Domaine des Closiers, 2020 Saumur-Champigny “Les Closiers”
Cab Franc du Jour #112
Located in the commune of Parnay, Domaine des Closiers is a historic estate in Saumur-Champigny with roots stretching back several generations. The word “closiers” itself has deep local significance: many centuries ago it was the term given to the vignerons who worked the land and lived in the troglodyte dwellings carved out of the tuffeau.
The modern story of the domaine begins in 2018, when it was purchased by Épernay native Anatole de la Brosse. An oenologist by training, Anatole had a successful career as a management consultant before choosing the path of the vine. The domaine comprises 15 hectares of vineyards, of which 14 hectares are Cabernet Franc, with the majority of parcels in Parnay and a few in the neighbouring communes of Souzay-Champigny and Turquant. Under the direction of renowned viticulturalist Michel Chervé, the estate began its organic conversion in 2020, and in the cellar Anatole is guided by his longtime friend Nady Foucault.
The domaine produces three Cabernet Francs: two cuvées parcellaires, Les Coudraies and Trezellières, and the domaine wine Les Closiers, drawn from multiple parcels. A fourth cuvée parcellaire, Bay Rouge, from an enchanting little clos, had its first vintage in 2020 and remains in barrel awaiting release.
The Commune of Parnay
Parnay is one of the six communes in Saumur-Champigny that hugs the Loire River, bordered to the east by Turquant and to the west by Souzay-Champigny. The commune’s viticultural area begins at the edge of the plateau on the south side of the Loire, concentrated in an area roughly 2.5km from north to south and just over 1.5km from east to west. Unlike some other communes in the appellation where a degree of terroir homogeneity makes for straightforward characterization, Parnay is more complex. The topography is quite varied, giving rise to a wide range of vineyard aspects and elevations that have in turn exposed a labyrinth of soil types over time.
In the northern part of the commune, closest to the Loire, the majority of vineyards are perched on the tuffeau chalk plateau at elevations between 55 and 68m above sea level. Both Upper and Middle Turonian tuffeau chalk are found here, with topsoils that carry a higher proportion of clay and tend to be somewhat shallow. These sites also carry a more northerly orientation.
In the central and southern parts of the commune, a large forested area at higher elevation surrounds the vineyard area in a broad U-shape, providing protection from winds and enhancing biodiversity. Vineyards here sit at slightly higher elevations, from around 70 to upwards of 90m above sea level. The soils are more varied in origin, including terroirs dating to the Senonian age and the Eocene epoch, with some sites carrying considerably more sand in the topsoil and generally deeper profiles overall. Exposures here can face in almost any direction depending on how each vineyard is positioned relative to the surrounding forest. Visiting this southern part of the commune, the way the forests envelop the vineyards and the panoramic view it offers over the northern part of Parnay makes it one of the more quietly spectacular corners of the appellation.
The Parcels for “Les Closiers”
The wine is drawn from approximately 8 hectares across four lieux-dits in Parnay and one parcel in Turquant. The parcels share a fine clay topsoil ranging from 30 to 50cm in depth over the Middle Turonian tuffeau chalk, and carry a predominantly northerly exposure. Anatole explained that this orientation is actually quite advantageous, as it allows for slightly slower ripening, which in turn helps to ensure that phenolic maturity aligns well with technical maturity at harvest, giving the fruit balanced acidity and sugars alongside good polyphenolic ripeness.
In the Cellar
The fruit is hand-harvested and sorted three times by hand before being fully destemmed. It then undergoes a cold soak of approximately 10 days prior to alcoholic fermentation. Anatole takes particular care to ensure the fermentation temperature does not exceed 20C, fermenting with indigenous yeast throughout. Total skin contact is approximately 30 days, with maceration by infusion and only the occasional gentle pump-over to keep the cap moist. After the free-run wine is drained from the skins, the skins are very lightly pressed, meaning press wine represents only a small fraction of the finished cuvée. For the 2020 vintage, aging took place entirely in stainless steel for approximately 8 to 10 months before bottling.
Wine Details
Producer: Domaine des Closiers
Appellation: Saumur-Champigny
Commune: Parnay
Lieux-Dits: Bosse de Baux, Champs Cerceaux,Bretinières, Coudraies, Bourdes Foin (Turquant)
Soils: varied; predominately a shallow fine, clay-dominated topsoil atop the Middle Turonian tuffeau chalk bedrock
Alcohol: 13.0%