Domaine du Bel Air, 2018 Bourgueil ‘Clos Nouveau’
Cab Franc du Jour #124
In 1979, at the age of 14, Pierre Gauthier, fourth generation of Domaine du Bel Air, began working alongside his father André tending the family’s vines in the commune of Benais in Bourgueil. Over the following four decades, Pierre quietly and humbly built the domaine into one of the most respected and celebrated estates in the appellation. Since 2005, his son Rodolphe has joined him, and together they work with about 18 hectares of Cabernet Franc in Benais. The estate received organic certification in 2000.
Pierre and Rodolphe produce five Cabernet Francs: two blends from across multiple parcels, Jour de Soif and Les Vingts Lieux-Dits, and three cuvées parcellaires, Les Marsaules, Grand-Mont, and Clos Nouveau, the latter two widely regarded as among the finest vineyards not only in Benais but in the entire Bourgueil appellation.
The Commune of Benais
Located on the east side of the Changeon River, about 5km north of the Loire, Benais is unique within the appellation in that it is the only commune situated exclusively on the côte, meaning all of its vineyards rest on Turonian tuffeau bedrock. The viticultural area spans roughly 2.5km from north to south and just over 3km from east to west.
Two geographical features define the slope exposures across the commune: the Changeon River to the west and the Benais forest to the north. In the western part of the commune, slopes face southwest toward the Changeon. Moving east, the slopes follow a gentle arc, with a full southern exposure at the centre of the commune and a slightly more south-southeast orientation toward the east.
The type of tuffeau bedrock varies with elevation. From 30 to around 50m above sea level, the influence is the Lower Turonian tuffeau; from around 50 to 70m, the Middle Turonian tuffeau takes over; and above 70m, at the northern edge of the commune, vineyards sit on the Upper Turonian tuffeau. Topsoils vary widely across the commune, but Benais generally carries a higher proportion of clay than the lower-lying areas closer to the Loire.
The commune’s position set back from the Loire, combined with its clay-limestone soils, gives Benais a long and gradual growing season that allows for full phenolic maturity of both skins and seeds. The wines of Benais are consequently among the most structured and tannic in the Bourgueil appellation.
Clos Nouveau
Located in the heart of the village of Benais, about 6km north of the Loire, Clos Nouveau is widely regarded as one of the most historic and prized vineyards in the Bourgueil appellation. The history of viticulture here can be traced back to the 13th century, when the site was part of the vineyards belonging to the Château de Benais. The clos itself was built around 1600 by the du Bellay family, descendants of the poet Joachim du Bellay, and is entirely enclosed by limestone walls standing 3m tall.
The entire clos covers around 1.3 hectares, with 1.15 hectares planted to vine. In keeping with the tradition of the site and to enhance biodiversity, 15 ares are planted with a variety of fruit trees trained in espalier against the perimeter walls. The vineyard sits on a plateau with a full south-facing exposure at around 60m above sea level, placing it on the Middle Turonian white tuffeau chalk. The topsoil is very shallow, with only 30cm of siliceous sandy-clay before the tuffeau is reached. The clos’s unique position, set back from the moderating influence of the Loire and entirely enclosed by its tall walls, affords the vines a long, warm growing season.
Pierre has shared that as a boy, he walked past those 3m walls every day on his way to school. As he began his journey as a vigneron, the older vignerons of Benais told him that the greatest Cabernet Franc in the appellation came from the vines enclosed by those walls. He dreamed that one day he would become their caretaker.
In 2005, that dream became a reality when Domaine du Bel Air purchased Clos Nouveau, making them only the third owner since 1798. Following the purchase, Pierre and Rodolphe undertook a careful restoration of the vineyard, with vine material tracing back to the early 1900s. The average vine age today is around 40 years. As part of the restoration, century-old large schist stakes were installed at the end of each row, a nod to the past and to the significance of the Angevin wine culture of the region.
In the Cellar
Yields from the clos are consistent at around 35 hl/ha. The fruit is hand-harvested, hand-sorted, and destemmed, with the whole berries undergoing a cold soak before alcoholic fermentation in stainless steel with indigenous yeast, the temperature kept below 30C throughout. Total skin contact is 20 days, with light pump-overs during the first 15 days followed by daily pigeage for the final five. The finished cuvée is comprised of 95% free-run wine and 5% press wine. Élevage takes place over 24 months in 500L oak barrels, 70% of which are new, followed by six months in stainless steel before bottling.
Wine Details
Producer: Domaine du Bel Air (Pierre Gauthier)
Appellation: Bourgueil
Commune: Benais
Lieux-Dits: Clos Nouveau
Soils: 20-30cm siliceous sandy-clay over the Middle Turonian white tuffeau chalk
Alcohol: 13.5%