Gabriele Rausse, 2017 Baer Ridge Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Virginia, USA
Cab Franc du Jour #15
Gabriele Rausse is without a doubt the father of modern viticulture in the state of Virginia. He immigrated from his native Veneto in Italy in 1976 and was responsible not only for establishing Barboursville Vineyards, probably the most celebrated winery in the state, but also for setting up over 100 other vineyard sites across Virginia, which is a remarkable legacy. He established his own winery in 1997, and today both of his sons Peter and Tim are involved in the family business.
So why Cabernet Franc, and why Virginia? Virginia’s climate is actually somewhat Bordeaux-like in character, with the moderating influence of the Atlantic and temperatures that run a touch warmer than many expect. The soils are varied, with clay, limestone, and pockets of schist depending on where you are, and it is clearly a happy place for the variety. In fact Cabernet Franc is the number one planted grape variety in the state, which is wonderful news for those of us who love it.
This wine is coming from the Shenandoah Valley, which sits on the western side of the Blue Ridge Mountains. Those mountains act as something of a barrier to the Atlantic’s moderating influence, making the Shenandoah Valley a little cooler and drier than the eastern side of the range. The Bear Ridge Vineyard was planted in 1999, with limestone and clay-driven soils at around 400m above sea level.
On the nose the fruit profile leans toward the sweeter end of the spectrum, with cherry, plum, and even a touch of blueberry, all very pure and ripe rather than tart. There is a beautiful herbaceous undertone that balances that fruit nicely, with cedar wood, tobacco, and a cooling herbal note reminiscent of rosemary. Quite Bordeaux-like in character, actually.
The palate is mouth-watering, with the fruit coming through beautifully and a lovely round texture. The tannins are medium and very velvety, pulling everything together elegantly. This wine is not boisterous or over the top: it has a reserved, precise quality clearly intended to highlight the fruit and the vineyard. There are no hard edges here, just harmony and impeccable balance, and most importantly a real deliciousness factor. I want this with a large piece of medium-rare red meat, frankly. As an introduction to Virginia as a wine-producing region for Cabernet Franc, this is top notch.
Wine Details
Producer: Gabriele Rausse
Region: Virginia, USA
Sub-region: Rockingham County (Shenandoah Valley)
Vineyard: Baer Ridge Vineyard
Soils: Clay-limestone
Alcohol: 13.2%