Boundary Breaks, 2023 Cabernet Franc, Finger Lakes, New York, USA
Cab Franc du Jour #158
Boundary Breaks is the vision of Syracuse native Bruce Murray, who returned to the Finger Lakes after a long career in business with the desire to make world-class Riesling. He purchased a 120-acre farm near Lodi on the east side of Seneca Lake in 2007 and planted his first eleven acres of Riesling in 2009 and 2010. Recognizing the suitability and potential for Cabernet Franc on the property, he planted a modest two-thirds of an acre in 2013. As the years passed and the quality of the fruit became clear, both for its cold hardiness and its ability to ripen consistently across vintages to produce an elegant, cool-climate red, Bruce has steadily expanded those plantings to 14 acres as of 2024, now representing just over a quarter of their total vineyard acreage. Today, Bruce and his wife Diana Lyttle thoughtfully farm 50 acres of vines, supported by a vineyard team led by Vineyard Manager Kees Stapel, with Dave Breeden making their Cabernet Franc in the cellar since the inaugural 2017 vintage.
The Finger Lakes: Viticultural Environment and Soils
While the Finger Lakes AVA technically encompasses all eleven lakes, the majority of viticultural activity is concentrated around four: Canandaigua, Keuka, Seneca, and Cayuga, with the vineyards around Keuka and Seneca Lakes accounting for nearly 90% of the region’s vineyard acreage. Cabernet Franc plays an important role across the Finger Lakes and New York State as a whole, standing as the most planted red vinifera variety with about 236 acres (95 hectares), representing around 46% of the 638 acres (258 hectares) of Cabernet Franc planted across the state.
The success of viticulture in the Finger Lakes is attributable to the lakes themselves as well as Lake Ontario to the north. Seneca Lake, the largest and deepest of the Finger Lakes, influences the growing environment in several meaningful ways. In spring it delays budbreak and reduces frost risk. During summer its surface reflects sunshine into the surrounding vineyards, aiding photosynthesis and ripening. In fall, the heat accumulated by the lake over the growing season helps extend the season, particularly important for later-ripening varieties like Cabernet Franc. And because Seneca Lake never freezes, it continues to radiate warmth through winter, moderating temperatures and protecting vines from cold damage during extreme conditions. The climate across the region is broadly cool continental, with an average of around 190 to 205 growing degree days depending on location.
Microclimates vary significantly from vineyard to vineyard, shaped by distance from Lake Ontario and proximity and orientation to Seneca Lake. Vineyards on the west side of the lake carry east-facing exposures and receive more morning sunshine, which can help reduce disease pressure. Those on the east side face west, receiving stronger afternoon sunshine and more total sunshine hours during the growing season, which benefits ripening.
Soils across the Finger Lakes are glacially derived and vary widely in depth and texture, generally derived from the underlying limestones and shales of the bedrock with varying amounts of gravel, silt, sand, and clay, and are typically well-draining and well suited to viticulture.
The Vineyard
Today’s wine takes us to the east side of Seneca Lake near the village of Lodi, about 30km south of Geneva, roughly midway down the eastern shore. The wine is sourced from about 8.3 acres (3 hectares) of Cabernet Franc across several blocks, all situated at around 228m above sea level on a moderately steep slope with a full west-facing exposure, only about 800m from the shoreline. The combination of west-facing aspect, beneficial slope drainage and air movement, and proximity to the lake creates ideal conditions for Cabernet Franc: strong afternoon sunshine for ripening, excellent frost protection, and an extended growing season. The vines were planted between 2013 and 2022 with Clone 214. The soils are Cazenovia silt-loam, deeper in profile with a higher proportion of clay than is typical across much of the region.
In the vineyard, Bruce and his team work block by block to assess each vine’s balance in terms of yield and canopy, with earlier leaf removal around the fruiting zone to improve ventilation and sun exposure, and hedging where needed to direct the vine’s energy toward ripening. Green harvesting has rarely been necessary in the Cabernet Franc parcels.
It is worth noting that the Boundary Breaks Cabernet Franc has almost always included a small percentage of Merlot and/or Cabernet Sauvignon in the final blend. In the United States, a wine may include up to 25% of other varieties and still carry a single-varietal label. The precise percentage is something Bruce and his team continue to refine and discuss, with customer feedback informing the process. For the 2023 vintage, the final assemblage landed at 87% Cabernet Franc with 13% Merlot sourced from established grower John Wagner.
In the Cellar
The fruit is machine harvested and fermented in stainless steel with temperature control and selected yeasts, reaching a maximum fermentation temperature of around 32C. Because Boundary Breaks’ Cabernet Franc berries tend to run a little smaller than average with a higher skin-to-juice ratio, extraction is kept gentle: one pump-over per day during active fermentation, then one every other day for the remainder, with total skin contact of approximately 27 days. Following the post-fermentation maceration, the free-run and press wines are blended and aged in older, neutral oak barrels for eight months, after which the final assemblage is determined and the wine is bottled.
In the Glass
Fragrant and fruit-forward on the nose, with a sunny ripeness and distinctive varietal character that present immediately. The fruit profile leans dark and brambly (cherry, black raspberry, plum, a hint of blueberry), while the pyrazines play a supporting role with classic herbal notes of sage, mint, cedar leaf and wood. Succulent florals (violet, lilac) add charm, and a gentle spice underpinning, varietal rather than oak-derived spiciness despite some neutral barrel aging, completes a pure and inviting nose.
The palate leans earthier and more savoury, with sage and mint gaining presence alongside brambly fruit. Spice builds confidently (clove, cinnamon stick, chili flake) through the mid-palate and finish. Acidity is cleansing, lively, and mouth-watering. Structured with tannins are velvety and well-managed, with good uniformity and a lightly chewy grip on the finish. Medium-bodied, with a plush, concentrated mid-palate and a focused, precise finish. Notably, 13% Merlot is present but does nothing to compromise the Cabernet Franc identity. Drinking well now, but likely to show even better in the next 12 to 24 months as the tannins integrate further.
Approachable, friendly, convivial, yet with good structural integrity, focus and precision. A genuine, thoughtful expression of Finger Lakes Cabernet Franc, which is a superb value at around $25USD.
Wine Details
Producer: Boundary Breaks
Region: New York State, USA
Sub-Region: Finger Lakes (Seneca Lake)
Soils: Cazenovia silt-loam
Assemblage: 87% Cabernet Franc, 13% Merlot
Alcohol: 13.5%