Domaine de Nerleux, 2021 Saumur-Champigny “Clos des Châtains”
Cab Franc du Jour #165
For nine generations the Neau family have been a vital part of the viticultural landscape across the commune of Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg in Saumur-Champigny. Vigneron Eugène Neau acquired additional parcels to establish Domaine de Nerleux in 1870, and the domaine was eventually passed to his son Robert, who not only continued as an independent vigneron but also co-founded the Caves de Saumur, the appellation’s cooperative, alongside his cousin Marcel Neau. Robert Neau was grandfather to two important native Saint-Cyriens and vignerons: cousins Arnaud Lambert, whose father established Domaine Saint-Just with parcels from his mother’s side of the family, and Amélie Neau, proprietaire-vigneronne and the ninth generation of the Neau family, the first woman to lead Domaine de Nerleux, who took over from her father in 2010. The domaine today comprises 28 hectares of organically farmed vines, producing a thoughtful range of five reds alongside a rosé in both still and sparkling form from their Cabernet Franc vines.
Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg Commune
All of Domaine de Nerleux’s Cabernet Franc parcels are situated within the commune of Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg, making their range of reds a genuine expression of its terroir. Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg is notably the southernmost commune in the Saumur-Champigny appellation, beginning about 5km southeast of the Loire River. The majority of its vineyards are situated on the butte of Saint-Cyr, a large plateau of tuffeau chalky limestone that was quarried out over centuries to build the castles and buildings of the Loire, leaving an estimated 200km of caves and tunnels beneath the village and its vineyards.
Viticulture in the commune is concentrated in two areas. The first hugs a forested zone in the eastern part of the commune, where vines tend to face west. The second sits directly on the limestone butte, dotted around the village itself, with the majority of vineyards on the southwestern side. In this latter area, all exposures are represented: north, south, east, and west.
Unlike some other communes in the appellation, the soils of Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg are relatively straightforward to characterize. The majority of vineyards lie between 40 and 60m above sea level over a bedrock of Middle Turonian tuffeau, known locally as craie verte, a glauconitic-micaceous chalk. A couple of small pockets at slightly higher elevations, around 65 to 70m, sit on the Upper Turonian yellow tuffeau. Topsoils are relatively shallow and fairly homogeneous across the commune, with a clay-silt texture carrying roughly 25 to 40% clay content depending on the parcel.
What makes Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg particularly interesting from a viticultural standpoint is that its position set back from the Loire, combined with its soil character, makes it a touch warmer than many other communes in the appellation, with vineyards that tend toward earlier budbreak and earlier maturity. That precocity can be especially advantageous in cooler vintages such as 2021.
The Vineyard
The Clos des Châtains Vieilles Vignes is sourced from approximately 5 hectares of vines, drawn predominantly from the lieu-dit Châtains with a small contribution from the lieu-dit Mureaux. Both are located on the western side of the butte of Saint-Cyr, giving the parcels a predominantly southwest-facing exposure. Châtains sits a little further downslope, which translates to slightly deeper soils: just over a metre of topsoil before reaching the Middle Turonian tuffeau chalk bedrock, with a clayey-silty sand texture in the topsoil and a clay subsoil beneath. The vines in this parcel are among the oldest in the domaine, planted between 1949 and 1953.
In the Cellar
The fruit is machine harvested and fully destemmed. Amélie prepares a small pied de cuve with selected yeast to initiate fermentation, which then takes place in stainless steel with temperature control, ranging from 28 to 32C. Extraction is achieved through an innovative and exceptionally gentle remontage system: a large donut-shaped balloon is placed inside the tank and slowly inflated to submerge the cap, then deflated once per day so that the wine flows gently over the cap, providing a very soft extraction. Total skin contact runs approximately 19 to 21 days. The wine is aged entirely in stainless steel for around 12 to 15 months before bottling.
In the Glass
Perfumed and lifted on the nose, with beautiful purity and real depth of character. The fruit profile leans darker and sweet-tart (blackcurrant, black raspberry, a touch of griotte) but takes a backseat to expressive herbal and earthy notes: thyme, rosemary, mint, and liquorice, with a pleasing peppery lift. The earthy undertones are complemented by pleasant florals (rose, peony, sandalwood) as well.
Notes of sous-bois and cedar come through more on the palate alongside the dark fruit, and a distinctive spice signature (black and pink peppercorn, clove, nutmeg, and sumac). The acidity is vibrant and invigorating, providing a lively backbone that animates the mid-palate and delivers excellent length. Tannins are finely woven and velvety in texture, building through the mid-palate to a firm, chalky finish that signals genuine aging potential. Medium-bodied, with a plush, enveloping quality through the centre, the wine has a well-defined structure in keeping with the vintage. Contemporary in styling, honest, pretty, and refined, with complexity, layers, and balance.
Drink now decanted with duck confit or entrecôte, or cellar with confidence.
Wine Details
Producer: Domaine de Nerleux
Appellation: Saumur-Champigny
Commune: St-Cyr-en-Bourg
Lieu-Dit: Châtains
Soil: A little over a meter of topsoil, clayey-silt over clay, over the Middle Turonian tuff eau chalk bedrock (craie verte)
Alcohol: 13.5%