Lieu-Dit, 2019 Cabernet Franc, Santa Ynez Valley, Central Coast, California, USA
Cab Franc du Jour #88
Lieu Dit was launched in 2011 by Santa Barbara native Justin Willett of Tyler Winery and his longtime friend Eric Railsback. The project focuses on Loire varieties, including Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Melon de Bourgogne, and Cabernet Franc, and the affinity for these varieties follows a path familiar to many lovers of the Loire: as prices for Burgundy, the Rhône, and northern Italy have climbed, the wines of the Loire continue to offer immense drinking pleasure and remarkable value.
Santa Barbara County & The Santa Ynez Valley
Today’s wine takes us to southern California, specifically the Santa Ynez Valley in Santa Barbara County. The region is better known for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, with approximately 5,500 acres (2,225 hectares) and 4,700 acres (1,900 hectares) planted respectively. Cabernet Franc, by comparison, accounts for only about 108 acres (44 hectares), but from the examples I have had the chance to taste from this region, it may be one of the most exciting places for the variety in California.
At first glance, the geography would suggest conditions far too warm for Cabernet Franc. The valley sits about 170km northwest of Los Angeles at roughly 34N latitude, a latitude that corresponds across the Atlantic to northern Morocco and Tunisia. But a distinctive shift in the topographic landscape creates a microclimate that dramatically changes the picture.
Along much of California’s coast, the Coastal Mountain Ranges run north to south, blocking Pacific Ocean influence from reaching inland valleys. In this part of southern California, however, those ranges end and the Transverse Ranges begin. Starting at Point Conception and stretching roughly 500km inland, these mountains run on an east-west axis rather than north to south. That orientation creates a series of valleys, including the Santa Ynez, that open directly to the west and the cold Pacific, making this area significantly cooler than much of northern California.
The Santa Ynez Valley is divided into four sub-AVAs, with the Santa Rita Hills furthest west receiving the strongest oceanic influence, best suited to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. As you move inland, temperatures rise at roughly one degree Celsius per mile, and by the time you reach the Happy Canyon sub-AVA in the east, conditions are warm enough for Bordeaux varieties. Moving inland also brings a wider diurnal range: daytime temperatures can reach into the mid-30s Celsius, while evenings drop to around 10C, slowing ripening and preserving natural acidity. The southerly latitude also plays a role: the more intense sunlight is partially offset by shorter days than at more northerly latitudes, causing sugars to accumulate more gradually in the grapes.
The Vineyard
The vineyards for this wine are in the Happy Canyon sub-AVA, about 55km from the Pacific, where the ocean’s influence is present but more moderate than further west. Elevations range from around 213 to 275m above sea level. The wine is drawn from two blocks of Cabernet Franc: one of approximately 4.2 acres planted in 1998 on a more westerly exposure, and a second of about 6 acres planted in 2015 by massale selection on its own roots with a slight southwest orientation. Both blocks sit close to the Santa Ynez River, which provides an additional cooling influence.
The soils feature a light sandy-loam topsoil of around 50cm over a clay subsoil of approximately 70cm, followed by a gravelly clay beneath. The clay layers in the subsoil are particularly important for Cabernet Franc, which does not tolerate drought stress well. The clay retains moisture through dry periods and also contributes to a cooler soil environment that moderates ripening.
In the Cellar
The fruit is hand-harvested, with the majority destemmed but left as whole berries rather than crushed. A significant proportion of whole cluster is also incorporated, running to around 50% in this vintage. Fermentation takes place with indigenous yeast in a combination of open-top stainless steel and oak vessels, with light pump-overs during active fermentation, and total skin contact of approximately two weeks. The wine then ages in ten-year-old French oak barrels for around seven to eight months before bottling.
Wine Details
Producer: Lieu-Dit
Region: Central Coast, California
AVA: Santa Ynez Valley AVA
Vineyard Location: Happy Canyon sub-AVA
Soil: Positas Fine Sandy Loam (50cm), sub-soils clay (70cm) and gravelly clay
Alcohol: 13.0%