There's a Cab Franc for that!

No.30 | What's In My Glass

We have reached peak summer in the Northern Hemisphere! The sun is shining, we are dining al fresco with family and friends, grilling season is in full swing, a bounty of the best local produce is available, and I am reminded how versatile Cabernet Franc is when it comes to wine styles and food pairings. This grape is capable of producing still and sparkling rosés, light and juicy styles of reds, fuller bodied reds, and everything in between. The grape’s inherent underlying savoury and herbaceous undertones allows it to pair seamlessly with a wide variety of foods. Whether your summer eating regime is about big, vibrant salads, a smörgåsbord of grilled proteins, a parade of seasonal veggies in all of their forms, or a combination there of, I am convinced there is a Cab Franc out there that will not only pair well with your meal of choice, but elevate the dish and the experience to a whole new level.

Here is a selection of Cabernet Francs I’ve been enjoying this summer and what I’ve paired them with.

Domaine Guiberteau, 2023 Saumur Rosé (12.5% abv, SRP $25USD): Romain Guiberteau’s first foray into the world of rosé was with the 2021 vintage, and when I was in the Loire in the spring of 2022, I snagged a bottle at the domaine to bring home to try. Suffice it to say, I was instantly smitten and have continued to seek this out each vintage since. The wine in the glass immediately has an air of seriousness about it, while not taking itself too seriously. A fragrant yet understated nose of white peach, wild strawberry and rhubarb mingle with notes of lilac, lemon thyme and citrus oil, which are complemented by additional hints of sea spray and cardamon pod on the palate. The palate focuses with sprightly acidity with a touch of tannin in the middle palate giving a pleasant tactile sensation and anchoring the palate. Layered, linear, thoughtful, precise. For anyone that appreciates a contemplative rosé.

Pairs well with: Summer’s ultimate salad-as-a-meal: Salade Niçoise. With all due respect to the pale pink quaffers from Provence, a salad with complex layers of seared tuna (my preference, but seared salmon or trout could work), boiled new potatoes and green beans, jammy eggs, olives, and an herby dressing calls for a serious rosé with a bit more substance and an herbaceous edge. And the Guiberteau rosé ticks all the boxes for me here.

Similar wines to try: There is a superb selection of dry rosés from the Loire that could work here like Thibaud Boudignon’s 2023 Rosé de Loire from Anjou, the Yannick Amirault 2022 Bourgueil 'Rosé d’Equinoxe,’ or Olga Raffault’s or Bernard Baudry’s 2023 Chinon Rosé (two of my favourites from this region). If Cab Franc rosé isn’t your thing (no judgement here!), consider a cool vintage, early-drinking Saumur-Champigny with a slight chill, like the Château de Villeneuve 2021 Saumur-Champigny.

Domaine des Galloires, 2023 Cabernet d’Anjou ‘Belle Rivière’ (11% abv, 26g/l RS, SRP $17USD): From seventh generation family estate Domaine des Galloires, this is a classic example of Cabernet d’Anjou - a sweet rosé that typically has 10 to upwards to 40g/l residual sugar. While not as popular as it once was, when made well with a strong focus on balance and highlighting the fruit, this can be a very versatile wine on the table. This example hits all the right notes for me with a fragrant fruit basket of aromas on the nose and palate like strawberry cordial, candied raspberry, Anjou pear, lime curd and honeydew melon, all beautifully layered with and balanced by notes of lavender, chervil and mint. Off-dry, juicy, with persistent, crisp acidity that balances the sweetness, creates a sense of forward momentum and refreshes the palate. Jovial, characterful, balanced, delightfully yummy.

Pairs well with: Watermelon and feta salad with fresh mint. What is more refreshing on a blisteringly hot day that ice cold watermelon tossed with salty feta and fresh mint? A salty-sweet combo with the extra bit of vibrancy and herbal edge brought by the mint, this is where a fruity off-dry style of Cabernet Franc rosé shines.

Similar wines to try: As much as this pairing is off-the-charts delicious, I recognize that off-dry rosé might not be everyone’s thing. So if you’d prefer something a little drier, consider a Cabernet Franc traditional method fizz instead, like the De Chanceny NV Crémant de Loire Rosé Brut or the Louis de Grenelle NV Saumur Mousseux Brut “Corail.” Both of these examples see about 12 months on fine lees and have a respectable dosage of around 8-9g/L and would be a fine pairing for this dish.

Domaine de la Marinière, 2021 Chinon ‘La Marinière’ (12% abv, SRP $24USD): The Desbourdes family have been farming vines in the village of Panzoult since the 1960s, and today Boris Desbourdes is running the show and is a must follow for those on social media to get a glimpse into the day-to-day happenings as a vigneron. From parcels in the eastern part of Panzoult on the lower slopes with a strong influence of millarges (yellow limestone sands) and vinified in stainless steel with just a short maceration on skins. The 2021 vintage was a lighter, more “classic” Loire vintage, and in the glass, the wine leads with energy, sprightly acidity, and plenty of savoury, herbal and spicy undertones. Snappy wild fruits, cranberry and morello cherry mingle with rosemary, mint, and a big bouquet of wild flowers. The spicy palate delivers a mix of green and black peppercorns, with juicy acidity and soft, silky, well-managed tannins. Energetic, sauvage, light-bodied, easy-drinking, .

Pairs well with: Grilled lamb spiedini with tzatziki. In my opinion, lamb and Cabernet Franc are a match made in heaven. Lamb’s underlying gamey character marries well with Cabernet Franc’s own inherent savouriness. In the case of this preparation of lamb, the wine’s acidity cut through the richer shoulder meat used in the spiedini and also complemented the zippy tang of the tzatziki. A winning combo.

Similar wines to try: Other early-drinking examples from the 2021 vintage in the Loire could also work well. Wines that are in a similar vein would be the Château de Coulaine 2021 Chinon, Domaine du Bel Air 2021 Bourgueil “Jour de Soif,” Domaine de la Cotelleraie 2021 St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil' “Piguer Fou.”

Tűzkő Birtok, 2020 Cabernet Franc, Pannon, Hungary (13.5% abv, SRP $13USD). From one of Hungary’s oldest wineries, the Tűzkő estate is tucked up in the Tolna hills between the regions of Szekszárd and Tolna in the eastern part of the Pannon region in Southern Hungary. Because of the estate’s long history, compelling terroir and track record of high quality wines, the Antinori dynasty took the estate under its wing in 2000. I was extremely impressed by this Cabernet Franc, especially for the price point. It opened with a fresh, inviting nose, with the fruit and herbaceous profile nicely in balance. Working in harmony from start to finish, the dark and red fruits (cherry, black raspberry) mingled well with the notes of sturdy herbs, cedar, poblano pepper and tobacco throughout the palate experience. The fruits on the palate continued with a bit more of a cranberry undertone, punctuating the wines zippy, lively and persistent acidity. Medium-bodied, with fine, satiny tannins framing a juicy core of fruit, and oak and varietal spiciness, this is a charming wine. Honest, understated, well-intentioned, and crowd-pleasingly delicious.

Pairs well with: The ultimate mixed grill - a mix of sausages, skirt steak and chicken thighs grilled up alongside veggies like bell peppers, zucchini, eggplant, red onion, portobello mushrooms, all piled on a platter and served with a zippy, herby condiment. Cab Franc is the best wine for vegetables, and when the veggies are grilled, I find there to be a nice synergy with Cabernet Franc that has seen a bit of aging in barrel.

Similar wines to try: As this wine may be harder to find, I need to get a bit more creative with my alternatives, which is easier said than done. This wine leans in a little more of a “Bordelais style” of Cabernet Franc, respectful of the grape’s varietal character without being overly oaky. Consider reaching for something from South Africa, the Niagara Peninsula in Ontario, the Finger Lakes or Long Island like Raats Family Wines 2020 Cabernet Franc (Stellenbosch, South Africa), Southbrook Vineyards 2020 ‘Laundry Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc (Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara, Ontario), Heron Hill 2020 ‘Ingle Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes, NY), or Bedell Cellars 2022 Cabernet Franc (North Fork of Long Island, NY).

Durigutti, 2022 Cabernet Franc, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina (13.9% abv, $15USD): Brothers Hector and Pablo Durigutti are one of the pioneers of single varietal Cabernet Franc in Argentina. From vineyards in the sub-zones of Las Compuertas and Argelo in Luján de Cuyo, and fermented in concrete and aged in fourth-use 500L French oak barrels for 6 months, followed by 3 months in concrete tanks. This wine would be my perfect archetype for Argentine Cabernet Franc at an entry-level price point. The wine opens with a very Cab Franc-y nose that balances riper fruit, bold herbal undertones, and a robust spice profile. Sweet red and dark fruits reminiscent of Bing cherry, cassis, and black raspberry pâte de fruit. The plush fruit profile is beautifully ‘cut’ and balanced by a mix of herbal notes that have a pristine almost brisk character about them, like marjoram, oregano and other mountain herbs. The fruit and herbs are supported by notes of tobacco, sweet florals, liquorice, chilli flake and allspice. The acidity is bright, cleansing, and balancing; the tannins are ripe, round, velvety, and beautifully managed. Both the acidity and the tannin working in tandem to frame the weightier mouthfeel and fuller-bodied profile. Bold yet beautifully restrained, and honouring the grape’s character and finesse.

Pairs well with: Fall-of-the-bone, spice-rubbed baby back ribs. This is exactly the time of the year when I love to drink Argentinian Cabernet Franc. Rich, well-marbled proteins like pork back or spare ribs or beef brisket that have been seasoned with a base of paprika, cumin and other spices then cooked low and slow over the coals are a match made in heaven for the bolder, warmer climate energy of Argentine Franc.

Similar wines to try: Reach for examples from Argentina at entry-level price point, say $15-25USD. At these price points, I find the examples to have a balanced use of oak, often aged in older or larger oak, or even a neutral vessel like concrete, and this really lets Cabernet Franc’s character from high-altitude terroirs come through. Other examples to seek out are Fabre Montmayou 2022 Cabernet Franc Reserva (Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo), El Enemigo 2020 Cabernet Franc (Gualtallary, Uco Valley), Zuccardi Q 2021 Cabernet Franc (Paraje Altamira and San Pablo, Uco Valley).

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What have you been eating and drinking this summer? What is your favourite Cabernet Franc for the warmer weather and what would you pair it with? Let me know in the comments!