Calalta, 2019 IGT Veneto "Onbrìa" Cabernet Franc, Veneto, Italy
Cab Franc du Jour #19
Calalta has been in the hands of the Brunetti family for three generations, and since 2017 it has been grandson Nicolas who has been running the estate. They have a total of five hectares planted, of which 0.7 hectares are Cabernet Franc, located in the commune of Mussolente in north-central Veneto, roughly 70km northwest of Venice.
If you drew a line from Valpolicella and Soave to the west through to the hills of Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco country to the east, Mussolente sits more or less right in between, in the foothills of Mount Grappa, part of the Dolomite mountain range. The vineyard sits at around 150m above sea level, and Nicolas tells me the soils are a red clay with a higher iron oxide content and some flint fragments throughout. The vines were planted in 2009, so relatively young, and they are farmed organically. A low-interventionist approach is taken in the cellar, with indigenous yeast and relatively low sulphur at bottling. This particular wine, the Ombria, was vinified and aged entirely in stainless steel.
Nicolas described 2019 as a relatively cool vintage, and the hallmarks of that are evident on the nose: lots of red fruit, cranberry, raspberry, and wild strawberry, with beautiful pyrazine character coming through as tarragon, thyme, and a delicate floral wisp. It is quite pretty and perfumed, with a light, delicate quality to the whole aromatic profile. The palate is really juicy, with snappy, bright acidity and a fresh, lively character. The tannins are relatively low and easy-going, with a slight satiny feel in the mouth and a touch of chalkiness on the finish that pulls everything together nicely.
I would strongly recommend this alongside a charcuterie board. It is a delicious introduction to northern Italian Cabernet Franc, and if anyone has recommendations for other Italian examples, please do leave them in the comments.
Wine Details
Producer: Calalta
Region: Veneto
Appellation: IGT Veneto
Commune: Mussolente
Soils: Iron oxide rich red clay with flint
Alcohol: 12%