Duemani, 2018 "CiFra" Cabernet Franc, IGP Costa Toscana, Tuscany, Italy
Cab Franc du Jour #52
If I had to identify one individual who is the flag-bearer for Cabernet Franc in Italy, it would unquestionably be Luca d’Attoma. His wine career spans several decades, and he is perhaps best known for his role as consulting oenologist at Le Macchiole in Bolgheri from 1991 to 2015. It was there that his belief in Cabernet Franc as a star variety in Tuscany truly took root. He was instrumental in the gradual transition of one of the estate’s flagship wines, the Paleo Rosso, to 100% Cabernet Franc beginning with the 2001 vintage, a decision that has remained in place ever since.
With a wealth of indigenous varieties to work with in Italy, the choice of Cabernet Franc might seem counterintuitive, but the variety actually has a long history in the country, and in Tuscany specifically. It is believed the grape arrived as a gift from France to Catherine de’ Medici when she married King Henry II in 1533, with the earliest written references to the grape dating to around that time. Today Tuscany is the leading region for Cabernet Franc in Italy, with approximately 700 hectares, representing 11% of all Italian plantings.
Luca and his partner Elena established Duemani in 2001 on a previously uncultivated site chosen specifically with two varieties in mind: Cabernet Franc, Luca’s favourite, and Syrah, Elena’s.
Italy’s Tuscan Coast
The estate is located within the Tuscan Coast IGT appellation, which stretches 379km along the west coast of central Italy, and more specifically in the municipality of Riparbella in the province of Pisa, about 20km north of Bolgheri and 10km from the sea.
At 43.3N, this is a relatively southerly latitude for Cabernet Franc in a European context, though it is worth noting that San Sebastián in the Basque Country (País Vasco) of Spain, widely understood to be the variety’s birthplace, sits at roughly the same latitude. The climate is Mediterranean, but several moderating influences are at play. The proximity to the Tyrrhenian Sea, only 10km away, is significant: the scale of this body of water means its moderating effect on the local microclimate is meaningful in a way that a river like the Loire or Vienne, even at the same distance, simply would not be.
The Duemani vineyards are also situated on the lower slopes of the Poggio di Nocola in the Val di Cecina, flanked by two east-west-oriented mountain ranges that funnel cool sea breezes directly into the vineyard, creating a constant flow of cool air. Elevation, at 200 to 250m above sea level, adds a further cooling influence.
The soils belong to what is known as the Ligurian Domain, formed during the middle Jurassic period approximately 180 million years ago and primarily sedimentary in origin. The key feature for Cabernet Franc is the high proportion of clay, at around 40%, which retains moisture, warms slowly in spring, and remains cooler throughout the growing season than lighter-textured soils. Calcareous rocks and sands distributed throughout the profile contribute to drainage.
The Vineyard & In the Cellar
Luca and Elena planted 7.5 hectares of Cabernet Franc in 2001 at a high density of around 8,400 vines per hectare, encouraging competition between individual plants and helping to manage yields naturally. The vineyards are farmed biodynamically, and the site’s isolation means it is surrounded by considerable biodiversity, with wildflowers and native shrubs throughout the surrounding landscape.
The CiFra is the lifeblood of the estate, its largest-volume production of between 15,000 and 20,000 bottles per year depending on the vintage. The vinification is traditional: 100% destemmed fruit, indigenous yeast, fermentation and aging in cement vats, with a relatively short skin contact of approximately 10 days.
Wine Details
Producer: Duemani
Region: Tuscany, Italy
Appellation: IGP Costa Toscana
Municipality: Riparbella
Soil: Heavy clay (40%) with large calcareous stones and sand from the Middle Jurassic period
Alcohol: 14%