Béatrice et Pascal Lambert, 2020 Chinon ‘Chêne Vert’
Cab Franc du Jour #164
The story of the Lambert family’s domaine begins in 1987, when Béatrice and her husband Pascal purchased their first 4ha of vines in the commune of Cravant-les-Côteaux. Their son Antoine has since joined the domaine, and the estate has grown to 25 hectares. Organic farming began in 1995, with full organic certification achieved in 2005 and biodynamic certification following in 2012.
A central focus of the domaine is terroir-specific expressions of Cabernet Franc. Their parcels are spread across the communes of Cravant-les-Côteaux and Chinon, covering the three main soil groups found across the region: sandy-gravelly alluvial soils, Turonian tuffeau chalk-derived soils, and heavier clays with flint. The cuvée Chêne Vert is one of two expressions the domaine produces from the flinty-clay soils, alongside their cuvée Les Perruches.
The Chinon Commune
The lieu-dit Le Chêne Vert is located in the Chinon commune, one of the most complex in the region from a terroir standpoint. The topography undulates considerably, producing a wide range of elevations and exposures, with vineyards ranging from around 40 to 100m above sea level and facing in every direction. That span of elevation is what allows all three main soil groups to be found within a single commune.
Alluvial soils appear at the lowest elevations, though they occupy a relatively small and isolated area on the south side of the Vienne River. On the north side of the Vienne, the other two main groups take over. Turonian tuffeau chalk-influenced vineyards are typically found at elevations between 55 and 75m above sea level, dotted to the west, north, and east of the Chinon village itself. The flinty-clay soils, dating to the Senonian and Bartonian ages, occupy the highest elevations, around 80 to 100m above sea level, concentrated around the village and on the plateau above Chinon’s premier côte to the east.
Le Chêne Vert
It is on that premier côte that we find the famed lieu-dit Le Chêne Vert. The lieu-dit takes its name from an 800-year-old holm oak said to have been planted by monks from the Abbey of Bourgueil to mark this site, which was first planted to vines in the 12th century. But the terroir is considerably more complex than the name alone might suggest.
The five-hectare lieu-dit can be divided into roughly three distinct parts. A section of about two hectares sits on a full, rather steep west-facing slope, influenced by the Upper Turonian yellow tuffeau chalk; these parcels belong to Domaine Charles Joguet and form their Clos du Chêne Vert bottling. A second parcel of about one hectare, owned by Domaine Bruno Sourdais, faces southwest and sits just below the Joguet parcels, with millarges present here, the fine limestone sands derived from the yellow tuffeau chalk. Finally, a section of approximately two hectares sits directly adjacent to the east on a plateau at around 100m above sea level, where there is predominantly heavier flinty-clay soils known as cornuelles.
The Lambert Family’s Parcel
The Lambert family’s parcel at Chêne Vert covers 0.26 hectares on this upper plateau, at an average elevation of around 105m above sea level with a gentle south-facing exposure. At this elevation, the soils are the flinty-clay cornuelles: a sandy-silt topsoil with a high proportion of flint stones over a heavier clay soil mixed with flint beneath. The vines were planted in 2000. These parcels were always vinified separately, but prior to 2017 their fruit was blended into the Les Perruches cuvée. Beginning with the 2017 vintage, the family began bottling this parcel on its own to honour the character and reputation of the lieu-dit.
In the Cellar
The fruit is hand-harvested and fully destemmed. Fermentation takes place in 30hl oak vats with indigenous yeast, with a long maceration of 40 days and some gentle pigeage by foot to aid extraction. That extended maceration is complemented by a long élevage of 24 months in a combination of 500L oak barrels and amphora, split roughly 60% barrel and 40% amphora, with 50% new oak among the barrel portion, followed by two months in tank before bottling.
In the Glass
Deep, open, and fruit-forward on the nose, with a sultry dark-fruited profile very much in keeping with both the 2020 vintage and the character of this clay-flint terroir. Cassis, black raspberry, black cherry, a touch of plum, and an intriguing pâté aux fruits quality lead the way. Herbal and earthy undertones are more reserved here, notes of graphite, wet stone, a whisper of violet, but they add welcome complexity beneath the fruit.
The palate delivers that same dark, sultry fruit, now joined by bramble and more expressive herbal notes: spearmint, bay leaf, and a plush evergreen quality (spruce, fir). Spice builds nicely: allspice, clove, cardamom. Fruit, herb, and spice are well-integrated and genuinely balanced. The acidity is fresh and cleansing, arriving softly toward the finish in a manner characteristic of this terroir. Tannins are velvety but compact and dense as one would expect from heavy clay, with a lightly chewy grip at the finish. The wine carries real richness and roundness through the mid-palate, yet finishes with unexpected levity, buoyancy and finesse. Beautifully complete and balanced at 13%.
Richly textured and powerfully built, yet light on its feet. It is a compelling expression of Chinon, and perhaps a bit more unexpected for those that are more familiar with expressions of Chinon from the Turonian tuffeau chalk-derived soils. Worth seeking out!
Wine Details
Producer: Domaine Béatrice et Pascal Lambert
Appellation: Chinon
Commune: Chinon
Lieu-Dit: Le Chêne Vert
Soil: Shallow sandy-silt, over heavy clays with flint (cornuelles)
Alcohol: 13.0%