Tasting Diaries: February 2026
No.73 | What's In My Glass
February was a very busy month that took me to New York City for the second annual Cab Franc Forward Grand Tasting as well as to France for Wine Paris and some much needed time in my beloved Loire Valley. I tasted A LOT of Cabernet Franc this month. A quick scan of my notes and all told I probably tasted around 500 wines from over twenty-five regions from a dozen or so countries, AND I still look back at the events and tastings I attended and feel like I didn’t see and taste with as many producers as I had hoped. One thing is for certain, there is a lot of enthusiasm around Cabernet Franc right now from all corners of the wine world, which is very exciting to see. It would be impossible to talk about all the wines I tasted this month here, but I’ll do my best to highlight as many as I can.
On February 3rd, forty New York State wineries gathered to showcase over 250 wines from three principle regions as part of the Cab Franc Forward Grand Tasting. I am currently finishing a more detailed article on the event with some of my highlights and observations, but there was an impressive number of really delicious wines on offer that day. I focused my tasting efforts on producers that were new to me, but even there I didn’t see everyone I wanted. Styles ran the gamut from sparkling (blanc de noir and rosé), still rosé and reds of all shapes and sizes. I finally got to taste Sheldrake Point’s 2023 Beta Series Blanc de Cabernet Franc (11.2% abv., SRP $45USD) traditional method sparkling wine. Since its release, I’ve had a number of people tell me it was a must try, and it did not disappoint. Delightfully fresh, floral with lovely varietal character and a soft, silky mousse, it was very well made and styled in a manner that let the Cabernet Franc character shine through. Another Finger Lakes producer that was new to me but I have heard great things about time and time again was Damiani Wine Cellar. I tasted with viticulturalist Phil Davis, who’s tireless work in the vineyard to get Cabernet Franc “right” clearly showed through in their 2024 Barrel Select Cabernet Franc (13.2% abv.) and 2024 Valois Vineyard Cabernet Franc (14.1% abv.), both of which have yet to be released. After my brief time in Long Island last June, I was keen to discover some other producers from across the region, and I was so pleased to try the Sannino Vineyards 2022 Cabernet Franc (13.5% abv., SRP $35USD) and also the Red Hook Winery 2019 Cabernet Franc (14.0% abv., SRP $35USD) (sourced from the Jamesport Vineyard on the North Fork), both leaned in a Bordeaux-inspired style with inviting, plush fruit, well-integrated oak, varietal complexity and elegant tannin structure.
A handful of days after my time in New York, I was off to Wine Paris for the first time. Having previously attended ProWein and Vinexpo (the precursor to Wine Paris) many times throughout my career, I was really impressed with the organization and compactness of Wine Paris. My objective? Simply put, it was to meet and taste with as many Cabernet Franc producers as possible from all corners of the globe. I didn’t get through all of my tasting wish list, but I didn’t do too badly. And long story short, there is a lot of exciting Cabernet Franc being made in the world right now!
South America might be THE continent to watch outside of Europe for the variety at the moment, where there is not only momentum in terms of plantings, but also wines that are being made thoughtfully and with a definite sense of place. I tasted several examples from Uruguay, Chile and Argentina (sadly, I didn’t come across any at the Wines of Brazil stand), and very good wines are being made across all styles and price points.
Uruguay’s plantings of Cabernet Franc are far less than Chile and Argentina, but the wines I tasted highlighted the cooler, more maritime influenced climate, and offer a bridge between a classic “European” expression of the variety and a more fruit-forward example we might typically associate with “New World” wines. The Braccobosca 2024 Gran Ombú Cabernet Franc (14.0% abv., SRP $78USD) from Canelones is consistently one of the country’s top examples of the variety and one of my favourites from what I tasted from Uruguay. (I did a tasting video on the 2019 if you’re interested in learning more about this wine.) I also enjoyed the Viña Progreso 2024 Overground Cabernet Franc (14.0% abv., SRP $18-20USD), which is also from the region of Canelones.
From Chile, I have observed that Cabernet Franc as a star variety isn’t being embraced everywhere by everyone, rather there are “specialists” that have found over time that the grape has adapted well to their unique terroir and are showcasing it more prominently in their range. A perfect example would be icon winery Viña VIK in the Millahue sub-region of Cachapoal. In speaking with CEO Gastón Williams at Wine Paris, he shared with me that they have seen how well Cabernet Franc is thriving in their sites and have since transitioned their top flagship red (which retails for around $175USD) from being a Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant blend to Cabernet Franc-dominated as of the 2021 vintage. Both the 2021 VIK (14.5% abv., SRP $160USD) and 2022 VIK (14.5% abv., SRP $175USD), with 77% and 79% Cabernet Franc in the blend, respectively, showed impressive concentration and depth, with an elegant, restrained structure. Their 2023 “A” Cabernet Franc (14.0% abv., SRP $30USD) was also beautifully done.
The story of Cabernet Franc in Argentina is being written as we speak and it is a fascinating one to watch. Plantings of the variety are increasing exponentially and when walking the aisles of Wine Paris, nearly EVERY SINGLE producer from Mendoza present at the fair had at least ONE single varietal Cabernet Franc on offer. There was so much Argentinian Cabernet Franc available to taste, it was impossible to taste it all. Some highlights included the wines from Fabre-Montmayou, both their 2024 Reserva Cabernet Franc (14.0% abv., $15USD) from Luján de Cuyo and the Alta-Yarí 2024 Reserva Cabernet Franc (14.5% abv., SRP $22USD) from Gualtallary; I loved what I tasted from Casarena in Luján de Cuyo, both their 2024 Estate Cabernet Franc (13.5% abv., SRP $18USD) and the 2022 Lauren Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc (14.3% abv., SRP $35USD); and also from Luján de Cuyo, but more specifically the sub-region of Agrelo, Pulenta’s 2023 Cabernet Franc (14.0% abv., SRP $25USD) and 2021 Gran Cabernet Franc (14.0% abv., SRP $50USD) were both superb. The enthusiasm for Cabernet Franc has even inspired a new three-wine range from Corbeau Wines as part of their “Mad Bird” brand, which features a blanc de noir, rosé and red Cabernet Franc, all from the same parcel of vines planted in Maipú in Eastern Mendoza, the only thing that changes is the harvest date and the approach to winemaking. What impressed me the most about what I tasted from Argentina is the majority of wines are unoaked or vinified and aged in neutral vessels, and even at the super premium level, the use of new oak tends to be more restrained making an effort to highlight the fruit and character of the grape. From what I’ve tasted, the quality of Argentinian Cabernet Franc is very good and we’re probably just seeing the tip of the iceberg of what the country is capable of with the variety.
From North America, there was not as much Cabernet Franc being presented as I had hoped. (The exception being the New York Wines stand, which I passed by just to say a quick hello!) Most of the producers from California were presenting the benchmark grapes and wines from their respective regions, though I was delighted to taste the Trois Noix 2022 Cabernet Franc (14.0% abv., SRP $90USD) from Napa Valley made by founder/winemaker Jaime Araujo, which offered the best of what I would call Napa “typicity” and Cabernet Franc character. Two other Cabernet Francs of note came from the Pacific Northwest. From Two Mountain, who are based in the Rattlesnake Hills AVA of the Yakima Valley, an emerging AVA for Cabernet Franc, their 2023 Cabernet Franc Reserve (14.0% abv., SRP $30USD) was very nicely done. I also had the pleasure of meeting Bree Stock MW of Limited Addition Wines in the Willamette Valley, Oregon, who is so passionate about Cabernet Franc that she is making it a focus of her winemaking project producing several different expressions of the variety each vintage. She was pouring her 2023 Cabernet Franc Field Blend (13.0% abv., SRP $36USD), which was a great introduction to her work with Cabernet Franc, and I hope to do a proper feature on Bree and the project in the coming months.
From elsewhere around Europe, there was no denying the excitement around Cabernet Franc in Tuscany. Several producers from Bolgheri and the surrounding Tuscan hillsides were pouring a 100% Cabernet Franc, many of which were recent additions to a winery’s range, having made the decision to bottle a single varietal Cabernet Franc just in the last five or so years. The best examples offered a Goldilocks approach to capturing the ripe and sunny character of the fruit, letting Cabernet Franc’s varietal character show through in a way that showcased a sense of place, all while having balanced alcohols and a restrained approach to extractions and aging in oak. A couple favourites included the inaugural offering from Castello di Bolgheri, the 2021 Bolgheri Superiore “Barnica” (14.5% abv., SRP 200EUR) and also from around the hillsides of Pisa the Podere la Chiesa 2022 IGT Toscana Cabernet Franc (14.5% abv.). From Northeast Italy, Russiz Superiore continues to excel with the grape in the hillsides of Collio, and their 2022 Cabernet Franc DOC Collio (13.0% abv., $38USD/27EUR) is fragrant, spicy and herbal with plush, juicy fruit and bright acidity.
More and more single varietal Cabernet Franc is being produced in Bordeaux, and there was probably much more on offer at Wine Paris than I was able to taste, but I did have a few on my radar that I wanted to try. From Famille Bouyer in the commune of St-Christophe-des-Bardes in St-Emilion, their La Cure 2023 St-Emilion Grand Cru “Bouchet” (14.5% abv., SRP 40EUR) delivered lush, enveloping fruit, classic undertones of cedar, tobacco and violets, with velour-like tannins and focused acidity. From the satellite appellation of Lussac St-Emilion, Audren Dubreuil of Château de la Grenière first produced their “Franc Pour Cent” in 2021 as a way of highlighting and honouring the family’s small parcel of 100-year-old Cabernet Franc vines. The 2024 Lussac St-Emilion “Franc Pour Cent” (13.5% abv., SRP 22EUR) was absolutely delicious with a gorgeous floral and herbal perfume, taut, velvety tannins, and a beautifully refined structure. I also had a terrific tasting with Louis Gadais, Maître de Chai at Château Jean Faure in St-Emilion, who’s Grand Vin is one of a handful of St-Emilion Grand Cru wines that has historically always been Cabernet Franc-dominant. These wines will be featured in a more in-depth article in the coming months. Finally, I was thrilled to discover the Cabernet Franc-focused range from Jurançon-native and up-and-coming Bordeaux vigneron Hugues Laborde, who is harnessing his passion for Cabernet Franc to showcase the diversity of terroirs and soils across the regions of Entre-Deux-Mers, Fronsac and St-Emilion. I am also working on an in-depth feature on these wines to shine a light on Hugues’s story and work with the grape.
As I am in the Loire regularly throughout the year, I didn’t taste much from the region at Wine Paris, though I did have an opportunity to attend a dinner hosted by Chinon’s Domaine de la Chapelle at Yannick Alléno’s restaurant at the Pavillon Ledoyen. The dinner featured the estate’s current offering of whites and reds, include the 2024 Chinon “Les Joueurs” (12.0% abv., SRP 16EUR), 2023 Chinon “Les Lutteurs” (12.0% abv., SRP 24EUR) and 2023 Chinon “Les Bâtisseurs” (12.5% abv., SRP 40EUR). As the domaine has transitioned under new owner and real estate developer Laurent Dumas, and also recently bringing on Romain Guiberteau as consultant, this is a domaine to watch in the years ahead. I had a more thorough visit of the domaine with Chef de Culture Cédric Monroy planned for the following week, but sadly due to excessive rains across the Loire, the Vienne overflowed its banks and the domaine was inaccessible the day of my scheduled visit, so a more in-depth profile on this estate will be prioritized for when I get back to the Loire later in the spring. (I did a video feature on the domaine and their 2023 Les Lutteurs last year for those that are eager to learn more.)
Following Wine Paris, I was in the Loire for a little over a week and had several tasting visits with producers from across the region, including Le Petit Saint Vincent and Château de Villeneuve in Saumur-Champigny, Domaine Dozon in Chinon, Le Clos du Vigneau/Domaine des Vallettes in St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, and Maison Audebert et Fils, Domaine Stéphane Guion and Lamé-Delisle-Boucard in Bourgueil. I’ll be writing profiles on the domaines and wines in the coming months, but you can check out my Instagram highlights for a preview in the meantime. On my last two trips to the Loire, I have also tasted a number of 2025s from producers across the region, so I am writing a little “preview” of the vintage at the moment as well.
A couple other wines of note I enjoyed this month include Domaine Moly’s 2024 Saumur-Champigny “Les Sybarites” (12% abv., SRP $28USD/20EUR), which I first tasted with Etienne at the domaine and then later in the week over a few days. Newly released, the 2024 does benefit from a bit of oxygen to let it open up, but when it does, this wine is a knockout. Showing impressive concentration for the vintage, it leads with bright pink and purple florals and succulent fruit, continuing with firm, chalky tannins and plenty of stuffing, and concluding with a nervy, herbal, piquant finish. A touch austere now, it will reward with time in the cellar, but what a beautifully made wine, particularly from a challenging vintage like 2024. It proves the old adage that the combination of vigneron(ne) and vineyard will trump vintage more times than not. (I wrote a feature on Domaine Moly in May 2024 if you’re interested to learn more about the domaine.)
From another up-and-coming vigneron, Aurélien Revillot’s 2023 Bourgueil “Sur les Hauts” (12.5% abv., SRP $25USD/20EUR), which I picked up at Enfin du Vin, a terrific caviste in Candes-St-Martin. From parcels on the slopes predominantly in Benais in Bourgueil, the 2023 is absolutely delicious right from the pop of the cork - pure, fragrant with just the right amount of Cabernet Franc earthiness. Lush blue and red fruits, with notes of tarragon, basil, rich humus, pink peppercorn and cardamon, the silky tannins are beautifully enveloped by succulent fruits, finishing with persistent, mouthwatering acidity. Aurélien’s approach with Cabernet Franc leans a touch more modern with polish and refinement without feeling pretentious or too intricate, and the 2023 Sur les Hauts highlights this balance of precision and approachability. (You can learn more about Aurélien’s story and the 2018 vintage of this wine here.)
Phew! I don’t know about you, but I’m thirsty! That’s it for February. Thank you so much for reading and your continued support. As you’ve read, there is a lot in the pipeline, so I’ll be gracing your inbox again soon.
Wow!!! An amazing and comprehensive report! Thanks!!!