Don't Cry For Me Argentina...

No.3 | Regional Commentary and Recommendations

… The truth is, I’ve never stopped tasting your Cabernet Francs.

---

As I alluded to in the “foreword” to this newsletter last week, part of the reason for launching this was to expand my coverage across all regions and styles within the world of Cabernet Franc. Towards the end of 2023, I noticed that I had not made a video post or had written a post on wines from some regions despite having tasted the wines regularly throughout the year. I posted those wines to my Instagram stories, but as we all know, those are fleeting, and these regions and producers deserve more than that.

Argentina was one of those regions that, sadly, slipped through the cracks.

Of all South American wine producing countries, Argentina has been on my radar the longest and is the one leading the pack as far as Cabernet Franc is concerned. The country has been touting for years that Cabernet Franc was going to be their “next” grape. I remember reading an article back in 2013 - 10 years ago - that Argentinian winemakers were betting on Cabernet Franc as an important part of the country’s future. Like all things in wine, it is takes a long time for even the smallest changes to take effect, but today we are starting to see more and more single varietal examples emerging from the country.

There is currently around 1,450 hectares of Cabernet Franc planted in Argentina. This figure is significantly dwarfed by the 33,000+ hectares of Malbec planted. At less than 1% of all wine grapes planted in the country, Cabernet Franc is still a very small piece of Argentina’s wine landscape. However, with these smaller plantings coupled with Cabernet Franc’s fickle nature in the vineyard and cellar, the wines being produced are generally more "premium” in nature and higher in quality.

The majority of Cabernet Franc is being grown and made in the Uco Valley, most notably in heavily lauded sub-regions like Gaultallary, but also in sub-regions in the cooler (in terms of temperature) San Carlos, in the southern part of the Uco Valley. In my limited tasting encounters with wines from the Agrelo GI in Luján de Cuyo, this is also emerging as an interesting terroir for Cabernet Franc.

Styles can very based on price point, with wines in lower price brackets often being straight forward, easy-drinking examples with less or even no oak influence, and wines at ultra-premium price points being powerful, structured and typically aged in new oak. And, of course, there is everything in between.

I have not yet had the opportunity to visit Argentina, so I am doing my best to wrap my head around this nation and its Cabernet Francs based on the wines I can purchase in Ontario vis-à-vis our government-controlled wine monopoly, which chooses wines for the shelves based on scores, price points, brand, and “ticking a box” stylistically speaking (not to mention favouring those with deep pockets who can invest in merchandising programs). So while I’m excited about Argentina as an emerging Cabernet Franc hot spot, some wines I’ve tasted over the course of the last year have missed the mark for me. These wines tend to lack balance, and are often “overdone” with overripe fruit and/or too much oak, and come across as “just another red wine” rather than exhibiting Cab Franc’s varietal character in tandem with Argentinian sensibilities. But, there is an upside to this. With every bottle tasted, my palate gains more experience, and over time I can more confidently identify great examples of Cabernet Franc that I think are representative of the variety and the place.

Some of my favourite Argentine Cabernet Francs in recent months have been those at less expensive price points, typically $20 to $35. These wines have balanced sugar and phenolic ripenesses, carefully managed use of oak (many being aged in neutral vessels or larger oak), and harmoniously exhibit Cabernet Franc’s freshness, perfume and herbal undertones alongside a riper fruit profile. While there are unquestionably excellent examples of Argentine Cabernet Franc in the ultra-premium category (think: $70-100 retail), for everyday drinking, and even mid-term cellaring, there is a lot of pleasure that can be found in the sub-$35 that is worthy of exploring.

Here are some wines I’ve enjoyed lately in order of retail price (in $CAD), from lowest to highest:

Lui Wines, 2020 Cabernet Franc Reserva, Uco Valley, Mendoza, stated alcohol 13.7% (SRP #21USD)

This was a most pleasant surprise. Coming from the sub-zone of Los Sauces in Tunuyán, this wine is from parcels located at around 1000m above sea level. This wine has lots of appeal on the nose, with a lovely perfume and a mix of red and dark ripe berries, coupled with an intriguing mix of spices like pink peppercorns, sweet paprika with a dash of clove. The herbal notes were subtle, with a little garrigue and cedar, and complemented the fruit nicely. The palate exhibited restraint and finesse, and while ripe, it was not at all overripe. Fleshy and round, with supple velvety tannins, it was medium bodied on the palate and the acidity danced across the tongue from start to finish. It felt like it has Loire-esque character in an Argentine frame. It was well-made but by no means forced. A really charming and honest wine.

Fabre-Montmayou, 2021 Cabernet Franc Reserva, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, stated alcohol 14% (SRP $17USD)

This wine, along with the Riccitelli described below, are among my favourite Argentine Cabernet Francs I tried in 2023. I came across this bottle one day at a random LCBO, enjoyed it that evening, and proceeded to go back the next day and buy the remaining four bottles on the shelf. I also presented this wine at a couple consumer events as a great example of Cabernet Franc from Argentina. This is from predominantly parcels at an elevation of around 950m above sea level in the Agrelo GI in Luján de Cuyo, which is acclaimed for its distinctive clay soils. This is a sophisticated Cab Franc, that exhibits a lot of class and character at this price point. Plush, supple tannins are enveloped by ripe red and dark berries mixed with notes of cocao and baking spices. The herbaceousness comes in towards the back of the mid-palate and on the finish, and it is complemented by nice floral notes as well. All of this gives the wine energy, intrigue and balance. The wine has structure, but lots of drinkability and ease. I will be a repeat customer and seek out future vintages.

Zuccardi, 2020 “Apelacíon Paraje Altamira” Cabernet Franc, San Carlos, Uco Valley, Mendoza, stated alcohol 14% (SRP $22USD)

Sebastián Zuccardi “gets” Cabernet Franc. He seems to know where to plant it, how to grow it and vinify it to get the best out of the grape and place. This wine is coming from parcels at an average elevation of 1100m above sea level in the Paraje Altamire GI in San Carlos - a region where Zuccardi was among the pioneers to first plant vines, once thought too “cold” for viticulture. Sebastián prefers concrete and foudres for Cabernet Franc, which I am quite partial to as well. The nose and palate exhibit ripe red and blue fruit characters, with some plummy notes, and these are complemented by herbs and an underlying mountain-like savouriness and edge. The acidity and tannins create a structure that is ripe yet firm, and while there is some flesh here, it presents more taut and tense than what the nose would suggest. A really characterful and thoughtful wine for the price point. I think it would even impress the person who says “I only drink French.”

El Enemigo, 2018 Cabernet Franc, Gualtallary, Uco Valley, Mendoza, stated alcohol 13.5% (SRP $28USD)

As far as flying the Cabernet Franc flag in Argentina, El Enemigo is the OG. Alejandro Vigil and Adriana Catena built the entire brand around Cabernet Franc, and produce 5 every vintage, including 4 in their ultra-premium “Gran Enemigo” range. Their entry level is coming from select parcels in the Gualtallary sub-zone with an average elevation of 1450m above sea level, and usually contains 8 to 15% Malbec. This wine has a ripe, plush and dense profile, exhibiting dark berries and brambly fruit. Its Cab Franc character comes though with subtle herbal elements, like mint, oregano and bay leaf, coupled with black pepper and graphite. The tannins are ripe, and mouth-filling with a cashmere-like texture and the acidity is fresh and cleansing. Aged in foudres, the wine is full bodied, rich and round, but never heavy or monolithic. It is the sort of wine that I think could convert a Cab Franc hater into a believer. I never hesitate to recommend this wine to those interested in discovering Cabernet Franc from Argentina.

Matias Riccitelli, 2018 “Viñedos de Montaña” Cabernet Franc, Los Chacayes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, stated alcohol 14% (SRP $36USD)

In a short period of time, Matias Riccitelli has quickly established himself as a young winemaker-to-watch with his approach of balancing traditional techniques with a contemporary vision for Argentinian wine. His “Viñedos de Montaña” Cabernet Franc is from two sites in the Los Chacayes GI, ranging in elevation from 1100 to 1300m above sea level. This is an impressive wine. In the glass, what leads is all of the aromas that attracted me to Cabernet Franc from the very beginning: a subtle intermingling of fresh fruits with herbs, purple florals, with energetic varietal spice. Vinified in concrete and aged in foudres, the palate is ripe, juicy and refreshing, but this wine does not skimp on structure. The tannins are uniform, ripe and firm, and in combination with the acidity, it creates a wine with tension and definition, while being enveloped by fleshy fruit. Great balance and persistence from beginning to end. Very approachable now, but there is sufficient concentration here to reward with cellaring.

---

Do you have a favourite Cabernet Franc from Argentina? Recommendations welcome. Let me know in the comments and I will add to my shopping list!