Wassmann, 2016 Cabernet Franc, Villány, Pannon, Hungary
Cab Franc du Jour #58
The Wassmann wine estate was established in 2002 by Ralf Wassmann and Susann Hanauer, both German natives. Their arrival in Villány was not accidental: the region has deep historical connections with Germany, dating to a large wave of German settlers who arrived in the mid-18th century, bringing with them the Portugieser grape, which became one of the most important historical varieties in the region. It was Ralf and Susann’s curiosity about that connection between Villány and Portugieser that first drew them here, and ultimately led them to settle and establish their winery. It is also worth noting that Wassmann was the first winery in Villány to receive organic certification, in 2003, followed by Demeter biodynamic certification in 2011.
Villány: Hungary’s Premier Red Wine Region
For most wine professionals and students, Hungary’s wine story begins and ends with Tokaji. Villány is as far from that world as the country gets: situated in the deep south of Hungary, approximately 345km southwest of Tokaji and only about 10km north of the Drava River, which marks the border with Croatia.
The region stretches 25km along the south-facing slopes of the Villány hills, with around 2,400 hectares under vine. The climate is continental with Mediterranean influences, and Villány receives more sunshine hours than any other region in Hungary, approximately 2,100 per year. That combination of sunshine and a long, warm growing season makes it the country’s premier red wine region.
The bedrock is composed of layered limestones and dolomite dating from the Triassic, Jurassic, and Cretaceous periods, overlaid with a topsoil of clay mixed with loess, the light, wind-derived sediment that can range from just a few metres to upwards of 20m in depth depending on the site.
Cabernet Franc in Villány: An Unexpected Signature Grape
Cabernet Franc has a long and meaningful history in Villány, rooted in the work of Zsigmond Teleki, the historically important rootstock breeder who developed the Berlandieri x Riparia rootstock in 1887, still widely used today for grafting vinifera on vigorous or calcareous soils. After phylloxera, Teleki established an experimental vineyard to test his grafting techniques, planting both native Hungarian varieties and international ones including Cabernet Franc. As a direct result of Teleki’s work, Villány was among the first Hungarian wine regions to be replanted after phylloxera, and Cabernet Franc has since become very well adapted to the region, today accounting for 15% of all vines planted.
The region has gone further still, establishing a dedicated appellation of origin for Cabernet Franc called Villányi Franc, created in 2014. To qualify, wines must be 100% Cabernet Franc, produced within a maximum yield of 35 hl/ha and meet specific aging requirements in both barrel and bottle.
In the Vineyard and in the Cellar
Today’s wine comes from a 0.4-hectare parcel in the single vineyard of Hidegkút in the village of Siklós, in one of the slightly cooler parts of Villány. The vineyard sits toward the top of the hill at around 225m above sea level, with approximately 2m of loess and clay topsoil over the limestone bedrock. The vines were planted in 2007.
The fruit is hand-picked and fully destemmed before fermenting in open-top wooden fermenters with indigenous yeast, with punchdowns during the active fermentation and a total skin contact of approximately 30 days. Aging takes place in a combination of Hungarian and French oak for around 20 months before bottling.
Wine Details
Producer: Weingut Wassmann
Region: Pannon
Wine District: Villány
Village: Siklós
Vineyard: Hidegkút
Soil: 2m of leoss/löss and clay, over a bedrock of limestone and dolostone
Alcohol: 14.0%