Bodega Garzón, 2021 Cabernet Franc Reserva

No.8 | What's In My Glass

I am smitten with Uruguay. While I’ve only had a few examples of Cabernet Franc from this tiny South American wine producing nation, I am very hopeful for this grape and place combination.

From a viticultural perspective, Uruguay is SO different than its South American neighbours. It is heavily influenced by the Atlantic, with a lot higher rainfall, greater humidity and cooler temperatures. The country also experiences quite a bit vintage variation - unlike Chile and Argentina with their more predictable, dry Mediterranean climates. Every time I’ve had an Uruguayan Cabernet Franc, I get this distinctly “old world,” European vibe - and I love it.

Over the weekend, I opened the 2021 Cabernet Franc Reserva from Bodega Garzón. I first tried this wine back in November when I presented it as part of a tasting event at Winkler & Samuels Wine & Spirits in Buffalo. With everything that was going on that evening, it was difficult to give this wine the time it deserved in the moment, so I was thrilled to revisit it in isolation.

Upon opening and taking my first sip, I immediately thought “Garzón gets it.” And by “it” I mean Cabernet Franc. I tasted my first Cabernet Franc from Bodegas Garzón back in the spring of 2022. It was technically 80% Cabernet Franc, 20% Tannat, but even with this soupçon of another grape variety in the blend, I could still feel that the estate knew what they were doing and I could feel Cabernet Franc’s energy shining through.

The estate’s vineyards are located about 18km from the coast in Maldonado, which is one of the easternmost wine-growing regions in Uruguay. As you move east along the Uruguayan coast, the influence of the Atlantic becomes more pronounced, so conditions are cooler and wetter. The estate intentionally plants their Cabernet Franc on deeper, weathered granite soils and on parcels with more west-facing exposures in order to give the grape the sun it needs to ripen as well as to minimize the pyrazines. In the cellar, this wine is fermented in concrete and aged in 50hL wooden casks.

In the glass, the wine is extremely inviting and open from the get-go. The aromatics are sweet-savoury, and you immediately get the sense that this is coming from somewhere a little warmer but not hot. The savoury profile leads with notes of bay leaf, oregano and rosemary, which are supported by a mix fresh raspberry and plum, and a touch of kirsch. The nose is quite fragrant, with floral tones that intermingle with the herbals. Just on the nose, you could sense that the objective was to showcase the varietal profile of Cabernet Franc and the uniqueness of the place, without being masked by overripeness or excessive wood.

The palate was exuberant, with zippy and balancing acidity, framed by fine, velvety tannins. I would describe the palate has linear and defined, but with sufficient flesh to make the wine approachable in its youth. The heady perfume of the nose was even more prominent on the palate, but it was grounded beautifully by notes of tobacco and asphalt. Overall the wine was balanced, with refined rusticity, well-structured and immensely digestible. It was equally confident yet personable, and showed a true sense of place.

If you are not familiar with Uruguayan reds beyond Tannat, this is a superb introduction to what is possible with Cabernet Franc in the right hands and on the right site. At about $20 a bottle, this wine over-delivered on quality, companionability and complexity. Having been two years since my last Bodega Garzón encounter, you can be assured that this wine will be one I will be seeking out each vintage.

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From the Archives!

If you would like to learn more about Bodega Gazón and Uruguayan Cabernet Franc, check out my video on their 2018 Cabernet Franc-Tannat: