A Summer Through Rosé Coloured Glasses

No.63 | Regional Reporting

After eight glorious weeks in the Loire this summer - eight of the warmest weeks on record, I might add - you can bet I enjoyed A LOT of Cabernet Franc rosé during this time. Part research, part pleasure, I tried as many as I could. In any given summer, I don’t get a chance to taste as many examples of Cabernet Franc rosé as I’d like, not just from the Loire, but from anywhere else in the world for that matter. In my own backyard of Ontario, most rosés available are haphazard blends that change every year depending on the vintage, and the vast majority of rosés produced in the Loire are consumed locally.

I think Cabernet Franc is a superb grape for rosé, but it is certainly not an easy style to do. Picking too early with a direct press approach in mind can sometimes lead to flavours that are unripe and vegetal, and a wine that is acidic and thin. Pick at full ripeness and proceed with a saignée-style of rosé, and you can sometimes end up with something that is a little one-dimensional, and lacking in acidity and balance. In speaking with Loire vignerons about their approach with Cabernet Franc rosé, some told me it requires even more technical precision in their planning and execution than their reds to get right. And for this reason, I can see why many don’t even bother with the style. But for those that put in the time to really understand their terroirs and specific parcels, and approach their rosé in a thoughtful, serious way, the results can be oh-so pleasurable in the glass.

Many of my favourite rosés that I tried this summer aren’t available outside of France, but I think it is important to highlight them anyway. I didn’t mention prices for each of the below, as they can vary, but most are available between 8.50 and 13EUR from the domaine directly. If you find yourself in the Loire, these are all worth seeking out. And for the Cabernet Franc winemakers out there that might be reading this, should your travels take you to the Loire, these wines could serve as inspiration for your future Cabernet Franc rosés.

Bourgueil

Les Frères Gambier (Domaine des Ouches), 2024 Bourgueil Rosé: A blend of 50% direct press and 50% saignée, this was among my favourite rosés that I enjoyed this summer and a bottle I repurchased time and time again. Fleshy, with balanced, crisp acidity, pleasantly fruity with just the right amount of Cabernet Franc character (herbals like lemon thyme, basil and jasmine), it was medium-bodied with good concentration of flavours. A friendly rosé to enjoy on a terrace, but with enough structure and body to accompany a simple lunch of grilled fish or pork and seasonal veggies.

Domaine de la Chanteleuserie, 2024 Bourgueil Rosé: A combination of both the direct press and saignée approach, this is a lively, pretty rosé, with delicate berry undertones with a touch of herbs and nutmeg on the finish. Light-bodied, zesty acidity, balanced. A terrific, crowd-pleasing rosé that would be the sort of wine I’d buy a case of to serve to guests at summertime, afternoon fête.

Clos de l’Abbaye, 2024 Bourgueil Rosé: Saignée method. A classic Cabernet Franc rosé, with plush berry fruits, a touch of fennel, and soft herbal undertones (tarragon). Round, with refreshing acidity, and a lovely, savoury varietal character, this is a convivial, easy-drinking rosé. Pairs splendidly as an apéro with prosciutto and melon.

Château de Minière, 2024 Bourgueil Rosé “Ceci N’est Pas Un Rosé”: Made by the direct press method. Lean and steely, this is a savoury rosé that leads with crunchy red fruits, fresh thyme, white and pink peppercorn spice, and a touch of flint-like minerality. Textural and saline, a rosé to pair with a chilled seafood tower that’s piled high with razor clams, cockles and other tasty bivalves and assorted fruits de mer.

Yannick Amirault, 2024 Bourgueil Rosé “Rosé d’Equinoxe”: Direct press method, selected from the same parcels each year, and one of the few rosés I’ve come across from the region that is fermented in oak. Complex, concentrated with lots of character and intrigue. Stone fruits, a bit of white currant, with layers of rose, peony and sage, with balanced spice undertones from the oak éleavge. Round, yet with focus and precision, this is a structured rosé that becomes even more expressive with a bit of oxygen. Contemplative and gastronomic, consider pairing this with moules frites or whole chicken roasted with cherry tomatoes and tarragon.

Chinon

Fabrice Gasnier, 2024 Chinon Rosé “Le Rosé”: Direct press, aged in stainless steel with a few months on fine lees. Classically-styled Cabernet Franc rosé with notes of red berries, rhubarb and soft herbs, with a hint of fresh ginger kick on the finish. Plush, with lovely texture and character, zesty acidity and a hint of tannin. A cheerful rosé for any time of day.

Olga Raffault, 2024 Chinon Rosé: I have been buying this rosé for as long as I can remember. Direct press method, fermented in stainless steel. Very pretty, with crunchy red berries, herbes fines, and rose petals. Elegantly quaffable, but with plenty of character, this drinks well as an apéro and seamlessly transitions to tableside companion for a shaved zucchini and ricotta tart with basil and mint.

Bernard Baudry, 2024 Chinon Rosé “Le Rosé”: Another one of my perennial favourites, this is made from parcels on aeolian sands, direct press method, fermented in concrete. With notes of fleshy, white peach and melon, with crisp acidity and a touch of warming spice on the finish. Round, ample, flavourful, with balancing freshness. Always a winner. Pair with whatever makes you happy!

Saumur-Champigny/Saumur

Château de Parnay, 2024 Saumur Rosé “Le Blanson de Parnay”: Direct press approach. Delicately fruity and floral, light-bodied with crisp acidity and wispy wildflower notes through the finish. Clean, refreshing with the right balance of varietal character, a superb poolside sipper on a hot day.

Château de Targé, 2024 Saumur Rosé “Le Rosé de Targé”: Direct press with a small portion of rosé de saignée. Fruit-forward with vibrant acidity, with lovely notes of Rainer cherry, mint and basil, and a touch of purple flowers. Very Ligérien in style, with balanced flesh and tension, with a structured finish. Garden party ready, pairs well with an array of salads and light nibbles.

Jeanne Germain, 2024 Saumur Rosé “Cabrose”: Direct press method from parcels around Chaintres, Varrains and Saumur. Energetic and floral with layers of wild strawberry, rhubarb, lavender and jasmine. Delicately savoury through the mid-palate, with a touch of salinity and spice through the finish. Seamless, flavourful, with plenty of layers to draw you in and keep your attention.

Isabelle Suire, 2024 Saumur Rosé: Direct press method from parcels in the commune of Berrie. Bright and lively, with notes of white raspberry, peach and soft, delicate herbs like chervil and micro basil. Finely structured with a chalky, mineral finish. An elegant, sophisticated rosé that would pair nicely with hamachi crudo or tuna tartare.

Domaine du Vieux Bourg, 2023 Saumur Rosé: The domaine sources their Cabernet Franc for this rosé from the same old vine parcels in Varrains every vintage, and it is made by direct press method. Red fruit-driven, with layers of herbs, florals and a touch of spice through the finish. A textural, structured rosé but with sufficient fruit and flesh. Complex and complete. I think this would stand up nicely to grilled swordfish served with ratatouille.

A Couple Outliers…

Olga Raffault, 2014 Chinon Rosé : A dry rosé perfectly preserved and aged in the domaine’s cellars. Sylvie, Olga’s granddaughter, knows how much I adore their rosé, and when I was at the domaine in July, she offered me a bottle of their 2014 to try this rosé with a bit of age (one of a hundred or so bottles they tucked away). If you had blinded me on this wine, I would’ve never guessed it was a 10 year old rosé. Impressive freshness and life, complex but nuanced, with layers of white currant, potpourri, candied ginger and nutmeg spice. Beautiful purity, elegance and intrigue. If I had another bottle, I’d tuck it away for another 10 years just to see how it develops. Such a treat!

Domaine René-Noël Legrand, 1989 Cabernet d’Anjou : The domaine only produces this Cabernet d’Anjou style in exceptional vintages, and it is made from Cabernet Franc grapes picked a little later in the season and made in a medium-dry style. This wine proves that Cabernet Franc is one of a very few number of grapes in the world (red and white) that is capable of excellence across a wide range of styles. Beautifully layered, with a subtle sweetness that had seamlessly integrated with the wine’s acidity and structure over time. Notes of dried apricot, yellow plum, goji berry, and a hint of red pepper jelly, with delicate notes of chamomile, stem ginger, candied lime zest, jasmine and white tea. Concentrated, complex and harmonious. A gastronomic delight for anyone who loves sweet wines! We enjoyed this alongside a fresh apricot tart, and it paired beautifully. But I think this would be great with some savoury dishes as well, like an heirloom tomato, peach and goats cheese tart with fresh basil to finish, or to accompany a cheese course. This was a library release I purchased at the domaine in July for a mere 15.00EUR.

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If you have a favourite Cabernet Franc rosé, from the Loire or elsewhere, I would love your recommendations! Hit me up in the comments with your faves.