Domaine Stéphane Guion: A Benevolent Spirit Rooted in Benais
No.77 | Producer Feature
The wines of Domaine Stéphane Guion hold a rare distinction - they are better known outside France than within it. And that is certainly how I was first introduced to this domaine.
The United States has had a number of pioneering importers - Kermit Lynch, Joe Dressner, Neal Rosenthal to name a few - who fell in love with Loire Valley Cabernet Franc, long before the likes of Clos Rougeard and others became coveted favourites among wine professionals. David Lille of Chamber Street Wines is not mentioned to the same degree as some of the aforementioned importers, but one quick browse of the company’s online store and you will see very quickly that David has a soft spot in his heart for the Loire Valley. And thanks to David Lille’s keen palate, he “discovered” Stéphane Guion and his wines back in 2009 and didn't hesitate to see what others had missed.
My first introduction to Stéphane’s wines came when I lived in Miami, when there was a local distributor carrying the range from Percy Selections. I remember being immediately taken with the domaine’s style of Cabernet Franc, which felt akin to some of the wines I fell in love with when I started this journey, such as the great wines of Olga Raffault, Domaine Breton and others. The wines were pure, honest, somewhat old school expressions of Loire Cabernet Franc that celebrated the strong identity of the grape in all of its glory. I understood the wines well enough then, or so I thought. It would take meeting the vigneron behind them to understand them completely.
I had the pleasure of meeting Stéphane for the first time at the domaine for a tasting in the spring of 2022. It was my last appointment in a very ambitious day of tasting in the eastern part of the Bourgueil appellation, and I arrived at the domaine over an hour late. On arrival, I was befuddled, embarrassed, and mentally exhausted from speaking in French the entire day. Stéphane's kind and compassionate energy was welcomed, and in that ease, something crystallized. The wines I had admired from a distance were suddenly explained; not by what was in the glass, but by the person standing in front of me. The honesty of the wines, their quiet charm, their lack of pretension - he was them, and they were him.
The Domaine
The estate was established in the early 1950s by Stéphane’s parents, Jean and Yolande Guion, with 5 hectares of vines from Jean’s side of the family and 3 from Yolande’s side. Their humble beginnings were like many domaines in the Loire, beginning as a polyculture farm, tending to other crops in addition to their Cabernet Franc vines.
One aspect of the estate’s history that makes it particularly unique is their focus on organic viticulture. Jean and Yolande converted to organic viticulture in 1965 - at a time when it was far more fashionable to use whatever new fertilizer/herbicide/pesticide came available to make farming easier. Instead, with their deep concern and respect for the environment, Jean and Yolande chose to farm organically following the Lemaire-Boucher method.
Stéphane’s own journey as a vigneron began in the mid-1980s, pursuing wine studies in Bordeaux before going on to become Maître de Chai at Chinon’s Château de Vaugaudry from 1988 to 1994. His first vintage at the family domaine in Benais was 1990. Not much has changed at the domaine since these modest beginnings, and that is part of what makes Stéphane and his range of Cabernet Francs so endearing.
The Vineyards
Stéphane is working with around 9 hectares of vines from parcels from across the commune of Benais exclusively. The main lieux-dits he is farming include, from northwest to southeast, Chavannes, le Maupas, la Caverie, Grand Mont, les Marquises, and Petit Mont.
The commune of Benais is situated on the east side of the Changeon River, and the heart of the commune’s viticultural landscape is situated about 5 to 6km north of the Loire River. This position makes Benais unique in the Bourgueil appellation: its vineyards are exclusively on the slopes (the/le côte) and it is the only commune in the appellation that does not have vineyards on the alluvial terraces.
The location of the commune and, by extension, the lieux-dits with which Stéphane is working, means that the terroir across these parcels is distinct from other parts of the Bourgueil appellation, and that distinction is felt in the glass. Firstly, the microclimate tends to be a little bit cooler overall as there is less moderation from the Loire River as well as the temperate effects of the forêt de Benais to the north. It is worth mentioning, however, that the slopes do benefit from predominately south- to southwest-facing exposures promoting enhanced ripening during the growing season despite the slightly cooler conditions.
Secondly, the soils on the côte in Benais are what the French broadly call argilo-calcaire, that is, clay-limestone soils. More specifically, it is notably that Benais does not really have the same deep, light textured, sandy or sandy-silty soils that we find on the alluvial terrace, rather the vineyard topsoils range from very clayey to a clay silt-loam mix (argile limoneuse in French). The soils are typically quite shallow, 50-60cm on average, and upwards to 100 to 150cm in some places, followed by a bedrock of either the Middle or Upper Turonian tuffeau chalk.
It is generally understood across Bourgueil and the other Cabernet Franc appellations in the Loire that these clay-limestone soils are best suited to producing structured, age-worthy expressions of the grape. The nature of these soils, coupled with the cooler microclimate, means that these sites in Benais are often some of the last to be picked in the appellation. The long hang-time allows for more phenolic development of the skins and seeds, which can give firmer tannins and a more pronounced tannic structure in the glass, and for this reason the wines from Benais are known to be the most structured and tannic of the Bourgueil appellation.
The Wines
Stéphane’s core range of Cabernet Francs include his Cuvée Candide (formerly the Cuvée Domaine), Cuvée Authentique (formerly the Cuvée Préstige) and his top expression Grand Mont or Deux Monts depending on the vintage. While the choice of vessel for winemaking and aging varies slightly with each cuvée, across the board Stéphane approaches his vinifications using native yeast, adjusting his maceration time and extraction techniques as per the cuvée and the vintage, and favouring longer bottle aging before releasing the wines to market.
In my experience with Stéphane's Cabernet Francs, the wines are a faithful reflection of the man himself - honest, unpretentious, and made with a quiet confidence that never seeks to impress for its own sake. There is a humility to them. They are minimalist wines in the truest sense of the word. Pared down, unadorned, their subtlety the very thing that makes them so amiable and charming. These are not wines built for spectacle. They are soft-spoken and companionable. When young, they invite you back to the glass again and again, and with time in the bottle, they reward your patience.
What strikes me most is their benevolence. Despite the firm tannic architecture that is the hallmark of Benais, there is an openness and tenderness that runs through Stéphane’s entire range. Understated in the best possible way, they ask nothing of you; unpretentious enough to enjoy without overthinking, and rewarding enough to merit the effort you choose to give. In a wine world that too often equates complexity with showmanship, Stéphane's wines are a quiet but compelling argument for restraint.
Cuvée Candide: This wine is from selected parcels across all of the domaine’s lieux-dits and is generally from the estate’s “youngest” vines, 30-35 years on average. This cuvée would be, for all intents and purposes, the domaine’s “entry-level” wine, though it is more concentrated and structured by virtue of the soils where the estate’s vineyards are situated.
Stéphane’s desire for this cuvée is to preserve the fruit profile, and thus he vinifies the wine in stainless steel and it sees a short élevage in tank for about 8 to 10 months. This wine’s tannin profile is typically quite pronounced when young, so he will generally bottle age the Cuvée Candide for about two years before release. While other vignerons are quick to release their vins de soif by summer of the year following harvest, Stéphane’s current release of this cuvée can be two to three vintages behind his neighbours.
With this wine’s concentration and overall tannin structure, it can age exceptionally well. On release, it usually benefits from another 6 months of bottle age and continues to get better over the medium term (three to seven years) but it can easily age much longer. When enjoyed young, consider decanting and serving it alongside the appropriate protein to help soften its firmer tannins.
Cuvée Authentique: This wine is the old vines (vieilles vignes) selection from the same lieux-dits as the Cuvée Candide, typically 50 to 60 years of age on average. Like the Cuvée Candide, Stéphane chooses to vinify and age the wine all in stainless steel to preserve the freshness and purity of the fruit, and it is bottled after about 12 months in tank. It is generally bottle aged closer to three years, so you’ll often see its current vintage a year behind that of Candide.
In my experience, this wine shows the “terroir” in a more pronounced way, in part, I think, from the older vines and also the vinification in stainless steel. It tends to be more linear, with a noticeable vertical acid spine that brings tension and focus in the glass. For me, it is always the most floral of Stéphane’s reds, which I find particularly charming. With time, the textural sensation of the “Benais clay” and the mineral salinity of the tuffeau chalk really start to shine through.
Grand Mont and Deux Monts: First released with the 2009 vintage, Deux Monts historically was an assemblage from Stéphane’s best parcels from the lieux-dits Petit Mont and Grand Mont. The domaine has only bottled the Deux Monts in years that Stéphane deems exceptional at expressing the terroir, which include 2009, 2010, 2014, 2017, 2018, 2019. In “lesser” vintages, the fruit is declassified and goes into the Authentique bottling. In 2020, Stéphane made the decision to transition this cuvée to using his exclusively the 2.3 hectares of vines from Grand Mont, making it now a single vineyard wine (the top parcels from Petit Mont now go into the Cuvée Authentique). It is worth mentioning there is no Grand Mont in 2021.
For both the Deux Monts and Grand Mont, the approach in the cellar has remained consistent. Stéphane prefers slightly longer maceration in large oak vats with aging for about 18 months in 400L older oak barrels. Similarly to the Authentique, this sees a minimum of three years aging in bottle before release.
Stéphane’s Deux Monts and now his Grand Mont are vins de garde that can go toe-to-toe with some of the appellation’s best. Beautifully composed and impressively structured, with concentration, depth and complexity, it is wine that really starts to shine about 10 years from the vintage date and has an almost indefatigable lifespan in the bottle. I wouldn’t hesitate recommending this wine to someone looking to build a Loire Cabernet Franc cellar.
Other Cuvées: One of Stéphane’s newest offerings is his “Pionniers,” which he made for the first time in 2023. This wine is exactly the same as the Cuvée Candide except that it is bottled without added sulphur (sans soufre, as the French would say). The name “Pionniers” translates to “pioneers,” which is a nod to his parents’ decision to approach their work more “naturally” and beginning to farm organically in 1965 - one of the first in the appellation to do so.
Working exclusively with Cabernet Franc in his vineyards, Stéphane has chosen “expand” his range of wines by working creatively with the grape (as opposed to planting Chenin) to produce a still dry rosé, as well as two traditional method sparkling wines, a rosé and a blanc de noir.
Tasting Notes: Recent Vintages
“Pionniers” 2023 Bourgueil (12% abv., SRP 12EUR/$20USD): Subtle, fragrant and earthy, with ripe, dark berry fruits, cedar leaves, and delicate clove spice. A juicy and lip-smacking fruit profile on the palate with plenty of energy and freshness. Velvety tannins, inviting middle palate fruit, with a touch of graphite and black peppercorn through the finish. Welcoming, friendly, immediately accessible and dangerously drinkable.
“Candide” 2023 Bourgueil (12% abv., SRP 11.50EUR): Compared to the Pionniers, the Candide 2023 was a little more introverted on the nose and palate. Notes of black cherry and black raspberry mix with foresty undertones and thyme, rounded out by black and pink peppercorn spice. Succulent, with lively acidity and a plush mid-palate. Fine, chalky tannins wrap around the fruit core giving way to a taut, clayey grip through the finish. Understated, charming and fresh, it will reward with a bit more patience.
“Candide” 2022 Bourgueil (13% abv., SRP 11.50EUR/$18USD): Leads with ripe, dark berries and bramble on the nose with an underlying note of fragrant bouquet garni, cedar and wet stones. A pure and generous palate, with focused acidity complemented by fine, firm, chalky tannins. Structured but approachable, with a round, enveloping, moreish finish. Shows beautiful restraint and vibrancy from the very warm 2022 vintage. Delicious now, and will absolutely improve over medium to long term.
“Authentique” 2023 Bourgueil (12.5% abv., not yet released): Perfumed red fruit (cherry, raspberry) with notes of sous bois, fir, thyme and soft baking spice (nutmeg) through the finish. Concentrated, with lively acidity and firm, velvety tannins that finish with a sinewy, grip. The fleshy and round mid-palate is well-corseted and elongated by the persistent backbone of acidity. Beautifully composed, elegant, balanced. Likely to be released later early 2027, this wine will reward with another 3 to 5 years in the bottle.
“Authentique” 2022 Bourgueil (13% abv., not yet released): Fragrant and floral, the red fruits are in keeping with the 2023 vintage but showing a slightly riper, coulis-like profile. Spicy pink florals (peony, rose) marries with liquorice, autumn leaves and cardamom spice through the finish. Fresh, linear acidity with velvety, firm tannins, extremely approachable for the vintage. Serious, gourmand, generous. In keeping with Stéphane’s style, the 2022 feels understated, while remaining true to this solaire vintage.
“Authentique” 2021 Bourgueil (12% abv., not yet released): A cooler, more classic “Loire” vintage, the wine leads with bright red fruits, peppery spice undertones, notes of violets, mint and chalky minerality. A lighter profile, particularly compared to the 2022 and 2020, but not lacking in flavour or concentration. Vibrant acidity and well-managed, fine-grained tannins work together to build a fine structure. Long and lean, balletic and harmonious. Tuck away and enjoy the generosity of the 2022 and 2020 in the meantime.
“Authentique” 2020 Bourgueil (13% abv., SRP 12.50EUR/$20USD): Fleshy red-fruited nose that leans a little more cherry compote as opposed to fresh-picked cherries, with cedar and rosemary herbaceous undertones and delicate cardamom and white pepper spice. Mouth-watering acidity, beautifully round, velvety tannins that finish with the slightest chalky tug on the tongue. Sumptuously textured, vivid, complete. Drinking marvellously now, and will no doubt go the distance in the cellar.
“Authentique” 2019 Bourgueil (13% abv., SRP 13.50EUR/$22USD): Aromatic and inviting, showing a mix of fresh red and dark fruits, with menthol-like herbals (mint, rosemary) and a touch of pine, and warming cinnamon and Sichuan peppercorn spice through the finish. The acidity is vibrant, the tannins decidedly firm, chalky and not quite as resolved as the 2020. Classic, structured, with a taut, focused mid-palate. Broad-shouldered, but svelte. Hold for a few more years and enjoy the 2020 in the meantime.
“Grand Mont” 2020 Bourgueil (13% abv., SRP 24EUR/$32USD): Pure, lusciously fragrant with dark berry notes and subtle herbal aromas marry with violet florals, bittersweet chocolate, and heady star anise and allspice. Fresh, mouth-watering acidity alongside crushed velvet tannins, the wine has superb concentration and depth signalling the grandeur of this terroir. While impressively structured and built for long-term cellaring, the wine has so much ease and drinkability with its enveloping, fleshy mid-palate. Regal, refined, captivating. I wouldn’t fault you for enjoying this now, but it will probably be even better in a 5 to 7 years time.
“Deux Monts” 2019 Bourgueil (13% abv., SRP 20EUR/$30USD): Showing a touch more “varietal- forward” than the 2020, the 2019 leads with a balanced mix of red and dark berries, with a distinct menthol-edge of mint and rosemary alongside tarragon and a touch of forest floor. The palate shows added layers of dissected violets, liquorice and fragrant quatre épice. Persistent, nervy acidity with firm, tightly-woven tannins, the palate is upright, structured and with a pronounced clayey-mineral impact through the mid-palate. Still a touch unyielding at the moment, particularly compared to the 2020, but I love the verve that comes from this more herbal-forward palate, it just needs a little more time for the tannins to meld with the fruit.
“Deux Monts” 2018 Bourgueil (14% abv., SRP 22EUR/$32USD): From the very warm 2018 vintage, the nose is quite open, red fruit-driven in a way that leans a touch in the fruit leather space, with an exquisite mix of pink and purple florals, soft herbs, and a bit of tertiary development of wet clay, liquorice, graphite and chai spices. A generous palate showcases refreshing acidity and lush, velvety tannins, with a round, voluminous fruit-ladened mid-palate that never feels like too much. Long, deliciously satisfying, this is coming into a lovely drinking window at the moment, and no doubt will continue to improve over the long term.
2024 Cabernet Franc Rosé Méthode Traditionelle Brut (12% abv., SRP 15EUR): Made in the traditional method with 9 months on fine lees, 11 g/L dosage. Leads with pure, lively fruits and florals. Tiny red berries (currants, lingonberry, wild strawberry) with pretty floral undertones of lilac and jasmine. A delicate, creamy palate, with cleansing acidity and a touch of sweetness on the finish. A thirst-quenching, pleasurable sparkling rosé that leads with fruit as opposed to autolytic character. An ideal brunch bubbles candidate!
2023 Blanc de Noir Crémant de Loire Brut (12% abv., SRP 15EUR): Traditional method with 12 months on fine lees and 7g/L dosage. The nose and palate show the fruit complexity that Cabernet Franc can bring in a blanc de noir style with notes of white raspberry, wispy herbs (basil, tarragon), and white florals, alongside a touch of arrowroot biscuit and fresh ginger. Crisp, clean palate with refreshing acidity and a fine, creamy mousse working to give a bit of structural dimension to the palate. Characterful with lovely balance. Drier than the rosé sparkling, this would make a great apéritif with charcuterie.
Tasting Notes: Back Vintages
On my recent visit, Stéphane and I spoke about the 2025 vintage and the reputation and track record of “the 5s,” and I asked about his experiences with vintages ending in 6. Remarking that he had not re-tasted anything from these “6” vintages in recent years, we proceeded to head down to his personal cave beneath his home to see if there were any bottles lying around to taste. The Cabernet Franc gods were on my side that day, and there was a 2016, 2006 and 1996 of the Cuvée Préstige in Stéphane’s cave for us to taste.
“Cuvée Préstige” 2016 Bourgueil (12.5% abv.): Bright, crunchy red fruit profile, with lots of earthy depth, like dried thyme and basil, sandalwood, that is on equal footing with the fruit. Fragrant with rose potpourri florals and piquant, heady spices (Sichuan peppercorn, star anise, chilli flake). Lively acidity provides tension, while the tannins are fine, firm and chalky from start to finish. Lean and lifted, almost feather-like in weight, with a savoury, round fruit core that lingers long on the palate. Drinking well, with vibrancy and elegance.
“Cuvée Préstige” 2006 Bourgueil (12.5% abv.): The most “ligerien” of the three “6” vintages we tasted, this wine was certainly a bit more varietally-forward with pronounced earthier undertones of wild forest berries, potting soil, autumn leaves and a faint hint of potpourri florals and liquorice spice. Refreshing acidity and gauzy tannins weave to create a delicate structure, and a fine, Pinot-like weight and texture. Drinking well, and probably lacking in a little concentration to hold much longer.
“Cuvée Préstige” 1996 Bourgueil (12.5% abv.): From one of the better vintages of the 1990s, this 1996 was absolutely exceptional. Savoury with very pretty underlying herbal character, with added layers of dried cranberries, mushroom, candied orange peel, and heady Christmas spices. This wine was SO transparent to the terroir, you could’ve easily mistaken there to be clay and crushed up chalk in your glass. Beautifully harmonious, and still remarkably energetic, concentrated and with plenty of depth at 30 years of age. Impressive.
3 Rte de Saint-Gilles, 37140 Benais, France
+33 6 68 70 20 77 (tasting by appointment only)
Global Distribution: Current available in the US (45 states), Canada (Ontario, Manitoba), UK, Ireland, Belgium, the Netherlands, Denmark, Norway, Switzerland, Portugal, Japan.