I’m usually hesitant to write about a winery’s inaugural release of a Cabernet Franc. It’s a difficult grape to get “right” - both in the vineyard and the winery. Even in the Loire Valley, with centuries of Cabernet Franc tradition behind it, vignerons won’t hesitate to tell you it takes a minimum of ten years working a specific parcel to truly understand how those grapes need to be handled to get the best possible wine from the site. There’s also no obvious “blueprint” for single-varietal Cabernet Franc outside the Loire - unlike, say, Pinot Noir or Cabernet Sauvignon.
That said, I’m always curious what inspires a winery to go on the Cabernet Franc journey, particularly in a region where it isn’t the “popular” or obvious choice. So when General Manager Nancy Morrow of Willamette Valley’s Björnson Vineyard reached out to see if I’d be interested in trying their first-ever Cabernet Franc bottling, I graciously accepted.
Cabernet Franc isn’t the first grape - or likely the tenth - we think of when we think of Oregon wine. This is Pinot Noir country, after all. But looking at the state’s growing conditions, and factoring in the effects of climate change, Cabernet Franc has seen a notable uptick in plantings in recent years. As of 2025, there are 388 acres (157 ha) planted in Oregon, up from 134 acres (54 ha) in 2010 - nearly a threefold increase in fifteen years. It’s also worth noting that Cabernet Franc was one of the few varieties in the state whose harvested acreage rose in 2025 versus 2024 - 332 acres versus 208, a nearly 60% increase - against a 12% decline in harvested acres overall.1
Like most Willamette Valley wineries, Björnson set out in 2005 to make world-class Pinot Noir from their estate vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills. But in the spirit of diversity and sustainability - foundational pillars for Mark and Pattie Björnson from the beginning - in 2021 they planted their 32-acre Pamar Vineyard in the windier Van Duzer Corridor AVA with a selection of experimental varieties they believed had potential to make compelling wine in that particular site. And while my knowledge of the Willamette Valley's sub-AVAs is limited, the persistent afternoon winds, which help create a longer, more even ripening period, coupled with the region's well-drained marine sediment soils suggest to me there is real potential for Cabernet Franc in this part of Oregon.
Asked about the decision to plant Cabernet Franc there, winemaker Scott Sabbadini noted that “Mark Björnson has looked to the Loire for inspiration when planting new varieties,” with small plantings of Melon de Bourgogne, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chenin Blanc planted alongside it. After mentioning the idea to plant Cabernet Franc to winery friends John Grochau of Grochau Cellars and Ben Casteel of Bethel Heights Vineyard, the Björnsons received an enthusiastic commitment to purchase fruit, which prompted them to plant 5.14 acres of Cabernet Franc opting to use clones 214, 327, and 623. The first harvest came in 2024, with each winery receiving an equal share of the fruit.
In the cellar, Scott’s primary objective was to first manage yield and canopy balance in the vineyard to “manage the pyrazines while maintaining Cabernet Franc’s varietal expression” and then approach the winemaking in a classical way. Each clone was fermented individually in open-top fermenters, with gentle extraction through a combination of pump-overs and punch-downs, followed by fifteen months aging in a mix of French and Hungarian oak, 35% new.
Tasting the 2024 Cabernet Franc (13.9% abv., $45USD, 220 cases produced), I was immediately taken by its complex aromatic profile - one of the qualities most beloved about this grape, and one of the hardest to achieve. Fresh and fragrant, the nose leads with red fruit (cran-raspberry juice, blood orange, morello cherry) beautifully layered with tarragon, micro basil, jasmine, and violet. So pretty. That same lift and energy carries through on the palate, joined by earth and spice undertones like fresh moss, mint, black and pink peppercorn, and allspice. Light in body but not lacking concentration, the wine’s vibrant, juicy acidity and finely-woven chalky tannins build an elegant structure with real momentum and character. Genuine, intentional, friendly, true.
Currently available in small quantities at the winery, with a larger wine club and online release slated for fall, this is a lovely first Cabernet Franc bottling for Björnson. The vines are still young, but if this wine is any indication, the estate has started its Cabernet Franc journey off on the right foot, and I’ll be keenly following along in the vintages ahead.
https://industry.oregonwine.org/resources/reports-studies/2025-oregon-vineyard-and-winery-report/
Such a cool crossover between a grape I am becoming more interested in and a region I have recently fallen in love with. Great writing as always.
Great article! Interesting to see a strong Pinot Noir region take a stab at Cab Franc and be good is intriguing.