Chinon's Domaine Dozon: Tending a Premier Cru with Patience and Purpose
No.81 | Producer Feature
My first introduction to Domaine Dozon came in the spring of 2021, when the 2018 vintage of the cuvée “Le Clos du Saut au Loup” quietly appeared on LCBO Vintages shelves. I was instantly smitten. Authentic, restrained, characterful - and most importantly, delicious. I knew nothing about the domaine, but I knew enough to go down the rabbit hole: I emailed Éric, scoured the internet for whatever fragments of information I could find, and eventually featured the wine as Cab Franc du Jour #50 in July of that year. That was very early days on my Cab Franc Chronicles journey, but I could still sense there was something special in that bottle, even though I didn’t yet have the vocabulary or experience to fully articulate why.
It would be a few more years before I met Éric in person, at Les Vignerons Dans la Ville in Chinon in 2024, and a few more still before I finally made it to the domaine itself on a rather dreary February day earlier this year. Some things are worth the wait.
The Domaine
The origins of Domaine Dozon date back to the 1950s, when Jean-Marie Dozon established the domaine with the 14 hectares of vines in the lieu-dit Le Saut au Loup that were purchased by his grandfather in the late 1930s. Jean-Marie worked alongside his father Paul for many decades before handing off the domaine to his daughter Laure Dozon in 1999. After marrying a vigneron from Bourgueil, Laure made the decision to sell the family domaine in 2013 to Chinon-native Éric Santier.
While from Chinon, Éric did not grow up in a family of vignerons, though felt deeply connected to the region’s agricultural heritage. His first career was spent working for SOPEXA as an international marketing manager for agro-food products. Feeling the call to the land, Éric made the decision to change careers in 2010, pursuing a viticulture and oenology degree in Bordeaux, followed by a two-year stint working at Domaine Bernard Baudry in Cravant-les-Côteaux, before becoming propriétaire-vigneron at Domaine Dozon in 2013.
Over the last decade, and with no concrete succession plan in place, Éric had been quietly seeking a partner who could help ensure the longevity of the domaine and bring fresh momentum to what he had built. In late 2025, Éric was introduced to a passionate wine enthusiast who had family roots near Chinon named Thibault Caillemer du Ferrage who was interested in investing in the domaine sharing both Éric's conviction in the potential of the Le Saut au Loup terroir and his vision for its future.
The Vineyards
Domaine Dozon’s Cabernet Franc vines are all planted in a single lieu-dit, Le Saut au Loup - a name that likely referenced a nearby spring (“saut” in old French meant spring) that was a source of drinking water for the wolves (“loup(s)”) and other animal life living in the nearby forests. It is worth noting that this is a highly regarded and historic lieu-dit, first being referenced in the national archives dating to 1643, and the lieu-dit appeared on the first Cassini map of France dating to 1765. From a viticultural perspective, Le Saut au Loup was classified as a “premier cru” site in the Annuaire des Marques et Appellations d’Origine des Vins, Eaux-de-Vie et Spiritueux de France in the 1940s, one of the country’s earliest modern-day reference guides for its vineyards, producers and wines.
Le Saut au Loup is located in the western part of the Ligré commune, following the eastern border of neighbouring La Roche-Clermault, and is a stone’s throw from other notable lieux-dits including Le Vau Breton, Noblaie, and Vindoux. The commune of Ligré sits on the south side, or left bank, of the Vienne River, directly opposite the eastern part of the Chinon commune. Uniquely, Ligré does not border the Vienne directly: the commune of Rivière occupies the riverbank, and Ligré is set further back to the south. As a result, none of the vineyards in Ligré sit on any of the alluvial soils found close to the river.
Even on the poorest of weather days, it is impossible not to feel a certain energy when standing among the vines in this lieu-dit. Situated on a prime, south to southeast-facing slope, the vineyard is surrounded by forest to the north, east and west, which not only gives an air of mystique and privacy, but it also serves to enhance the natural ecosystem of the vineyard and protects it from the cold northerly winds.
The undulating topography and range of elevations across northern Ligré gives us the complex underlying geology of Le Saut au Loup. Rising in elevation from around 82m above sea level at the bottom of the slope to around 100m at the top of the slope, the vineyard can be divided into roughly three main parts.
At the top of the slope and the plateau sitting just above, there is a mix of deeper soils, lighter textured silty-sands and heavier sandy-clays with flint, with the fruit from these parcels beings used for the cuvées Le Petit Chemin, Le Chemin Travers(e) and Éric’s Chinon Rosé. The heart of the lieu-dit is the 7-hectare “clos,” which is the source of the domaine’s Le Clos du Saut au Loup cuvée. The clos, which was indeed enclosed by walls centuries ago, represents the mid- to upper third of the slope with a sandy-clay topsoil with a high proportion of flint stones and pebbles throughout, which sits atop the Upper Turonian yellow tuffeau chalk bedrock. As you move down the slope, the soil becomes increasingly more influenced by the Upper Turonian yellow tuffeau chalk, with a slightly shallower, heavier clay topsoil, and these parcels are the source of the domaine’s Le Grand Saut cuvée.
Across the lieu-dit, the vines are older and well-established, ranging in age from 35 to 60 years of age. Upon Éric’s arrival in 2013, some of the vineyard parcels were already being farmed organically, so he continued this work beginning organic conversion in earnest in 2020, and as of the 2023 vintage the domaine’s vineyards and wines are certified organic.
The Wines
In the cellar, Éric crafts his reds to reflect the same thoughtful, respectful approach that he takes with his vineyard work. With a little over a decade under his belt at the domaine, he has continuously refined his work in the chai with a sensitivity that respects the potential of the vintage based on what Mother Nature brings to the fold each year. Today, his fermentations are a little cooler (22-25C versus 28C) and his approach to extractions is more gentle, with his current vintages showing beautiful purity and freshness of fruit and a bit more polish.
Éric approaches his work as the custodian of this vineyard in a measured, thoughtful manner and with a deep respect for the terroir entrusted to him. A relative newcomer to the vocation, he farms revered ground with a care and meticulousness that speaks to the weight of that responsibility. That awareness seems to sharpen rather than constrain him, and the wines that result are honest, candid, genuine. They are well-intentioned expressions of the lieu-dit Le Saut au Loup rather than exercises in winemaker ego or mastery.
At the heart of the range sits the cuvée Le Clos du Saut au Loup, the domaine’s flagship, and it is here that Éric’s vision is most fully realized. A wine that is layered and finesse-driven, with depth and real character. Accessible and unpretentious, the range as a whole carries the humble assurance of a vigneron who has learned to trust the site. These are wines that wear their Chinon heritage with pride, befitting the prestige of this “premier cru” lieu-dit.
Le Petit Chemin & Le Chemin Travers(e): Sourced from the top of the slope and plateau, these two cuvées represent the domaine’s vins de soif, or early-drinking expressions. Both are fermented in fibreglass or concrete tank depending on the vintage, vinified at cooler temperatures and have a slightly shorter cuvaison of 8 to 10 days. Le Chemin Travers(e) sees no sulphur during the fermentation and aging, just a low dose at bottling.
Le Clos du Saut au Loup: Representing a little over 50% of the volume of the domaine’s production is the cuvée Le Clos du Saut au Loup, which comes from vines contained within the 7-hectare former walled clos. As the domaine’s most “visible” cuvée in France and export markets, Éric has evolved his approach with this wine over the year’s with the desire to more purely express the terroir of this premier cru-level vineyard. From 2013 to 2018, this cuvée was aged in a combination of concrete tank and foudres, and since 2019 Éric has opted to use exclusively concrete for the aging to highlight the purity of fruit and essence of place.
Le Grand Saut: The top expression from Le Saut au Loup is Le Grand Saut, from more tuffeau-dominated parcels towards the bottom of the slope. Éric’s experience has taught him that this type of soil imparts a natural structure to the finished wine, which can benefit from oak aging to help round out and refine the otherwise firmer, more angular tannins. After a slightly longer time on skins, about 4 weeks, he opts to age the wine in older barrels (3 to 6 years old) that are mostly 225L and 228L barriques, with a few 300L barriques depending on the volume of the vintage.
Other Wines: Éric also makes a Chinon Rosé (“Le Petit Chemin” Chinon Rosé), and for some reason we neglected to taste it while I was at the domaine. I blame the rather dreary, miserably cold, wet day when I visited the domaine in February. It was just not a day to appreciate rosé! I will remedy this on a future visit to the Loire and include notes in a post down the road.
Tasting Notes: Current Vintages
“Le Petit Chemin” 2024 Chinon (12% abv., SRP 12EUR): The nose displays the delicate, perfumed side of the vintage leaning more earthy and herbal as opposed to fruity. Sprightly, small red berries mixing with notes of fresh cedar and thyme with a hint of rose, and green and white peppercorn spice and a touch of graphite through the finish. Juicy, lively with fine, firm tannins that have a delicate chew through the finish. Energetic, peppery, and deliciously charming from start to finish.
“Le Chemin Travers(e)” 2024 Chinon (12% abv., SRP 12.60EUR): The 2024 Le Chemin Travers(e) uses a small portion of whole cluster layered with the destemmed fruit (“mille-feuille” technique). Opening with fresh, exuberant red and blue fruits that have a hint of a candied undertone thanks to a bit of the semi-carbonic nature of the fermentation, which gives the aromatics a youthful vitality. Wispy, soft herbs (basil, tarragon), delicate florals and piquant, chilli flake spice. The palate is soft with a core of juicy, mouthwatering acidity and fine, silky tannins. Supple and round, instantly enjoyable.
“Le Clos du Saut au Loup” 2023 Chinon (12.5% abv., SRP 16.80EUR/$28USD): The nose immediately invites you into the glass with a depth and concentrated fruit character of black raspberry, blackcurrant, and a hint of sweet cherry. More fruit-driven than earthy, notes of cedar leaves and wood with a touch of tobacco play a supporting role on the nose. The palate is anchored by cleansing acidity, densely packed, velvety tannins, and a deliciously round, fruit-filled core, leading to an herbal (thyme) and floral (violets) finish that gives a sense of lift and elegance to the palate experience. Layered, finesse-driven, this has terrific potential for aging, but its wonderfully charming and accessible now.
“Le Clos du Saut au Loup” 2022 Chinon (14.0% abv.): A concentrated and ripe sweet berry nose that leans a bit more dark fruited (plump black raspberry, blueberry) is given a bit of levity from herbal undertones of sous bois, bay leaf and rosemary. Not overtly floral at the moment, but there is an underlying compressed violet note lingering in the background. It’s lively acidity is perhaps a bit muted at this stage being blanketed by beautifully plush fruit, but there is plenty of life and vibrancy to carry this wine for long term cellaring. The palate is round, with densely-packed, fine, sinewy tannins and a lovely earth-driven, enveloping fruit core that layers in graphite and allspice. Superb balance, restraint and approachability for the vintage.
“Le Grand Saut” 2023 Chinon (13.0% abv., SRP 20.40EUR): Open and perfumed nose inviting you in with fresh red and dark fruits (ripe raspberry, cherry, bramble) and floral undertones of rose and violets. The fragrant nose is supported by delicate and lush herbal notes on the nose and palate, while the palate showcases vibrant, mouth-watering acidity weaving with chalky, firm tannins. Very pretty, elegantly framed, with a round, enveloping mid-palate, and concluding with a delicately spiced (cardamom, nutmeg), graphite-anchored, long finish. A beautifully measured, thoughtful expression of Cabernet Franc from Chinon. Consider decanting now for optimal enjoyment.
Tasting Notes: Back Vintages
“Le Clos du Saut au Loup” 2021 Chinon (13.0% abv.): Very pretty, inviting nose that leans in the sweet-tart red fruit spectrum (raspberry, cran-raspberry juice), with soft, wispy herbs, layered with delicate violet and lilac undertones. The perfumed nose continues on the palate with a touch of spearmint and liquorice. The palate is oh-so succulent, with a bright and juicy middle palate that weaves gracefully with firm, velvety tannin. Round, persistent, demure, balanced. Like so many of the 2021s I have had in recent months, this has entered a beautiful drinking window, and I think the fruit vibrancy and concentration will easily carry this wine for another 10+ years.
“Le Clos du Saut au Loup” 2020 Chinon (13.5% abv.): Welcoming nose, with riper, slightly liquoreux fruit with notes of cherry, kirsch, black raspberry, mixing with cedar leaves and wood, dark earth, cured black olive, soft white floral undertones, graphite and spice. The palate showcases vibrant, lingering acidity, and firm, chewy tannins, with plenty of flesh and roundness leading to a focused, spice-driven (cinnamon, black peppercorn, star anise) finish. The fruit feels a little shy on the palate at the moment, compared to the 2022 and 2021, but I think this will open back up in a few years time.
“Le Clos du Saut au Loup” 2019 Chinon (13.5% abv.): Beautifully aromatic and fragrant nose leading with fresh dark berried-fruit, with invigorating notes of peppermint marrying with perfumed dried rose petal, liquorice and allspice. Vibrant, persistent acidity brings life and focus to the palate, while firm, powdery tannins provide a defined structure that yields to a voluminous, round, densely-packed fruit core. Superb balance. Drinking deliciously at the moment and shows signs that it will continue to cellar and improve over the long term.
“Le Clos du Saut au Loup” 2018 Chinon (14.0% abv.): Bright, succulent nose of beautifully ripe red and dark fruit notes (morello cherry, black raspberry, wild strawberry fruit leather) working in tandem with menthol-fleck earth (pine, rosemary), warming spices (cinnamon, Sichuan peppercorn) and the slightest hint of white chocolate/cocoa butter. Mouthwatering acidity weave with fine, silky tannins that finish with a touch of chalky grip. The pure, round, inviting palate concludes with perfumed-spicy undertones (espelette pepper, cinnamon stick) that give a sense of lift and vigour. Shows fine restraint and harmonious balance from what was an opulent, ripe vintage. Drink or hold - there is plenty of stuffing and life here. (A bottle from my personal cellar, tasted at home May 2026).
“Le Clos du Saut au Loup” 2016 Chinon (13.5% abv.): Red fruit-driven (sweet-tart fresh and dried cherries and raspberries) and showing evolved earthy notes of dried autumn leaves, dried thyme and mint, with notes of star anise, white peppercorn and cardamom carrying through the finish. The cleansing acidity provides a firm backbone alongside linen-like tannins. Lean and energetic, balanced, companionable. Drinking well for those that like old school Chinon with a bit of age. Enjoy now with roast duck leg, quail or Cornish hen.
“Le Clos du Saut au Loup” 2014 Chinon (13.0% abv.): The nose opens with a mix of red fruit and earthy-herbal notes, both beginning to lean into the dried spectrum (dried cranberry, dried cherry, dried tarragon and sage), coupled with a melange of classic spice undertones (cinnamon, clove, liquorice) and tertiary cedar wood and tobacco. The acidity is fresh and mouthwatering, the tannins are fine and chalky. Similarly to the 2016, this is a structured but svelte expression of Chinon, that is classically styled, elegant, with lovely tension and balance. Complete. Drinking well and very in keeping with other 2014s I’ve tasted from the region.
52 Rue du Rouilly, 37500 Ligré, France
+33 2 47 93 17 67
Open to the public for tastings: Monday to Friday: 9am – 12:30pm & 2pm – 6pm; Saturday 10am to 1pm
Global Distribution: Current available in the US (10 states), UK, Belgium, Denmark, Finland, the Maldives, Mauritius, Reunion Island, and Israel.