Domaine de la Chapelle, 2023 Chinon "Les Lutteurs”
Cab Franc du Jour #157
Domaine de la Chapelle is situated in the hamlet of Le Puy in Cravant-les-Côteaux and was established in 1983 when Philippe Pichard took over his grandparents’ small polyculture domaine. Recognising the importance of soil health from the outset, he began farming organically in the late 1980s. Following some health complications, Philippe sold the domaine in 2012 to Francis and Annick Jourdan, though he continued to guide the operation until his retirement in 2019. With no heirs, Francis and Annick in turn sold the domaine in 2022 to longtime Loire enthusiast and real estate developer Laurent Dumas, opening an exciting new chapter for the estate. Day-to-day work in the vineyards and cellar is managed by Cédric Monroy, who took over following Philippe’s retirement. The domaine comprises 17 hectares of vines, of which 15.5 are planted with Cabernet Franc, all farmed certified biodynamic with Demeter.
The Alluvial Terrace in Cravant-les-Côteaux
The Les Lutteurs cuvée comes from parcels on the alluvial terrace in Cravant-les-Côteaux, and that terrace deserves some attention. When we think of the archetypal Chinon Rouge, with its soft, approachable style and savoury berry fruit with noble herbaceous undertones, these wines are most often coming from this very terrace. Cravant-les-Côteaux accounts for around 50% of the entire Chinon appellation’s production, owing in large part to the extent of this alluvial terrace, which dominates the commune and accounts for roughly 68% of its vineyard area.
The terrace stretches along the north bank, or right bank, of the Vienne River for about 9km across the communes of Chinon, Cravant-les-Côteaux, and Panzoult, with nearly 75% of that area falling within Cravant-les-Côteaux alone. The vineyard area begins close to the Vienne and extends inland roughly 2km toward the slopes.
Several features define the growing environment here. Proximity to the Vienne River and the many tributaries that weave across the terrace means water access is generally good, which naturally encourages slightly higher yields. The topography is low-lying and flat, making the vineyards easier to work and allowing for uninterrupted sunshine throughout the day, which supports ripening. The flat terrain also means that mechanical harvesting is possible, unlike on the steeper slopes.
The soils themselves are more complex than they might first appear. Researchers working with the Chinon appellation have identified 18 individual terroir units of alluvial origin across the region, grouped into three broad categories based on terrace age and composition. On the Cravant terrace, all three groups are present, but broadly speaking the soils are predominantly sandy to sandy-silty, with occasional pockets carrying a higher proportion of clay. These deeper topsoils give way to subsoils that are sandy, clayey-sandy, or in some cases heavily gravelly, with stoniness varying widely across the terrace from virtually none to 50 to 100% gravels. All of this directly influences the vine’s access to water, which in turn affects vigour and yield. The lighter texture of these soils, combined with generally good water availability, tends to favour lighter, softer, less structured, early-drinking styles of Cabernet Franc, though there are always exceptions.
The Lieux-Dits
The Les Lutteurs cuvée is sourced from a combined one hectare of vines across two lieux-dits, La Bellonnière and Doulaie, both situated on the alluvial terrace in the heart of Cravant, about 850m apart from one another. The soil profiles across the two parcels are similar in character but differ in texture: Bellonnière carries a little more clay in both topsoil and subsoil, while Doulaie is dominated by sandy-silt with a greater proportion of gravels throughout. What distinguishes these parcels and makes them particularly suited to this cuvée is vine age. The vines at Doulaie were planted in 1970 and 1971, and those at Bellonnière in 1962 and 1963, meaning lower natural yields and greater concentration than is typical from this terrace. The combination of old vine character and the nature of the soils gives Les Lutteurs more body, flesh, and energy than most wines from the alluvial terrace, along with a degree of structure and ageability that sets it apart.
In the Cellar
The fruit is hand-harvested and fully destemmed, with the berries transported to tank by gravity. Fermentation takes place in large conical wooden vats with indigenous yeast, and maceration runs approximately three weeks through infusion. Following the post-fermentation maceration, the free-run and press wines are separated, and only the free-run wine is used in the finished cuvée. Aging takes place for about one year in a combination of the large wooden vats and some 400L barrels.
The 2023 Vintage
The 2023 vintage in the Loire was a complicated one! A cooler, more humid summer created significant disease pressure, but conditions improved markedly as the season progressed, with warmer temperatures, lower humidity, and sunnier skies providing favourable ripening conditions in the weeks leading up to harvest. That said, there was considerable variability from parcel to parcel, and the vintage rewarded those who were meticulous about their work in the vineyard leading up to harvest as well as the cellar. Based on the wines tasted to date, 2023 sits in a pleasing middle ground between 2021 and 2022: it has the freshness and lift of the cool, wet 2021 vintage, but with the phenolic maturity closer to the warm, dry 2022. The wines are generally built on a lighter frame, with alcohols in the 12 to 13% range and bright natural acidity, suggesting real aging potential. Overall, 2023 is presenting as a modern yet classic Loire vintage.
In the Glass
Purity and clarity lead on the nose, with a quality that is almost luminous. Fruit and herbals are in beautiful balance with small dark berries leading (blackcurrant, wild black raspberry, a touch of red currant and cherry) alongside a delicate, refined pyrazine profile reminiscent of soft herbs (basil, tarragon) as well as fresh moss. A pepperiness and delicate floral note complete a nose that is lifted, juicy, and immediately inviting.
The palate deepens the picture considerably. Those dark berries carry through cleanly, while the florals being more pronounced and a wonderful melange of pink and black pepper drives the savoury-earthy character forward. Anise and liquorice add further intrigue. Acidity is bright, lively, succulent, and persistent, beautifully integrated with the fruit. Tannins are divine: silky, supple, and fine, with a crushed velvet grip at the finish that adds texture without weight. Fruit, acid, and tannin are seamlessly woven, with a lovely fruit sweetness at the core tying everything together.
What impresses most is the contrast between the wine’s approachable, generous character and its genuine depth, concentration, and persistence. Round and broad through the mid-palate, yet packaged in a lithe, ethereal, medium-bodied frame. Remarkable presence at just 12% alcohol. A pure, layered, elegant expression of Cabernet Franc from the alluvial soils in Cravant that pulls you in with its aromatic complexity, energetic focus and quiet confidence.
Wine Details
Producer: Domaine de la Chapelle
Appellation: Chinon
Commune: Cravant-les-Côteaux
Lieu-Dit: La Bellonnière, Doulaie
Soil: Sand and silty-sand topsoils, with a combination of clay and gravel subsoils
Alcohol: 12.0%