Domaine des Grillemonts, 2019 Saumur Rosé
Cab Franc du Jour #3
One of the reasons I love Cabernet Franc so much is its versatility. We know it for its red wines, but the grape also makes beautiful rosés and sparkling wines. Today’s example comes from husband-and-wife team Lydie and Thierry Chancelle, who run Domaine des Grillemonts, a fifth-generation grape-growing estate located in the commune of Turquant in Saumur-Champigny.
It is worth remembering that Saumur-Champigny is exclusively a red wine appellation, so when Cabernet Franc is used for rosé or sparkling wine it falls under a different designation, in this case the Saumur Rosé AOP. The village of Turquant has fewer than 600 inhabitants and 10 vignerons, and it is located very close to the Loire River giving the vineyards a beautiful moderating influence. The tuffeau limestone subsoil is found throughout the region, with a somewhat shallower clay topsoil in Turquant specifically.
This wine was made by direct press, the classic rosé technique, as opposed to saignée. On the nose it is very delicate, with a floral quality, tart red fruits, almost white raspberry, a touch of cranberry, and in classic Loire fashion the herbaceousness of the grape comes through as lemon thyme and a hint of rhubarb. The palate is wonderfully zesty, almost like grapefruit zest, tart, lively, and refreshing, but it is beautifully balanced by a creaminess through the mid-palate that keeps the wine from feeling too bracing. It is all-encompassing and complete in that way.
This is a gorgeous example of what Cabernet Franc is capable of as a rosé grape. The character of the variety comes through clearly, and there is a genuine sense of place here, of Turquant and the Saumur-Champigny commune. There is a tenderness and delicacy to this wine that I find genuinely beautiful - reminiscent of Queen Anne’s lace blowing in a summer breeze. A lovely example of rosé, and another reason why I love this grape so much.
Wine Details
Producer: Domaine des Grillemonts (Lydie et Thierry Chancelle)
Region: Saumur-Champigny
Appellation: Saumur Rosé
Communes: Turquant
Soils: Shallow clay topsoil over tuffeau chalky limestone
Alcohol: 12.5%