Tasting Diaries: October 2025

No.67 | What's In My Glass

Before I share some of the deliciousness that has graced my glass this month, I wanted to highlight a milestone for Substack readers, just in case you don’t follow me on Instagram. Last Saturday, October 25th, I did an Instagram Live to acknowledge the five year anniversary of recording my first “Cab Franc du Jour” tasting video. Back in October 2020, I got the courage to finally launch this project after sitting on the idea for nearly a decade. As someone who as always struggled with writing (and still does to this day), video allowed me to “get out of my own way” and share my passion for Cabernet Franc in a way that felt informative but also a bit more relaxed. So, this video, and the dozen or so I recorded in the month leading up to launching my Instagram on December 4th, 2020, served as the basis of Cab Franc Chronicles and laid the ground work for the nearly 170 more videos that have since followed. Over time, the videos were supplemented by written posts on Instagram, and eventually I launched this Substack in January 2024.

This journey, this nerdy, deep dive down the rabbit hole of Cabernet Franc, has been more incredible than I could’ve ever imagined. And I feel like I’ve barely scratched the surface. I have been reflecting a lot in recent months on all of this, and I will be retooling how I approach my videos to make them more digestible and hopefully useful for wine enthusiasts and professionals alike. The classic Cab Franc du Jour videos will continue, and I have plans to introduce some other forms of video content in the near future as well.

All of this is to say that five years in there is lots to look forward to. And I continue to be deeply grateful to everyone out there. Wherever you are, through whatever medium you choose to support this journey, thank you from the bottom of my heart.

Now, without further ado…

---

If Cabernet Franc had a season, it would unquestionably be fall.

So much that I associate with this season has parallels to this glorious grape variety. My tasting notes often overflow with earthy, savoury descriptors like wet or dried autumn leaves, sous bois, fresh churned earth, woodsy notes of cedar and cigar box, petrichor, mushroom, herbs like thyme, rosemary, and sage, and, of course, all of those warming spices that have become synonymous with pumpkin pie like clove, nutmeg, dried ginger, cinnamon, and allspice. Structurally, Cabernet Franc often delivers just the right amount of weight and body that brings comfort as the weather gets cool, but on those crisp, sunnier days, it doesn’t ever feel too heavy. Then there’s all those fall foods! I’m thinking all the delicious gourds, brassicas, and root vegetables like squash, sweet potato, Brussels sprouts, parsnip, carrots, beets, celery root, turnips and more. Plus, as the weather cools and we retreat inside, long simmering braises and soups and heartier roasts find their way to our tables - all of which can be a perfect pairing for Cabernet Franc. Of course, it goes without saying, there is no more perfect Thanksgiving wine than Cabernet Franc! Finally, there is the emotional side to the season. There is a certain sensitivity to Cabernet Franc that seems to resonate with the often somber, more melancholy, reflective mood that goes along with fall as we creep closer to the end of the year and we watch nature begin its slow transition from the vitality of summer to its quiet, hibernation of the months to come.

For the Cabernet Franc lovers out there, you know your mission! But, for the Cab Franc skeptics (it’s cool… I see you) who might be reading this, if there was any moment to courageously dip your toe into the beautiful universe of Cabernet Franc, it would be now. So, put on your favourite fuzzy sweater, queue up a folky, cozy playlist on Spotify, get a simple roast chicken (or mushroom risotto) going, lean in your sensitive size, and curl up with a bottle of Cabernet Franc.

Need a little inspiration? Here are some wines I’ve enjoyed in recent weeks.

Bloomer Creek, 2016 Cabernet Franc, Finger Lakes (Seneca Lake), New York, USA (12.4% abv., SRP $35USD): My first introduction to Finger Lakes Cabernet Franc was a bottle of Bloomer Creek that I enjoyed back in 2016. What struck me about it was how much it felt similar to my favourite Cabernet Francs from the Niagara Peninsula, without even realizing how similar the climate and soils are between the two regions. The 2016 vintage was one of those banner vintages for the red Bordeaux varieties in the Finger Lakes that (used to!) happen a couple times a decade. With nearly ten years of aging under its belt, it displayed complex tertiary aromas of dried cherry, dried autumn leaves, foresty undertones, and leather. Very herbal (rosemary, mint jelly, oregano oil) with hints of kirsch and cassis, the tannins were ripe and plush, while the acidity was soft, but persistent. Traditionally styled, a touch sauvage, with just the right amount of refined rusticity. If I had another bottle, I’d pair it with rack of lamb and rosemary scented roast potatoes.

Vineland Estates, 2022 Elevation Cabernet, VQA Niagara Escarpment, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (13.5% abv., $24.70CAD): I profiled this wine back in April as part of a feature on Cabernet Franc from Ontario, but it merits mentioning again because it is just so damn delicious! It is predominantly Cabernet Franc (Brian Schmidt tells me its about 98% franc) from the estate’s Bo-Teek vineyard and it’s aged briefly in neutral oak. Perfectly balancing fruit-forwardness with earth and spice, it is plush, with enveloping, seamless tannins that gentle hug the tongue like your favourite cozy blanket keeps you snuggly on a cold day. Well-structured, while also brimming with ease and approachability, you’d be hard-pressed to find a better Cabernet Franc from Ontario at this price point that delivers this much depth, charm and companionability. This was the (Canadian!) wine of choice for my family’s Thanksgiving table earlier this month, and it was a match made in heaven.

Domaine des Roches Neuves (Thierry Germain), 2019 Saumur-Champigny ‘Clos de l’Echelier’ (13.5% abv., SRP $60USD): Representing the top tier (along with Les Mémoires) of the domaine’s range of reds, Clos de l’Echelier - the place - is defined by very shallow, lighter textured soils and a more pronounced influence of the tuffeau chalk bedrock. Translation? This is an energetic, structured, vertical expression of Cabernet Franc. With a lifted, fragrant nose defined by raspberry and red currant fruit, medicinal herbal notes of anise and rosemary, spicy florals (peony) and an underlying aroma of white button mushrooms. Vivacious acidity, fine chalky tannins, the wine’s corseted structure marries beautifully with its graceful, ethereal, almost lacy aromatics. This will continue to improve with more time in the cellar, but it is entering a good drinking window now. If you have this in your cellar, decant for a few hours (if possible), and consider pairing with seared duck breast and a wild rice and mushroom pilaf.

Bernard Baudry, 2023 Chinon ‘Les Granges’ (12% abv., SRP $24USD): At this point in this journey, I feel like Domaine Bernard Baudry no longer requires an introduction! I have featured a number of their cuvées as part of my in-depth tasting videos and also in Substack posts. But as a refresher, their Les Granges is one of three reds in their range that are from alluvial soils (the others being Le Domaine and Les Grézeaux). This would be considered by many to be an “early-drinking” style of Chinon intended to be drunk young, but if you check out Keith Akers’s very timely article on this cuvée, it can age surprisingly well! I adore this 2023 Les Granges with its savoury, earthy fruit profile with notes of thyme, fresh churned soil, and cedar leaves coupled with raspberry and blueberry undertones. Pure, bright, youthful, with a yin-yang spice profile of clove that grounds the wine, with pepper and chilli flake that provide lift. Cleansing acidity and silky tannins combine to create a fluid, quenchable, easy-going wine with lots of character. Fall in a glass! While tasting this it had me craving classic bangers and mash with a side of braised red cabbage.

Le Monde, 2021 Cabernet Franc, DOC Friuli, Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, Italy (13% abv., SRP $20USD): About 23% of Italy’s 5500 hectares of Cabernet Franc is planted in Friuli. And you would think that with that many hectares we would see more single varietal examples in the export markets, but I find them difficult to track down. Le Monde is a world class estate, so I was delighted when my friend Melissa Winkler of Winkler & Samuels Wine & Spirits in Buffalo brought this along for us to enjoy at lunch earlier this week. From a more “classic” vintage, the wine was brimming with plenty of life, vitality and energy. Juicy acidity carried the sweet-savoury tart red and black fruits, accompanied by fragrant herbs (basil, tarragon) and plenty of pepperiness to give it a bit of zip. The palate was soft and silky with nicely managed tannins, medium bodied with a lunch-friendly ABV, it was super approachable, with just the right amount of structure and palate-cleansing freshness. Pair with creamy tomato and roasted red pepper soup with an oozy grilled cheese.

Domaine de la Cotelleraie, 2018 St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil ‘Le Vau Jaumier’ (12.5% abv., SRP 15-17EUR): We don’t often talk about the slopes in St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, which is for good reason seeing as though they only account for 25% of the appellation’s terroir, the balance being sandy-gravelly alluvial soils. But there are some grand lieux-dits tucked up in the northern end of the appellation, one of which being Le Vau Jaumier, thanks to its prime southern exposure and silty-clay soils over the Middle Turonian tuffeau. From one of the warmest vintages in the last decade, this wine displayed beautiful restraint and poise out of the gate. With notes of dark fruit (black raspberry, black currant and fresh mission fig), purple and pink florals, coupled with notes of mint and marjoram and delicately spiced undertones (star anise, cardamom), the wine has plenty of depth, purity of fruit, and layered complexity. Soft mouth-watering acidity weaves with velvety ripe tannins, it was succulent, voluminous, enveloping, while showing superb drinkability and freshness. With added notes of cocoa, graphite and cedar wood, this wine packs a remarkable amount of complexity in its petit 12.5% alcohol frame. Superb. This has enough going on structurally that I think it would stand up nicely to a hearty braise such as a beef cheek daube or navarin of lamb.