Domaine Sauveroy, 2023 Anjou Villages “Victoire”
Cab Franc du Jour #166
The first vines were planted at what is now Domaine Sauveroy in St-Lambert-du-Lattay, in the heart of the Layon River valley, back in 1866. The modern story of the estate, which begins in 1947, is unique in western Anjou and rooted in a deep passion for Cabernet Franc.
In a region best known for its noble sweet wines made from Chenin Blanc, Francis Cailleau believed it was possible to make exceptional Cabernet Franc and began producing Anjou Rouge from his domaine’s vines in the 1950s. His commitment to the variety was further reinforced when he served as president of the syndicate of Anjou Rouge producers from 1978 to 1981. That love of Cabernet Franc has been passed down through the generations, from Francis to his son Pascal, and now to his grandson Quentin, who joined the domaine in 2018.
Domaine Sauveroy today farms 26 hectares of vines, 11 of which are planted with Cabernet Franc. Rather than producing a single expression of the variety, as is common among many domaines in this part of Anjou, the estate makes four distinct Cabernet Francs, each seeking to highlight the complex terroirs and soils of their various parcels. The domaine is certified organic, with a strong emphasis on soil health, including leaving parcels fallow for three to seven years before replanting. In 2022 they also began employing agro-forestry practices, planting 1,000 trees throughout the domaine to enhance biodiversity across the vineyards.
Anjou-Villages AOP
Before exploring the terroir, it is worth clarifying the appellation. This wine is an Anjou-Villages, which differs from an Anjou Rouge in a few meaningful ways. The broader Anjou AOP covers red, white, and sparkling wines across a large area of about 88 communes, and for an Anjou Rouge the principal grapes are Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, with allowances for up to 20% Grolleau and up to 10% Pineau d’Aunis, at maximum yields of 60 hl/ha. Anjou-Villages, by contrast, is exclusively a red wine appellation using only Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, with yields capped at 55 hl/ha and production limited to 26 communes, the majority of which follow the Layon River through the Coteaux du Layon territory.
St-Lambert-du-Lattay Commune
Today’s wine takes us to the commune of St-Lambert-du-Lattay, the heart and soul of the Coteaux du Layon production area, with a viticultural history stretching back to the Middle Ages, when the nuns of the Ronceray Abbey of Angers established one of their priories in the village.
St-Lambert-du-Lattay sits in western Anjou, about 20km south of Angers and 12km northwest of Thouarcé, on the left bank of the Layon River. This is Anjou Noir territory, where the ancient rocks of the Massif Armoricain take over from the limestone-based soils of the Paris Basin. Anjou Noir is the collective term for these old rocks, a complex mix of schists, slates, and sandstones. In broad terms, Brioverian schists dominate the left bank of the Layon, while the St-Georges series of schists and Carboniferous sandstones characterise the right bank.
As with the limestone soils of the Paris Basin, these Anjou Noir soils are varied in origin and composition, but what matters most for Cabernet Franc is that they are all dark, dense, brittle rocks with poor water retention capacity. Combined with the region’s relatively low annual rainfall of 600 to 700mm, this creates a real risk of hydric stress for Cabernet Franc, which can block maturity and amplify the variety’s inherent rusticity, producing wines with harder, more austere tannins. Site selection therefore becomes critical, with deeper and more clay-rich soils offering the best chance of providing adequate moisture reserves for the vines.
The Vineyard
The Victoire is sourced from 1.85 hectares of younger vines across three lieux-dits: La Masse Cassée, Carrefour Rouge, and La Pièce Longue, all located principally around the domaine in the southern part of St-Lambert-du-Lattay and all with a gentle southern exposure. The soils in these parcels are somewhat deeper than typical for the area, with a silty-clay topsoil rich in gravels and quartz over a subsoil of clay, sitting atop a bedrock of Brioverian schist, here a mix of green, black, ochre, and purple micaceous, talc-rich sandstone-schist. Quentin explains that these parcels were chosen for the Victoire cuvée because of their precocity, delivering balanced maturity, while the clayey soils contribute a little more flesh and volume to the finished wine.
In the Cellar
The fruit is hand-harvested and fully destemmed before fermenting in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts at 25 to 28C. Maceration is primarily by infusion throughout, with just two to three pump-overs in total, and total skin contact of 18 days. The free-run and press wines are kept separate initially, with a small percentage of press wine added back before aging. The wine is then aged for 12 months in clay amphorae of 160L and 750L, vessels chosen for the gentle micro-oxygenation the clay provides, which helps to soften and polymerize the tannins while preserving the purity of the fruit.
In the Glass
Lifted, pure, and fragrant on the nose, with sweet-tart blackcurrant, raspberry, and morello cherry alongside expressive foresty herbals (cedar leaf, sous-bois, wet leaves) and warming spice (Sichuan pepper and cinnamon). Shows great complexity up front, particularly for the price point.
The palate is medium-bodied and juicy, with blackcurrant taking the lead and fresh herbal notes (nettle, mint, sage, juniper) adding interest. Acidity is soft and builds quietly toward the finish. The tannins are beautifully managed: fine, crisp, and uniform, with a characteristic firmness that speaks directly to the schist, that is to say they are less “pliable” than the tannins from Cabernet Franc on tuffeau. Clean, well-structured, sultry and fruit-forward in its pleasure, elegant, approachable yet quietly reserved. Shows beautiful typicity from this part of Anjou and an excellent value at approximately €15 from the domaine.
Wine Details
Producer: Domaine Sauveroy
Appellation: Anjou Villages
Commune: St-Lambert-du-Lattay
Lieux-Dits: La Masse Casse, Carrefour Rouge, La Pièce Longue
Soils: Silty-clay topsoil with an abundance of gravels and quartz, clayey subsoil (over 1m of topsoil and subsoil), over a Brioverian schist bedrock
Alcohol: 13.5%
SRP: 15EUR