Philippe Alliet, 2015 Chinon "Vieilles Vignes"
Cab Franc du Jour #11
Domaine Philippe Alliet was established by Philippe and Claude in 1985, and as of 2005 their son Pierre has joined the domaine as well. They farm 17 hectares in the commune of Cravant-les-Côteaux in Chinon, which is located in the southeastern portion of the Chinon appellation on the north side of the Vienne River. The vineyards are quite close to the river, situated on a beautiful gravelly plateau, and all of the vines are farmed organically.
What is important to note about this producer is the role Philippe played as a champion for a particular style of Chinon in the early 1990s, flying the flag for wines that were concentrated, structured, and built for aging at a time when this was far from the norm in the appellation. It was really his Vieilles Vignes cuvée that cemented Philippe’s reputation in this regard, and it remains the estate’s flagship wine to this day. The wine is made in cement, and the vines average between 65 and 75 years of age, the oldest in the domaine.
On the nose there is a beautiful evolved quality, with pure red-fruited notes of tart red currant and cherry alongside a dried, earthy undertone. The pyrazines come through as a lovely dried herb character, with hints of cedarwood and pencil shavings. What I find particularly captivating is the umami quality running beneath it all, a suggestion of mushroom, a whisper of smoked meat, and a dusting of liquorice. On the palate the fruit is confirmed, with lively acidity and a beautifully fine-knit tannin structure through the mid-palate. The wine is harmonious and graceful, reserved in character yet commanding a quiet presence. It manages somehow to feel both noble and humble at once, and there is an unmistakable sense of intention, purpose, and precision in every sip. This is a wine that clearly comes from somewhere very special, and I am thrilled I opened it today.
Wine Details
Producer: Philippe Alliet
Appellation: Chinon
Commune: Cravant-Les-Côteaux
Lieux-Dits: Various
Soils: Sand and gravel
Alcohol: 13%