Tasting Diaries: September 2025
No.66 | What's In My Glass
Maybe I’m not the only one, but September always feels a bit like January, though it seems to conversely fly by at break-neck speed. We had superb weather in Southern Ontario this month, with lots of sunshine and summer-like temperatures, which naturally influenced my Cab Franc imbibing! Here are some highlights from recent weeks.
Fjord Vineyards, 2023 Cabernet Franc Rosé, Hudson River Region, New York (12.7% abv., SRP $22USD): Winemaker Matthew Spaccarelli is among New York State’s most enthusiastic Cabernet Franc champions making several styles of the grape at both his own winery, Fjord Vineyards, and as winemaker at Benmarl Winery in Marlboro. His 2023 Cab Franc Rosé is fine example of the style that really highlights the bright, beautiful, naturally high acidity that the wines from the cooler, more marginal climate of the Hudson Valley can display. Made by direct press, the wine shows citrus-y and red fruit notes on the nose and palate, with a mix of lime zest, blood orange juice, red currant and Rainer cherry. Cab Franc’s signature herbaceous undertones come through with notes of lemon thyme, jasmine and lilacs. Fragrant, zesty and aromatic, with a delightful uplifting energy, the wine is light bodied, crisp, clean, immensely refreshing with just a touch of creaminess on the finish. A pretty and pleasurable rosé. I think poached shrimp and green goddess dressing/dip would compliment this wine beautifully.
Domaine des Closiers, 2021 Saumur-Champigny “Les Closiers” (13.0% abv., SRP $35USD): If you’ve been following me for some time now, you will no doubt know how much I adore the wines from Domaine des Closiers. It has been several months since I last tasted this 2021 “entry-level” Saumur-Champigny, and as is the case with so many of the great Loire 2021 reds right now, this wine has entered a delicious drinking window. Pure, focused, with pristine blue and red fruited notes of raspberry, wild blueberry and red currant, underpinned by aromatics of lilacs, violets, basil and tarragon. Lively, cleansing acidity weaves seamlessly with silky tannins, the wine has filled out nicely and put on a bit of flesh with time in the bottle. Harmonious with impressive concentration and depth from what is often consider a lighter, more “delicate” vintage, this wine is a masterclass in purity, precision and finesse.
Antoine Sanzay, 2022 Saumur-Champigny “La Paterne” (13.0% abv., SRP $30USD): Another “entry-level” Saumur-Champigny that punches above its weight class, Antoine Sanzay’s domaine wine is from a selection of parcels from around Dampierre-sur-Loire, Varrains and Chacé. The 2022 vintage was the polar opposite of 2021, and this wine certainly displays the hallmarks of a sunny, warm vintage with a riper fruit profile and herbal notes I often associate with these types of vintages. Forest-y aromas of cedar leaves and wood mix with Mediterranean-like notes of wild mint and eucalyptus, but these take a backseat to the lush, sumptuous red and dark fruits on the nose and palate. Mouthwatering acidity provides freshness and tension, while the ripe, plush tannins give way to a fine, chalky firmness through the finish, with the mid-palate revealing added layers of succulent florals, sweet tobacco and fresh churned earth. Structured, with regal, warm vintage confidence, this is a suave, contemporary Saumur-Champigny that will continue to reward with additional cellaring.
Cave Spring, 2023 Estate Cabernet Franc, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara, Ontario, Canada (13.5% abv., $22CAD): For those that are not familiar with Cave Spring, this estate is one of the Niagara Peninsula’s oldest family-run wineries and is among the region’s most respected producers. From their namesake Cave Spring Vineyard on the Beamsville Bench, the latest release of their Estate Cabernet Franc is brimming with fragrant, Franc-forward aromas of sweet-tart cherry, raspberry and cranberry mixing with sage, thyme, mint and spruce tips. The fresh and inviting palate is carried by sprightly acidity and fine, linen-like tannins, with a silky mid-palate that has plenty of juicy fruit and green peppercorn spice elongating the finish. Digeste, companionable, and characterful, at this price point, this is a fine value from Ontario that will elevate any mid-week meal and have you running back to the winery (or LCBO) for more.
Susana Balbo “Crios” 2022 Cabernet Franc, Mendoza, Argentina (14.0% abv, SRP $18USD): It makes me happy to see that the LCBO is embracing Argentinian Cabernet Franc with what seems like new releases every couple of months with the latest from Argentinian wine royalty and trailblazer Susana Balbo. Coming from select sites in Luján de Cuyo and the Uco Valley, out of the gate, this wine is supremely inviting with riper fruit, but with plenty of purity and freshness, coupled with just the right amount of varietal character to draw you in. Notes of cassis, black raspberry and dried goji berry mix with aromas of oregano, cypress and black pepper spice. Fresh, balancing acidity and velvety, elegantly-managed tannins give way to additional layers of dark chocolate, chilli flake and cinnamon. Full bodied, but with measured restraint and balanced freshness for added drinkability, this is a deliciously approachable, smooth Cabernet Franc that would make a fine introduction to the variety for someone who tends to prefer voluminous, riper reds or if you love a sumptuous red to curl up with as the nights get cool.
Yannick Amirault, 2023 Bourgueil “Côte 50” (13.0% abv., SRP $25USD): Vintage after vintage, Domaine Yannick Amirault remains in the upper echelon of Bourgueil domaines with a devoted fan base around the globe. Their Côte 50 is somewhat of a “house wine” for me, and the 2023 is lip-smackingly good. Dark fruited, with notes of blackcurrant and black cherry, and herbal aromas of cedar leaves, evergreen shrubbery, rosemary and sage, and a distinctive underlying peppery character reminiscent of espelette pepper. The palate displays juicy, cleansing acidity with fine, sandy tannins, and a divine silky mid-palate experience. Plush, fleshy, with superb drinkability, this wine shows beautiful polish, density and refinement, and sets the bar for top-tier, early-drinking examples of Bourgueil. You can’t go wrong with this one.
Ending on a more personal note…
The year was 2001. While attending the University of Guelph for my undergraduate degree, I decided to venture out to my local Chapters bookstore (think: Barnes & Noble, for my American friends) to procrastinate from having to study for an exam or complete some sort of boring, albeit necessary, assignment. After grabbing a cappuccino from Starbucks, I began to circle the magazine rack looking for some “light” reading material to keep me from the more important things I should’ve been doing. Having always been a “dog person,” the now-extinct Dogs in Canada magazine caught my eye - and what better way to procrastinate than look at pictures of dogs! While thumbing through the pages, I landed on a page with a breed I had never heard of, the Gordon Setter. Described as confident, resolute and affectionate, and of Scottish ancestry I might add (just like me!), I decided right then and there that when the time was right for me to get a dog, I was going to get a Gordon Setter.
And, as 2025 seems to be the year of the universe delivering me unexpected gifts, exactly one month ago, some twenty-four years later, I have welcomed a young, furry creature into my life.
Gordon is a fast learner, and we are now starting to settle into a routine that balances potty breaks, walks, cuddles and Cab Franc Chronicles activities! And with the fifth anniversary of this project on the horizon, I’m working on some new and exciting ideas for content, articles and videos for the weeks and months ahead. So there is lots to look forward to.
Thank you, as always, to everyone for reading/watching. I am deeply grateful for your continued enthusiasm and support.
Fantastic set of reviews. I’ve shied away from the La paterne in favor of Sanzay’s Poyeux but now must try. And am really motivated to find a few Argentinian cab francs. But most importantly, Wow, your Gordon is gorgeous. Congrats!!!