2028. If Ivan’s work at Belargus is an indication, there is lots to look forward to here.

Domaines Baudry-Dutour (Chinon/Bourgueil): With six domaines under the Baudry-Dutour umbrella and a strong distribution presence in France and abroad, I have been meaning to pay this estate a visit for quite sometime. Jean-Martin Dutour, former president of the Syndicate of the Vignerons of Chinon, is a fount of knowledge, particular on the business side of making and selling Loire Valley Cabernet Franc, so it was a pleasure to spend some time with him going through the wines and “talk shop” so to speak about the state of the industry. The back vintages of Château de la Grille we tasted were a cherry on top of the sundae!

Teyras de Grandval (Chinon): I have long been a fan of the wines of Domaine des Closiers since my first tasting with proprietor Anatole de la Brosse in February 2023. When I learned that he was doubling-down on his investment in the world of Loire Valley Cabernet Franc with the purchase of Domaine Jaulin Plaisantin in Cravant-les-Côteaux, I could barely contain my excitement. The new domaine, Teyras de Grandval, features 12 hectares of organically farmed vines and a newly constructed chai, which was finished completion in spring of 2026. The wines feature the same degree of rigour and precision as Anatole’s range from Saumur-Champigny, with an undeniable Chinon signature.

Famille Cognard Vignerons (St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil/Bourgueil): I’ve tasted the wines from this domaine before at the annual trade salons and at the Maison des Vins de Bourgueil, but had not had the opportunity to visit. I’m delighted to have finally made the effort because there is so much to love about the wines that Estelle and her team are crafting. And as a lover of older Loire Cabernet Franc, I was thrilled to see that the estate makes available to purchase wide selection of library wines from select vintages dating back to the 1970s making it a must-visit for anyone who may have a special occasion deserving of a magnum of 1982 St-Nicolas-de-Bourgeuil.

Finally, just days before the catastrophic wildfires began to take over the western Gironde region, I had planned a visit to Paradise Rescued, a tiny domaine in the hamlet of Cardan about 30km southeast of Bordeaux. Cabernet Franc is central to this 1-ha domaine’s identity, representing about 2/3 of the estate’s plantings. I first visited in 2023, and I think that proprietor David Stannard and his team have really started to hit their stride since their first vintage in 2010. More on David’s journey and this estate is a feature article in the coming months.

Apart from my visits with vignerons, here are some other wines I’ve enjoyed in recent weeks.

Château du Petit Thouars, 2023 Chinon “Les Georges” (13.0% abv., SRP $27.00USD/12EUR): Pure, fragrant and not shy on the classic Cabernet Franc varietal character, with plenty of dark forest berry fruits, cedar and spruce undertones with a handful of fresh thyme and dried mint. Delightfully savoury and expressive in the glass. The palate is vibrant with mouth-watering acidity with added notes of black peppercorn and graphite to complement a blackcurrant juice fruit-forward core. The velvety tannins finish firm and taut, giving this wine some good structure for those that wish to cellar it for the medium term. Fresh, balanced, deliciously spicy through the finish, this wine overdelivers on complexity and character. Probably my favourite cuvée of the estate’s range.

Domaine de la Chance, 2023 “Midi-Minuit” Pétillant Naturel (VDF, 12% abv., 18EUR): A blanc de noir of Cabernet Franc with 30 months on lees. Delightfully perfumed leading with floral undertones of white lilac and jasmine, supported by notes of white currant, white raspberry and wild strawberry. Fresh and inviting, with a delicate autolytic character of arrowroot cookie and a touch of blanched almond. The palate is lively, with a fine, creamy mousse and additional notes of candied ginger, fennel frond and a touch of acacia honey. Vinous, very pretty, layered and gastronomic, making it something I’d love to enjoy alongside a refined, sashimi-forward omakase dinner.

Arnaud Lambert, 2021 Saumur “Tue-Loup” (13.5% abv., SRP $35USD/24EUR): From a single parcel in Brézé, "Tue-Loup” in a step up from the cuvée Mazurique in the range from the estate and sees a bit of aging in older barrels. The 2021 is showing beautifully at the moment with blue and dark fruited undertones (wild blueberry, mulberry), with foresty depth, twiggy herbs, cured black olive, rose perfume and a melange of exotic spices (cardamon, star anise). The depth and demure presence on the nose carries forward on the palate with crisp, persistent acidity, linen-like tannins that weave a fine, elegant structure around a sweetly fruited, enveloping core. An understated, nuanced beauty. This is probably the cuvée from Arnaud Lambert I am least familiar with and this wine makes me want to revisit it more often.

Clotilde Legrand, 2011 Saumur-Champigny “Les Rogelins” (13.5% abv., SRP 35EUR): The top cuvée parcellaire from Clotilde Legrand is a parcel located just a few steps from the chai in Varrains and sees upwards of 4 years in oak barrels (1/3 new) followed by very long bottle aging - one of Clotilde’s non-negotiables. When I visited the domaine last summer, the 2011 vintage was her current release of this cuvée. Impressive depth of perfume, it is impossible to not be captivated by this wine’s aromatic profile. Red and dark fruits (blueberry, blackcurrant, sour cherry) that are leaning in a slightly dried space, with earthy undertones (tobacco, mint, rosemary, bay leaf), graphite, dried lavender, jasmine, star anise and black olive tapenade. The perfume carries forward on the palate, with cleansing acidity and impeccably fine, velvety tannins with plenty of concentration and plush fruit that makes the palate experience feel beautifully luxurious. Fresh and brimming with lots of life ahead of it, the wine is layered, contemplative and also deeply satisfying. Easily one of best wines I’ve tasted year to date.

Olga Raffault, 2024 Chinon Rosé (12.5% abv., SRP $22USD/10EUR): A summer isn’t complete without my Olga Raffault rosé! Sadly I missed out on the 2025, but I was able to snag the very last 6-pack of the 2024 from the domaine just a couple weeks ago. A extra year in the bottle and this wine hasn’t missed a beat. Fresh and floral with notes of Rainer cherry, white raspberry, jasmine, rosewater, cardamon and white pepper. Juicy with crisp acidity, beautifully refreshing with a hint of grapefruit pith bitterness on the finish. Elegant, classic, pure pleasure. A benchmark expression of Cabernet Franc rosé that is a joy to drink.

Domaine de la Lande, 2025 Bourgueil Rosé (12.5% abv., SRP 8EUR/bottle): When I first tasted this wine, I immediately thought that this was a wine I would love to have on tap at all times this summer. As if my prayers were answered, it turns out it was available in 5L bag-in-box from the domaine for 24EUR - my #roséallday summer is complete! Notes of delicate strawberries and cream, white peach, lilac and rose, pink peppercorn and a hint of chervil. Clean and refreshing, with soft but persistent acidity and a touch of creaminess in the mid-palate. Generous, fruity, with some balancing salinity through the finish. Perfect for apéro but equally as delicious with a seasonal veg-forward quiche, salade niçoise, tomato watermelon salad with feta, or grilled chicken. I’m already partway through my second BIB and August has only just begun!

The Estate

While the estate’s history can be traced back to 1568, its position among the ranks of St-Émilion’s top estates first came in the mid-1850s when it was mentioned alongside the likes of Château Figeac in early editions of the Féret’s guide to the wines of Bordeaux at the time. By the 1893 edition, Château Jean Faure had been elevated to premier cru status with the remark “this growth produces an exquisite wine, highly aromatic and of …

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Today, Sam Raats, Bruwer’s son, is working alongside his father with the same relentless enthusiasm for Cabernet Franc and a deep desire to make exceptional, terroir-driven wines. During my visit to South Africa in December of last year, Sam and I toured the family’s most important Cabernet Franc parcels and discussed how each vineyard shapes the wine it becomes. Afterwards, I sat down with Sam1 for a brief conversation about his love of the Polkadraai Hills, the Loire V…

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That said, I’m always curious what inspires a winery to go on the Cabernet Franc journey, particularly in a region where it isn’t the “popular” or obvious choice. So when General Manager Nancy Morrow of Willamette Valley’s Björnson Vineyard reached out to see if I’d be interested in trying their first-ever Cabernet Franc bottling, I graciously accepted.

Cabernet Franc isn’t the first grape - or likely the tenth - we thin…

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All that is to say, I’m delighted to be back in the Loire, even with the excruciatingly oppressive heatwave that persisted over 5+ days last week - the short and long terms impacts of which have yet to be fully understood. Thankfully, this week the temperatures have returned to more “normal” summertime conditions, and there was some welcomed scattered showers over the…

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The estate is comprised of four hectares of vines, and they launched with their two core reds: the La Nomade Saumur Rouge from parcels in Artannes-sur-Thouet and the Les Sybarites Saumur-Champigny from old vine parcels in Chacé, Varrains and Chaintres. They have since begun to produce two addition Cabernet Francs: their Bazaar, which is their early release, “spring” wine, if you will, that is vinifed in a combination of stainless steel and concrete, and their Alter Sybarites, which is one barrel of their Les Sybarites that sees an additional year of aging in barrel…

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So then, why Cabernet Franc?

Well, to me, you are perfect.

You are resilient. For over two thousand years, you have quietly woven your way through the world of wine, subtly rooting yourself everywhere, surviving and thriving when others have fallen out of favour.

You are adaptable, malleable, flexible. You embrace the cold and you retain your composure when things get a little hot. Whatever the season, whatever t…

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For more than 20 vintages, Benoît Amirault has been shaping the domaine's direction building on the important groundwork laid by his father, Yannick, in the 1980s and 90s. Founded in Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, the estate now spans 20 hectares across the two appellations, and Benoît brings precision and thoughtfulness to his work, and a near-obsessive focus on highlighting the fruit character in Cabernet Franc - a common thread that weaves its way through their entire range of wines.

We had some extra time to catch up on my last visit to the domaine, and what follows is a short, candid conversation about terroir,…

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In addition to the Finger Lakes report that I mentioned in last month’s Tasting Diaries, I am also finishing two other major reports including a regional report on South Africa and the 2025 Cabernet Franc Global Vintage Report. (I’ve linked the 2024 report below.)

If you have been following and reading my work for some time now, you will have noticed the lack of Bordeaux content. While Cabernet Franc plantings in Bordeaux are significant - about one third of the global plantings, a little less than the Loire - it generally plays a supporting role in blends alongside Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Merlot, and my mission has always been to highlight Cabernet Franc as the star. But the times they are a-changin’, and there are more and more single varietal Cabernet Francs being made in the region and producers that are putting an increased focus on the variety. In light of this, I currently have two features in the works: one on the 2023s from St-Émilion’s Château Jean Faure, whose Grand Vin has been Cabernet Franc-led for over 150 years and might be one of the best value St-Émilion Grand Crus out there, and also a profile on up-and-coming vigneron Hugues Laborde, whose “L’Instant H” range features three single varietal Cabernet Francs from three distinct limestone terroirs across Entre-Deux-Mers, Fronsac and St-Émilion.

From the United States, I am working on producer and regional features from another under-represented area on Cab Franc Chronicles: the Pacific Northwest. From Washington State, I am writing a feature on Walla Walla’s Echolands Winery, a project launched in 2018 by Master Sommelier and Master of Wine Doug Frost and fellow Kansas City native Brad Bergman. Doug is a big fan of Cabernet Franc, and I featured his 2019 Blue Mountain Vineyard Cabernet Franc a few years ago, and I look forward to sharing the latest updates from his project. Also from Washington State, I will be doing a feature on the Rattlesnake Hills AVA, a sub-AVA of the Yakima Valley. In recent vintages in “the Hills,” as it is known locally, Cabernet Franc appears to be emerging as a key standalone variety, so my report will highlight wines from several producers including Andrew Will, Covington Cellars, Dineen Vineyards, Pollard Per Se, Sheridan Vineyard, Two Mountain Winery and Whitman Hill Winery. And while Oregon’s claim to fame is Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc plantings are minuscule, Bree Stock MW of Limited Addition Wines is betting on its potential for the future in the Eola-Amity Hills sub-AVA of the Willamette Valley, and I will be profiling her work Cabernet Franc in an upcoming feature.

Finally, from California, I have articles coming up featuring two producers who are doing more than their fair share preaching the Cabernet Franc gospel, both regionally and globally: Paso Robles based LXV Wines and the Livermore Valley’s Steven Kent Winery. LXV Wines founders Nitta and Kunal Mittal not only produce Cabernet Franc, but they are the founders of Cab Franc Masters, an annual event that focuses on Paso Robles Cabernet Franc that takes place around Cab Franc Day (December 4th). And US-wide, there is possibly no person more passionate about Cabernet Franc than Steven Mirassou, who makes several expressions (upwards of a dozen each vintage!) at his namesake winery in Livermore, and has been instrumental in elevating Cabernet Franc as the Livermore Valley’s signature red variety and whose Cab Franc-a-Palooza annual event brings together dozens of US and international wineries for a daylong event celebrating the variety.

And for my die hard Loire Cabernet Franc fans, rest assured, there is plenty of Loire-focused profiles, interviews and reports in the hopper to look forward to, especially as I head back to the region in the coming weeks.

That’s a wrap on May. It’s been a busy one! Each of these features represents weeks of tastings, research, and conversation, and if this preview is any indication, the next few months are shaping up to be some of the most content-rich to date on Cab Franc Chronicles. And I’m genuinely excited to bring it all to you.

If you don’t want to miss any of what’s coming, a subscription is the best way to stay in the loop. And for a limited time, I’m offering an additional 15% off your first year on an annual subscription (a savings of up to 35% versus paying monthly). And, as always, thank you for reading, and for your continued enthusiasm and support.

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I would argue that the one thing that truly makes Cabernet Franc the ultimate wine to enjoy with food is the very thing that makes this grape polarizing for so many - that is, its green side. This herbal, earthy, savoury, and vegetal dimension is inherent to the grape’s DNA; it needs to be there for Cabernet Franc to be Cabernet Franc. Too often it is reduced to a conversation about methoxypyrazines rearing their ugly head when the grape is underripe, or erroneously oversimplifying it outright as green bell pepper (a topic that warrants a dedicated post!). Cabernet Franc’s green edge is far more complex and nuanced than that, and it is precisely that complexity that makes it one of the most companionable and versatile wines on the table.

In blanc de noir or white expressions of Cabernet Franc, the green side of the grape tends to be more delicate and subtle. These wines often carry wispy herbal aromatics, such as fennel frond, celery leaf, white currant, and chervil, woven with soft floral notes that suggest a springlike freshness that feels light as air. These wines belong alongside foods like freshly shucked oysters with a cucumber mignonette, young, creamy chèvre, barely dressed spring greens, or simply steamed asparagus or artichokes with a bright vinaigrette. The green edge here is never assertive, rather it does quiet yet important work on the table being a natural foil for some of Mother Nature’s verdant delicacies that are at their best when prepared simply and cleanly.

In rosé expressions of Cabernet Franc, this is perhaps where the grape’s green and earthy character is at its most playful - lifted, luminous, and lively with notes of rhubarb, lemon thyme, lime zest, basil, and lilac - and yet it never loses its footing. This is what separates a Cabernet Franc rosé from so many of its peers. Rosé, as a style, can too easily tip into caricature: all candy-bright fruit and no anchor, pretty in the glass but adrift at the table. Cabernet Franc’s inherent herbaceousness pulls it back to earth, quite literally, grounding the wine’s fruit in something savoury and real. The result is a rosé that is as comfortable as an apéritif alongside prosciutto with melon or radishes with cultured butter and sea salt as it is with a panzanella salad, an asparagus and goat cheese tart, herby steamed mussels, or a long, unhurried al fresco lunch. It bridges the gap between white and red effortlessly. There really is, as I have said before, a Cabernet Franc rosé for just about every occasion.

In cooler climates and vintages, Cabernet Franc arrives at something that feels unmistakably like home. This is the grape in its most elemental expression - pure, precise, and alive with the scents of a country garden after rain. Fresh herbs weave through the glass gracefully: thyme, rosemary, tarragon, mint, sage. Beneath them, lush foresty notes of cedar, moss, ferns and rich humus ground the wine in something restorative - the kind of earthiness that clears the head and quiets the noise. There is no pomp and circumstance here, just approachability and ease. And at the table, they behave the same way. These are wines that meet you where you’re at. They are equally happy alongside a simple roast chicken, your favourite pasta, grilled steak, a plate of charcuterie, or a slow-cooked Sunday stew. The herb-laced earthiness of the wine doesn’t demand a particular kind of cooking; it asks only that you sit down, pour a glass, and enjoy. Comforting, generous, and unfailingly good company, these expressions remind you that Cabernet Franc brings its best self when enjoyed alongside food.

Move into warmer climates and sunnier vintages, and the green side of Cabernet Franc doesn’t disappear - it transforms. The herbal spectrum gives way to something decidedly more Mediterranean in feel: bay leaf, garrigue, oregano, marjoram, green and black olive, cypress. These flavours speak to a sun-drenched hillside rather than a cool country garden, and they serve an entirely different function at the table. Here, the grape’s herbal and savoury character becomes a counterweight to richness. A warmer-climate Cabernet Franc, with its fuller body and deeper herbal undertones, is exactly what you want alongside slow-braised lamb shank, spice-rubbed pork ribs, comforting eggplant parm, or a deeply flavoured beef cheek daube. The wine’s aromatic complexity doesn’t compete with the richness of these preparations; it cuts through it and ties the whole experience together.

With time, the green side of Cabernet Franc undergoes its most remarkable transformation. The fresh herbs and earth of its youth slowly give way to something more autumnal and otherworldly: sous bois, dried autumn leaves, forest floor, desiccated violets, wild mushroom, petrichor, tobacco, cigar box. These are the tertiary aromas that only age can coax out of the wine, and it is here the argument for Cabernet Franc as the ultimate food wine comes full circle. Where the wine’s greenness was once the quality that gave pause to the skeptic, with sufficient bottle age it becomes the very thing that makes the wine extraordinary at the table. Cabernet Franc with a bit of age calls for dishes with similar depth and complexity: a wild mushroom risotto, a navarin of lamb, slow-roasted game, roasted root vegetables, dishes made with hearty grains like farro or barley. The marriage of wine and food here is earthy, layered, and deeply satisfying in a way that feels less like a pairing and more like a reunion.

Across every expression, every climate, every stage of its evolution, the thread remains the same. Cabernet Franc’s green DNA is the grape’s humble superpower. A spectrum so broad and so nuanced that it can whisper of fennel and chervil in a blanc de noir, anchor with rhubarb and lemon thyme in rosé, sing of sage and cedar in a cool-climate red, invigorate with garrigue and cypress with the warmth of the sun, and, with time, transform into something altogether more compelling and profound. At every point along that spectrum, Cabernet Franc knows its purpose. It asks for nothing, demands no particular occasion or elaborate preparation. It simply shows up at the table, looks up at you, and says: how can I help. Effortless, generous, and candid to its core, it elevates whatever you put in front of it. A food wine at its very best - the way nature intended.

It would be a few more years before I met Éric in person, at Les Vignerons Dans la Ville in Chinon in 2024, and a few more still before I finally made it to the domaine itself on a rather dreary February day earlier this year. Some things are worth the wait.

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A large part of my focus this month was on the three new articles I published here (linked down below if you missed them) and also organizing myself for a trip to the Finger Lakes, my first visit since 2023, so that I can write a report on the region’s Cabernet Francs. With the Cab Franc Forward initiative in full swing and all of its accompanying momentum, as well as the Finger Lakes region being “in my backyard,” it was high time to get back there and get a better sense of what is going on in the region from those that live it and breathe it everyday.

I’ve highlighted a few of my Finger Lakes experiences here (a little preview of what’s to come), but throughout the month I also took some time to taste a few random treasures from my cellar. So, let’s dive in!

Domaine Xavier et Agnès Amirault (Clos des Quarterons), 2017 Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil "Les Gravilices" (12.0% abv., SRP $30USD): From older vines on very gravelly soils in St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, the estate’s "Les Gravilices” bottling always has a little more structure that their “Les Quarterons” cuvée, in part thanks to a little soupçon of old-vine Cabernet Sauvignon, but it is still very much in keeping with this earthy, soft, approachable style of Cabernet Franc. Lifted and fragrant, the nose is translucent with mostly red fruits (currant, cranberry-raspberry, with a hint of black currant and black currant leaf) and layered with a heady mix of rose florals, twiggy dried herbs (thyme, rosemary, dried mint) and peppercorn medley spice. The palate is lean and savoury, with some added tertiary layers of dried cedar, cured black olive and scorched earth. Mouth-watering, zippy acidity and soft, fine, linen-like tannins, it has good flesh through the middle palate and a lingering, round finish. This is still drinking well at nearly ten years from vintage date and nothing suggests to me that this is going to start getting tired anytime soon. Decant for optimal enjoyment, and consider serving with a slow roasted lamb shoulder.

Domaine de la Noblaie, 2022 Chinon “Les Temps de Cerises” (13.5% abv., SRP $27USD): This is the “entry-level” bottling from Domaine de la Noblaie, which comes from a mix of clay-dominated parcels in Ligré on Chinon’s left bank. The clayey impact in this wine brings much more structure than we often associated with early-drinking styles from Chinon, and that, coupled with the concentration and ripeness from the vintage, means this wine could easily go toe-to-toe with vin de garde from another producer. Vibrant and high-toned, the nose is bright and energetic with a sweet-tart, snappy dark fruit core (dark cherry, black currant, and bramble) with supporting herbal and foresty notes (rosemary, cedar wood, mint) and a touch of lavender. Clean and pure, the palate adds vivid, piquant spice (Sichuan peppercorn, cinnamon stick and chilli flake). Lively acidity and densely packed, fine, chewy tannins provide excellent framing on the palate, though it does feel a little closed based on the last time I checked in on this wine. Though some of the wine’s early baby fat has melted away and the tannins requiring a bit more time to resolve, the fruit concentration and flavour depth are more than sufficient to carry it for many years to come. Medium-bodied, approachable, contemporary, wines like this continue to confirm why Domaine de la Noblaie is in the upper echelon of Chinon estates.

Domaine des Roches Neuves, 2023 Saumur-Champigny (12.5% abv., SRP $30USD): I wanted to revisit this wine earlier in the month knowing I was going to be pouring and talking about the 2024 during an upcoming seminar in the Finger Lakes. Domaine des Roches Neuves cuvée “domaine” is from a mix of parcels, often younger blocks from their most esteemed lieux-dits, and vinified all in stainless steel. Still quite fresh, the wine is immediately charming with a nose that marries red and blue fruits (wild strawberries and blueberries on a summer afternoon) with herbal undertones of mint, tarragon and chive flowers, lifted by the prettiest floral notes of peony. There is a clarity and purity here that is a signature of Thierry and Louis Germain’s superb work with Cabernet Franc. The palate carries that same effortless energy, with mouth-watering, buoyant acidity that refreshes without austerity, and soft, satiny tannins that tighten into a fine, chalky finish for just enough structure. Medium-bodied with a subtle generosity to the fruit, this is a wine that is elegant, complete and friendly. It feels like early spring in a glass - dewy, verdant, hopeful.

Durigutti, 2021 Cabernet Franc, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina (13.9% abv., SRP $20USD): From vineyards in the sub-regions of Las Compuertas and Argelo in Luján de Cuyo, and fermented in concrete and aged in fourth-use 500L French oak barrels for 6 months, this is consistently a great benchmark Argentinian Cabernet Franc - and it has held up well in the bottle! The nose and palate show classic tertiary characteristics of warm climate Cabernet Franc with a bit of age, such as notes of dried blackberries and green fig alongside dried leaves and scorched earth, and distinctive herbal aromatics of dried bay leaf and oregano complemented by Earl Grey tea, with the bergamot adding an elegant, perfumed lift. On the palate, fresh, cleansing acidity keeps things lively, while the tannins are velvety and ripe with just a touch of sinewy chew. Full-bodied and richly textured without tipping into excess, with balancing sweet spice (quatre épices and black pepper) through the mid-palate and finish, this is a well-built Cabernet Franc with character and sense of place.

I spent all last week in the Finger Lakes, and then drove out to Long Island to be a part of Lenn Thompson’s tasting panel for his upcoming report on East Coast Cabernet Franc. After eight days and 3200km in my car, I tasted more than 250 Cabernet Francs, most of which was during my visits in the Finger Lakes.

Among the highlights from the week, I was fortunate to have had some thorough “tasting trips down memory lane” with a few producers such as Dr. Konstantin Frank, Sheldrake Point, Hermann J Wiemer, Boundary Breaks, and Master Sommelier Christopher Bates’s Element Winery, all of whom generously opened some library wines so that we explore and discuss each of their journeys making Cabernet Franc in the Finger Lakes.

I also just happened to be visiting when the annual Discover Dry Rosé tasting (organized for industry professionals) was taking place in Geneva. It isn’t often I get to taste such a diverse array of Cabernet Franc rosés in one place! Highlights from this event were some new discoveries for me including the Point of the Bluff Vineyards 2025 Rosé made by former Heron Hill winemaker Jordan Harris, the Casa Larga 2025 Rosé of Cabernet Franc from their vineyards just south of Rochester, Anthony Road’s 2025 Rosé of Cabernet Franc (their Lemberger rosé was very good too!), the floral and almost blanc de noir-pale Neverstill 2025 Rosé, and a library release from McGregor Vineyard who’s been making dry Cabernet Franc rosé since 2002, and their 2020 Rosé was showing remarkably well for being nearly six years old!

In addition to all my winery visits and other tastings, I was also in the region to give an industry seminar on Cabernet Franc, which was hosted by Forge Cellars. From all levels of the Finger Lakes wine trade - grape growers, winemakers, viticulturalists, owners, marketing managers, and more - more than fifty people gathered to gain insights into what is happening in the world of Cabernet Franc, where the Finger Lakes is positioned relative to other wine growing regions, how the region can evolve and improve their work with the variety, and why the Finger Lakes is well-positioned to become a leading benchmark region for the variety in North America.

To establish a benchmark for the attendees, I presented six Loire Valley Cabernet Francs, including the Domaine du Bel Air 2024 Bourgueil “Jour du Soif,” Domaine des Roches Neuves 2024 Saumur-Champigny, Philippe Alliet 2023 Chinon, Domaine Filliatreau 2023 Saumur-Champigny “La Grande Vignolle,” Bernard Baudry 2022 Chinon “Les Grézeaux,” Domaine des Closiers 2022 Saumur-Champigny “Les Closiers.” Not only did these wines impress for their quality and deliciousness, they also served as jumping off point for thoughtful dialogue around viticultural practices, winemaking, vintage variation, varietal character and “correctness,” communications and more. The seminar was followed by an industry social where everyone was encouraged to bring a bottle of Cabernet Franc to share, which fuelled even more curiosity and conversation.

I couldn’t be more grateful to the folks at Forge for bringing this event to life. It is my hope that industry events like this around Cabernet Franc continue with some degree of regularity, because there is no better way for an industry to move the needle qualitatively than through the kind of open, inquisitive conversation that happens when passionate people gather around a common purpose (and grape!) with a shared willingness to taste critically and learn collectively.

That just about wraps it for April! In case you missed some of my recent articles, I’ve highlighted a few below. As always, thank you reading and being on this journey.

Matthieu and Domaine Bernard Baudry need little introduction for lovers of Loire Cabernet Franc. Established in the mid-1970s by Matthieu’s father Bernard, the domaine today is one of Chinon's benchmark estates, and Matthieu has been shaping its direction since his first vintage in 2001. What follows is a lightly edited conversation about the grape he knows best: what it asks of the people who grow it, how to introduce new consumers to it, and what it feels like when it's truly singing.

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