Tasting Diaries: July 2026
Keeping well-hydrated in the Pays de la Loire!
We are officially halfway through summer. As I’m sure everyone reading this is aware, it has been an unbearably hot and dry summer across Western Europe - and the Loire Valley has been no exception. The oppressive heatwave that persisted at the end of June was followed up about a week later by another heatwave that saw temperatures push upwards of 40C again, though for only four days this time rather than seven. There has also been no rain. Thursday morning, for the first time since the end of May, some rain fell across the region. The vignerons I have spoken with have said anywhere from 3mm to 7mm fell in the Central Loire. Not a lot in the grand scheme of things, but still welcomed nonetheless.
The extreme heat and drought stopped the physiological developed of the vines for a period of time, blocking véraison from kicking off, which has only just started in recent days in most communes and appellations. All of the early progress observed at the beginning of June has since evaporated and the vintage now is looking more on track with 2025, with harvest for reds likely beginning mid-September, though there is still a long way to go before that is certain. Vignerons are desperately praying for a bit of rain just to give the vines a bit of relief. While July 2025 saw periodic showers, the lack of rain in the last two months means that the berry size in most parcels is very small, so yields will likely be lower than the already low yields experienced in 2025.
Looking ahead, the forecast seems to change every few hours, but it appears the warm and dry conditions should continue to persist into early August at least, with no rain the forecast, though temperatures looking more “normal” for summer. A good summer for beachgoers, less so for farmers.
Now, with the month’s weather report out of the way, let’s get into some of my tasting highlights from this past month. And suffice it to say, I’ve been staying well-hydrated!
When I’m in the Loire for an extended period of time, I don’t usually have a set plan as to the vignerons I intend to visit. It is often that I’ve tasted a particular wine in passing which prompts me to want to visit a domaine, or in some cases, it is the vigneron(ne) that reaches out to invite me to the domaine. Either way, these domaine’s will receive a feature article at some point in the coming months, so this serves as a little preview.
Anjou-Saumur
Calvez-Bobinet (Saumur-Champigny): Despite seeing these wines seemingly everywhere in the market, I had not yet paid a visit to Dampierre-sur-Loire’s Calvez-Bobinet. Admittedly, the day I was at the domaine was to actually catch-up with up-and-coming garagiste vigneron Pascal Carole, but it turned into an informal introduction to the wines of Émeline Calvez and Sébastien Bobinet. I didn’t have my tablet with me to record notes, so a follow-up visit will come in August before harvest gets underway.
Château du Bourg Joly (Anjou): Technically located in Anjou, this estate is actually a stone’s throw from Le Puy-Notre-Dame with a terroir that is more similar with that of Saumur than what we typically think of when we think of Anjou. The proprietors are Uzbekistan-native Inessa Grouvel Varchavskaia and her husband Menno Grouvel, both retired geologists whose passion for geology, ecology and wine brought them to the Loire. Vigneronne Inessa farms a 0.7-ha parcel of Cabernet Franc vines planted on a butte of Cenomanian marl from which she makes a rosé and two reds, all three of which have a beautiful through-line of perfume and texture.
Domaine de l’Ours Bleu (Saumur/Saumur-Champigny): I visited this domaine last summer, but the Directeur d’Exploitation Jérôme Baillargeau was on holiday, so I was eager to get back to this estate to revisit some of the wines with a bit more technical detail. With parcels in Montsoreau, Fontevraud, and St-Cyr-en-Bourg, the estate is focusing on single-vineyard wines that see long élevage in bottle (3 to 4 years) before release, a decision that reflects owner Julien Contant’s love of older Cabernet Franc. Each of the single vineyard expressions feels very true to the place with impressive purity, depth and concentration. Their blanc de noir is also another gem in this style I’ve come across from the Loire.
Domaine des Sables Verts (Saumur-Champigny): I first visited Domaine des Sables Verts in October 2024, and have had the pleasure of enjoying the wines of this estate both here in the Loire and at home. Young proprietors Caroline Meurée et Hervé Malinge are working carefully and intentionally across their 10 hectares to craft beautiful range of Cabernet Francs. I was very impressed by their range from the challenging 2024 vintage, which are expressive and richly aromatic. A rising star domaine in Saumur-Champigny.
Touraine
Domaine Béatrice et Pascal Lambert (Chinon): I first visited this domaine in May of 2022, and while I’ve tasted the wines since then at annual trade salons, it is a crime that I haven’t been back to visit the domaine in four years. I had a terrific tasting with Commercial Director Éric Taunay focusing on their cuvées parcellaires, which are essential tasting for anyone interested in exploring the various soil expressions from across the Chinon appellation. I find the wines to be beautifully transparent of their terroirs and highlight the diversity and potential of the Chinon appellation.
Domaine Beauséjour (Chinon): Situated in Panzoult, this jewel of a domaine was purchased by Domaine Bélargus’s Ivan Massonnat in 2022. When I first visited in the spring of 2024, there was still much to be decided about the direction of the domaine and how their inaugural 2023 vintage was going to be blended, bottled and presented to the market. But one thing was certain, Ivan’s vision was lofty and long term. On my recent visit, I was excited to see the direction the domaine has gone in, deciding on a range of five wines from across their 20 hectares of vines, four of which are slated for release in early 2027, with the estate’s flagship, the Cuvée Beauséjour, to be released in 2028. If Ivan’s work at Belargus is an indication, there is lots to look forward to here.
Domaines Baudry-Dutour (Chinon/Bourgueil): With six domaines under the Baudry-Dutour umbrella and a strong distribution presence in France and abroad, I have been meaning to pay this estate a visit for quite sometime. Jean-Martin Dutour, former president of the Syndicate of the Vignerons of Chinon, is a fount of knowledge, particular on the business side of making and selling Loire Valley Cabernet Franc, so it was a pleasure to spend some time with him going through the wines and “talk shop” so to speak about the state of the industry. The back vintages of Château de la Grille we tasted were a cherry on top of the sundae!
Teyras de Grandval (Chinon): I have long been a fan of the wines of Domaine des Closiers since my first tasting with proprietor Anatole de la Brosse in February 2023. When I learned that he was doubling-down on his investment in the world of Loire Valley Cabernet Franc with the purchase of Domaine Jaulin Plaisantin in Cravant-les-Côteaux, I could barely contain my excitement. The new domaine, Teyras de Grandval, features 12 hectares of organically farmed vines and a newly constructed chai, which was finished completion in spring of 2026. The wines feature the same degree of rigour and precision as Anatole’s range from Saumur-Champigny, with an undeniable Chinon signature.
Famille Cognard Vignerons (St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil/Bourgueil): I’ve tasted the wines from this domaine before at the annual trade salons and at the Maison des Vins de Bourgueil, but had not had the opportunity to visit. I’m delighted to have finally made the effort because there is so much to love about the wines that Estelle and her team are crafting. And as a lover of older Loire Cabernet Franc, I was thrilled to see that the estate makes available to purchase wide selection of library wines from select vintages dating back to the 1970s making it a must-visit for anyone who may have a special occasion deserving of a magnum of 1982 St-Nicolas-de-Bourgeuil.
Finally, just days before the catastrophic wildfires began to take over the western Gironde region, I had planned a visit to Paradise Rescued, a tiny domaine in the hamlet of Cardan about 30km southeast of Bordeaux. Cabernet Franc is central to this 1-ha domaine’s identity, representing about 2/3 of the estate’s plantings. I first visited in 2023, and I think that proprietor David Stannard and his team have really started to hit their stride since their first vintage in 2010. More on David’s journey and this estate is a feature article in the coming months.
Apart from my visits with vignerons, here are some other wines I’ve enjoyed in recent weeks.
Château du Petit Thouars, 2023 Chinon “Les Georges” (13.0% abv., SRP $27.00USD/12EUR): Pure, fragrant and not shy on the classic Cabernet Franc varietal character, with plenty of dark forest berry fruits, cedar and spruce undertones with a handful of fresh thyme and dried mint. Delightfully savoury and expressive in the glass. The palate is vibrant with mouth-watering acidity with added notes of black peppercorn and graphite to complement a blackcurrant juice fruit-forward core. The velvety tannins finish firm and taut, giving this wine some good structure for those that wish to cellar it for the medium term. Fresh, balanced, deliciously spicy through the finish, this wine overdelivers on complexity and character. Probably my favourite cuvée of the estate’s range.
Domaine de la Chance, 2023 “Midi-Minuit” Pétillant Naturel (VDF, 12% abv., 18EUR): A blanc de noir of Cabernet Franc with 30 months on lees. Delightfully perfumed leading with floral undertones of white lilac and jasmine, supported by notes of white currant, white raspberry and wild strawberry. Fresh and inviting, with a delicate autolytic character of arrowroot cookie and a touch of blanched almond. The palate is lively, with a fine, creamy mousse and additional notes of candied ginger, fennel frond and a touch of acacia honey. Vinous, very pretty, layered and gastronomic, making it something I’d love to enjoy alongside a refined, sashimi-forward omakase dinner.
Arnaud Lambert, 2021 Saumur “Tue-Loup” (13.5% abv., SRP $35USD/24EUR): From a single parcel in Brézé, "Tue-Loup” in a step up from the cuvée Mazurique in the range from the estate and sees a bit of aging in older barrels. The 2021 is showing beautifully at the moment with blue and dark fruited undertones (wild blueberry, mulberry), with foresty depth, twiggy herbs, cured black olive, rose perfume and a melange of exotic spices (cardamon, star anise). The depth and demure presence on the nose carries forward on the palate with crisp, persistent acidity, linen-like tannins that weave a fine, elegant structure around a sweetly fruited, enveloping core. An understated, nuanced beauty. This is probably the cuvée from Arnaud Lambert I am least familiar with and this wine makes me want to revisit it more often.
Clotilde Legrand, 2011 Saumur-Champigny “Les Rogelins” (13.5% abv., SRP 35EUR): The top cuvée parcellaire from Clotilde Legrand is a parcel located just a few steps from the chai in Varrains and sees upwards of 4 years in oak barrels (1/3 new) followed by very long bottle aging - one of Clotilde’s non-negotiables. When I visited the domaine last summer, the 2011 vintage was her current release of this cuvée. Impressive depth of perfume, it is impossible to not be captivated by this wine’s aromatic profile. Red and dark fruits (blueberry, blackcurrant, sour cherry) that are leaning in a slightly dried space, with earthy undertones (tobacco, mint, rosemary, bay leaf), graphite, dried lavender, jasmine, star anise and black olive tapenade. The perfume carries forward on the palate, with cleansing acidity and impeccably fine, velvety tannins with plenty of concentration and plush fruit that makes the palate experience feel beautifully luxurious. Fresh and brimming with lots of life ahead of it, the wine is layered, contemplative and also deeply satisfying. Easily one of best wines I’ve tasted year to date.
Olga Raffault, 2024 Chinon Rosé (12.5% abv., SRP $22USD/10EUR): A summer isn’t complete without my Olga Raffault rosé! Sadly I missed out on the 2025, but I was able to snag the very last 6-pack of the 2024 from the domaine just a couple weeks ago. A extra year in the bottle and this wine hasn’t missed a beat. Fresh and floral with notes of Rainer cherry, white raspberry, jasmine, rosewater, cardamon and white pepper. Juicy with crisp acidity, beautifully refreshing with a hint of grapefruit pith bitterness on the finish. Elegant, classic, pure pleasure. A benchmark expression of Cabernet Franc rosé that is a joy to drink.
Domaine de la Lande, 2025 Bourgueil Rosé (12.5% abv., SRP 8EUR/bottle): When I first tasted this wine, I immediately thought that this was a wine I would love to have on tap at all times this summer. As if my prayers were answered, it turns out it was available in 5L bag-in-box from the domaine for 24EUR - my #roséallday summer is complete! Notes of delicate strawberries and cream, white peach, lilac and rose, pink peppercorn and a hint of chervil. Clean and refreshing, with soft but persistent acidity and a touch of creaminess in the mid-palate. Generous, fruity, with some balancing salinity through the finish. Perfect for apéro but equally as delicious with a seasonal veg-forward quiche, salade niçoise, tomato watermelon salad with feta, or grilled chicken. I’m already partway through my second BIB and August has only just begun!
Thanks, Allison. This is so wonderfully comprehensive. Love seeing the Clotilde Legrand reviewed so well. I too love that wine.