La Source du Ruault, 2020 Saumur-Champigny
No.43 | What's In My Glass
The Saumur-Champigny appellation is not lacking in star domaines. But it is often the producers that fly under the radar that I find immense joy in discovering, particularly as the wines from the region’s elite estates become increasingly more expensive. One such under-the-radar domaine that I’ve had the pleasure of tasting with on a few occasions now is La Source du Ruault, which is led by seventh generation vigneron Jean-Noël Millon.
Based in Varrains, Jean-Noël is farming about 11 hectares of Cabernet Franc and 2 hectares from Chenin Blanc. After taking over from his father in 1998, Jean-Noël immediately converted their vineyards to organic viticulture, and today also employs the use of biodynamic practices in the vineyard and cellar. He is making a charming range of wines from his parcels, including his cuvée domaine, as well as three cuvée parcellaires from Cabernet Franc: Le Champ Fou, Senseï (from parcels in the lieu-dit Les Poyeux) and La Clos de la Côte. I visited the domaine …