Stratus Vineyards: Current Cabernet Franc Releases

No.71 | Producer Feature

Cabernet Franc is Ontario’s second most planted red variety and nearly every winery (save for specialists of the Burgundian varieties) produce at least one example of single varietal Cabernet Franc as well as use it in blends. However, there are not many wineries in the province I would call Cabernet Franc “houses,” that is to say they put a greater emphasis on the variety with multiple expressions and styles in their range of wines. Enter Stratus Vineyards, who has made Cabernet Franc a focal point in a diverse range of wines with a current offering of five reds and one rosé made from the grape.

Established in 2000, Stratus Vineyards ushered in a new era of grape growing and winemaking in Ontario producing super premium wines with a strong focus on innovation and sustainability. Leaning on the European tradition of assemblage, founding winemaker and Loire-native J-L Groux anchored the Stratus portfolio of wines with their flagship Stratus Red and Stratus White, which are ever-changing blends crafted from the diverse palette of ten red grapes and six white planted at the estate. While the winery does have a few more unusual varieties (for Ontario) planted, like Tempranillo, Sangiovese and Tannat, about 18 of their 55 acres (a third!) are planted with Cabernet Franc.

Since the beginning, the winemaking philosophy for Stratus’s red wines has reflected the classic, Bordelais approach with a focus on extended macerations and longer aging in French oak barriques (225L and 228L) with a higher percentage of new oak. With J-L now semi-retired and winemaker Dean Stoyka at the helm since 2022, Dean has begun to introduce some new techniques and vessels (including amphorae, concrete eggs, 500L demi-muids, and a few larger Stockinger foudres) into the mix to creatively expand the Stratus offering, which I think has only benefited their work with Cabernet Franc.

At the core of their philosophy with respect to Cabernet Franc is meticulous work in the vineyard, including rigorous leaf removal and canopy management to ensure maximum sun exposure to help with ripening, and also green harvesting when necessary to balance yields. Stratus also prefers to give their Cabernet Franc very long hang-time, typically waiting to harvest until after the first frost well into November making them often one of the last wineries in the region to start harvesting their reds. The result is a range of Cabernet Francs that maximize ripeness and concentration, while still remaining true to the grape’s identity and feeling (to me, at least) unmistakably “Niagara” in the glass. “Powerful yet elegant” is how Dean described Cabernet Franc for him as we concluded our tasting, and I think that perfectly articulates the estate’s range of Cabernet Francs. Generous and gregarious, the Stratus Cabernet Francs showcase polished, modern styling with impressive depth and concentration that will reward with cellaring.

2024 Cabernet Franc Rosé, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake (12.5% abv., $32CAD): Consistently one of my favourite Cabernet Franc rosés being made in the Niagara Peninsula, the 2024 from Stratus takes a slightly different approach in the cellar than previous vintages using two different techniques: 50% rosé by saignée and 50% direct press. The resulting wine might be my favourite iteration of the Stratus Rosé to date. Fresh and refreshing, with a savoury and salty mid-palate that continues through the finish. Layered with notes of lavender, tarragon and thyme, the wine is fleshy and “gourmand,” that is to say it is a very gastronomic style of rosé that has just the right amount of structure to take it beyond being a quaffable, patio sipper to something that would work well on the table. Serious stuff.

2022 Cabernet Franc, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake (14.3% abv., $49CAD): The Stratus “Black Label” range of red wines leans on the traditional Bordeaux-inspired styling that J-L Groux became known for when Stratus marched onto the scene in 2000. Since Dean has taken over in the cellar, the proportion of new oak, particularly in the Cabernet Franc, has decreased significantly, and the 2022 only sees 7% new oak during its 553 days of oak élevage. Ripe and plush with a mix of black raspberry and red cherry fruit, with notes of mint, violets, tobacco and peppery spice. Concentrated with fine, firm, velvety tannins, and a long refreshing finish. Pure, with superb depth and balance. Classic and classy. Like so many of Stratus’s reds, this is a wine that will age gracefully, but the generosity of fruit and restrained structure provides pleasure in the short term.

2022 Cabernet Franc “Escarpment,” VQA Niagara Escarpment (14.1% abv., Licensee only): While only available to licensees (ie. restaurants, bottle shops), this was a fascinating wine to taste in this line-up and I’m so pleased Dean included it in the tasting. Sourced from the Wismer Vineyard on the Niagara Escarpment, this wine was essentially made the exact same way as the classic Stratus “Black Label” allowing the “terroir” to be on full display - and the two 2022s couldn’t be more different. The “Escarpment” Cabernet Franc leads with bright, ripe red fruit, soft sage, dusty herbs, and floral notes of rose and peony. Succulent fruit envelops fine, linen-like tannins, and it displays the hallmark concentration and depth of all the Stratus Cabernet Francs, but with a bit more of that verticality, focus and tension that I often find in “Bench” Cabernet Francs. Not only did this stand out in the line-up as almost being a bit Loire-esque but with more weight and ripeness, but it also helped emphasize the strength of Status’s own vineyard “signature” for Cabernet Franc and the strong through-line across the rest of the wines in the tasting regardless of the vintage or approach to winemaking.

2022 White Label Cabernet Franc Amphora, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake (14.1% abv., $65CAD): The first vintage of the new “White Label” came to be with the 2020 vintage and this range represents excellence in viticulture and winemaking at Stratus. Only produced in the best vintages, the parcel destined for the White Label Cabernet Franc bottling will change depending on the vintage conditions and is selected for quality at the time of harvest. In the cellar, Dean has chosen amphorae as his preferred aging vessel for this Cabernet Franc in order to highlight the purity of fruit and expression of place. Showing the winery’s signature bolder, riper fruit profile, the 2022 White Label displays a sultry, pure, dark fruited profile of crême de cassis and black raspberry pâté aux fruits layered with notes of dried oregano, rose potpourri, sandalwood, delicate spices and a touch of wet stone minerality. Sumptuously textured with tightly woven, cashmere-like tannins, the plush, voluminous palate is balanced by cleansing acidity and a firm, focused finish.

2024 “Trials” Cabernet Franc Zero-Zero, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake (14.5% abv., $55CAD): The exceptional 2020 vintage also marked the debut of Stratus’s “Trials” range of wines, which are small batch experiments following the “zero-zero” philosophy of no additions, no added sulphites, and no filtration. The 2024 “Trials” Cabernet Franc was aged briefly (90 days) in neutral French oak. Perfumed and a touch exotic on the nose and palate, with a mélange of ripe, red and dark fruits like confit red cherries and black raspberry coulis, layered herbals and florals of sage, jasmine and lavender, mixing with notes of fennel seed, star anise, and pink peppercorn. Round, a touch creamy, and richly textured, while also having an unmistakeable low-fi energy and verve. Vibrant, avant garde and impeccably crafted, this wine feels akin to the “classic” Stratus Cabernet Franc, while being more youthful, unadorned, and, for lack of a better word, “hip.” A Stratus Cabernet Franc for a new generation of wine drinker.

2020 Cabernet Franc “Decant”, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake (14.9% abv., $145CAD): Only produced in excellent vintages, Stratus began to bottle their Cabernet Franc “Decant” in 2014 - a wine that represents the pinnacle of the estate’s work with the variety. It is a barrel selection that sees longer aging (614 days) in French oak with a larger proportion of new wood (40%). The wine is then bottled in a one-of-a-kind custom bottle that is not only eye-catching but was designed to catch sediment as the wine is poured. Concentrated and densely packed with notes of blackcurrant and plum, mixing with evergreen sous-bois, fragrant twiggy herbs like rosemary, and rounded out by elegantly integrated oak and varietal spice (star anise, clove). Rich and enveloping on the palate, its cleansing acidity balances the wine’s opulent and luxe mouthfeel, while firm, fine, meaty tannins give the wine excellent structure helping to frame the fruit beautifully and setting it up to age well over the long term. Interestingly, it reminded me of some recent vintages of Couly-Dutheil’s Clos de l’Echo! This is an impressive wine that marries power, concentration and elegance. Best after 2030 and shared with Right Bank Bordeaux-loving wine enthusiasts.