Domaine de la Chevalerie, 2014 Bourgueil ‘Bretêche’
Cab Franc du Jour #147
The Caslot family can trace its roots in Bourgueil back to 1640. Today, 14th-generation siblings Emmanuel and Laurie have taken up the reins at the estate following the passing of their father Pierre in 2014 and their sister Stéphanie in 2021. The family farms 33 hectares of vineyards planted exclusively with Cabernet Franc, with parcels concentrated predominantly in the commune of Restigné and some in Benais, most notably in the lieu-dit Grand-Mont.
Meticulous, thoughtful work in the vineyard is a core tenet of the family’s philosophy. The estate has been certified organic since 2008 and certified biodynamic since 2012, and goes further still with regenerative farming practices including permanent cover crops and no-till farming.
The domaine produces several expressions of Cabernet Franc. Their Cuvées d’Inspiration, including the beloved Dyptique, Franco de Porc, and Noms d’Oiseaux, are blends across multiple parcels, each with a specific stylistic vision. Alongside these sits an ambitious range of six cuvées parcellaires, wines from individual lieux-dits designed to showcase the distinct terroirs from which they come. Five of these come from the commune of Restigné: Galichets, Chevalerie, Busardières, Bretêche, and Peu Muleau, all from parcels within a 500-metre radius of the domaine, each with its own personality and sense of place.
The Commune of Restigné
Restigné is one of the most complex communes in the Bourgueil appellation from a terroir pespective. It sits on the eastern side of the Changeon River, bordered to the north by Benais and to the east by Ingrandes-de-Touraine. Along with the commune of Bourgueil on the opposite bank of the Changeon, Restigné is one of only two communes in the appellation with a significant concentration of vineyards on both the ancient alluvial terrace and the slopes above it.
The ancient alluvial terrace begins roughly 3km north of the Loire River and extends about 4km from east to west and 1.25km from north to south, sitting at elevations of around 35 to 45 meters above sea level. The soils here are predominantly sandy to silty-sandy, with varying amounts of gravel, all resting atop lower Turonian tuffeau.
In the northeastern part of the commune, the slope rises over a little more than a kilometre toward the forests to the north, spanning roughly 1.5km in width, with a predominantly southwestern exposure following the treeline. Topsoils here become shallower and more clay-rich. Elevations range from about 55 to 70 meters above sea level, and the geology is dominated by Middle Turonian white tuffeau chalk, with a narrow band of upper Turonian yellow tuffeau toward the top. At the very northern edge of the commune, at elevations of around 75 to 80 meters, deep Senonian-era clays and sands mixed with flint take over.
La Bretêche
Of the five Restigné cuvées parcellaires, three sit mid-slope with a southwest-facing exposure. Les Galichets is located toward the foot of the slope where the alluvial terrace transitions upward, while Peu Muleau sits at the very top. Busardières lies just above Chevalerie, and La Bretêche is located roughly 500 meters directly east of Chevalerie.
La Bretêche is a 12.5-hectare lieu-dit, of which the Caslot family owns about 1.65 hectares. They acquired these parcels in the late 1980s, produced their first vintage of the cuvée in 1994, and the vines today average around 40 years of age.
The family has invested considerable effort in understanding the soil nuances across their parcels, and when you visit the domaine, soil samples from each lieu-dit are prominently on display so visitors can appreciate the diversity of terroirs contained within this small area. Although La Bretêche sits directly east of Chevalerie, it shares more in common with Busardières from a terroir standpoint, owing to how the slope follows the forested treeline to the north. The profile here begins with roughly 50cm of sandy clay topsoil mixed with chalk, sandstone, and quartz gravels, followed by another 50cm of chalky silty-sand subsoil, before reaching the Middle Turonian tuffeau beneath, a glauconitic-micaceous chalk.
In the Cellar
The fruit is hand-harvested, destemmed, and left as whole berries. Fermentation takes place in a combination of concrete and stainless steel vessels using indigenous yeast at around 25C, with a total maceration of approximately 34 days using an infusion approach. After maceration, the free-run wine is drained from the skins, which are then gently pressed. The free-run and press wines are reassembled and aged in older 500-liter oak barrels for around seven months.
One of the qualities that makes Domaine de la Chevalerie so beloved among wine professionals and enthusiasts is the family’s commitment to extended bottle aging at the domaine before release. Current releases of La Bretêche include the 2014, 2015, and 2017 vintages, each retailing for around 20 euros at the domaine and typically no more than 30 USD in most export markets, which is a remarkable value for wines with upwards of a decade of age behind them.
Wine Details
Producer: Domaine de la Chevalerie
Appellation: Bourgueil
Commune: Restigné
Lieux-Dits: Bretêche
Soils: 50cm sandy-clay with chalk, sandstone and quartz stones, 50cm chalky sandy-silt, over the Middle Turonian white tuffeau chalk
Alcohol: 13%